Final shopping list. With pictures.

I think it looks alright I don't see why you'll need these: If you already have the cellog.
e. 6x Battery Monitor 2-6S

You can just check them with the cellog one pack at a time every once in awhile. It's pretty easy and I do it with my 10 6s packs on ocassion. You can plug the cellog into one pack and that'll give you a good idea of how the others are doing, if you want to check it when you're riding. Mine have stayed in sync.

I agree with the others that you should get a different charger maybe an iCharger and powersupply. That way you can charge it in an hour or two. You can also set it to 4.1 volt max to extend your battery life. (my other cheepo one doesn't)
http://epbuddy.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17_20&products_id=169

I would really try to decide on your configuration and get a SP wiring setup like icecube57 does. You can also build it yourself. Maybe decide what your configuration (12s, 16s, 20s, etc) will be after you try it out. When you're hooking up and breaking down the pack for charging be extra carefull as that's when you'll cross/mixup wires without a good series parallel plug and play setup.
 
999zip999 said:
Wesnewell how much do you have in chargers, power supply, monitors, wires, connectors and batteries? For a setup ?
I paid $179 for the Hyperion 1420i about 19 months ago. You can get it now for a lot less.
Used 24V 600W power supply I lucked out on. $21 shipped.
1 to 6 charge and balance cables, under $20
Battery= 12 5ah 4s hard case packs at ~$22 each. Maybe $300 with optional wiring to parallel balance plugs as 24s2p.

Note: I bought the charger and power supply before I bought my first battery. Money isn't really an object for me so I bought what I consider one of the best around and bought it specifically to charge a 14s pack. I now charge my 24s pack as 12 paralleled 4s packs. A high wattage 6s charger would do just as good a job for about half the cost.
 
wesnewell said:
999zip999 said:
Wesnewell how much do you have in chargers, power supply, monitors, wires, connectors and batteries? For a setup ?
I paid $179 for the Hyperion 1420i about 19 months ago. You can get it now for a lot less.
Used 24V 600W power supply I lucked out on. $21 shipped.
1 to 6 charge and balance cables, under $20
Battery= 12 5ah 4s hard case packs at ~$22 each. Maybe $300 with optional wiring to parallel balance plugs as 24s2p.

Did you do the wiring for the batteries yourself? I can't find any series of parallel connectors other than the 14awg from hobbyking. With those connectors it would be a lot easier. But most people say I need at least 12awg wire. It won't be a big problem or anything, a friend of mine has a lot of experience with electronics. But yeah I prefer the pre-made ones..
 
zjhost said:
Did you do the wiring for the batteries yourself? I can't find any series of parallel connectors other than the 14awg from hobbyking. With those connectors it would be a lot easier. But most people say I need at least 12awg wire. It won't be a big problem or anything, a friend of mine has a lot of experience with electronics. But yeah I prefer the pre-made ones..
There is no wiring needed for the battery itself. Just break the connectors that come on the packs and plug them in in series leaving a positive red at one end and a negative black at the other. The kit you buy should have a cable from the controller to the battery pack. I highly suggest you use a spark prevention circuit in between. Here's my old 18s2p setup. I think it's clear enough to make out how the wire 6 packs as 12s2p. Click to enlarge.b4.JPG
 
RyanTo said:
I think it looks alright I don't see why you'll need these: If you already have the cellog.
e. 6x Battery Monitor 2-6S

You can just check them with the cellog one pack at a time every once in awhile. It's pretty easy and I do it with my 10 6s packs on ocassion. You can plug the cellog into one pack and that'll give you a good idea of how the others are doing, if you want to check it when you're riding. Mine have stayed in sync.

Yes you're right I will do that.
RyanTo said:
I agree with the others that you should get a different charger maybe an iCharger and powersupply. That way you can charge it in an hour or two. You can also set it to 4.1 volt max to extend your battery life. (my other cheepo one doesn't)
http://epbuddy.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17_20&products_id=169

I would really try to decide on your configuration and get a SP wiring setup like iceman does. You can also build it yourself. Maybe decide what your configuration (12s, 16s, 20s, etc) will be after you try it out. When you're hooking up and breaking down the pack for charging be extra carefull as that's when you'll cross/mixup wires without a good series parallel plug and play setup.

Yeah I am still looking for a charger. I kinda like the that Icharger since it has got the whole package, It is available at hobbyking too but I don't know what powersuply to choose.
I will make a wiring schedule soon. Thanks for the tip.
 
This looks really good and epbuddy is out of them.
http://www.valuehobby.com/power-systems/chargers/gt-power-b620.html
 
An I charger is a good choice too. They match up well with a poplular power supply. Meanwell switching power supply. Get the one that matches your chargers input voltage.

I took a different approach myself, and matched a 350w meanwell with two cheap 150w chargers. Still cost me about $200. Fast enough to charge an 8 piece lipo pack in about 1-2 hrs depending on how deep I discharge em. That way I can charge em up while I'm around to put out a fire should it happen, ( more like heave the fire out into the yard with a shovel) and then go ride more or go to sleep.

When I do need to balance, I can do it twice as fast as one 300w charger. But balancing is pretty seldom once you get a good set of packs put together with no weak cells in any of them. Takes buying some extras and weeding out the bad ones.
 
Ok so I am changing my mind again here I got the Turnigy charger : http://bit.ly/QB1QTN
with this power suply: http://bit.ly/PCJnRT
I am not trying to cheap out, Just wondering if it would be a good fit. They're all turnigy so it should be fine, i think.
 
Charger looks good, but not sure if you can get max amps from the charger with that 16A PS. You'll be charging 4s, so you'll only get about 240W out of the charger with that setup. Still should charge 6 4s packs in ~2 hours.
 
You could use that power supply with the charger, but you'd have to be carefull to select a charge amps setting below 220w. If you try to run 300w charge out of the 220w ps, it will cook the ps. So with that charger you'd want to get a more powerfull ps. Also be sure your charger input voltage matches your ps output voltage. The bigger chargers run on 24v.

Meanwell 350w and a 300w I charger remains a good matched setup, Even though you don't live in the USA, you can look at EP Buddy to see how they match em up in thier charger and powersupply kits.
 
If you've got an old PC psu laying around with a high amp 12v rail, you could use it. However you need to load it to get the max amp out of it. WAG, would be you'd want at least 40A on the 12V rail.
 
I would be more than happy if I could charge the batteries in +-2 hours. And I will only be using it for the lipo's so I only need one option, and the charger has data storage if I set it right, no more than 12v 220w 16A max. only one option. Again I'm not trying to cheap out, I just think it would work fine because they're all the same brand, and I don't have the knowledge to modify these chargers and ps.

Anyway I am selling my moped and it should bring me at least 900 euro so then I want to go buy the parts.

O yea and I just found out that the prokit901 doesn't allow disc brakes, I work at a CNC machine factory so that shouldn't be a problem.

And also I have a 9 speed cassette, so I'm just gonna remove sprockets until it fits in the hub, I won't use the rear derailler anyway.
 
Are you looking at the rear wheel prokit 901? If so, I was able to fit my mechanical disc brake by inserting a spacer between the disc and motor to give the caliper enough space (so it didn't touch the motor).
 
Punx0r said:
Are you looking at the rear wheel prokit 901? If so, I was able to fit my mechanical disc brake by inserting a spacer between the disc and motor to give the caliper enough space (so it didn't touch the motor).
Yes the rear wheel. Does the prokit 901 has premade holes for a disc brake, there weren't any on the 3d drawing. I am using a hydrolic disc brake caliper. But if it doesn't fit I will use a spacer to get more space, and maybe even convert to a 1 speed sprocket in the back to get more space (if necessary)
 
You can buy the disc brake adapter for rear wheel. I posted a link to some time back. Try goldenmotor.com or conhismotor.com.
 
Yes, the motor has a male thread that took the disc adapter from my original rear wheel. I put a ~3mm spacer between this and the motor, then used washers between the caliper and bike frame to correctly position the caliper on the disc.

My freewheel was only 6 speed, so fitted fairly easily.
 
Punx0r said:
Yes, the motor has a male thread that took the disc adapter from my original rear wheel. I put a ~3mm spacer between this and the motor, then used washers between the caliper and bike frame to correctly position the caliper on the disc.

My freewheel was only 6 speed, so fitted fairly easily.

I'll email my supplier to make sure that the prokit 901 has disc brake holes. Maybe the 3d drawing was just inaccurate or old.

I got a 9 speed cassette so I will have to remove some sprockets.
 
There are no holes, just a large thread. If you look at the User Guide here:

http://www.devi-motion.com/pro-kit-901-48v-1000w-front

You will see how the disc fits.

The disc adapter (with six holes) was not included in my kit - I used the one from my old wheel.
 
Now I see it, I've looked at it before but adobe only allowed me to watch half the document "Problem reading the document (14)" So I got it of the GM forum.
So the disc brake should work out fine. Thanks
 
Your 9 speed cassete will not fit the motor. You will need a 5 -7 speed screw on freewheel.

You can use a high power charger with a lower power power suppy. Just don't pull more than the rating of the power supply. Adjust the charger by setting the amps it charges at low enough. Later on, as funds are more avaliable, you could get a more powerful power suppy to charge even faster.
 
dogman said:
Your 9 speed cassete will not fit the motor. You will need a 5 -7 speed screw on freewheel.

You can use a high power charger with a lower power power suppy. Just don't pull more than the rating of the power supply. Adjust the charger by setting the amps it charges at low enough. Later on, as funds are more avaliable, you could get a more powerful power suppy to charge even faster.

My plan was to convert the 9 speed cassette to a single speed cassette , but keep the front derailler (also keep the rear derailler for tention on the chain, just not using to shift). That way I will have a 3 speed bike. I won't need 27 gears anyway. Tomorrow I will check with my local bike shop if this is even possible.

Or my other plan was to cut of 3 sprockets so it would fit. Then don't use the gears to avoid trouble.
 
Most rear wheel kits come with a 5-7 speed freewheel. Just use it.
 
wesnewell said:
Most rear wheel kits come with a 5-7 speed freewheel. Just use it.

That was my first idea too, however I asked if it was possible on yahoo answers, and they said a 6 speed cassette isn't made for a 9 speed chain. I am going to try it anyway. It won't hurt.
 
Hobbyking doesn't ship anything with lipo's above 4kg. So I want to buy the batteries from euro warehouse. But the same battery cost $22 at global warehouse and $36 dollar at euro warehouse. How is this even possible? They have a UK warehouse, same battery $25. Tax is the same for UK and Germany. Global shipping is $74 and Germany-Netherlands shipping is $10.
Support center didn't understand what I was saying.
 
Back
Top