First Ebike Build (i failed terribly) Sabvoton Qsmotor Ebike

[Lewdsome]

First off, you can skip the first paragraph of backstory and go straight into the technical stuff if you desire. i started over a year ago with a 3000w Qs motor fat bike wheel and went on my quest to build an ebike from there ater deciding a commercialy available ebike was either too underpowered (500w) or too expensive online. i way overesitmated the price i would have to pay to make it a reality but i still did it. i followed online recommandations and set on making a quality ebike. i initially got a 72v 25ah battery. then got a sabvoton 72150 controller and a TFT H6 display as recommended by the QSmotor represantant i was in contact with. after receiving the parts, i was exited to finally build it but i was too careless and connected something i shouldnt have and blew the controller, the display and the throttle, i plugged a 72v cable in what was supposed to be a 5v cable. i got someone to fix the controller but in case it was still broken i bought a new one to be safe, a sabvoton 72200. after some proper careful testing, this time, the motor finally turned (once) before i knew about the fact i had to program the controller, i turned the new throttle i bought for testing and the wheel snapped off the cheap frame of the fat bike i had bought, even though it was on a rack. it teared the power cord inside the wheel. i tried to fix the wheel partially but one of the hall phase seemed scuffed so i instead bought another wheel that was instead made for a regular bike frame size. i now have a QS205 3T 3000W motor. since then, i always have a 30H error on the display, no matter the motor, or the controller i use.

Now, the actual problem i have right now: I get a 30H communication error on both my TFT H6 display and UKC1 display a few seconds after turning on the display. it wont respond to any input and the led does not blink on the controller. i have the displays (once at a time) connected to a Sabvoton 72200 that is new. the Sabvoton is connected to a QS205 3T 3000W motor that is new too. I have a 0-5v throttle connected and a e-brake. Both tested and working. I lost the USB dongle for bluetooth with the sabvoton, but i have installed the program to configure it on the computer and also added the port driver required for it to work, a green led lights up on the controller when i conenct it but my compter still won't detect the controller even when the 3 pin connector for the display bypass settings is unplugged. my battery is charged, but the XT-90s connector of my battery has a blown resistor i think, it sparks every time in plug it in and the + pin get burnt black on the tip.

I dont know what else to do, i feel like i tried everything and i'm getting tired of having about two thousand dollars of parts that i cant resell just lying around my house. please help me, i've searched in any blogs and post i could find online and now, i'm here hoping someone might read this be able to help me find the cause of my problem...
My regards, Lewdsome

 

[fill]

Yikes.. I hear the pain.
#1 Replace the damaged antispark? xt90 connector to the battery And consider a simple battery isolation switch.
#2 Are you sure all connectors are pushed fully home? (yeah. but if not checked...)

When the motor broke free did it perhaps pull in the controller connection and perhaps damage its connection or integrity? could you continuity test each logic level wire from the connector to the controller pcb as the weaker wires would be most susceptible?

google suggests the 30h error indicates coms issues between controller and display?? did that connection wire experience damage/trauma? checking logic level connections between controller pcb and the display connector would also seem practical too?

Not an expert just a dabbler and thats my take hope its helpful..

 

[E-HP]

Did you buy the displays from QS?

 

[offGridDownUnder]

Learning a lot is not a failure. The hard way may be the only way, but the gains are real (just not what I wanted today).

 

[Lewdsome]

Yikes.. I hear the pain.
#1 Replace the damaged antispark? xt90 connector to the battery And consider a simple battery isolation switch.
#2 Are you sure all connectors are pushed fully home? (yeah. but if not checked...)

When the motor broke free did it perhaps pull in the controller connection and perhaps damage its connection or integrity? could you continuity test each logic level wire from the connector to the controller pcb as the weaker wires would be most susceptible?

google suggests the 30h error indicates coms issues between controller and display?? did that connection wire experience damage/trauma? checking logic level connections between controller pcb and the display connector would also seem practical too?

Not an expert just a dabbler and thats my take hope its helpful..

thank you for the help ill check tonight possibly to test some of those but i can assure the 72200 is still intact, maybe not the 72150
ill try to replace the antispark but it was weldered in place solid

 

[Lewdsome]

Did you buy the displays from QS?

thats a good point i cant remember if i really did buy the replacement from qsmotor maybe their display are specially encoded

 

[Lewdsome]

Learning a lot is not a failure. The hard way may be the only way, but the gains are real (just not what I wanted today).

yup i just lost too much money failing.. haha

 

[E-HP]

thats a good point i cant remember if i really did buy the replacement from qsmotor maybe their display are specially encoded

Since the issue is cropping up with two different displays, then I’d recheck or test continuity of the green and yellow conductors from the display to controller. Check the pins on the connectors to make sure there’s good contact and nothing is loose or backing out on the controller side.
You may find other posts on the forum by using the search tool. More often than not, communications errors are either compatibility related or bad continuity.
As far as compatibility goes, looks like the display should work if you have the H series of the controller. Other models may look like they have a display connector, but maybe setup for use with Grins Cycle Analyst.

 

[OCD Garage]

In my experience, controllers like the Sabvoton, Kelly and others are more "plug and play around" than plug and play. You could buy a non-adjustable sine wave controller like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...order_list.order_list_main.175.734a1802EtMeBh for less than $100 shipped, which gives great performance, is smooth and easy to connect. Once wired in, you're ready to ride in a few minutes, lots of power at 60amps. I've used them with great success. Just a thought.

 

[fill]

I lost the USB dongle for bluetooth with the sabvoton, but i have installed the program to configure it on the computer and also added the port driver required for it to work, a green led lights up on the controller when i conenct it but my compter still won't detect the controller even when the 3 pin connector for the display bypass settings is unplugged.

might need sorting before you can "plug and play around" do you have the correct usb interface? seems a couple of flavours exist..

 

[Lewdsome]

In my experience, controllers like the Sabvoton, Kelly and others are more "plug and play around" than plug and play. You could buy a non-adjustable sine wave controller like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...order_list.order_list_main.175.734a1802EtMeBh for less than $100 shipped, which gives great performance, is smooth and easy to connect. Once wired in, you're ready to ride in a few minutes, lots of power at 60amps. I've used them with great success. Just a thought.

i actually have one just like that too... but i didnt know how to configure it and it makes a grinding noise when i tried it with the last wheel... i dont know where to configure what probably is the hall angle on it...