ford think bike

[bigbuckaroo47]

I have a Ford "Think Bike". It had a 24v 12amp setup (two 12V/12Amp batteries). I purchased a 24V/15Amp Lifepo4 battery for it. I know the battery is ok as I have been using it on another e bike that does not have the pedal assist like the Think bike. The Lifepo4 battery has been put into the think bike battery case and wired correctly (I think). However, when I turn on the Think bike I just get a flashing (trouble/error?) light on the battery state of charge indicator. Nothing else happens. No power to the motor. If I use the old SLA batteries the bike works fine. Anyone have an idea how to remedy? Is the problem that I am using one 24V battery instead of two 12v batteries or possibly the change from SLA to the Lifepo4? Any help is greatly appreciated. Scott

 

[amberwolf]

What is the actual output voltage of the new battery, vs the actual voltage of the original? It is possible that "hot off the charger" the new one is too high for the controller and it is protecting itself.

 

[bigbuckaroo47]

I have tried the new battery after it has been used on my other bike. After use the voltage was 26.2. The SLA battery pack voltage was higher. It does not seem to be a voltage issue. Thanks for the input.

 

[amberwolf]

Is the problem that I am using one 24V battery instead of two 12v batteries or possibly the change from SLA to the Lifepo4?

I can't think of any change from SLA to LFP that would cause it other than voltage, since it's not a high-current bike, except possibly if the controller has such large caps that it is triggering the BMS of the LFP pack to cut off the pack when it's plugged in due to overcurrent (assuming the LFP pack has such protection in it).

This can be tested by connecting first just the negative pack lead, then using oh, say a 10Kohm resistor with a test clip on each end, to short across the positive battery to positive bike lead, wait about 30 seconds to a minute, then connect the positives together. If it was a current inrush causing the BMS to lock out power then this will prevent that. If it works you can wire that resistor into a switch that connects across the pack positive to bike positive, and just do this every time you have to disconnect it.

(this is assuming that any "power switch" or key on the bike is already turned to "on" when you do the test).

Unless the two 12V SLAs had an interconnect tap from the bike at the point between the batteries, it would make zero difference to it whether there are two 12V or one 24V battery. If it does have such an in-between-batteries connection, then you'd need to put a tap to a similar voltage point on your LFP pack, or some other external 13.6V source relative to pack negative (or positive?), to fool it.

 

[Lessss]

 

[EVPowers]

I have a Ford "Think Bike". It had a 24v 12amp setup (two 12V/12Amp batteries). I purchased a 24V/15Amp Lifepo4 battery for it. I know the battery is ok as I have been using it on another e bike that does not have the pedal assist like the Think bike. The Lifepo4 battery has been put into the think bike battery case and wired correctly (I think). However, when I turn on the Think bike I just get a flashing (trouble/error?) light on the battery state of charge indicator. Nothing else happens. No power to the motor. If I use the old SLA batteries the bike works fine. Anyone have an idea how to remedy? Is the problem that I am using one 24V battery instead of two 12v batteries or possibly the change from SLA to the Lifepo4? Any help is greatly appreciated. Scott

I am having the same issue, I think

A single blinking red LED in the battery indicator monitor. Do you have just one LED blinking as well?

Interestingly, I previously had this bike going a few months ago.
Back then then cells were very low (under 5 V each). It took a bit but I eventually got them up to correct voltage and the bike registered all 5 LEDs.

But now when I put the charged up pack into the bike, I just get the 1 blinking LED. Dang.

What is the actual output voltage of the new battery, vs the actual voltage of the original? It is possible that "hot off the charger" the new one is too high for the controller and it is protecting itself.

Previously when the bike was working, I'd go immediately from charging to turning on the bike and things worked just fine.

I just checked and the pack voltage is at 25.5V.

 

[Lessss]

test your batteries with a pile tester
http://www2.northerntool.com/auto-repair/automotive-diagnostics/item-1673861.htm

 

[deardancer3]

The Ford Think ebike uses most of the electronics and drive train off of the old Giant Lafree Sport.

One common problem with these was the electronic brake switches would be mis adjustged and prevent the controller from supplying juce to the motor.

On Some--There is a PCB module inside the Battery module that has some type of communication with the controller. We never got any data from Giant on how that worked.

you can search on Giant Lafree sport here, google and other places for manuals, batteries, and known problems.

They are still considered quite good ebikes with updated battery chemistry.

d

 

[rkosiorek]

the same Panasonic drive unit is now being used by the Kalkhoff Agattu pedelec bikes built in Germany.

the premier site for info on these is http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/flecc/ lots of reading. some place in there there is some info on replacement of the batteries.

have you tried to reset the battery charge indicator by pressing and holding in the meter button for at least 5 seconds?

rick

 

[deardancer3]

Rick, sorry to report that the vast majority of the referenced site below is for the US Giant Lafree LIte, Not the needed Lafree Sport being discussed here.

It is though a great Lafree Lite site.

d

the same Panasonic drive unit is now being used by the Kalkhoff Agattu pedelec bikes built in Germany.

the premier site for info on these is http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/flecc/ lots of reading. some place in there there is some info on replacement of the batteries.

have you tried to reset the battery charge indicator by pressing and holding in the meter button for at least 5 seconds?

rick

 

[slowlane]

Deardancer3 : "Holding reset for 5 sec." Will this apply to the self test on Lafree sport with the same motor as Ford photo? I have battery compartment disassembled...put 24V pac thru the battery contacts (M & F) lIGHTS UP THEN...one LED flashing,ALSO 2 beeps (battery?). Self test works except torque sensor, have the wheel off , not sure if testing this right.

 

[deardancer3]

Deardancer3 : "Holding reset for 5 sec." Will this apply to the self test on Lafree sport with the same motor as Ford photo? I have battery compartment disassembled...put 24V pac thru the battery contacts (M & F) lIGHTS UP THEN...one LED flashing,ALSO 2 beeps (battery?). Self test works except torque sensor, have the wheel off , not sure if testing this right.

Working off of memory here, I think the Lite charger reset button (which I have NEVER used) will discharge the Nimh pack and then recharge from a pretty discharged state, to reduce "memory" effect?

I Never used a charger reset button on the Sport charger. Not sure if the Sport self test button will cycle correctly with the rear wheel off, as the torque sensor and the little wheel magnents will not be sensed as they normally are.

Opinion:

The important part of the Think/Sport bike is the motor chain drive combination, not the controller. The brushed motor will work very good at 36v, and a brushed 1000w 36v brushed motor will not be expensive. It will also work good at 24v,

If others have anything to add her, please to jump in.

d

 

[deardancer3]

I found the Sport operators manual electronic copy, but I dont know how to post it here.

pm me and I'll send it

d

 

[EVPowers]

I have spoken to an owner who had a local electric bike shop that wired up a generic throttle/potentiometer and bypassed the stock monitor and now he is able to ride his bike without even using pedal assist.

I hope to find out enough information about his set up to do the same thing.
I am wondering if something in that monitor is malfunctioning and preventing my bike from working.

The shop that did the bypass for him only charged him ~$60 including the part, so it must not have been very complex.

also as a side note he tried something I always wondered... if you remove one of the sensing magnets in the rear hub, will the bike go faster? The answer is yes.


Here is a few pics of the bypass that was done... now if I can only figure out what was done and duplicate it.

Feel free to chime in if you can explain what was done in these photos.

 

[EVPowers]

O.k. already have a dumb question.

Anyone know how to remove the pedal crank so that I can get the plastic side panels off?

EDIT: Google turned up this...
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/flecc/motorunit1.html
Looks like I need a crank extractor tool. Great.

This is a bike similar to the Ford Think
".... start by removing the crank plastic cap on the left and the nut shown at the right." (photos on the web site.)
"Then take your crank extractor tool, shown at the right, and unscrew the centre bolt (2) well out. Then screw the outer part (1) completely into the crank thread, taking care not to get it cross threaded. Once the outer is fully screwed home, tighten the centre bolt against the crank spindle end using the extractor handle or a spanner until the taper fit of the crank on the spindle releases. Then remove the extractor tool and the crank. Now remove it's screws and strip off the left hand cowling."

 

[EVPowers]

Well, I brought the voltage on the battery up beyond 24 V. Now up to ~25.8V, and guess what.... 3 LED lights show up on the power meter and the bike runs as it should.

After speaking with a great electric bike shop he told me over the phone that he's seen these bike's batteries be up in the 28 V range or so when full. At 24 V it is too low and will no longer provide assist.

I did not know this, and I assumed that going above 24V would be bad for the batteries, but I guess I may have been wrong.

I also have some lithium batteries around here that maybe I'll try sometime.

 

[Lessss]

A 12V brick should read 14.4ish when full

 

[PROFGOLDMAN]

Realize this is somewhat late but anyone trying to charge Lafree / Ford Think battery off the bike will have trouble with 2beeps/ flashing LED's since the battery chip monitors amp hours in/ out and controller still "thinks" the battery is discharged. Need to press reset to check present voltage after replacing battery and use built in charger. Also, when the charger green light goes on it only means battery "could" be used but really should charge for 1-2 hours more for best battery life/range.
Dick

 

[dogman dan]

In case others have seached up this thread, and have a non running think.

I recently got a cheap deal on a nonfunctional think. A few missing parts on the rotation sensor on the back wheel, but the real problem was the controller blew almost immediately when the bike was new. Battery was missing. Ebrakes wires mangled. People tried to fix I guess.

Easy fix, new 24v brushed controller cheap from ebay, and a new throttle. Stripped off all that complicated stuff, including the ebrakes since they were broken anyway, but kept the keyswitch since the new controller had wires for one. 6s lipo pack for a battery and the bike runs great, with no complicated crap to misfire.

Good little bike for low speed riding. But can't put racks to carry much on it easily because of the wierd frame.