FreeSky Swift Horse Pro — swapping locked stock controller for KT kit, sanity check before I start

[IncredibleEddie]

Hey all — working through an ebike upgrade for my dad's bike and want a sanity check before I start.


The bike: FreeSky Swift Horse Ultra X-6E, stock 48V/30A controller (label shows it's made by a company called LSDZS — generic, not Bafang or KT branded), stock display is a King Meter unit, speed sensor (not torque).


The problem: PAS levels are way too spread out for what I want. Roughly PAS 1 = 10 mph, PAS 2 = ~18 mph, PAS 3 = ~20 mph. I've got it capped at 20 mph to keep it Class 2 legal, but there's no usable step between "slow" and "basically at the limit." The stock controller is locked down — no way to adjust the PAS curve or per-level current/speed.


The plan: Replace the stock controller and King Meter display with a KT Kunteng 36V/48V 25A sine wave controller kit (comes with LCD8H display, brake levers, thumb throttle, and PAS sensor), everything plug-and-play with matching connectors. The motor connector on the bike appears to be an 11-pin Julet-style plug, and the KT kit I'm looking at comes with a matching JL-F-L1121 female plug built in — so hoping that's a direct connection with no adapter needed.


What I'm trying to figure out:

• Is the King Meter → KT display swap really this straightforward, or is there some quirk with FreeSky/King Meter systems I should know about?
• Anyone dealt with the 11-pin L1121 connector specifically — is it actually just 3 phase wires + hall/temp signal wires under the hood, or is there a gotcha with pin mapping between brands?
• For PAS tuning — is the KT LCD8H display enough to set per-level current/speed limits, or do I need the USB programming cable + software to get real control over the curve?
• Anything about cadence sensor magnet count I should double check before assuming the kit's included PAS sensor will just plug in and work?
• Is there anything else I'm not seeing here — any reason this isn't as simple as a plug-and-play controller/display/PAS swap?

Appreciate any input — trying to get this dialed in so it rides more like a bike and less like a moped, while staying reasonable/legal on top speed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0GVXGSJCJ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3063PLKK9YWLG&th=1

 

[docw009]

You might need to verify some of that LCD8H info. As far as I know, the USB port is for charging, There is no USB programming on KT displays I owned, In addition, the PAS levels are changed globally. There is no individual tuning. What you do is reduce the controller current in steps, up to fifty percent.

I've found the PAS response of the KT units better than a LSDZS unit I owned. The PAS is still an on/off switch, but each level has a certain current allocated, The motor spins up to that power level, and the bike will roll at the corresponding speed. It feels natural if the current is set low enough so that one's pedal effort contributes to movement, Torque simulation? Just advertising,

Perhaps the Kingmeter has an option to allow 5 PAS levels instead of 3?

 

[IncredibleEddie]

You might need to verify some of that LCD8H info. As far as I know, the USB port is for charging, There is no USB programming on KT displays I owned, In addition, the PAS levels are changed globally. There is no individual tuning. What you do is reduce the controller current in steps, up to fifty percent.

I've found the PAS response of the KT units better than a LSDZS unit I owned. The PAS is still an on/off switch, but each level has a certain current allocated, The motor spins up to that power level, and the bike will roll at the corresponding speed. It feels natural if the current is set low enough so that one's pedal effort contributes to movement, Torque simulation? Just advertising,

Perhaps the Kingmeter has an option to allow 5 PAS levels instead of 3?

Thanks for the clarification on the USB port — my mistake, I didn't mean programming through USB. I meant programming through the display itself, the P and C settings menu. That's what I was referring to.


Good to know the PAS levels are changed globally rather than individually tunable — that makes sense with how these current-based systems work. Sounds like the move is to cut the overall controller current down significantly, then adjust one of the C settings to bring PAS response down further (I don't remember the exact one off the top of my head, but I'll dig into it when I'm in the menu). My plan is to set that down a notch, while making sure the thumb throttle stays fully unlocked in case I need full power on tap regardless of what PAS level I'm sitting in.


Appreciate you confirming the KT PAS response feels better than the LSDZS unit I've currently got — that's reassuring, since PAS being an on/off switch tied to a current allocation is exactly what I'm expecting going in, not some magic torque simulation.


For context on how my bike currently behaves: PAS 1 gives enough power to hold about 10 mph. PAS 2 gets you close to 18 mph. PAS 3 hits 20. PAS 4 and 5 don't actually go any faster than PAS 3 — they just deliver the same top speed but with a much more aggressive, jolting surge of power getting there. So functionally I've only got 3 real steps, and the top one is already at my Class 2 cutoff — which is the whole reason I'm looking at this swap in the first place.

 

[yooper2001]

That is one thing I like about the jasion thunder pro. The PAS speeds are fully adjustable.....and the throttle is not limited by the PAS setting.

The bike is a tank though.....a very LARGE tank.