crossbreak
1 MW
great find, spinning magnets! thx again!
Friction drive opinions.
- Thread starter ls7corvete
- Start date
ls7corvete, would you be interested in trading some of your parts (Kepler drive + X) for a guaranteed working drive from me? It would include a Castle Creations ESC, but no battery or throttle. You would have a choice of one out of two 63mm outrunners. A 295-Kv, and a 250-Kv. Since they are driving a one-inch or 1.25-inch roller, they use a higher Kv than the shell drives. The 1.25-inch roller using 22V with a 295-Kv will provide 20-MPH.
The model of Castle ESC can use 28V (8S), and 28V should provide about 25-MPH. A different ESC could run 10S / 37V or...12S / 44V
Here's a drive I made for ES member rearengine, this pic has a better view of the roller:
The model of Castle ESC can use 28V (8S), and 28V should provide about 25-MPH. A different ESC could run 10S / 37V or...12S / 44V
Here's a drive I made for ES member rearengine, this pic has a better view of the roller:
ls7corvete
1 W
SM:
I did not see your post until just now. The Kepler drive has sold and just shipped about an hour ago.
I do still have Adrian's commuter booster. I would consider a trade, though I do want a drive that can dis-engage from the tire. IIRC yours are always engaged. Though I guess you can always slide yours off the tire for a pedal powered ride
Yours would likely work better with the Design Logic I have to build out, the Adrian's does not reach the tire from the seat post as this bike is a bit longer.
Send me a PM
I did not see your post until just now. The Kepler drive has sold and just shipped about an hour ago.
I do still have Adrian's commuter booster. I would consider a trade, though I do want a drive that can dis-engage from the tire. IIRC yours are always engaged. Though I guess you can always slide yours off the tire for a pedal powered ride
Yours would likely work better with the Design Logic I have to build out, the Adrian's does not reach the tire from the seat post as this bike is a bit longer. Send me a PM
spinningmagnets said:
Attachments
I'm not entirely sure this type of drive could be adapted to that frame. I felt its biggest benefit is that the seat and drive could be easily removed without tools to carry indoors while the bike stayed locked outside (apartment, dorm, etc). the welded cargo rack looks like it would block the designs mounting unless it was radically modified.
The motor and roller are on a sliding plate with a clutch bearing inside the one-inch roller. When it is unpowered it slides forward and is barely touching the tire. Because it has a clutch bearing, the roller rolls free without turning the motor, so there is no unpowered drag. As soon as you power the motor, the roller begins spinning under power, and its spinning pulls the roller down and deeper into the tread.
That being said, I also still have a high opinion of Adrians and Keplers drives.
The motor and roller are on a sliding plate with a clutch bearing inside the one-inch roller. When it is unpowered it slides forward and is barely touching the tire. Because it has a clutch bearing, the roller rolls free without turning the motor, so there is no unpowered drag. As soon as you power the motor, the roller begins spinning under power, and its spinning pulls the roller down and deeper into the tread.
That being said, I also still have a high opinion of Adrians and Keplers drives.
ls7corvete
1 W
Yes, the mount would have to be modified in some way to clear the racks. Likely I would mount the unit to the rack itself, this is what I would do with the commuter booster as well.
The commuter booster may actually reach the tire when my larger balloon tires come in, though I doubt it.
The commuter booster may actually reach the tire when my larger balloon tires come in, though I doubt it.
ls7corvete
1 W
Well I give up with this motor, I have a new 8s LiFePO4 battery that I will be using as well. So no use trying to get this thing running right when I will need a new kv for the new battery anyways.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48256
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48256
ls7corvete
1 W
adrian_sm
1 MW
Any reason you can't cut a groove for your cables in the seat tube clamp, then mount the friction drive up on the seat tube.
ls7corvete
1 W
adrian_sm said:
The seat tube is still to far from the tire to engage. I would have to build a new mount for it.
adrian_sm
1 MW
Bummer.
The two options I see are:
1) Seat Tube
- make a spacer to fit between the back of the seat tube, and the existing clamp block
- get longer clamp bolts
- this could space the axle towards the rear wheel and allow it to engage
2) Same Spot
- I assume the dead stop limits do not currently give you enough tire engagement
- I don't think you could safely adjust them enough to fix it so....
- make a new mount block that corrects the engagement geometry by rotating the existing clamp/pivot block by ~30 degrees
- then just follow the usual setup instructions of ensuring the motor wants to self engage, adjusting the counter balance spring to take most of the drive weight, then adjust the dead stops.
- should work unless you run out of adjustment in the spring
The drive was really not designed to be installed where you have it. I planned on a specific separate design instead, but have never built it.
Good luck.
- Adrian
The two options I see are:
1) Seat Tube
- make a spacer to fit between the back of the seat tube, and the existing clamp block
- get longer clamp bolts
- this could space the axle towards the rear wheel and allow it to engage
2) Same Spot
- I assume the dead stop limits do not currently give you enough tire engagement
- I don't think you could safely adjust them enough to fix it so....
- make a new mount block that corrects the engagement geometry by rotating the existing clamp/pivot block by ~30 degrees
- then just follow the usual setup instructions of ensuring the motor wants to self engage, adjusting the counter balance spring to take most of the drive weight, then adjust the dead stops.
- should work unless you run out of adjustment in the spring
The drive was really not designed to be installed where you have it. I planned on a specific separate design instead, but have never built it.
Good luck.
- Adrian
Kepler
10 MW
ls7corvete said:
The way it is mounted, it won't engage and hold on the tire. You need to drop your pivot point down. Easy to work out the correct pivot point. With the motor fully engaged into the tire, you should be able to draw a straight line between the pivot point, motor shaft, and rear axle. This will get you very close. You then need to slightly lift the pivot by a few mm and you should be close
Not sure if the end stops would have enough adjustment in this position though. I personally found the bottom bracket position the hardest to setup. It can be done though.
adrian_sm
1 MW
Funny, I never found the need to go as far as straight line engagement.
If the tire contacts the motor about where that right most motor mount screw is on the can, it should be close to the required self engage angle. If not then as kepler says the pivot point will need to be lowered. Then it is just a matter of how much tire engagement you need for the power levels you set it at. If it can go as far as keplers straight line, then it will have enough engagement.
If the tire contacts the motor about where that right most motor mount screw is on the can, it should be close to the required self engage angle. If not then as kepler says the pivot point will need to be lowered. Then it is just a matter of how much tire engagement you need for the power levels you set it at. If it can go as far as keplers straight line, then it will have enough engagement.
Kepler
10 MW
I found that the bottom bracket position was more critical in relation to close to a straight line full engagement alignment then mounting postions essentially above the wheel. Gravity is really working against you with the drive mounted on the bottom bracket.
