Genesis V2100 Build

Productive and frustrating couple of days.

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Varnished the stator with Sprayon Clear Varnish . Would definitely recommend to anyone venting their hub

I also got my torque arms from doctorbass and dp420'd them onto my bike

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Now for the frustrating part.

Like the noob I forgot to jot down which color phase / hall each wire was before replacing them with lower gauge stuff, so i'm stuck trying all 36 combos. The only problem is that I have tried all of them a couple times and none of them work :!:

Well one of the combos kinda works but its loud as hell (constant growling) and I need to spin it to get it to work.

The halls are functioning well, and none of the phases are shorted out. Could I have a controller issue?

Arg.

So in the mean time i'm going to prep the new meanwell I got for the r33 mod with external pots (both voltage and current), voltmeter, and fan cooling.

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Video to come of hub motor retardation.
 
Its been a long while since I've had time to update but I feel that its good practice (however late) to keep a rolling list of upgrades or mods so that others can evaluate and learn from the collective knowledge pool.

So here goes.

Historical

Going back to the original greentime controller fails, it turns out that when my phase wires melted, it shorted with one of the hall sensor sense wires. Interestingly enough, it only damaged the single input pin on the cpu. I tried a cpu swap from a hua tong but without a heat gun its pretty difficult. I actually managed to get it operational, but it exhibited a lot of jerky behavior. I eventually discovered that several vias on the board had been partially vaporized and after repairing several of them under the cpu, I ran out of room for "vias" (drill a hole and drip solder through) and had to scrap the board.

I ended up getting a 18 mosfet 4115 controller from Lyen. I regret not getting a 4110 but my reasoning behind still stands: I don't want to run components at their rated limit. I'm still running 24s but now I have the option of going to 28 or 32s. Also, I have to admit that I thought that the programming ability was very overrated but after having that ability to flash and re-flash my controller rapidly I've decided that its a huge advantage over having to open it up and solder changes. I also have a backup 15 mosfet chinese controller now in case I blow a mosfet on the Lyen.

After putting a couple hundred miles on the bike with the new controller, I had a I had a rim shearing incident. The cheap chinese rack that came with my starter kit fell apart en route to school and one of the support beams got caught in the spokes. As a testament to the strength of the 12 gauge spokes, they tore cleanly out of the rim and were in good shape. After a week and 40 dollars, I was back! This was solely to the collective knowledge of the 'sphere. if I had gone to the local bike shop it would have cost me over 200 dollars and I would have been bikeless for 2 weeks! I really recommend watching ypedal's video on relacing/rebuilding wheels. It was very helpful. Also Eighthinch's Bueler rim is a perfect match for golden motor's rim because of its ERD, width and construction.

After that incident, I wanted to move my big pack (24s 10ah) into the triangle because I didn't want to ever deal with a rear mounted battery (handling was horrible). So using only dp460 (slightly better characteristics than dp420) I made myself a battery mount. It has 4 bolts that allows me to remove it completely from the bike in minutes and also allows me to securely mount my controller mosfet side facing out.

To be replaced with better pictures
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The only reason that I made such an elaborate / bulky system is because I really don't have any tools on me and dp460 is really the way to go when your frame is aluminum.

I also implemented a Dr.Bass/Tench style charging/balancing system using DB-37 connectors. The difference between 1 plug and 18 plugs is ... well, 18 times better :lol:

Observations

DB37 connectors are really easy to work with, would recommend.
Magnet wire is a great way to upgrade phase wires, also would recommend.
Cycle Analyst is really only priced that way because its the only game in town. Arduino + Android is the way to go.
The stock fork on the genesis is S#*t.

Planned Upgrades

Jeremy/Kfong soft start system
Full implementaing of Tench's run plug system
Onboard charger (zero style cabling)
New fork
Paint
Replace Derailleur
Arduino + Android

I've put nearly 500 more miles on the bike. Here is to thousands more
 
How is the bike? I see you don't use a Torque arm... How is that working out for you?

EDIT: I missed the entire second page... Derp. Nevermind... I guess I can wait for those arms before I go out again...
 
DragonPhyre said:
I guess I can wait for those arms before I go out again...

To be honest I was running a lot more power before I put the torque arms on (7kW+ burst) and I had zero problems. Granted that was without regen, I would tighten the axle bolts down as hard as I could and I regularly inspected it.

But yeah torque arms are just good insurance if nothing else.
 
Update time:

Completed Mods:
  • Super ghetto tench-like system *Using nothing but a drill bit (read no drill, just the bit), pencil knife, hotglue and a soldering iron #win

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  • New RockShox XC 28 front fork. A steal if you have amazon prime + warehouse deals.
  • New rear shock. Still generic but its so much better than the crap piston that comes with the bike.

Those last two mods, in concert, have completely changed the bike. Super docile, more throttle controllable and way more stable at high speed.

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Album Link

To Do:
  • Replace rear gear cluster: utter GM garbage.
  • Use Molex connectors to make a real run plug
  • Temp sensor install + Hub motor rewind
 
cohberg said:
DragonPhyre said:
I guess I can wait for those arms before I go out again...
To be honest I was running a lot more power before I put the torque arms on (7kW+ burst) and I had zero problems. Granted that was without regen, I would tighten the axle bolts down as hard as I could and I regularly inspected it.

But yeah torque arms are just good insurance if nothing else.

I'm not doing regen so you think I would be fine with the one that e-bike kit sends out? There's no real good angles to install it... I think I might just do it anyway, just incase it helps in some way. I want to get out there again!

cohberg said:
Update time:
[*]Super ghetto tench-like system *Using nothing but a drill bit (read no drill, just the bit), pencil knife, hotglue and a soldering iron #win
How did you make this system? I was so not looking forward to connecting all those connectors to my battery charger.
 
DragonPhyre said:
How did you make this system? I was so not looking forward to connecting all those connectors to my battery charger.

I have class in a few so this will be brief. If you want me to do into detail later lmk.

At pack level:

  • I used a block of balsa as the base
    • on the "plug" side (battery side):
      • for male plugs: drilled 17/64" through-hole | 5/16" quarter inch deep (for base of plug)
      • for female: 5/16" through hole
    • for the "run" side
      • just soldered together bullets using solid 8ga copper into a U shape (male female with solid copper above forming the bottom of the upsidedown U), inserted them into the "plug" side, lubed up the "plug" side surface to prevent sticking to the face, hollowed out the other half of the balsa wood, then used a metric-f**kton of hotglue as a poor man shapeable and injectable polymer.

To charge (cell level):

  • Using cell balance plugs: wired up the batteries to the dc-37 connector at cell level.
  • Female end has everything disconnected grouped by cell number (groups of 6 ie: on dc-37 pins 1-3,20-22 is ground 4-6,23-25 is cell 1)
  • On male side, solder blob for each group of 6 to charge

Recommend you go with the much nicer looking (and better documented version)
 
DragonPhyre said:
I'm not doing regen so you think I would be fine with the one that e-bike kit sends out? There's no real good angles to install it... I think I might just do it anyway, just incase it helps in some way. I want to get out there again!

If you are really that worried, make your own, or just get a couple of wrenches and hose clamp them to your bike, lot of that has been done on the forum
 
So what did you do with your rear gears? It looks like you removed the derailleur for the torque arm?
 
torque arm does have a m10 tapped hole for the derailler, just never got around to re installing the chain + derailler
 
Ah, so I would have to go get a new longer bolt to keep the rear gears... I see said the blind man.
 
actually no, the torque arm (at least for dr. bass) has the standard tapped hole, the genesis derailleur bolt should carry over and be long enough.
 
Hmm... I looked at it, and it's not long enough to engage the threads on the bike but then again the DP420 should be able to take care of that. It is going to fiddle with the gear settings being that it is half-inch farther out. But yeah, it does screw into the threads just fine.
 
subscribed
 
Lots of DP460 later and swingarm is almost done. Just need to do drop outs and 2nd stage reduction
Final reduction is going to be 11.3:1 [12:32 - 9:38] (42 Mph) or quick swappable to 8.4 [16:32 - 9:38] (56 Mph)
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2nd stage center support, bearing and shaft in. Just have chain and dropouts to go!
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Oh dear, this is about to get insane :mrgreen:
 
With the trapezoidal controller + chain noises its pretty freaking loud. Doesn't pass for a bike anymore: its just too long. For stealth i think i'm going to disguise it as a cargo bike or something.

Wants to lift even with a 12" extended swing arm at power levels below 5kw. So powerful in fact that it ejected the set screws on the gears into my ass (thus no gears on the bike in the picture). :shock:
 
Lol, you're not officially part of the M.E.N.S club ;D
Tune your phase amp to battery amp ratio down to prevent those mega wheelies.
 
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