Scott said:
I am unable to use the pinch bolt on the disk side because of how the wires come out of the cromotor and they have to go through the drop out part were the bolt normally goes. What do you think about using regen with only the chain side with a pinch bolt?
I did have to grind down the inside of the drop out a little bit but the disk side is very tight and I have to lightly hammer the axle to get it all the way down in the drop out.
Hey Scott, I am feelin this same issue right now too. Since I have not been able to find a 150mm drop out I have been contemplating options on how to make the 135mm one work. I am thinking about a couple of methods, one of which may help with your wire problem. As I see it the issues are three:
1. Although the Cromotor WILL fit in the drop outs, i would really rather not spread them any more with spacer washers if I don't have to. But the disk rotor and rotor bolts contact the frame without them. I did find a good way to get the drive side to work without spacer washers, see my build thread:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=55605
2. The wheel will need an almost unacceptable amount of dish to be centered up in the frame due to the asymetry of this drop-out.
3. Conventionally mounting the disk makes it almost impossible to line up with the caliper when it is mounted conventionally, yet moving the disk to a direct mount on the side cover causes the caliper to rub.
This made me start thinking of ways to move the disk closer to the side cover but only part of the thickness of the brake adapter ring. So here is an unconventional method that may work for me. First, I will mill the brake adapter ring down to about half of its current thickness on the back side and take about 1mm off the top face too (this still allows the side cover mounting bolts to clear the surface. Now I will mount the brake disk to the BACK side of this adapter. This will put the disk mounting bolt heads on the inside pointing toward the motor. Now, I will use a shim washer of just the right thickness between the disk and the motor side cover. This shim washer will allow me to space the caliper location out from the motor so that it just barely clears. This method should also make the disk mounting somewhat more solid since it will be firmly attached to the disk adapter and then sandwiched between that and the motor. The shim washer and the disk will need clearance holes for the disk adapter bolts to pass through. It will also need some small cut-outs to clear the disc mount bolt heads that will sit in the space between the disc adapter and the side cover. The result will be a much closer alignment of the caliper and the conventional frame mount for the kiwi TA adapter (some additional milling of the brake mount may be necessary). Also, the disk mounting bolts will no longer contact the frame, and the whole thickness of the disk mounting assembly will be reduced enough that I may be able to take some material off the axel shoulder on that side. This would reduce the over-all shoulder-to-shoulder width of the motor and also move the motor over a few mm toward center so that less dishing is needed. The other bonus advantage of doing it this way is that since the disk is moved further toward the center of the motor, there should be more space for the wires to safely bend up over the pinch bolt of the kiwi adapter.
I am still just working this out in my mind but I don't see any real flaws after taking some preliminary measurements. Of course the 150mm swing arm would solve a majority of these problems and would be my preferred method...if only I could find one. I still have a couple of possibilities so probably won't do this modification just yet. When and if I do though, I will document it with pics on my build thread:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=55605
Hi Kiwi. Hey long time! Drop outs are still working awesome. My friend is just trying to source out some drop out torque arms for his Brodie 8 Ball. I dont suppose you would have the interest or time to consider these these for custom one off's. Also a question for you.......HIs bike will be only running through a mac 10t 1800 watts in the rear wheel. If he goes the custom one off route from a local cnc guy do you think he could get away with just one side. Say if the disc brake side had a 1/4" Stainless Steel replacement for the removable aluminum drop out shown in the attachment? He will of course not be using re gen with the mac so I am half thinking one side may be good enough if its nice and thick. Also the fastening system for the removable drop outs used on this bike are very robust. What do you think about this?
