Giant Glory Tangent Build

[Mugenski]

Hey ES,

Decided to start a thread for my Glory Tangent build. I've been cluttering up the Tangent thread a little too much

I started with a medium sized Giant Glory rocking a mismatch of components. After a rebuild of the shock and a new front rim and hub I feel like this project is slowly evolving into my own creation and not just a hackjob of second hand parts.

I started with the G1 tangent 3220 3T and 20:1 reduction and upgraded to the Gen1.5 kit with waterjacket when Dave released it. The thermals are much better with the Gen1.5. When I switched to the 1.5 I also added some more thermal mass to the Talon heatsink as well as a small fan that that the Talon easily accommodated. My end goal is is to modify an old corsair H100i CPU cooler/rad for the Talon. At this point it is only for bragging rights to have a radiator on my ebike It is very difficult to trip the Talons thermal protection with both added heatsink and fan. I am planning to mount the rad inside the triangle since it is essentially dead space as I am unable to mount the tangent there.

My battery is a backpack at 52v and 25Ah usable (31.2Ah total). I have yet to use the full range of the pack and I estimate with a restrained wrist and some pedaling that I could get 100km+ out of the pack. I am using 12 6s 5200mah and 6 2s 5200mah Tattu batteries for 14s. These are commonly used for larger UAVs. The packs aren't high discharge pouches like you would see on smaller race drones however thanks to the overall size I can still pull 200+ amps without worry. There are some bum cells in the pack when under load as reported by my Neptune light. I have some nichrome wire wound up to test each 6s pack individually as if it were under load equal to the 130A collective load. Hopefully I will be able to find the culprit packs/cells. As I never ride the full pack I may just pull the offending packs to lighten my backpack load. I would still have a 21Ah usable pack if I drop the worst battery from each parallel group. I have also wired up Aux power from the Talon BEC to power my lights when I get around to mounting them.

I am currently working on cleaning up my wiring harness, I was using simple 6 lead parallel balance charging cables. The mess is starting to drive me nuts so I am looking to modify some Parallel balance boards to cut down on the wiring. Hobbyking has a board with an exposed main trace that would be easily beefed up with solder or even a copper bar. I plan to have a friend print some battery holders out of TPU for each of the 3 parallel groups I am running. The parallel boards should fit into the battery holders and allow me to ditch the messy 6 in once balance/charge leads.

Here are a few pictures of the bike with the original G1 black tangent kit in various states of progress over the past winter. The Gen1.5 is silver and I will upload those pictures as I complete more of the project. The moto seat is a spare seat from a DR650 that I had laying around. Unfortunately I sold my welder a number of years ago so I never got around to making a mount for it. Instead I went to a Selle Royal drifter seat. It's more comfy and allows me to grab the bike better with my thighs as I am accustomed to from my moto riding.

Edit: Photos linked externally https://imgur.com/a/EmEgbyy

 

[ScooterMan101]

Do you have a digital camera or someone you know has one ?

Even the cheapest ones should have the function of being able to adjust the pixels down from the current 12 mp or so down to about 2 or 4 mp per picture.

Would like to see how you are charging the batteries now, as the 6 into one charge cables I see on H.K. have 16 or 14 awg wire. So I can not see charging at a good amp rate with such thin wires .

You say 6 parallel balance charging cables . do you mean 6 into 1 charging harness ? or 6 into 1 balance cables ?
or did you write that way to say you have both parallel charge , and , balance cables ?

 

[Mugenski]

I linked the photos externally for everyone. I like keeping it hi-res 8)

I run both 6in1 charge leads and balance leads. I am now working with some beefed up balance board PCBs to help cut down on the wiring mess that resides in the backpack battery. Ideally I will 3d print a little box for each parallel group of batteries with the board mounted on top and everyone can connect neatly. Having all these 6in1 leads is tiresome and cluttered. The PCB will be the way to go I think. The main traces are 8mm wide, just debating if solder is enough or I should add some copper bus bars to it.

Charging is done with a dual port hobby charger and I split the battery down into it's 3 parallel groups. 2 groups of 6 x 6s, and 1 group of 6 x 2s. Takes longer than I like but perhaps one day I will move up to a larger hobby charger.

 

[knurf]

I can recommend using a beefy BMS together with the rc lipo's, if not just for the improved ease of charge. Charge the whole pack safely by just plugging in a single connector with as much juice as the pack can handle.

I'm testing this one with 150A limit and screen: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/pr...ml?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.1.a9062456nZDvWI I can detail how I wired it if anyone's interested.

If each charge cycle involves you disconnecting stuff and reconnecting, there's a ever present risk of eventually connecting something wrong (at least I did..). It will also cause more wear on cables and connectors, especially those wimpy balance lead connectors and wires. If/when they go it probably won't be catastrophic, since they are so thin they might just burn up instantly, but could be scary!