Giant NRS FS 55.5v E-Bikekit build. (IN FRAME BAG!)

[SoMoney]

The BIKE: 2001 Giant NRS XTC1 Aluminum FS Frame (MTB of the Year). ($1200-$700)


The Kit: E-BikeKit.com Electric Bike Conversion Kit - REAR - Direct-Drive ($392.00)


The Battery: 4 x 6S1P Turnigy 5000maH 25C-35C 22.2V Packs Wired into a 12S2P 44.4V 10AH Brick configuration. ($256.50)


UPDATE: REPLACED CONTROLLER WITH 12 x 4110 MOSFET Extreme Modder Controller LYEN Edition! ($129)
View attachment Lyen5.JPG

UPDATE: Added a SHORT FRAME BAG FROM HI-POWERCYCLES.
View attachment Hi-PowerCycles Short FrameBag.jpeg


===================================The Build SO FAR====================



Since I'm Running 4 x 5000maH in a 44.4v 10AH Configuration its Quiet Small.. I'm Toying Arround wiith the idea of forging the rear rack and getting an under seat bag that can accommodate.


The DISC required 2 extra washers to line up with the Avid break pads.. Its still a smidgen to short but I'll probably run it until my next pad replacement.
I'm Using Velcro straps right now so I can adjust at will.

View attachment 4
This is the part that Scares me with these eBike builds on Aluminum frames....... Necessary but a hose clamp? Really?
TOTAL WEIGHT WITH 10AH 44.4V 12S2P Turnigy Packs: 50.0lbs
TOTAL WEIGHT WITH 10AH 55.5V 15S2P Turnigy Packs: 53.0lbs

 

[adrian_sm]

Looking good, and really light weight for what you have. Nice.

Love the copious amounts of velcro. :lol:

I would highly recommend trying to put the batteries in the frame if you can, it really helps with the weight distribution (front to back), as well as keeping it low. And your frame is just made for it. Of course if you like doing wheelies leaving it where it is will help.

- Adrian

P.S. Both my first couple of builds got them in the frame, check my signature if it helps.

 

[Philistine]

I sometimes think that people are too paranoid and overly cautious about the hazards of Lipo, but that is a pretty naked block of Lipo you have hanging there. What about at least wrapping the Lipo in something (even just cardboard reinforced with duct tape would be better than nothing) to help with punture proofing it? I can imagine a lot of events that could lead to Lipo puncture just hanging naked there. But maybe I am just a pussy.

Getting them into the frame as suggested would be good though, not just for weight and handling, but for protecting from puncture etc.. (but again, that is the seatbelt helmet wearing nancy boy coming out in me again)

If you can afford a cycle analyst DP and a Lyen 12 Fet controller, the Lyen controller would be twice the size of your controller, but not much heavier. That way you could change your amps at your whim as suited you.

Cheers Phil.

 

[SoMoney]

I think anyone with a year of LiPO experience and can recognize when to dispose of a tired pack can easily make the switch. It's the guy that knows his pack(s) is/are dieing but tries to get those last few flights/rides in that needs to take extra care. Turnigy 5000mAH 25C-35C (125A/175A) can 100% handle a continuous 50A drain and only get slightly warm. If a cell starts to bloat or charge to 4.2v faster than then other cells its time to replace.

Remember the NRS1 is a race frame and the rider needs to lean forward so it road quite well and handled some curb jumps nicely. Inside the frame is ideal however it screams E-Bike and Im looking for something a little stealthier... I'm shopping for under seat bags to try out 1st before I do what everyone else is..

 

[Mark_A_W]

Looking good, and really light weight for what you have. Nice.

Love the copious amounts of velcro. :lol:

I would highly recommend trying to put the batteries in the frame if you can, it really helps with the weight distribution (front to back), as well as keeping it low. And your frame is just made for it. Of course if you like doing wheelies leaving it where it is will help.

- Adrian

P.S. Both my first couple of builds got them in the frame, check my signature if it helps.

Yeah, it's DUCT TAPE TIME!!!

Whack those bats in the frame. And put some plastic over them as a shield, because you will fall off....it happens.

 

[SoMoney]

Stumbled on a TOPEAK-DynaPack! ($39-59) They can Easily support my 12S2P and "Maybe" my 18S2P...
It's small and rated for a 10lb capacity (Turnigy 12S2P 10AH pack is under 7lbs).

I dont trust the plastic quick release so'll I'll probably be adding some Velcro supports (maybe some DucTape ) ..

Stay tuned for final build picks...

 

[Mark_A_W]

That's a crap place to put the batteries...

Your bike will have a fat arse, and it will handle like it has a fat arse. Ever do a paper round with the papers in a box on the back?....


Get a frame bag instead.

 

[SoMoney]

View attachment 6
The DynaPack is lighter/shorter than traditional rear seat racks. Once my local trails dry back up, I'll let you know how this fat arse mod effects my riding....


12S2P 10AH!


I had to pick up 4 packs of metal washers at Home Depot.


I'm still half a washer away from true center. Maybe I can add a thin washer on the Break side to line it up.
EDIT: Loosened the bolts on the Hayes rear caliper and I was able to line it up!

View attachment 2
The 7spd Casset is pretty beefy and loud(click'click'click), as you can see its a hair too close to the frame, I have some chain scrape when im in the lowest gear. Going to take wheel off and swap the thinner washer inside the frame with one of the thicker ones from ebikekit.


The Dyna pack fits the 4 x 5000MAH Lipos easily and 4(6S1P)+2(3S1P) x 5000Mah MAX WEIGHT. It's also rigged enough for Air Holes to be cut in.
EDIT: 6x5000 is TO MUCH! It drops right outta the bracket
EDIT: Switching to a 55.5V 15S2P pack to see if she hold that.
EDIT: This DynaPack looks great but it has ISSUES! The Velcro sucks and needs to be Glued (Crazy=Okay, Epoxy=Best) together to prevent it from dropping into the tire. Mine is all chewed up now from several drops.


Another shot of the Torque Arm.

 

[torker]

That Topeak looks way better than all the Velcro. Make sure you search out some of the good torque arm designs floating around and fab something proper up before trying any more volts or amps. What happens is the harder stainless cuts into the softer axle like butter. Those 9c motors can make a lot of torque. Nice looking machine

 

[SoMoney]

I did some casual hard pack here in California and didnt notice the extra rear weight much until I did the occasional mini jump. The Extra 12lbs of rim was interesting and I'll need to tighten up these spokes.... Odd but the landings seamed softer? Probably me being more careful(I'll need to re adjust my shocks)...
On The Weight distribution, I'm not running LiFEPO or LeadAcid, I'm running a 7lbs LiPO which isnt too bad!. The TopPeak DynaPack only weighs a pound along with 7lbs of Lipos (10AH) so the Arse isn't to heavy :lol: .

Agreed on the Torque ARM!
The torque arm provided by ebikekit looks beefy; that adjustment bolt while necessary to adapt to different frame types, also introduces a pivot point if the dropout starts to give.
I know that I need to remove the wheel again to address my Disc Break and Rear Cassette alignments, I'll see what I can fab up but I'm not confident in drilling holes in my aluminum frame

QUESTION: If the Dropout Fails, and the TORQUE ARM Twists, What direction would it spin?! Clock or Counter-Clock?

 

[jlustig83]

I did some casual hard pack here in California and didnt notice the extra rear weight much until I did the occasional mini jump. The Extra 12lbs of rim was interesting and I'll need to tighten up these spokes.... Odd but the landings seamed softer? Probably me being more careful(I'll need to re adjust my shocks)...
On The Weight distribution, I'm not running LiFEPO or LeadAcid, I'm running a 7lbs LiPO which isnt too bad!. The TopPeak DynaPack only weighs a pound along with 7lbs of Lipos (10AH) so the Arse isn't to heavy :lol: .

Agreed on the Torque ARM!
The torque arm provided by ebikekit looks beefy; that adjustment bolt while necessary to adapt to different frame types, also introduces a pivot point if the dropout starts to give.
I know that I need to remove the wheel again to address my Disc Break and Rear Cassette alignments, I'll see what I can fab up but I'm not confident in drilling holes in my aluminum frame

QUESTION: If the Dropout Fails, and the TORQUE ARM Twists, What direction would it spin?! Clock or Counter-Clock?

If your looking at the right side of your bike, like in your picture above. The torque arm would want to spin counter clockwise when aplying the throttle.

 

[SoMoney]

If your looking at the right side of your bike, like in your picture above. The torque arm would want to spin counter clockwise when aplying the throttle.

Thanks jlustig83, its not too bad having the torque arm pointing downward like this then.

If it went the other way I'd probably be in big trouble.

 

[torker]

Maybe you won't have to drill any holes. If you can get something sorta like this and bolt it through the existing holes in your frame.

 

[dogman dan]

While I must say, put the batts in the frame too, I have ridden similar configuration with more weight. It can be gotten used to, but it isn't perfect. After riding a lot with a 15 pound ping back there, I did find that an 8 pound lipo battery was hardly noticeable.

My new dirtbike has the batts on the frame along the top tube, and handles a LOT better. I can load it up with 20 pounds of lipo and barely affect the handling So get er done some day. You only have it good now because you are limiting your ride length.

Otherwise, very nice!

 

[daddylonglegs]

Looks awesome. Very stealthy, even if it does have a big butt. We have a lot of those here in Wisconsin I really like the looks of that bike.

What is your top speed with that controller? What kind of range? I'm very tempted to take your route in converting my FS Trek.

 

[SoMoney]

I'll try to do a longer dirt ride this weekend but the e-bikekit controller has a 22A limiter so the batteries last much longer than my wifes ebay 500w controller..... I took a quick 5mile ride around my area (4mi city 1mi dirt), brought the bike into work and let the guys here play with it for about 30minutes doing wheelies n' stuff and when I recharged the 10,000MAH pack last night, it was only down 800MAH per pack (4pack).

This will be mostly off road use so I guesstimate a 10-12mile range of hard riding on the e-bikekit controller.

I've ordered a 12FET Lyen w/USB Adapter for off road use. Probably get about 7mile range when I'm done ....

Stay tuned and I'll document the hookup and programing as soon as she arrives...

 

[SoMoney]

Maybe you won't have to drill any holes. If you can get something sorta like this and bolt it through the existing holes in your frame.

Interesting idea...... I have a blacksmith near my work, I can probably show him this picture and see what he can do.

If I can find a machine shop, I bet I can get a plate crafted that SITS in the exposed triangles.
Then I only need to use the single shaft bolt, and the torque would be pushed out to the top/bottom triangle cut outs..

 

[torker]

Maybe you won't have to drill any holes. If you can get something sorta like this and bolt it through the existing holes in your frame.

Interesting idea...... I have a blacksmith near my work, I can probably show him this picture and see what he can do.

If I can find a machine shop, I bet I can get a plate crafted that SITS in the exposed triangles.
Then I only need to use the single shaft bolt, and the torque would be pushed out to the top/bottom triangle cut outs..

Have you searched out some torque arm designs on the site. You can probably see a pic of some guys already made that will be better than my lame pic. Also if you can make it a little thicker and incorporate a pinch bolt then you could throw all the volts/amps at it that you want within reason..

 

[jlustig83]

Here are some pics of the torque arms i made.
They are 1/4 inch steel so i can put some power
to them later if i want. It took me about a day
to make them.

 

[Lenk42602]

money,

a little old, but a very applicable design for your needs. my old GT LTS frame has a similar configuration on the chain and seat stays.

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3801&hilit=want+torque+arms

cheers,

Len

 

[SoMoney]

money,

a little old, but a very applicable design for your needs. my old GT LTS frame has a similar configuration on the chain and seat stays.

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3801&hilit=want+torque+arms

cheers,

Len

That looks great, would defiantly apply to any 4pivot design.. I really like the Adjustable aspect of it. When my Lyen 12F comes in I'll be shamelessly plagiarizing your work.... :wink:

 

[SoMoney]

Stumbled on a TOPEAK-DynaPack! ($39-59) They can Easily support my 12S2P and "Maybe" my 18S2P...
It's small and rated for a 10lb capacity (Turnigy 12S2P 10AH pack is under 7lbs).

I dont trust the plastic quick release so'll I'll probably be adding some Velcro supports (maybe some DucTape ) ..

Stay tuned for final build picks...

Had a little mishap today 8miles in with the Dyna pack. Apparently the REAR reflector flap not pictured here was NOT FASTENED. The Velcro gave way and the pack fell into the tire.
VVVVVVRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr................................................................
Re--Velcro and back home to the drawing board.....

Now I know why the above picture has the Elastic straps UNDER the DynaPack. I bet the guy had a similar experience.... I'll be re-enforcing my Dynapack undercarriage with some ZipTies that WONT GIVE after just 6 jumps!

 

[jlustig83]

[View attachment 1
The Dyna pack fits the 4 x 5000MAH Lipos easily and 6 x 5000Mah tight. It's also rigged enough for Air Holes to be cut in.

The dyna pack really fits 6 5000Mah lipo. That is great. Im gonna get one

 

[SoMoney]

WARNING!!! The DynaPack WILL NOT WORK for E-Bikes.
After 2 weeks the aluminum ring itself has fatigued and is starting to SAG towards the wheel!

It may be fine for casual street riding at 36V but NOT FOR OFF ROAD "AT ALL".

Really sucks, because I liked how it didnt stick to far out from the back.

 

[Mark_A_W]

I feel like a broken record..

Do a search on cantilever or rear racks and you'll see that they pretty much all fail in the end. Dogman's was about the only one that didn't, it had big struts back to the frame.

I made my rack strong enough that the frame broke.


Put the batteries in the triangle. Just do it.