GoldenMotors Manufacturer

Guys,
When i read that post I Lol'ed so hard. Philip is my Dad, I'm Yao Yuan, his son. Haha guys let me be clear of myself, I was playing around with the forum functions, so I thought I could change the post to 1337 (LEET) you know? gamer stuff, and regarding the forum stuff yes, I am here to handle all of his stuff, because philip has to manage RnD plus supplier locating. Anyway guys, just mail all your stuff to me.
Cheers,
Yao Yuan

P.S. Those who know the GM forum's catalogue, you can go check out my dad's photo. We look so different lol.
 
GoldenMotor said:
Philip is my Dad, I'm Yao Yuan, his son...

...you can go check out my dad's photo. We look so different lol.

Thank You for clarifying that, Yao! I'm sorry I felt compelled to raise the question. We're really happy to have you here (well, at least *I* am :)), and that you appear willing to face up to a fair bit of initial (and as some here argue, well deserved) abuse in trying to gain the trust of the folks in this community. When the question marks starting flying around regarding Golden Motor last year, some of us started to wonder who was behind it. Your Dad's non-Anglicized name is Guohua Yuan, then, is it? That was what we were able to glean from the registrar of your domain.

A popular saying over here is, "you reap what you sow". It's unfortunate that you appear to have a fair thicket of choking vines to clear up (not to mention some weeds) before everyone here can enjoy your garden. I'm optimistic that you'll make it happen.

With respect to the new products coming out, and notwithstanding the technical challenges of keeping an all-in-one motor/controller combination cool, only one thing jumps out at me. Stealth. Or the lack of it. I like my bikes to look like bikes with "something extra" on them, not like bicycle-shaped electric toys. The paint job on the new "pancake" motor, in my opinion, looks cheesy. Crystalyte's plain, painted, exteriors draw far less attention than something with an ornate spinning pattern on it - which would be even more worrisome on the larger diameter pancake. More similar to the Golden Motor, even the Nine Continent's plain and polished exterior is preferable. If pushing the brand is an issue, I'd be more inclined to affix a tasteful applique to the frame of my bike, subtly advertising the maker of my motor, than I would to put a motor on my bike that draws its own attention. Being a 220lb guy over six feet tall, and speeding along at 45km/h on a regular looking bike gets me enough attention of its own :).

I personally think that a complete turn-key electric bike is a difficult product to sell. If the technology (especially the battery) is decent, then the investment is already on its way to being an expensive one for most people. First time buyers aren't going to "get" where the money is, so throwing a cheap frame and components around this to keep a certain price point will surely fail. The cheapness of the bike will be instantly recognized when compared to a regular bike of decent quality, while the price being asked will seem out of line. Rectifying that and putting a decent bike around this thing will quickly shift you into selling to folks with deep pockets, and the end product better be robust and highly refined, or the value won't be perceived. Even at that, I'm given to wonder - two of the local bike shops have a couple of bikes out of the Giant "Twist" line on display. Has either shop sold one yet? No.

One way around this would be to offer the bike a la carte. Present your base models in a way that focuses on the quality of the actual bicycle components (make sure you have a bicycle that can stand up as, well, a decent bicycle), with the choice of motor and batteries neatly packaged as separate line items. This will help first timers to understand that the batteries can cost more than the bike, and draw out some intelligent conversation about their importance. The subtle difference in this approach to "pre-packaging" a couple of different configurations to meet a certain price scale, in my mind, is that obfuscation of where the true savings are can only lead to less customer satisfaction. People buying the low-end bike will perceive more of a value difference in the components, for example, and will quickly be willing to make that sacrifice to get something that works - only to come back to you feeling ill-used because they figure out pretty quickly that they really needed the bigger battery, and - surprise - these are expensive! (Can you tell that I think keeping the technology in front of people is important, here?).

Which leads to the other thing that's needed. A really decent, solid, tested kit. You may have a great motor, a great controller, and a decently priced battery with charger. The difference between whether the kit flies or tanks with the average consumer comes down to a few dollars worth of hardware. A GOOD mounting system, clear instructions, and enough hardware to adapt the thing to a variety of bikes (don't forget the fasteners to keep the wiring tidy, even if its only a package of wire ties). And, fer God's sake, put some kind of weather resistant connector in the phase/hall wire near the hub - so people can get the wheel off to change a flat without rewiring their bike. The additional cost of these subtleties will pay back in spades.

OK. I'll shut up now.
 
Which leads to the other thing that's needed. A really decent, solid, tested kit. You may have a great motor, a great controller, and a decently priced battery with charger. The difference between whether the kit flies or tanks with the average consumer comes down to a few dollars worth of hardware. A GOOD mounting system, clear instructions, and enough hardware to adapt the thing to a variety of bikes (don't forget the fasteners to keep the wiring tidy, even if its only a package of wire ties). And, fer God's sake, put some kind of weather resistant connector in the phase/hall wire near the hub - so people can get the wheel off to change a flat without rewiring their bike. The additional cost of these subtleties will pay back in spades.

well stated.
 
Yeh, I am constantly updating the user manual I wrote for you folks, or rather for the noobs. Yeh, the Pie was designed to look like the Rolls Royce Engine when it spins. Yeh, it is gonna be more expensive unlezz u can order in bulk, which will save urselves da shippin cost. Which iz why we recommendz group buying, until we set up our distributor/aftersales service network in the states and europe. Yeh, from the depths I come.
 
GoldenMotor said:
Yeh, I am constantly updating the user manual I wrote for you folks, or rather for the noobs. Yeh, the Pie was designed to look like the Rolls Royce Engine when it spins. Yeh, it is gonna be more expensive unlezz u can order in bulk, which will save urselves da shippin cost. Which iz why we recommendz group buying, until we set up our distributor/aftersales service network in the states and europe. Yeh, from the depths I come.

Well, that speaks small volumes (at many levels) upon which I wouldn't even know where to begin to comment...
 
Hehe,
Philf: I see you are very interested in eBike stuff. Why don't we send you a sample Magic Pie kit for free and you test it out yourself. Then we'll talk about more stuff because Canadian law states : <250W or something. So why don't we send you a 1000W and you try it out on the streets, give us some response on your "attention seeking" or "try-to-keep-it-low". Haha. Yes we need people like you, "professional customers" to help us with our feedback so that we can improve our product functions and quality. Also we need people like you to tell other customers, from a customer's point of view, how it's like to ride a 1000W. See, the problem now is that we're half the world away from you, and communication without demonstration is useless. So unless we can get in touch personally, there is no other way of finding out your exact requirements.
 
GoldenMotor said:
...Canadian law states : <250W or something....

It's <500W. but :twisted: that's why we prefer kits rather than complete E-bikes.

I've run my GM kit for over 4 years now without any BIG problems.
I changed the connectors, the battery, the throttle but have the same controller and my motor is still pulling my 260 lbs.at 45KM/H.
 
GoldenMotor said:
Hehe,
Philf: I see you are very interested in eBike stuff. Why don't we send you a sample Magic Pie kit for free and you test it out yourself.

Considering the position I've put forth, here (and the subtlety of my last post), that's a generous offer. While I'd be more than happy to publicly offer up a completely objective review (and be warned, part of my testing something new always involves opening it up and taking lots of pictures :)), I can't help but wonder if a free sample might be better directed at someone who has had difficulty with you in past. Of course, they may just say "thanks much", and we'll never hear from them again.

Sure, I'll do a review - but I'd also want to pass any sample on to others I know would happily benchmark it against other standards. Where would it sit in some of the modelling software out there, for example?

I only just posted a picture of my newly laced-up GM "Mini Motor" in another forum. Something else I'm trying out right now. The bike behind it is the bike I ride the most. See something wrong with this picture? :)

mini18.jpg
 
MmMmMmmmMM! punch and pie. I WANT SOME PUNCH AND PIE!!!! I hell i would be intrested in doing trials on the pie even at had to pay a discounted price WINK?!?!? Im about to switch bikes as soon as they send me my crate with my new bike in it.
 
i went and read some of the goldenmotor forum, lotta useful info over there. now i see where a lotta these guys were hanging. philf was already well versed on the goldenmotor, and i actually think the controller is what needs deconstruction most. and he can do that. but maybe our young mr yao doesn't wanna have us publishing the insides of the controller.

kinda interesting as to how much the world has changed in 20 years though. how much open source and free and shared networks have formed.

i think it could be the best way for you to see the weaknesses most rapidly in the new controller, so it would shorten your reliability profile back edge. and keep people aware of the new image and 'connectedness' you really do understand i think.

these people are a small group of tinkerers, but the weak spots in the product will come up fastest, allowing you to make the adjustments earlier in the inventory buildup.

this is a brave new world, you have a right to ask some things be kept restricted, especially if your internal processor operating codes end up being compromised and could damage you with respect to those who would copy your equipment.

and i don't think there is reason to believe he could be dishonest anyway with so many of us just as quick to criticize him if he starts sucking up.

it will come out anyway, the guy i bot my goldenmotor from just bot the new controller, so eventually it will come out, but i think sooner is better than later for you, so ask your dad what he thinks. this would be harder on him than you because he is the older generation. but i know how you have to worry about the copycats.

my first complaint would be lack of a real strong torque arm, like the 9 continents includes. it is a very tight fit on their axle, yours is just loose, people can stamp the torque arm opening to the tighter spec easily. that has gotta eaten up more than just my motor on too many newbies. that's how i got it, brand new because the guy i bot it from twisted off the wires when the motor walked out of the forks because he could not put together a good torque arm solution from your old kit. surprised he bot another motor from you, but you got the deal.
 
GoldenMotor said:
no? amuse me...

I'd commented on the bike in the background being my regular ride...

Mini18notes.jpg


I have a total of 4 Golden Motors (including the pictured Mini, which I have yet to ride). In my quest to be able to maintain 40km/h, I switch between the Crystalyte 406 at 40V and a Golden at 60V. The latter is actually more efficient, but the Crystalyte is quieter (though heavier and produces less low end torque). The GM shrieks as certain speeds are crossed through on the way to top speed, though, which is attention-getting.
 
why not run both of them from the same voltage? then switch between controllers or run both at the same time.

is the wawaaah shreik the second harmonic of the crystal oscillator getting amplified by the side plates of the hub as it accelerates? my 9 continents does the same. i have yet to get the goldenmotor running in a frame so will need to see that when it happens.
 
My motor has a slight resonance hum all the way through the rpm curve. Some speeds are louder than others. Compared to my friends X5 my motor is loud. His motor makes a quiet growl nothing more.
 
Dear Golden Motor, I have 3 suggestions for E-bike manufacturers.

1. All front forks should have factory-welded lugs to mount a disc brake caliper
2. more factory-welded accessory mounting points
3. Increase the space in-between the front of the rear tire and the seat post

My reasons are these. Some enthusiasts may not want high-speed, or they simply want to have a lower purchase price and desire to up-grade later. To upgrade to a front disc brake, most people would have to buy a new fork along with the new wheel and caliper. They SHOULD only have to get the wheel and caliper for an EASY upgrade.

Second, there is a lot of creativity in mounting things like custom battery packs. Suppose your affordable base model had 36V of SLA, and after a year, the owner wanted to upgrade to 48V of Lithium. Or think about all the creative ideas concerning mounting front baskets, rear baskets, trailer hitches, water-bottles, baby/small-dog seats, controllers…factory welded mounts don’t have to be threaded, “through-holes” are fine. But more of them would be nice. Unwanted ones can be easily hack-sawed off and filed smooth, but welding/brazing is a problem for most potential customers. Drilling on the frame can cause cracks to develop. The type of mounts I'm talking about are the eyelets in this pic:

_dsc5958.JPG


And as for the stretched frame and extra space. You may be promoting hub-motors, but that’s a good space for batteries as an option. Either as the primary mounting point, or as room for an “extended range” second battery, but here’s why I would really like it.

The RC-drives are gaining in popularity. You should produce a frame that gives your company many options. The hub-motor could be the affordable base model, but when a happy customer wants to upgrade to the higher efficiency of one of the different non-hub drives, your frame and your option catalogue should give them a list of easy “bolt on” choices.

Research the Grinhill one-stage RC drive, Matts very professional 2-stage RC drive, Recumpences boxed 2-stage RC drive, and the various attempts at creating a more robust copy of the Cyclone BB freewheel system, which has proven to be over-priced and weak.

Mass-producing a rear wheel that would accept an “off the shelf” left side freewheel onto which large diameter sprockets could be bolted-to would be sweet.

In this way, a tiny RC-drive could be added. By itself of course, or, also for an otherwise weak “starter hub” bike to have two motors. The smallest possible RC-drive for high range on the flats, and two motors on hills and during acceleration.

The space I’m talking about is where the battery is on this Jiabao E-MTB pic:

Wisper_905se_Sport_Lithium_Electric_Bicycle.jpg
 
Philf,
Haha I didn't notice that. Yeah if Crystalyte is good, then use their motor, we're not jealous or anything though we are in a competitive spot. Our company are now focusing most of our stuff on the Pie and a brushless waterproof 5000W motor. We even RnD'ed an excellent controller for it, which totally is gonna put certain large controller makers out of business. However, we are always offering people chances to do business with us. If you can't beat em, join em. Somehow, I showed my dad how great it is to actually start interacting with people outside the manufacturing circle. This way we'll get a better idea of where we stand and how we should improve. So yeah! thanks guys for your feedback, even if it's scolding or whatever, we appreciate it alot as it knocks us back into shape to forming a new and better GM. :)

Cheers
 
Neither the Crystalyte nor the GM motor is perfect. If the GM was as quiet as the Crystalyte, it would be the winner hands-down from a performance standpoint. But the Crystalyte is so impossibly quiet.

I'm wondering how much of your stuff you manufacture completely in-house, versus assembling from components from other suppliers. The similarities (number of poles, spacing, idiosyncratic noise) between the regular GM motor and the Nine Continent, as well as the resemblance of the GM Mini to the Bafangs I see all over this forum... has me wondering...
 
you can compare the two directly with some calipers and the technical drawing knuckles posted on the little bafang. measure flange to flange and spoke hole center diameter. it may be a ubiquitous design, so that parts are interchangeable among different sources and builders.

kinda forced modularity driven by the need to source the parts from different sources.

phil, can you explain this goldenmotor controller for the 36V from last year? it looks like it has 75V FETs and the other 36V controller had FETs that were NEC 3435 which i think is a 40V35A FET and i think these FETs are the same as in the infineon and the shenzen controller too. is that possible? asking you because i thought you might know. i may clean off the sealant tomorrow to check.

how do you set the LVC with these? both of these have a solder blob along the bottom edge where i would expect the resistor for the LVC bridge to be with the comparator right above to receive the output of the LVC bridge. it has only a 12V and 5V regulator, not a higher voltage regulator like keywin used on the ecrazyman shenzen controller. there is a 150 ohm power resistor, so i figure using 60mA, that it drops 10V from the 44V high of the 36V SLA, and at 30V for the LVC, it is still 20V input to the 12V regulator. that seem right? what do the LEDs on this board do? there are 2, with one next to where the hall signals come on the board and the other LED up by the hiside driver circuitry. what do they do?
 
The controllers I got with my original GM kits last year (and the spare I ordered) are all virtually identical to the original e-crazyman that preceded the infineon. I haven't got one open and in front of me, but the 75V FETS sound right, and the resistors identified as controllering LVC are, I recall, the very same that fechter describes in the thread he started on this puppy: http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4282&hilit=crazyman

The LEDs are described in that thread as well, and were useful enough to warrant bringing them outside the case where they could be seen. The blink codes are one thing I really miss when running the infineon. If the Shenzhen was unhappy, it'd blink out a code to tell you how come.

moddedcontroller.jpg


(Picture from the early days, during my VERY short stint using SLAs and keeping with the "AC Outlet" wiring that came with the kits, though I did upgrade the plug/receptacles before ultimately tossing them and moving to Andersons).
 
I ordered and quickly recieved GM's 'magic' controller and mini rear hub-motor. Now, due to my poor wiring skills, and failed battery (not GM's), I have yet to get them running. I tried to hook up a trigger throttle to it by following russell's directions, but to no avail.

At this point I am willing to drive where ever someone can help me get this thing running. philf, you live 9 hours away from me, and would be willing to make the trip if you can help me. I'm located in Illinois right now.

Right now the contrller has 24.6 volts going into it, it has a two wire throttle with resistors, a switch on the positive battery lead, and the phase and hall wires connected per their diagram. Am I missing something??
 
ekline309 said:
I ordered and quickly recieved GM's 'magic' controller and mini rear hub-motor. Now, due to my poor wiring skills, and failed battery (not GM's), I have yet to get them running. I tried to hook up a trigger throttle to it by following russell's directions, but to no avail.

At this point I am willing to drive where ever someone can help me get this thing running. philf, you live 9 hours away from me, and would be willing to make the trip if you can help me. I'm located in Illinois right now.

Right now the contrller has 24.6 volts going into it, it has a two wire throttle with resistors, a switch on the positive battery lead, and the phase and hall wires connected per their diagram. Am I missing something??

If you followed my drawing on how to adapt the Bladez trigger throttle there should still be 3 connections from the throttle to the controller. You can easily test if the throttle is working by measuring with an ohmmeter from the green throttle signal wire to the added 100 ohm resistor (controller side). The readings should go from 100 ohms to ~3.4K-ohms if it's wired correctly. Alternately you can apply +5v to the added 470 ohm resistor(the end which goes to the controller plug) to ground (the end of the 100 ohm resistor that goes to the controller plug) then measure the voltage from the green wire to ground. You should see from 0.8-1.1V to 4.1-4.4V as the throttle lever is moved from off to full. If the throttle checks out ok then make sure you are getting +5V on the throttle input plug on the controller measured between the red and black pins.

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8026

-R
 
ekline309 said:
philf, you live 9 hours away from me, and would be willing to make the trip if you can help me. I'm located in Illinois right now.

That's a heckuva long way to go to get something working - and there just seems to be something at odds with the concept of the e-bike in running a car at highway speeds for 18 hours in order to get one working :).

Surely, if we have all the details (and maybe some pictures), we can sort you out! I'm wondering if you're going to be underwhelmed with the 24V Mini, to boot. I'm hoping to get enough decent weather to get my 36V version out for a test this weekend (I have family arriving from B.C. on Sunday, so that kinda leaves me tomorrow - and the rest of the long weekend is then shot).
 
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