Good Things to say about BMSBattery

TheBeastie said:
I got everything plugged on except PAS sensor and its not going.
LCD comes up and works but only seems to come up with a 36volt battery on it, I have to recharge my V48 battery.

I haven't been able to make the motor spin under v36 I don't know if its the throttle or something else.

Silly question, but the controller has the option to run without the pedal sensor? Does it need to be changed in the controller setup?
Other yjan that try connecting the pedal sensor to make sure that the controller is working.
 
alsmith said:
TheBeastie said:
I got everything plugged on except PAS sensor and its not going.
LCD comes up and works but only seems to come up with a 36volt battery on it, I have to recharge my V48 battery.

I haven't been able to make the motor spin under v36 I don't know if its the throttle or something else.

Silly question, but the controller has the option to run without the pedal sensor? Does it need to be changed in the controller setup?
Other yjan that try connecting the pedal sensor to make sure that the controller is working.
Yeah I just been reading around on ES and found I need to enter NSA super advanced hackin mode on the LCD display to enable throttle only mode :) , via these instructions.
https://www.bmsbattery.com/attachment.php?id_attachment=52

Once I have finished pushing all the right buttons I think I will be all good, was just panicking a little on that last post..
 
TheBeastie said:
alsmith said:
TheBeastie said:
I got everything plugged on except PAS sensor and its not going.
LCD comes up and works but only seems to come up with a 36volt battery on it, I have to recharge my V48 battery.

I haven't been able to make the motor spin under v36 I don't know if its the throttle or something else.

Silly question, but the controller has the option to run without the pedal sensor? Does it need to be changed in the controller setup?
Other yjan that try connecting the pedal sensor to make sure that the controller is working.
Yeah I just been reading around on ES and found I need to enter NSA super advanced hackin mode on the LCD display to enable throttle only mode :) , via these instructions.
https://www.bmsbattery.com/attachment.php?id_attachment=52

Once I have finished pushing all the right buttons I think I will be all good, was just panicking a little on that last post..

I'm pleased you found a solution. I think we all think the worst at times, but finding it's not so bad is great!
 
I'm getting closer to setting this system up but I plan to start it with just the throttle and see if that works. I've never ridden a pedelec so I wouldn't know w good one from a bad one.
otherdoc
 
Have you tried connecting only the minimum needed to run? Throttle, pedal sensor and battery. If it doesn't work that would support your conclusion. The other bits and pieces may be faulty causing problems.
 
alsmith said:
Have you tried connecting only the minimum needed to run? Throttle, pedal sensor and battery. If it doesn't work that would support your conclusion. The other bits and pieces may be faulty causing problems.
Well I tried a few other odd LCD changes and still nothing... Then I thought your suggestion, unplug stuff I don't need, honestly I thought that has has to be the stupidest idea as the only thing I really don't need are my ebrakes, I unplug my ebrakes and the thing takes off! Via throttle too!
Oh Alsmith I could kiss you! :lol:

I bought the fancy ebrake sensors, these a good because you don't have to replace your original handbrakes and save wires going to the handlebars.

They have a little red LED on them that is suppose to go on only when you pull the brake, out of the two I have installed one of them was on the whole time, until I unplugged it I thought it was the other way around. So as soon as I unplugged my bad ebrake the whole bike worked flawlessly.

I ordered 4 of these ebrakes so I will just replace the bad one, the other one for the front brakes works fine.

Sorry about taking over your thread docnjoj!
 

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You had the brake sensors in the wrong place so that they were working backwards. You have to put them at the brake end, not the lever end. They have little LED lights on them. If the light is on, the controller will be off. Today, I have seen some of these sensors that work the other way round. They were fitted at the lever end and worked. So it seems that there are two types. Whichever ones you had, you have to fit them the other end of the cable.
 
alsmith said:
Well, my both my 15Ah batteries are actually 15Ah whereas my duct tape 20Ah battery was only 12Ah. That's a good start.

when you only get 12aH out of a 36v 20aH battery, it's normally because your controller is set to 48v, so that it cuts off at 38.5v. The BMSBattery KU123 controllers and others have a pair of wires that you plug/unplug to change the voltage. Which controller were you using?
 
d8veh said:
You had the brake sensors in the wrong place so that they were working backwards. You have to put them at the brake end, not the lever end. They have little LED lights on them. If the light is on, the controller will be off. Today, I have seen some of these sensors that work the other way round. They were fitted at the lever end and worked. So it seems that there are two types. Whichever ones you had, you have to fit them the other end of the cable.


One would think that the light would face towards the lever so the rider could see it when it is on.?
otherDoc
 
d8veh said:
alsmith said:
Well, my both my 15Ah batteries are actually 15Ah whereas my duct tape 20Ah battery was only 12Ah. That's a good start.

when you only get 12aH out of a 36v 20aH battery, it's normally because your controller is set to 48v, so that it cuts off at 38.5v. The BMSBattery KU123 controllers and others have a pair of wires that you plug/unplug to change the voltage. Which controller were you using?

Lyen 18FET. The voltage cut-off was tried at 20V. It was a 12AH battery after a few ways of testing.
Prior to that I used it with a 36V powerbyke direct drive motor. It gave about 2/3 rds of the expected range.
I even wired the battery directly to the bike bypassing the BMS.
It ended up with me stripping the pack, repairing some of the crap spaghetti wiring, with Amberwolfs help. It was still 12Ah.
 
docnjoj said:
d8veh said:
You had the brake sensors in the wrong place so that they were working backwards. You have to put them at the brake end, not the lever end. They have little LED lights on them. If the light is on, the controller will be off. Today, I have seen some of these sensors that work the other way round. They were fitted at the lever end and worked. So it seems that there are two types. Whichever ones you had, you have to fit them the other end of the cable.


One would think that the light would face towards the lever so the rider could see it when it is on.?
otherDoc
The two brakes are opposite each other, so the LEDs will face both ways. You have to know to look at them.
 
Thanks d8veh! I'll actually look at the instructions first. :oops:
otherDoc
 
docnjoj said:
I'm getting closer to setting this system up but I plan to start it with just the throttle and see if that works. I've never ridden a pedelec so I wouldn't know w good one from a bad one.
otherdoc
Just letting you know that for throttle to work on mine I had to set P4=0 in the advanced LCD panel mode settings.
 
TheBeastie said:
docnjoj said:
I'm getting closer to setting this system up but I plan to start it with just the throttle and see if that works. I've never ridden a pedelec so I wouldn't know w good one from a bad one.
otherdoc
Just letting you know that for throttle to work on mine I had to set P4=0 in the advanced LCD panel mode settings.
Thanks Beastie. I will try it with just the throttle, screen, and controller the first rainy day we get here.
otherDoc
 
Yep, you can totally run it without PAS. I advise that if you do order a kit, buy the 10 pole or higher PAS sensor anyway since its only like $3 extra, and you can always have the option of using it and even setting max speed 25km/h in the LCD settings and being completely legal.

There is an interesting setting you get where you can have cruise control + pedal assist, seems to be a nice setting because you can casually pedal a bit to aid and even just keep your legs happy with a bit of movement and then stop pedaling and it keeps going anyway.
Sometime tells me that this mode makes good efficiency.

Also since I put my P1=140 I think I have got more kms/Ah.
 
What is the advantage using the 10 poles pas?

Also, my default P1 is four digits 1214. So is 0140 for your case?

Pat
 
There was a guy on another thread saying 4 or 6 pole pas sensor was crappy and unreliable. I have 10 pole pas and it works pretty good.
As far as I know if you got a Bafang CST motor you want p1 to equal 140 in the LCD settings. I think mine only got 3 digits, some seem to be programmed a bit differently, some have pedal assit number up to 6, mine only goes up to 5.
 
I ordered a 48volt 16 cell 12 amp from them and they told me there was a problem with security, and then they wanted more money for shipping, then the battery went to Hong Kong and was sent back for shipping problems. Finally I just got a refund for the battery after 3+ weeks waiting for a tracking # of a battery that might not have ever been shipped at all. They do answer your emails if you are nice and spend money with them but can't tell you if your battery is made, shipped, tracking #, or why they can't get the product to you. I am getting my batteries from Headway and will not use BMS battery for anything unless it is C.O.D! I spent hours on the computer with them over a $450 battery, never again!!
 
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