GT i-drive 2.0 Build

[GCinDC]

and speaking of the batteries, USPS says they were delivered yesterday at 10:30AM, but they weren't in front of the door! there have been a lot of thefts in the 'hood lately, but i've never had something stolen from the door. i'm about to email the neighbors...

also, quite mysteriously, i got home after 6 mile commute, CA showing 5+Ah used and each cell was sitting happy at 3.7V... So perhaps it's not dead. Maybe bringing it inside to work on over the weekend, and spoon-feeding it chicken soup, revived its spirits...

also, my anderson woes are not over. had to replace a phase connection this morning on the side of the road. the crimp was lousy! when trying to crack housings apart, the crimp slid off. anyway, it's time for 4mm gold bullet connectors i think. or soldering them!

 

[chroot]

Oh no, Hope it's not stolen!! Lets call USPS again and Have them double check. It can be wrong information output.

About the brake, I was gonna buy a bigger disc 183MM something with caliper avid bb7 and move my 160MM to the rear
brake mount. However I spoke with Justin @ebikes.ca and here his comment. Look like I am going copy GCinDC's style using disc brake in front and V-Brake in rear. Sighs!

yes we have seen this happen before. The aluminum diecasting is just not up to snuff for really strong torques like that on the threaded shoulder. It's not that the threads will strip, but the entire shoulder will shear off.

-Justin

 

[andreym]

and speaking of the batteries, USPS says they were delivered yesterday at 10:30AM, but they weren't in front of the door! there have been a lot of thefts in the 'hood lately, but i've never had something stolen from the door. i'm about to email the neighbors...

also, quite mysteriously, i got home after 6 mile commute, CA showing 5+Ah used and each cell was sitting happy at 3.7V... So perhaps it's not dead. Maybe bringing it inside to work on over the weekend, and spoon-feeding it chicken soup, revived its spirits...

also, my anderson woes are not over. had to replace a phase connection this morning on the side of the road. the crimp was lousy! when trying to crack housings apart, the crimp slid off. anyway, it's time for 4mm gold bullet connectors i think. or soldering them!

better use 5.5mm bullets, they are super strong and best for phase currents
mine does not even become warm with up to 120amps phase currents
http://hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=9763

 

[dbaker]

Is Hudson Trail your LBS? Seemed like you had great luck before at your LBS

You definitely need to understand how to replace pads in your front caliper. I have Hayes and their pads can be replaced without removing the wheel or caliper by grabbing a pad tab with a pair of pliers and pulling the pad out. Usually have to adjust caliper/disc spacing/alignment once the new pads are in place to minimize rubbing on rotor.

Bullets are cheap! Get the same ones that come on your battery packs. You could even get creative and replicate the multiplug Anderson system with the bullets. You would have to craft a block that would hold them together (cast epoxy?).

If your battery is now performing much better consider that perhaps your charging plug is not getting to all cells. There might be a bad/broken connection that is not getting all cells fully charged.

 

[knoxie]

Hi G

Hoping you get your new batteries soon and that nobody has walked off with them? sounds like your pack is fine though from what you are saying? thats what mine drops to half full as well? maybe a connection issue, the Andersons aren't perfect and bullets might be a better option if you can get some decent ones, saves having to cut them off the battery as well.

Glad you are getting your brakes sorted too, I like to have mine well adjusted stopping is just as important as going in my book :lol: I have never had discs on any of my ebikes always used good quality v brakes and pads, they can be quite awesome brakes if you adjust them properly and keep the rims in good shape, cheap discs brakes suck big time but quality ones like Juicy are great.

Looking at you weather in DC its looking a lot nicer than it is here, the temperature is dropping so fast here, its getting so cold on the bike now its almost time for the full face helmet again!!

Good luck with the batteries.. mine are much happier if you keep them warm, they dont like the cold

Knoxie

and speaking of the batteries, USPS says they were delivered yesterday at 10:30AM, but they weren't in front of the door! there have been a lot of thefts in the 'hood lately, but i've never had something stolen from the door. i'm about to email the neighbors...

also, quite mysteriously, i got home after 6 mile commute, CA showing 5+Ah used and each cell was sitting happy at 3.7V... So perhaps it's not dead. Maybe bringing it inside to work on over the weekend, and spoon-feeding it chicken soup, revived its spirits...

also, my anderson woes are not over. had to replace a phase connection this morning on the side of the road. the crimp was lousy! when trying to crack housings apart, the crimp slid off. anyway, it's time for 4mm gold bullet connectors i think. or soldering them!

 

[GCinDC]

i emailed three neighbors; they didn't know anything. the fourth brought them over this evening! a day late, but nevermind...

i've been working with the BM6's trying to get some decent video of why i've had trouble with them. i think banging around, they were set to go off at 3.7 volts, so no wonder i heard them so early in my ride. i'm coming to the conclusion that i'm an idiot and should reserve from saying anything to anyone, because i'm probably wrong.

4mm bullets on the way (my stock phase wires are so tiny...)

fingers crossed for when i inspect the packs!

 

[chroot]

Get the LVC smd board will save your neck if you cant hear due annoy outside noisy traffic or windy whatever.

At least, you got your batteries whew! BTW, I need ask you a question. Does your 9c motor have Teflon on the phase wires? I assume you have been encountered phase wire burn out due high ampere cause too hot on the phase wires?

 

[GCinDC]

Does your 9c motor have Teflon on the phase wires? I assume you have been encountered phase wire burn out due high ampere cause too hot on the phase wires?

hey chroot. yes, my 9c has the 'stock' teflon phase wires. they're very thin! so far no burn out, and since i made it through the hot summer at 45A, i don't expect to have problems this winter at 30A. although, i'm probably cursing myself by saying so...

the new lipos are beautiful (although i did regret not buying the 45-90C nanos for just $10 more! ). anyway, all balanced at 3.8V. i could throw them in place now, but i think i'll wait a bit. i want to test my current pack a bit more to see what real range i do have before putting them to use in the portable vacuum cleaner, rideon tractor, electric toothbrush, etc.

and sadly, my speedo on the CA died. only reads 0mph all the time. it was events like this that prevented me from having a good reading of my lipo pack, btw. lyen gave me some links to pursue.

 

[chroot]

OK, thanks - Look like I am going have Teflon install on my 9c's phase wires soon! I don't want burn the phase wire LOL


Probably your Lyen controller got badly damaged cause CA unable read speedo? If so, You might want get 18fets controller from Lyen again.

 

[velias]

Why not try a Kelly controller? Though they are big and expensive, aren't they more reliable and made for high power applications ? They are sealed up and you can't really fiddle with them to repair them as easily, but i've never had mine fail (though i'm not running at 72 volts) Plus they have a Diagnostic Code LED that helps with troubleshooting bad connections etc.
I've been using one for a couple of years after my cheap crystalyte controller started screwing up and capacitors starting breaking off inside and never had a problem again.

 

[GCinDC]

Is Hudson Trail your LBS? Seemed like you had great luck before at your LBS

there were excellent mechanics there over the summer. a lot of turnover perhaps.

Bullets are cheap! Get the same ones that come on your battery packs. You could even get creative and replicate the multiplug Anderson system with the bullets. You would have to craft a block that would hold them together (cast epoxy?).

got the cast epoxy. but tell me, how do you parallel your packs with these? this was my stumbling block before. if you have two 5Ah packs, how to parallel the power leads to make a 10Ah pack? make a 2-1 connector? that's the only thing i can think of, short of stripping one pack to solder to the other's lead...

If your battery is now performing much better consider that perhaps your charging plug is not getting to all cells. There might be a bad/broken connection that is not getting all cells fully charged.

entirely possible.

i'm starting to feel like it's a time for wholesale re-wiring...

as for the kelly, i'd love one of those! always seemed out of my price-range. and the controller hasn't been the weak link, until the one failure....

 

[andreym]

Hi Greg,

I wonder - how long is your rear shock?
asking because got 165mm from ebay and tryed to fit in my next e-bike (first version of i-drive btw) and discovered that rear suspension will accept even 180mm while the stock one was 165(the reason i got the same length from e-bay)
and i`m thinkin now if i could put there like 175 or 180mm and will it help in expanding the rear suspension travel?

 

[GCinDC]

how long is your rear shock?

just went to look but it doesn't say. here's a pic in case that helps:

i'd be happy to measure, but from where to where?

how's Fas7r? you're his buddy, right?

 

[andreym]

measure it from between the centers of the holes (or center of bolts)
but it looks like it`s 165mm - the same as mine size. but try to unscrew one of the sides and i bet you`ll se that the travel could be even more!
btw - what is your feeling - do you have enough rear weel travel to ride over bumps?
Does anybody tryed to put longer shock to extend the travel?

yes - Fas_r7 is a friend of mine, I still had no time to post some funny stuff about his Ligerad (hope i`ll do that soon)

 

[GCinDC]

what is your feeling - do you have enough rear weel travel to ride over bumps?

i'm happy there is not more sag when i get on. i'm very happy with degree of rear suspension. but when it's very soft, < 200psi?, pedaling just feels like bouncing up and down. i pumped it up recently to 230psi and it improved pedaling response. it's nice soft, since i don't pedal that much... and i'm careful what i go over anyway, since i trashed my last rim. right now my tire is 60psi, so pretty hard.

you think if you add a longer shock it will increase travel? i have no idea!

is moscow getting cold and dark? :lol:

 

[andreym]

Actually here in Moscow is quite warm now - about +10 degrees but soon it`ll be much cooler and snowy ))
but riding season is almost over as for me... I`m not going to ride when snow - but there will be the time for new build
Right now I`m thinkin about the batteries for GT and their placement...
It looks like i`m going to go your route - i mean 20s in 5s packs (the cheapest per wh nano-packs from HK)

 

[full-throttle]

Andrey,

You're right - there's a longer shock for the older i-drives that increase the travel from 4.6" to 5.4"
I've got one

I'd have to double check, but pretty sure that the standard shock is 6.5" (165mm) eye to eye with 1.5" stroke and the extended one is 6.75" (175mm) / 1.75" stroke

 

[chroot]

I happened curious, I started hunting the GT bike on craiglist or ebay. I find so ridiculous price to sell the used GT bike.

Even they are very old and they sell so expensive WOW!

 

[GCinDC]

I'm DONE with ANDERSONS!

At least for some things. Maybe it's me, who knows, but I'm done. As I started to replace another set of powerpoles last night, I said, screw it! I rarely remove the controller so why not butt/solder the phase wires? At least I don't have to replace them... so here's a pic before shrink tubing the last butt/solder joint:

The solder hardly took up on the wires of the motor side. I need to start using that soldering primer, what's it called? I was getting hard on myself. Started thinking I should rename my avatar to HALF-ASS.

Time to clean up my act.

I'd been plannning to toss the new lipos in place of the old, but I'll be damned if I'm going to continue replacing andersons every other day. So I'm thinking of:

A. Getting the LVC/HVC boards & some meanwells' to bulk charge, but:
- can i charge at home/work unattended if i have HVC protection?
- $100 for the chargers and that's just for one set.. (unless i combine w/ a laptop type charger)
- 1 month wait while it's shipped?
- $60 for four of geoff's SMD boards?

B. Getting a ton of bullets to build new 8x charge/dishcarge plugs, but:
- 4mm or 6mm
- are they hard to solder?
- how do the housings work?
- order from HK and wait a week or more or pay through the nose for local?
- what if my icharger blows? a replacement would be $150...

a lot of soul-searching here... :lol:

couple vids coming up, as soon as audioswap is done. 8)

 

[grindz145]

Right on Greg. Those power poles are not up to the task. Any connector adds resistance you don't need.

Soldering primer = flux?

If you have the meanwells setup correctly, and you have HVC, you can pretty safely charge unattended. I like to have thermal protection as well just to be safe.

 

[chroot]

Yes, You can unattended while the charge at your home or work with the little HVC boards mount on the meanwell.

It works like charm.

for geoff's SMD lvc boards are a MUST, If you dont want hassle with the BM6 go off annoyed you big time. SMD LVC boards
just trigger cut off so you will know one of cell in LiPo pack hit 3v. It's so quiet no more annoy or paranoid checking the low voltage each cell. Peace mind! it also saving your butt big time.

You could get LVC from Gary but I don't want hassle the soldering job assemble the LVC boards instead I am getting
from Geoff's preassembled SMD lvc boards.

1 month shipped? What are you talk about. I recieved lvc boards from gary like 1 week anyways for Meanwell charger
and You can just get it from ebay. They are cost about between $32-70.

I just try avoid Gary's product because YOU will need do assemble and soldering job. I rather want pre-assembled because I do not have time do soldering job for 1-2 hours. I am so busy lately work at UPS + seniority and my body wore out every after work. ugh!

What's wrong with your icharger and your icharger KICKASS so stick with it for now?

PS. Oh I forgot ask a question, I looked your phase wires seems doesnt have teflon. Aren't they?

I'm DONE with ANDERSONS!
A. Getting the LVC/HVC boards & some meanwells' to bulk charge, but:
- can i charge at home/work unattended if i have HVC protection?
- $100 for the chargers and that's just for one set.. (unless i combine w/ a laptop type charger)
- 1 month wait while it's shipped?
- $60 for four of geoff's SMD boards?

 

[GCinDC]

your phase wires seems doesnt have teflon. Aren't they?

i don't know! i thought i read somewhere that the stock ones ARE teflon. somehow i got that in my head. maybe i'm wrong... i have no idea how those little wires carry that much current!

i need to go read about the SMD boards again... if they balance, i can just rely on whole pack voltage...

yesterday's commutes:
audio only working for me now at 480. second one better. thought the music on this would be funny, but it annoys me now. :lol:
[youtube]MqRvx1XcwtQ[/youtube]

off-road at 1:00, but slow.. can't afford to ruin another wheel! (and i was a bit wobbly after..)
[youtube]8665lvGTH-A[/youtube]

 

[chroot]

Hi again,

FYI, SMD lvc boards does not balance each other and Yes, You would need read whole LVC discussion maybe it will give you better picture than my description or information given to you. Anyways OK I was like surprised 9c phase wires handled so much ampere :lol:

 

[knoxie]

?

Been using powerpoles for years with no problems at all, sometimes it is necessary to have connections it cant be avoided, makes things simple keep things safer etc etc, Gregs problems with the powerpoles has been that he has run them way past their rated capacity, go to their website and read the spec on them.

I agree if you can direct solder a connection without compromising usability of your system it is the best way forward but a properly rated connector is just fine if you keep it within its limits, I have pushed 40A @ 48V down mine for years with no melting, they get mildly warm at most just a couple of watts maybe.

Good luck with the rest of the build Greg.

Knoxie

Right on Greg. Those power poles are not up to the task. Any connector adds resistance you don't need.

Soldering primer = flux?

If you have the meanwells setup correctly, and you have HVC, you can pretty safely charge unattended. I like to have thermal protection as well just to be safe.

 

[GCinDC]

woke up thinking i should bulk charge... more later.

in the meantime, i had a nice lunchtime ride yesterday:

working on a higher def one for later, but just the trip highlights (music at 480 now):
[youtube]-RVX3wvqOYU[/youtube]