Hall Sensors'b'Gone

The thunderstorm hit a short time after the above, while I was working on getting the USB serial cable working again, so I didn't get anything else done today. Its still lightly sprinkling occasionally now, but unlikely to do much more tonight. Might do more tomorrow, but I'd guess it's not going to be an intense storm like this one was, so I can likely keep testing thru any rain that comes.

The USB cable I have to fix; since it's housing just snaps together it's convenient for wiring things, but it's hard on the actual USB plug itself--it can wiggle relative to the PCB, and it has, so it has begun pulling the contacts out of the plug from the back, wihich means they no longer always reach the USB plug contacts in the laptop itself.

Simple solution is to solder a short usb cable to the PCB in place of the connector, so no unusual stress on that part.
 
As a test, I disconnected the throttle connector completely, and I still get 0.94v across SFOC's throttle signal and ground pins.

With the throttle still not connected to SFOC, the throttle itself reads 1.33v minimum, and 3.64v maximum. Strange, because it read 0.89 to 4.5v before, with teh same DMM (Extech).
Not sure how many tangibles can be had from readings like this. On the one side there is a magnet and a gauss meter (hall sensor) with some load/circuit dependent characteristics (load being the DMM, the 500k weak pull-down resistor and the SFOC ADC). On the other side, there is a capacitor being switched at several kHz by the SFOC ADC.
Anyway, it seems you have found settings that work. Partly why Stats were introduced in the first place, and a check that should probably be mentioned in the manual.

It will stop once the back wheels roll down and just past the gutter, where the street rises again.
:) Reminds me of an old Beetle that would sometimes crawl some meter on its own when parked, depending on weather.

Shutdown during cruise
There is an 85% overshoot (Iq vs Iq_ref). All phase current maxes are miles away from Max IqRef, when they should be a snug fit. (Power down is set to activate at 486 A.) MF=0.1 is likely too weak, as indicated by earlier plots. While MF=1.0 is found to be unnecessarily aggressive, the new S&S sheet default will likely corrrespond to MF=0.5 or thereabouts (have not changed this yet, to not mess up your reference frame).

--

I was able to reproduce what you did with manually forcing the wheel backwards in standby mode. Indeed in this mode it's so slow in responding to the bemf being introduced by the external force that it actually does take a humanly perceptable time window to wind it down. Kudos to your excellent and meticulous testing.

It's now faster, and less resistance when being forced forward (note that the resistance in standby mode does not mean it consumes power, as would be the case with some active holding torque). Also, the slightest flick of the throttle puts it back in drive mode, which is the same as before. Never a need to fight it. Update in the mail, including 1 minute Stats saving rate.

I would like to try to get the SFOC5 to start the trike. I'll be offering some updates later on if you care to experiment with this.
 
incememed said:
Not sure how many tangibles can be had from readings like this. On the one side there is a magnet and a gauss meter (hall sensor) with some load/circuit dependent characteristics (load being the DMM, the 500k weak pull-down resistor and the SFOC ADC). On the other side, there is a capacitor being switched at several kHz by the SFOC ADC.
Thanks--it's helpful to know the basic characteristics of the input pin. :) If the capacitor (sampling?) is switched (at the sampling rate?) then that .94v on the unconnected SFOC input pin is just a remainder of the floating voltage left behind by the throttle input? So it would fall over time to 0v, if so.

The part I found odd was that the actual throttle, not connected to the SFOC, had a different voltage output range than it started with. I was incorrect in saying it went up to 4.5v (3.7v was it's max in the earliest stats sheet I sent you with initial values; I don't know where I got 4.5v from), but it did used to go down to 0.89v when off. So...that's still odd.


Partly why Stats were introduced in the first place, and a check that should probably be mentioned in the manual.
Probably. :) I can write something up for that if you want.

:) Reminds me of an old Beetle that would sometimes crawl some meter on its own when parked, depending on weather.

Sticky clutch? Or throttle/carb?


I had an issue vaguely similar to this once on a previous trike, Delta Tripper, which was MUCH lighter and smaller, with a geared hub. But it turned out to be a connection issue in the throttle, where sometimes the voltage would creep up on the controller side until it began very very slowly driving the motor. It didn't move with me on it under these conditions, just the trike by itself. :) A similar issue happened on a DD hub version of DayGlo Avenger (a more normal bicycle), which took me ages to figure out as I'd never seen or heard of anything like that yet (except in cars). :oops:





Shutdown during cruise
There is an 85% overshoot (Iq vs Iq_ref). All phase current maxes are miles away from Max IqRef, when they should be a snug fit. (Power down is set to activate at 486 A.) MF=0.1 is likely too weak, as indicated by earlier plots. While MF=1.0 is found to be unnecessarily aggressive, the new S&S sheet default will likely corrrespond to MF=0.5 or thereabouts (have not changed this yet, to not mess up your reference frame).

It's ok to change it if you like; we'll both know there's a difference.

For now, I'll start out with MF=0.5 for the new FW version testing, and see what happens.



I was able to reproduce what you did with manually forcing the wheel backwards in standby mode. Indeed in this mode it's so slow in responding to the bemf being introduced by the external force that it actually does take a humanly perceptable time window to wind it down. Kudos to your excellent and meticulous testing
.

I don't exactly use things (or think) in the same way everyone else does, so I tend to find things no one else would. :) That also means that most of the time, what I find that way won't be a problem for anyone else, or at least not the vast majority of users, but I report all the stuff anyway. (even those things I know aren't going to be fixed, when I've done beta testing for large companies with narrow windows between beta start and marketing-determined release dates).



It's now faster, and less resistance when being forced forward (note that the resistance in standby mode does not mean it consumes power, as would be the case with some active holding torque). Also, the slightest flick of the throttle puts it back in drive mode, which is the same as before. Never a need to fight it.

I didn't see any current draw on the CA (though that only shows down to hundredths of an amp on my main screen; I should really observe it on the regen screen, and note/compare the fwd and rev Ah which are more digits)...but the resistance is quite severe; as I said, it's equivalent to all the phase wires shorted, at least.

Why does there have to be any resistance at all, when in standby? So that it generates a counter voltage (BEMF) for the SFOC to detect and wake up?

FWIW, in a non-pedalled bike or vehicle, this would be completely ok, and actually even a benefit (additional resistance against rolling down a slope, like rolling backwards waiting at an intersection where they tend to slope up toward the center).

But in one that has to be able to be pedalled, with the system on, it's a potential problem, the seriousness of which would depend on the gearing, ability of the person to pedal, weight of the whole thing, and slope it's on, at minimum. Mine is geared low enough I can overcome it with just the trike; I'm not sure how well I could do it with a heavy load or up a slight slope, repeatedly on a trip.

(My pedals are honestly really an emergency backup system to let me get home should the whole electric system fail...but I'd be using it likely at the lowest gearing, that would go around 1MPH at the rate I could sustain for any length of time, and even that wouldn't be for any great distance before I had to stop and rest a while before continuing.

I "pedal" all the time I'm riding with the motors, but it is more for keeping my joints in motion so they don't hurt as much once I get off the trike than anything else; the highest gear might let me reach 10MPH or so with pedals, so there's not really any input from me past that point to the wheel. I'd like to add gears to the system to fix that, like another IGH in series, but as I can't pedal on my own without a motor at those speeds anyway, I haven't made it a priority over other work to do on it or other projects. )



Update in the mail, including 1 minute Stats saving rate.
I'll get that installed as soon as I fix the USB end of the cable, should be shortly. (have been cleaning up after the storm last night; quite a mess around the neighborhood).


I would like to try to get the SFOC5 to start the trike. I'll be offering some updates later on if you care to experiment with this.
If you mean start from a complete stop, definitely. :)

But I'm game for testing just about anything you want to try on it, within it's (and my) capabilities.
 
Nothing is ever simple....

USB-serial adapter failed (only gets "device descriptor failed" error now), even when I removed the (bent) connector and used a cutoff USB cable (from a dead keyboard), so I went with the next workable solution, using the GrinTech adapter with the TRS phono jack output.

Since it doesn't have 5V available, I used a cutoff USB cable from a dead keyboard to grab 5v from a different port (rather than hacking into the casing of the GrinTech adapter, which is molded). Used the female end of a short headphone extension cable plus that USB cable end to splice into the DB9 I'd previously had on the now-dead supplied USB-serial adpater. So I just plug in the USB end for 5v into one port, the Grin USB into another, then the Grin TRS into the headphone jack, and then connect the DB9 to the SFOC's DB9, and back in business.



Powerup stats from just now (don't remember if they're from last night or today; so many things going on earlier I don't remember if I powered on the trike before now or not). Either way they aren't valid results. Don't think it's comm errors becaue the 1234 came thru fine, and it's the right number of bytes, etc. Repeated connections get the same exact number string, as well. Unlikely to be comm error.
12 34 7F FF 00 00 7F FF 00 00 00 00 AE 1F 00 00 02 72 01 97 03 9B FD 9B 02 4C 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

however, trying to update with the latest firmware, I get
Code:
Initiating write...
      Searching for bl . . . . The hardware detected a framing error.
      Found dsPIC30F4013 fw ver. 0.0.0
      Wrong pic detected(2/2)/selected(14/E), aborting
      Tx 4 bytes / Rx 3 bytes / 2.1s
      Write failed
the first time, and
Code:
Initiating write...
      Searching for bl . . . . . . (discarded null byte) 
      Found dsPIC33FJ256MC510 fw ver. 7.0.0
      Wrong pic detected(198/C6)/selected(14/E), aborting
      Tx 6 bytes / Rx 4 bytes / 2.8s
      Write failed
the second,
and
Code:
Initiating write...
      Searching for bl . . . . The hardware detected a framing error.
      Found PIC18F2523 fw ver. 4.0.0
      Wrong pic detected(294/126)/selected(14/E), aborting
      Tx 4 bytes / Rx 3 bytes / 2.1s
      Write failed

the third, so something is not happening correctly. Ds30loadergui is setup correctly per the manual, and I even cleared it's settings and reset them, same results (well, different results each time, but not the right ones ever).


I guess I'll see what other USB-serial adapters I have that are TTL 5v output, and see what results I get with those.
 
Ok, some things *are* easy.

I have two of the Grin USB serial TTL adapters, so I tried the second one and it works. (though it still gets exactly the same powerup stats before I tried flashing, so....there's no error receiving those at least, though they arent' valid results.

Firwmare update worked with this cable

Code:
Initiating write...
      Searching for bl . . . . . . . 
      Found dsPIC30F4011 fw ver. 4.0.3
      Waiting for the boot loader to be ready...ok
      Parsing hexfile...
            File timestamp: 8/9/2018 11:34:46 AM
            Opening hexfile...ok
            Validating hexfile...ok
            Hex file successfully parsed
      Writing flash....ok
      Tx 20.2kB / Rx 207 bytes / 15.9s
      Write successfully completed

Will now start testing, since it says it doesn't need to reupload settings then it should be at MF=0.1 IIRC.
 
Post update testing at MF=0.1

Offground checks show it is much less resistance to manually spinning the wheel, but there's still a lot. Instead of all three phases shorted, it feels like only two, if that helps describe it.

I can't reproduce the reverse-self-rotation in the same way now; it does still appear to do it, but I can relatively easily grab the tire and stop it, and it doesn't resume unless I repeat the manual reverse spin to initiate it.

Then a test ride around the neighborhood, mostly acceleration runs up and down the street, to check for stutter/shudder and other issues, and see if acceleration is improved.

Ride stats:
12 34 00 00 01 78 36 7B 5D 7D 02 7A 18 EC 19 D1 5A EF 55 F5 60 5C B8 89 5B 73 14 1C 62 C1 13 20 2C 36 36 6C

CA stats
139Amax (I saw a peak of 143A on the fastest peak speed run).
0Amin
50.2vmin
56.0vrest


SFOC RPM seems off; CA max speed was about 23MPH on the fastest peak. I did hear the wheel scrub/slip once during acceleration around a corner, but I doubt it would've reached over 600RPM that quickly (probably wasn't much above 10MPH at that moment, but was at full throttle), and if it had I think I'd've felt the momentum transfer when the tire grabbed again.


It might be a little faster in lowspeed acceleration; hard to say. Had some troulbe with the stutter/shudder in more than half of startups. The faster I'm already going the less of an issue, but I could get the stutter even from around 5-6MPH without quite being at WOT. At WOT, I could get it even around 8MPH.

Occasionally but not reproducibly, I get a lesser version of the stutter, the "washboard" effect, which usually holds amplitude even if I increase or decrease the throttle, unless I just let it drop to zero and then reapply throttle. Kind of like it gets out of sync, and doing that lets it resync.

The regular stutter will generally go away if I simply back off throttle and keep applying the lower level until I'm faster than the stutter starts at.

A couple of times, I was at a low enough speed that I couldn't back off throttle enough without removing demand entirely, and the trike would slow down instead of accelerating, and I couldn't accelerate at all until I applied pedals. (didn't use the othe rmotor at all for this run)


The unreproducible very loud grinding sound with severe momentary braking-effect occured once during the run, at 15.5MPH (happened to be watching and counting for acceleration time). Don't know what the other stats were at that moment.


Watching the CA Amax value during an acceleration run starting with zeroed peaks, the max I get up to 20MPH is about 110-120A. Above 20MPH it rapidly goes up to 130-140A or more (and acceleration goes up with it, too fast to give a time value between 20MPH and 23MPH.

(I wish I had a place I could safely test just holding WOT to max speed, since brakes on this aren't sufficient to quickly slow down from that, most likely, without just locking up the front wheel and skidding it). Would be interesting to see the acceleration rate, and probably scary.



Testing at MF=0.5 is next.
 
ride stats
12 34 00 00 00 00 37 48 4E 64 02 4B 18 D9 19 88 39 F9 36 A7 36 E1 E9 CE 39 5F 14 A9 60 8F 13 60 27 3E 34 66
mf0.5 ride stats 080918 1.png
CA stats

55.6vstart
50.7vmin
55.2vrest
119amax
0amin


Similar to MF0.1 except hiss is louder, vibration stronger, while out of standby.

Ride about the same, except that I didn't get any stutters or shudders or bangs. Part if that is probably me unconsciously learning the throttle I can pus h it to and avoiding it, but most of it appears to be the setting itself.

Acceleration feels a bit quicker, but it may simply be from the easier startups not interfering with the acceleration.

I'll do more testing of this setting after lunch.



Oh, BTW, the first time I tried to get the powerup stats, I got this instead:

F0 0F F0 0F 03 5B 16 D3 00 F1 03 EA 1D 73 0B 8F 05 AA 16 F3 14 1E 1B 44
75 D9 02 A8 05 90 27 A4 02 5A 00 03 18 75 17 B4 17 53 17 23 00 33 79 28
05 93 FE 14 3B 71 CE D8 2D A7 E7 1A 17 1F 01 7B 00 06 00 00 F0 0F

in case it's helpful to anything.

Worked fine the second time.
 
So...I have a bit of grinding and welding to do tomorrow--broke the inboard axle on the rightside motor. :(

Short story long:

During the last ride when coming back into the driveway, the right tire sounded like it was rubbing on the frame, which should be impossible, so I stopped and looked at it, no broken spokes, no wiggle, etc. Chalked it up to imagination since i couldn't make it happen again. Went inside to report the ride stuff (previous post), and forgot about it.

Got the yard ready for the storm (which had been shaping up to be as bad as yesterday's), then I moved the trike over to where the brightest yard lights would shine on the bottom of it laying on it's side, so I could switch from the PP45s to the SB50 for battery power to the SFOC, and to connect the motor temperature sensor. Rolled the trike on it's side, and then I could feel the lateral wiggle of the wheel. :(

I don't know exactly when it happened, but my guess is during one of those BANGs I heard when the controller went into shutdown...the braking it caused, while very very short, was extreme, probably like locked rotor extreme, and given the stresses these axles have already seen from weight and impacts on potholes/etc., could probably have been the last straw.

Anyway, I can fix it the same way I fixed the one on the other side, grinding a slot into the axle shoulder, then putting the axle stub down in that and welding it in good and solid.



Some stats info:

ride around yard to move trike under lights to do wiring
12 34 00 00 00 00 38 A5 39 1B 00 02 18 B7 19 23 21 B8 23 BE 45 35 CB 8B 07 7F 14 57 16 F9 02 80 00 05 32 85
080918 move across yard.png

First I took the PP45s off the SFOC battery power wires, taking off the shells, then prying open the crimp carefully enough to just pull them off the wires. Then I cut a pair of SB50 contacts off of some very short 8g wires left off some powerchair stuff, leaving 1cm of wire sticking out the back of the contacts, and pulled the insulation off. Then I lightly spread the wires just a little bit on each, and pushed them together to interlace the strands, "crimped" them together as tightly as I could, then soldered them. (crimping ring lugs would be better, but don't have any). Then inserted the contacts into the SB50 housing. This gives a good solid connection, without extending the wire length, as I don't have a crimper for the SB50 contacts.

Now I plugged this into the SB50 I had used for the charger port, which has twin 10g wires to the "star" point that the shunts and controllers all wire to. So if there was any significant voltage drop in this connection (whcih I couldn't detect in minimal load tests before), there shouldn't be now. :)

Then I took the SB50 and a foot of wire off the charger's output, and put those PP45s taken off the SFOC onto the charger, and plugged them into the PP45 port I had had the SFOC plugged into previously.


Next up was connecting the motor temperature sensor (KTY83-110). I'd already determined I have to disconnect the ground wire on the Grinfineon-controller-side of the hall wires to use it, or else it will be shorted out, or short out the SFOC's 5v, etc. So I did that; just cut it, and left a bare 1/4" or so on the end of the Grinfineon side, so I can twist them together to use it if I have to switch to the GF from teh SFOC on a ride for any reason. The motor side of ground I wired up to the SFOC motor temperature sensor input, and the motor thermal sensor I wired up to the SFOC 5v. (to preserve any "polarity" the sensor might have, as I couldn't remember at the time if it was just resistive or not).


Anyway, after wirng motor temp sensor and bigger sb50 power, just offground test to confirm operation:
12 34 60 8C 68 04 34 91 38 F2 02 48 18 77 19 45 21 D5 1C 4C 3D 62 D4 8A 0D E1 14 5E 5C 46 E2 40 0A 26 FF FF

Of course the motor temperature given by the stats sheet is wrong, because that stat sheet is for the default thermistor, and that's not what is in my motor. But at least it does get readings.

080918 postwiring.png

If you already have a conversion setup for the KTY83-110 sensor that I can put into the stats sheet, I'll do that. If not, I can figure out what to put into the sensor conversion area I can see in the lower right of the stats page, assuming that's what that area is for. (and assuming that doesnt' affect the internal heatsink temperature stat readout)



Firmware update to second version for today, successful:
Code:
Initiating write...
      Searching for bl . . . . . . 
      Found dsPIC30F4011 fw ver. 4.0.3
      Waiting for the boot loader to be ready...ok
      Parsing hexfile...
            File timestamp: 8/9/2018 6:46:46 PM
            Opening hexfile...ok
            Validating hexfile...ok
            Hex file successfully parsed
      Writing flash....ok
      Tx 20.3kB / Rx 208 bytes / 12.6s
      Write successfully completed

and a quick test ride around, which didn't seem different than the first version for today, but I didn't do much other than a ride up and down the street, partly cuz the storm moving in and partly cuz the axle being broken.

ride stats
12 34 60 D3 68 67 36 CD 4E C4 01 3A 18 AB 19 4B 3B 32 3F D6 37 18 1A 31 41 9A 14 5E 5D ED 14 A0 23 14 31 FA

ca stats
54.9vtart
54.6vrest
50.6vmin
118.1amax
0amin
19.9mph max


Battery minimum instantaneous voltage is still donw in the 45v range, even after the upgrade to the SB50 and doubled wires.

I put my Fluke on some extended test leads with wires in the back of the SFOC-side SB50 contacts, and but I couldn't see it well enough in the darkening dusk to watch it closely while accelerating at WOT down the road. What I could see didn't dip below about 50v, which matches what the CA reads.
 
Partly why Stats were introduced in the first place, and a check that should probably be mentioned in the manual.
Probably. :) I can write something up for that if you want.
Splendid.

Offground checks show it is much less resistance to manually spinning the wheel, but there's still a lot.
Noted. To be addressed in the next update.

Nice side by side test of the gain multiplicator setting.
For MF=0.1, we see balanced phase currents (spread is about 11%), but an overshoot of 68%.
AmbStats mf01.JPG

For MF=0.5, the overshoot is 9% (spread about 6%) for practically the same demanded current.
mf0.5 ride stats 080918 1.png

If you already have a conversion setup for the KTY83-110 sensor that I can put into the stats sheet, I'll do that.
The one I had was the KTY83-122. Will be travelling for a few days, so this is what can be done for now:
https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1503779.pdf

The KTY83-xxx are PTC (vs NTC that the SFOC5 is currently prepared for). The biasing resistor is 4.7k.

What I could see didn't dip below about 50v, which matches what the CA reads.
The Min batt volt inst is the un-doctored lowest of the thousands of unfiltered readings evaluated during your short ride. There should probably be at least some rudimentary weeding out of outliers for this stat to have any meaning in the sense you are ascribing it. Now on the To Consider list.
 
incememed said:
Nice side by side test of the gain multiplicator setting.
For MF=0.1, we see balanced phase currents (spread is about 11%), but an overshoot of 68%.
AmbStats mf01.JPG

For MF=0.5, the overshoot is 9% (spread about 6%) for practically the same demanded current.
mf0.5 ride stats 080918 1.png
Ah...I didn't really get how to compare these before. :)

So the higher MF is "better" now. Previously, a higher MF would generally cause *more* stutter/etc., or make it harder to avoid those by keeping throttle low; now it causes less (at least, for values from 0.1 to 0.5).




The one I had was the KTY83-122. Will be travelling for a few days, so this is what can be done for now:
No worries. I had to open up the motor during the axle repair anyway, so I installed the supplied thermistor under the windings. Some (unexpected/wrong) results in the next post (but not sure exactly why they're wrong; have an idea, see the end of the next post).


The Min batt volt inst is the un-doctored lowest of the thousands of unfiltered readings evaluated during your short ride. There should probably be at least some rudimentary weeding out of outliers for this stat to have any meaning in the sense you are ascribing it.
Since the powerup stats are just one sample, I'd have to use the realtime stats data for that.

So...in other words, I'll need to get cracking on the conversion program for realtime stats capture files into a human-readable table, to see if it really dips that low during high current usage, or if it's just a random negative-going noise spike it's recording. :)
 
Fixed the axle (though the whole process took almost all day instead of the couple hours I had planned), installed the supplied thermistor while I was in there, disconnecting the KTY sensor:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=67833&p=1402291#p1402291


Test rides...some wierd stuff.

First, I tried riding around more with the second firmware from yesterday; didn't really do much testing beyond a simple ride up and down the street yesterday so thought I should push it more today.

There are so many bangs and stutters even just riding down the street at a steady speed (anything from 10 to 20MPH), that I had to go back to the ofirst firmware from yesterday; I was kind of afraid it was going to break something even with the reinforcement. :shock:

I did try various MF settings, RPM limits, phase currents, etc., with basically no change in behavior (sometimes in intensity; like going down in MF value made them worse, going up mostly made them better).

However, I couldn't seem to get valid logs. I either kept getting stats with all zeroes except the 1234, or I'd get the stuff like a post or two above where it would start with F00F as if it were the realtime stats. Once I got an almost valid set, but min batt v inst is way way high. This problem continued for all the onground testing I did today. Examples:
12 34 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

12 34 13 E2 3B A0 37 31 42 31 02 8B 19 A4 1A 75 56 0B 53 90 58 AD BA 9C 58 E8 14 31 5F D1 FE C0 1F C8 33 B7

F0 0F F0 0F 03 4C 16 72 00 F5 03 D9 1D AE 0B 8F 05 AA 16 F3 14 1E 1B BA 75 D9 01 5E 05 90 27 A4 02 5A 00 03 18 AD 17 D0 17 61 17 2A 00 33 79 28 05 93 FC 43 3B 71 CF AA 2C E4 E7 1A 17 1F 01 7B 00 06 00 00 F0 0F

801018 1.png



I did get mostly valid stats for some offground tests.
12 34 13 E2 3B A0 37 31 42 31 02 8B 19 A4 1A 75 56 0B 53 90 58 AD BA 9C 58 E8 14 31 5F D1 FE C0 1F C8 33 B7


When I went back to the first firmware from yseterday, SFOC5ambwAug09
Code:
Initiating write...
      Searching for bl . . . . . . . . . . . . 
      Found dsPIC30F4011 fw ver. 4.0.3
      Waiting for the boot loader to be ready...ok
      Parsing hexfile...
            File timestamp: 8/9/2018 11:34:46 AM
            Opening hexfile...ok
            Validating hexfile...ok
            Hex file successfully parsed
      Writing flash....ok
      Tx 20.2kB / Rx 207 bytes / 15.9s
      Write successfully completed
I left the RPM down at 350, since I don't need it anywhere near the 600+ max it can go to. I think I'm going to bring it down lower, as a test, to see how it behaves as it hits that limit (it didn't appear to do anything when I hit almost 25MPH on one test, so I"m curious now).



But after a short set of test runs up and down the street, not even 3/4 of a mile, when I pulled into the yard to stop and get the stats, the controller acted strange. First I powered it off, shutting down the trike, then I setup realterm to receive the stats, and plugged in the serial cable. NO response at all, not even the usual power-on Status LED sequence, etc. So I disconnected and reconnected, and nothing. I shut down everything on the computer, and rebooted it, and unplugged/plugged the USB-serial in case it might be that, with no change. Even powered on the trike with serial not connected to see if it would oeprate, but no go.

After messing around with stuff for a few minutes, I rolled the trike on it's side so I could check for disconnections or whatever underneath, and found the controller so hot I couldn't keep the palm of my hand on it very long (almost 10 seconds), and couldn't put the back of my hand against it at all. The motor was very warm but not yet hot, but it was getting hotter. I didn't have access to the infrared thermometer today, or I"d give the readouts.

I was hot myself, and tired, and kinda frustrated with the day so far, almost all of it spent out in the heat (even though in the shade, still near or at 100F since late morning-ish). Since I wanted to go in and type all this stuff up, and eat something, but I also wanted to get the ride stats to put in here, and didn't have the patience to wait for everything to cool down on it's own. That could take quite a while. So I got some ice out of the deepfreeze and used that to cool the controller and motor casings down to where I could keep touching them.

Once I did this, which took about 10 minutes (about 11 minutes longer than I wanted it to), I could now get stats, but they are all zeros again. :/
12 34 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
View attachment 2

ca stats for the ride:
57.6vstart
57.1vrest
57.0vmin
117.5amax
0amax
24.7mph max


Did an offground test again and got valid stats, so it's "working", just not normal.
12 34 21 94 42 55 21 BB 26 FB 02 88 1A 23 1A 3B 0D 6D 0B A1 0C 8C 05 4B 0D 1D 14 9E 5E 35 15 E0 09 55 32 3C
View attachment 3

Once I can handle getting up again and going out there, I'm going to cut all the other hall wires from the motor to the grinfineon, so the *only* wires from the motor will run to the SFOC, and nothing can interfere with them, because I ahve a suspicion that there is some kind of leaakge current or noise or whatever from the 5v in the grinfineon thru the halls into the SFOC via the thermistor, and it's messing with the SFOC somehow.

Since the issue with zeroed stats has happened consistently (under load at least) today and only today, and that's after I did the sensor wiring, there logically should be some connection between them.

I can also cut the sensor wires from the SFOC to the sensor, and see if that's it, too, if the first doesn't work.


I have to go back to the older stats and see, but I have this feeling that the controller didn't used to get so hot so fast as it has the last few days, even when the air temperature is as high or higher. Can't compare the motor since I didn't really check it until that night with the IR thermometer.

I can lower the phase currents, since I might be hitting saturation in the motor, and then it's just making heat with the excess.
 
I cut the 5v power wire from the grinfineon to the halls in the motor, in case it was interfering with the temperature sensor readings.

Powerup stats from this morning:
12 34 21 94 42 55 21 BB 26 FB 02 88 1A 23 1A 3B 0D 6D 0B A1 0C 8C 05 4B 0D 1D 14 9E 5E 35 15 E0 09 55 32 3C

Evertyhing looks reasonable, with the last usage last night just before the rainstorm, though both of the min temps are pretty low--I think the lowest it actually got was about 80F, maybe 75F during the actual rainstorm (which it was not powered on during or after until I got the above stats, but the controller says about 68F.


One line out of a quick realtime stats check to compare, a minute or two after that.
F00F 0000 FF07 FF26 FFFF 19E0 FFFF
317B = around 34C controller
2D79 = around 29C motor
0800 1534

Not sure why they'd be different, as they are inches from each other, and the trike was parked in the shed (doors open) all night. Should both be about the same, so my guess is resistance to the motor sensor is different than what SFOC expects, offsetting it to a slightly lower reading. (or something with the now-unpowered hall sensors is somehow interfering, though I don't see how?)




I changed the RPM limit to 200 (from 350), and the phase current limit to 150 (from 250), to see what effects this might have, and rode about 5 miles, this is the powerup stats after that:
12 34 12 37 5B 5A 2D 03 53 5B 02 7A 18 77 1A 44 25 C6 24 28 34 69 DB 92 26 81 13 5C 5E A2 A8 00 1A 31 1E 60

Everything looks reasonable, except Max RPM , Min Motor temp, Max Ibatt (ADC), Min batt volt inst, and Min throttle.

MBVI is 374.1, which can't be right since I'd think it *should* be the *lowest* of all possible voltage readings used to create the Min Battery Voltage stat (which shows 54.5), and thus shouldn't show any value greater than MBV, right?

Max Ibatt shows 841A. CA says it was little more than a tenth of that.

Max rpm is 630, which it definitely couldn't have reached; no wheelspin or offground testing, so max it could've reached is what it would've been at 21.something MPH. That's as fast as it reached when I tested to see if it would let me keep going past the 200RPM limit I set in it, and it definitely does. 200RPM should be somewhere around 12-13MPH. (350RPM should be around 21MPH, and 320RPM should be around 20MPH).

Min Throttle (according to previous measurements) is at it's lowest over 1v, and even if I go by the ones before that it only goes down to 0.89v. So either there's noise in the lines (probably in ground) or something else is wrong. I can run a separate shielded wire if necessary, but I don't think it's actually causing me problems, and is just a stats thing. The Max throttle looks right.



Max motor temperature is 70C, which sounds reasonable, with controller max at 60C, and min at 30C, also reasonable.

Min motor temperature is now 5C, which I know is wrong, so there's still interference. I'll try cutting the hall sensor output wires and see if that makes a difference. If not, I'll try reading the sensor with just an ohmmeter and watch the values, see if there's glitches. If I don't see any realtime, I'll ride around and grab a realtime stats sample and see what that shows. If it's just a random occasional wildly different value, I'll convert that and check what it says.


I can actually use that same method (just looking at the hex value itself) for any of the stats to see if there's random outliers, even without converting them. I should see relatively smooth changes to most of the stats, and where there are sudden changes I can convert values to see what they are. Should let me look for voltage sag, too.


Phase current are higher than I'd expect with the limits imposed. If it's set to 150A max, should it be able to exceed it by that much? (Ia 191, Ib 182, Ic 265, id -184, IQ 194) Max iQ reference is 153, meaning it appears to be limiting the value itself within reason, but I don't know quite how the phase currents are actually limited in there.


Looks like Max Ic is significantly different from Ia and Ib, which I suppose could have happened anytime, but would the most reasonable time be during non-smooth-parts of accelerations?


The actual ride was pretty good, and the few stutters I could cause were much smoother than with the higher (250A) phase currents than with the lower (150A) setting, to be expected. More like the "washboard" effect.

No BANGs, even "light" ones.

As expected, acceleration is MUCH less with the lower phase amps. Takes more than twice the time to get to 20MPH than at 250A. Going to experiment with phase current to see if I can find a happy medium somewhere between quickly heating the motor and controller, and the fastest possible 0-20MPH acceleration.


Could'nt upload the images of the stats yet; wifi bandwidth is too low (can barely load ES pages even with images and a bunch of CSS blocked so they don't download). I'll put them up later and edit them in.
 
Got a BANG at speed (closer to 20MPH this time, isntead of the 15-16MPH I seem to recall them happening at in general), where when it happens, the noise is quite loud, there's an instantaneous braking jerk as if it suddenly completely reversed rotation at full torque (or more) for an instant. It jerks the trike to the right very hard, I'd almost say violently. Then it either resumes operating normally or goes into shutdown mode, requiring a complete stop to restart it.

In this case, it resumed operating normally the next instant; I'm sure I dropped throttle, possibly to zero, in the automatic reaction to the sound and feel, but I brought it right back up to cruising and it kept working.

However, it broke the inboard axle again; see here for details:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=67833&p=1402539#p1402539

So while I"m still using hte SFOC to drive the wheel for testing, I'll be reducing the phase currents to the 150A again, and just using it in conjunction with the leftside generic controller and 4504 combo, to reduce stress on the remaining side of the axle. I won't be pushing any boundaries until I can implement one of the fixes in the linked post (or a better one if I can come up with it with stuff I already have).

Am still working on learning how to make a realtime-stats-capture-file conversion program; once I can do that then I can easily read the capture data, and will re-start doing captures of all the rides. Then progress to figuring out some sort of dashboard program to do ti live while I ride. (that'll be a lot longer).



I'm wiped out from working out the temporary fix and stuff for the wheel, so will post up the data from the rides later, or tomorrow.
 
Any ideas on what might be causing the BANGs? (which is also a form of cut-out, so it might be what you're referring to...but it's much more than a simple cutout, in it's effects...that's one reason I put it in all capitals ;) ).

I didn't experience any BANGs at the lower current (150A phase) on the commute, which is good (I'm not sure the remaining axle end will survive another one).

For the ride today, as long as I smoothly throttle up the SFOC on the right side, just barely *after* I hit WOT on the generic controller on the left side, then everything accelerates smoothly. Even if I cut off throttle on the generic once past about 6-7MPH, SFOC will continue accelerating quickly and smoothly, though it's nto really "quick" accelration until past at least 10MPH+, and it's not getting into impressive untl it's past 15MPH.

If I could go past 20MPH all the time, the acceleration past htat point is...WOW. ;) But I can't actually *use* that acceleration. I wish it could do that down at the near-zero end of the range (from zero would be best, but not expecting that).

It's hard to quantify with just a butt-dyno ;) but it seems like the acceleration curves for the generic trap sensorless and the SFOC cross somewhere around the middle of 0-20MPH, possibly the lower end of middle.
 
I forgot about posting up the ride data; not sure it's relevant at this point now that there's new firmware.

I did get that installed today, after I fixed another problem on the trike (broken front axle on the normal bike wheel; never had that happen before), and before I fixed the broken-off pedal-BB shell, but I haven't tried to get log data from it yet.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=67833&p=1404238#p1404238

I did use the new FW (8-14-18) for the 10-mile test ride, still using the 150A phase setting since that seems to be easier on the poor righthand motor's axle. But I forgot to get the ride data powerup stats, and have power cycled the system a number of times since then during the fixing of the pedals/BB after the test ride, long enough that it wouldn't have the stats from the ride anymore.


I can't "feel" much difference in operation, though the startup appears to be a little smoother at a little lower speed, it still doens't start from a stop on it's own. I *can* hit WOT from the beginning of the point that I can start with the motor at all, though.

Everything else feels much the same; no hard data yet though.
 
Ok, there is now one more prototype looking for an eager test-pilot. Rating is 126 V/360 A.

Documentation and everything is the same as for the previous prototypes
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1SrqjgC2lSxXCAzWI8V--YkTYgAr2jAxa?usp=sharing

Conditions same as before
- You are not liable for any damage made to the controller
- You are encouraged to engage in any type of testing you see fit, including destructive (within reasonable methods)
- You keep it for a month or so, and return it at your own expense or you may at that point decide to keep it for a symbolic fee corresponding to half the price of a comparable controller
- You are on ES >3 years
- From time to time I may ask you to try some feature or setting

PM me or reply here if you are interested.

Had some fun testing it :)
[youtube]B05A1v2iVRc[/youtube]
 
I may be interested in testing one out. I have been following this thread, and as luck would have it I recently burned up the Kelly controller in the bike I normally daily drive. I guess I pushed it too hard in the heat. I got about 8k miles out of it, though! :D

Let me know, as I need to order something to get it back on the road. It currently has a MUXUS 3k 4T, but I also have an HS3540 or two I can swap in if either one is preferable to you for testing. Sad to say I am not in Northern Europe. I am in the USA, but happy to ship it back or pay if I like it in the name of science.
 
Use any motor you like. Or better yet, try them all. Some motor may withstand higher current, that would be preferable in terms of putting thermal load on the controller. It's up to you, most important is to put hours on the controller.

PM me your address if you want to have a go. You can also send me a filled out S&S to have it setup to a certain motor and voltage from the get-go.
 
@ecycler: I have a feeling you're going to want to keep the SFOC when done testing it. :) I certainly like it, so if I can work out the funding I'd keep the one I have here...and wish for a second one for the other wheel. ;)

Just an update: Have been running the swapped-in HSR3548 on the right side with the Grinfineon for the last few days, to make sure everything works right and keeps working. I didn't have time for the mods to the 4504's shoulders to ensure it can't be broken by any sudden torque changes when testing the SFOC5, but should in the next few days. Thne I can start testing the SFOC5 with the 4504


I didn't have the bearing needed for the 4503 to fit the bigger axle yet, so when I have that Ill mod that motor and remount it for testing further with the SFOC5.

Testing and the stuff above may be slowed a little, as this Friday there'll be a pair of additions to the St bernard "pack" here, so working out the new heirarchy may take up more of my week off (next week) than previously planned. :)
 
ecycler said:
[...] but I also have an HS3540 or two I can swap in if either one is preferable to you for testing.

If I'm not mistaken, that would be the motor in the Fighter. Last winter I had the opportunity to put an earlier version of the SFOC on that bike, with stock everything else. I had a Fighter owner ride it, the comments were it became silent and that it was now easier to wheelie. (That was back when the SFOC was limited to 130 A phase, or thereabout.)

He only had one session, and in the blistering cold, so I don't think we concluded anything on the general motor overheating problem of this bike.

The settings I used back then are still in the S&S, under Proven settings.
 
Now that the new puppies appear to be settling in, back to testing.

Haven't found exact numbers for the HSR3548 I can use for testing ATM, but I found this post
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=38141#p556898
with the winding info, so I can use that to make proportions for calculating what's needed based on the proven stats for the HS3540:
HS3548 are a 12x5 wind

HS3540 are 10x6
So 5/6 or 0.8333333 should work for resistance and inductance, since there are less turns, and 6/5 or 1.2 should work for kV since speed is higher for less turns?

Proven HS3540:
10.4 kV
123 Resistance
313 Inductance

using the mulitpliers calculated above would be for HSR3548:
12.48 kV
102.5 Resistance
260.83 Inductance

Note that I did a quick offground spinup test after hooking up SFOC5 to the HSR3548, with the old aug24th firmware, and the existing setting for the MXUS 4503, and it did spinup, though I didn't give it more than a little throttle, slowly, just to confirm it was hooked up right.

So now I've flashed to the Sep1st fw, and am reloading the settings using the above calculated motor values, with my regular tthrottle and battery settings, leaving everything else in the stat sheet at defaults.

I noticed the Stats&Settings sheet has no phase current setttings anymore, and some other stuff isn't over in the blue section either. So I set the battery current limit to what I had it in the old stats, 140A, and I'd guess the stats sheet takes care of setting phase limits appropriately?



First, good news is there's little of the "hiss" or "rumble" just sitting there, even without the sleep mode (which it doesn't appear to have now). I can hear the hiss if I put my ear next to the motor, but not otherwise. I can feel the rumble if I put my hand on the motor or wheel, but not hte frame. How much of this is the difference in the motors and how much firmware, I couldn't say until I fix the 4503 and put it back on there.


Spinup test went fine offground, no unusual behaviors. Am now taking it for a spin around the block, then a longer test if that works out.
 
Quick test around the block has stuttering, etc; it's prbably wrong motor settings, so I'll have to work out what they really should be vs the quickie calculation above. Basically it's like when I first started out with the 4503 again.


Stats have some quirks; avg battery voltage is at least two volts higher than reality, both min and max. Instantaneous min is very close to CA reading (.3v less). Max RPM shows 630, but I didn't get past about 17mph.

12 34 00 00 00 00 31 97 47 60 02 77 1A 3C 1A 8F 42 F9 4C DA 4A 9D CB A6 4C C0 00 00 5E 07 19 C5 08 FF 1B BB
 
Altered the motor settings a bit:
100mohms
240uh
then retried, similar behavior but a little better.

wish I could still change the phase current limit directly, because that might help until I find the right motor settings.

Stats:

12 34 00 00 00 00 3F 0D 4E 04 01 43 1A 2E 1A 92 4D C6 37 57 44 4D 2D 8B 4C 7D 13 BD 5E 1E 19 AF 08 7A 1B BB
 

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Regarding the Stealth Fighter motor and motor parameters, I found this useful bit of information over at electricbike.com:

The Fighter uses a custom-spec Crystalyte hub motor for an electric drive. (read our review on this hub motor here) The motor is based on the HS3540 however it uses a custom wind to meet its design speed of 50kph at 48V.
https://www.electricbike.com/stealth-fighter/

So S&S will be corrected to leave out reference to the HS3540.

About the "real" HS3540 and the HS3548, someone in Hungary claims to have heard that the following correlation is true (courtesy of Google Translate):
The Crystalyte products are pretty good, not by chance so popular. I found a comparison chart that compares the older X5 series with this new HS series.

The machines of the two series are comparable to each other:

5-series -> H-series

5303 -> 3553
5304 -> 3548
3505 -> 3540
5306 -> 3525

From the 5th Series you will find a lot of topics on the endless-sphere board. There are animals who drive the 5-inch engines with 70-80 kmph :) If you can get realistic prices, I think it's a good choice.

So, 5304 parameters may give an indication as to where to begin with the HS3548. Doctorbass (again) provides good data:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=19301&p=281141#p281141

Extrapolated for the HS3548:
kv: 9.1
R: 103-142 mohm
L: 225-293 uH

wish I could still change the phase current limit directly, because that might help until I find the right motor settings.
Phase current limit is in there, what is removed is battery current limit.
 
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