incememed said:
We don't get much of Arizona heat around here, I think it would be an excellent venue.
We'll also have the chance for rain, with the higher humidity and weather patterns for the next little while.
I did find some info on the forum, including an inductance value for a MXUS 3T which I believe would apply to the 4503?
kv / R (mohm) / L (uH) / pp
4503 11.9 / 72 / 230 / 23
4504 8.9 / 112 / 307 (extrapolated) / 23
AFAIK the MXUS 3T (3000w) is the 4503, and the 4T is the 4504, and those value ranges sound right, from what a quick search finds, like here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=91144&p=1390038#p1390038
QS or MXUS hub motor which have inductance values in the range of 150-300µH.
and here
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=92101
Added from "teslanv"
Here is some more Hard data for the EE folks:
MXUS XF40-45H (3000W) DD Hub motors...
21X3T Winding
Phase resistance = 0.072 Ohms
RPM at 50.2V = 597, 11.89 Kv
1.78A/89.4 Watts No Load
16X4T Winding
Phase resistance = 0.110 Ohms
RPM at 50.2V = 448.2, 8.93 Kv
1.08A/54.2 Watts No Load
I have various multimeters, including an old Fluke 77 III (but no current measurement with it as the fuses blew long ago, and are expensive), and another Fluke I forget the model of, and a little mini-oscilloscope. If there's a way to get the readings we need using those, I can try.
(even if it's just readings of other things to do calculations with).
While accuracy in motor parameters may have some measurable impact, there is a fairly wide range where human perception will tell no difference in how it drives. So, having ballpark values, the tuning can be dialed in quite well.
I have to verify which one is on the right side, but that's the one I'll test with (at least at first), I think it's the 3T (4503). I depend on the braking from the left side more than that on the right, so until I "know" this controller's braking behavior I'd rather trust the one I know well.
(it's hard enough to cause some brake steer to the left).
T
he controller needs to be told the resting level and full throttle level of the CA throttle signal, if other than 0 V / 5 V, respectively. This is in the settings sheet.
That's easy enough. At present the CA doesn't drive the system, just monitors it, so it's directly controlled by the throttle (one for each controller/motor, in the rear wheels, so I can also help steer with them in sharper turns, and run them independently if something goes wrong with one).
So the voltage on the throttle will be typical hall throttle values; I'll have to measure them to see exactly what it is.
Also, from the CA, you need to connect both GND and Throttle signal to the controller throttle connector. This is because the logic (5 V) circuit of the controller is galvanically separated from the main voltage, meaning that battery negative and logic GND have no connection in the controller. So in order for the throttle signal from the CA to have any meaning to the controller, its logic GND must be connected to CA GND (effectively reconnecting battery neg to controller logic GND).
That's a good way to do things anyway; I already have a logic ground for the controls/etc wiring to the controllers (which are under the trike's deck near the wheels for short phase wires).
I can't clearly see which connector type you're using for the control wires or programming. Whatever it is, I might have a matching one here.
For programming/etc., I have a few USB-serial units (one old Belkin, one newer Belkin, both with DB9 serial end, one from Lyen with just pins on the serial end, and one from Grin Tech with the 3.5mm phono plug on the serial end).
Speaking of phase wires--are those PP75s? If so, I think I have three I can install on my motor wires. (or use a couple of SB50s, as those will mate with PP75s and use the same contacts) (at present all my wires are directly soldered, to prevent any possible connector issues, but it's probably a good idea to use connectors for the testing, so if somethign goes wrong on a commute I can just plug the other one back in).
My power wires are also soldered, but I have an SB50 I use for charging that I can plug this into instead of splicing in new power connections. I'd just use an adapter from PP45 to SB50 I already have.
If you prefer, the settings can be preprogrammed before shipping. All you need to do is to fill out the green fields of the first sheet of Settings&Stats.xls in the Documentation folder.
Ok. I'll find an XLS editor and do that, to save a bit of time on the first setup and tests.
I suppose you probably don't want me to open it up and post a thread about all the internals and review it's operation (like i usually do with new controllers, etc).