have i killed my gears? Puma V3

[Pedalex]

Have you got the green gears then? if so I wouldnt worry too much about the xlyte controller

Go easy on the starts from a standing start

i got the gear assembly (one steel, two nylons) from Ken
http://us.itselectric.ca/Motor_Parts_s/74.htm

installed it yesterday and couldn´t take it for a ride as it was raining heavily but with no load it sounds a bit like a hammer drill - but not as loud as i expected. however i couldn´t test it on the road yet. i also ordered a 48V 20A Crystalyte controller - the thin one in the plastic case.

http://www.crystalyte-europe.com/product.php?productid=16291&cat=271&page=1

not really pwerful but i think i´ll use the Puma as my daily driver (one more daily driver.. :lol: ) and try all the nasty things with my direct drive hubs

 

[knoxie]

Hi

Glad you got the gears OK will be interesting to see how you get on. I dont know that controller that you have though? you must check if it is an analogue or digital controller (not sure if your vendor will know) if its analogue you will be fine, if it is digital it wont work with the BMC motor, also it was the old analogue controllers like this one http://www.thesuperkids.com/cr72vo35ampc.html that had the softer start that was much kinder to the gears.

 

[neptronix]

What i find for my MAC motor is that it shudders and jerks if i try to maintain a constant speed.. as if the freewheel constantly engages/disengages.. so i pedal with the throttle on 100%, or i pedal constantly while hitting the throttle occasionally..

$175 for a controller.... that is crazy. For that price, i will continue doing as i do..

 

[Pedalex]

you must check if it is an analogue or digital controller (not sure if your vendor will know) if its analogue you will be fine, if it is digital it wont work with the BMC motor, also it was the old analogue controllers like this one http://www.thesuperkids.com/cr72vo35ampc.html that had the softer start that was much kinder to the gears.

i´m quite sure it´s analoque.

i´m not really using the throttle and never from a standing start. 99% of the time i´m using the PAS only so the first 2 or 3 meters till the PAS starts to work the motor isn´t working anyway but the PAS on some of my controllers kicks in really hard. maybe that´s what killed my first set of gears...although the bike was already moving... :?

 

[kfong]

My setup is 600w V2T with the V3 clutch and the V3 green composite gears. Crystalyte 72v analog controller. Voltage at 40 with current set to 35A. Top speed 21mph. I pedal when I ride the trails. I don't treat it any different then I would a regular mountain bike. Over a 1000mile of trial riding and still running reliably. Spring is finally near and I can't wait to get back on the trails with this bike. When I jump logs, I do let off the throttle upon landing. Very happy with it so far. Keeping the weight light was important to me. Mich. is relatively flat, but the trails here have lots of up and down climbs. I would not last without the BMC. especially on some of the longer hill climbs. The single tracks here have lots of turns and twists to them, making a bike nimble keeps in the fun factor. Keeping it stealthy and quiet allows me to ride along with other mtn bikers. I usually don't get any attention drawn to me, which is what I want since motorized vehicles are not really allowed in parks.

 

[FMB42]

My setup is 600w V2T with the V3 clutch and the V3 green composite gears...Very happy with it so far.

Thanks for the info KFong.

I think I'm going to follow your lead by using the BMC V2T on my FS mtb build. I'll probably go with a 22-25 amp controller and a Ping 36v mounted within the frame triangle or above the frame top tube.

 

[knoxie]

What i find for my MAC motor is that it shudders and jerks if i try to maintain a constant speed.. as if the freewheel constantly engages/disengages.. so i pedal with the throttle on 100%, or i pedal constantly while hitting the throttle occasionally..

$175 for a controller.... that is crazy. For that price, i will continue doing as i do..

I suspect your problem may be mechanical of some sort, the old analogue controllers are great controllers and withstood a lot of abuse, this one is the all singing all dancing version, the price on superkids might reflect the fact that they are very hard to get now, I think I paid about 150 dollars for the first one I bought all the others I got for nothing, I have 6 of these controllers 1 of them brand new still in the box, I have replaced fets in 1 or 2 of them and the odd switch but other than that they have been bullet proof (the fets only blew because the BMC running at 72V was too fast for the hall circuit in the controller).

 

[kfong]

I would like those who have taken out the green composite gears to chime in and let us know what conditions where put on them when they were damaged. From what I have read very few if any have destroyed the green gears. This would give us a better clue to how much we can push them. I think Cellman is getting newer composites ones made that are 20% thicker and should have them next week. This would allow us to push them even harder. With Burtie's new board that allows you to set the timing, this is looking really good for the BMC/MAC setups. I just ordered Burtie's board and he has confirmed that it's in the mail. This should boost both my low end torque and high end speed. I was happy before but even more excited now. I'm also curious on how it will improve my distances, better efficiency. I don't plan to change my voltage, but uping the current to the limit of the green gears while keeping it reliable is planned. Reliability is still up there on the list, I hate getting stuck in the woods. I avoiding the metal gears since they are reported to be very noisy and the wear to the sungear will be permanent. Rather be replacing gears than a hub.

 

[Ypedal]

... ...$175 for a controller.... that is crazy. For that price, i will continue doing as i do..

.... I have 6 of these controllers 1 of them brand new still in the box, I have replaced fets in 1 or 2 of them and the odd switch but other than that they have been bullet proof (the fets only blew because the BMC running at 72V was too fast for the hall circuit in the controller).

Those old analogue boxes were solid when you got a good one, i had a batch with about 75% failure rate, sticker said 36~72v but at anything over 48 = smoke.

The few that lasted at least a week, lasted for years and still run right !

 

[knoxie]

yes Y they had a batch back in the early days that were a bit iffy but all mine have been rock solid, I wouldnt change mine for another controller as they are very well made when you compare them to some of the more modern controllers. Put it this way I wont be selling my brand new one to anyone in a hurry! oh the new one also has the adjustable current limit as well, really nice just dial in the current limit with little knob on the handle bars! works like a charm and great for keeping things legal this side of the pond :wink:

I have never had to change my gears, I have chipped teeth on a very early none BMC copy motor but that was a lousy motor all round and the one way went in that in the end, the true BMC motors have never had a problem with and use the same one with maybe 4,000 + miles at 48V 35A Lipo power, no problems, very light very powerful hill climbing motor, pure class in my book 8)

I would happily try the green gears if I need to, I dont fancy the steel ones at all mind, wouldnt even run one of them :?

 

[Pedalex]

one more question - i´m running one steel gear and 2 white nylon gears (the assembly from itselectric) at the moment - does anybody knwo if it gets really really loud if i use 3 steel gears or isn´t there much difference any more. i think the one is not so bad - a bit like a hammer drill but no problem. thing is i already have 3 steel gears laying around here and now that i have two 48V sony konion packs i think i´ll try 96V.
don´t know yet hw many amps...

 

[neptronix]

one more question - i´m running one steel gear and 2 white nylon gears (the assembly from itselectric) at the moment - does anybody knwo if it gets really really loud if i use 3 steel gears or isn´t there much difference any more. i think the one is not so bad - a bit like a hammer drill but no problem. thing is i already have 3 steel gears laying around here and now that i have two 48V sony konion packs i think i´ll try 96V.
don´t know yet hw many amps...

96v? that's pretty ambituous. Let us know what your speed record is on that.

I don't know of anyone who has ran 3 steel gears and honestly i think it is a bad idea. That's gonna generate some heat and a lot of metal shavings over time that would normally get trapped in oil in say, a car transmission..

But you can't run a bunch of grease/oil in it as it'll leak out the side and/or probably get in the windings.

There is a big thread about nylon VS steel gears this but it is lost in the ether.

 

[Pedalex]

ps: one more pointer, if you freewheel cover plate is steel (where the freewheel thread is, and magnet can stick to it), you should change it. It will snap off when you do a stay up pedaling. You need to replace with a cover plate that had stainless steel freewheel thread (magnet that cannot stick to it).

i didn´t even stand up, was just sitting and in a low gear and....damn. happened on a rainy day when i left my battery pack at home so i had to walk home

so... where to get a stainless cover plate???
and maybe some green or grey gears for my other Puma

 

[itselectric]

ps: one more pointer, if you freewheel cover plate is steel (where the freewheel thread is, and magnet can stick to it), you should change it. It will snap off when you do a stay up pedaling. You need to replace with a cover plate that had stainless steel freewheel thread (magnet that cannot stick to it).

i didn´t even stand up, was just sitting and in a low gear and....damn. happened on a rainy day when i left my battery pack at home so i had to walk home

so... where to get a stainless cover plate???
and maybe some green or grey gears for my other Puma

Pedalex:

ok, was I right or not. I have stainless steel freewheel thread cover plate, just let me dig into my parts draw...

I believe if you put a spacer inside the freewheel, it will make it stronger. That is because the freewheel thread is too shallow, it create a space between freewheel and the thread cover plate. Whenever yo pedal hard in high gear, it create compression between the freewheel and cover plate, if there is space in between, it created a weak spot which cause it to snap.

 

[neptronix]

I would bug cell_man for a new side cover plate. He's good at sourcing various parts like this.

 

[Pedalex]

Hi!
Would be nice if you found one, or two. Send me a PM with your paypal adress, shipping goes to Austria.

Thanks, Alex

 

[gasd]

I Have the same failure. Its broke very very quickly with low range in uphill !!!!!

 

[gasd]

The cause is the poor fabrication process.... the spocket insert is made in steel and the cover is in aluminium. the welding of aluminium with steel is very poor

 

[whatever]

I'm quite sure your motor is made in india, the chinese made macbmc are much better quality, though still some issues
also these motors were originally made to run on 36v and 15amps, there is a safety margin built in, so there are sure to be issues, but the failure of your motor is in my opinion due to poor copying of chinese motor by bmc india plant