Thanks for the reply! I’m replacing the display because the original got physically damaged and I can’t turn the scooter on without it.
Depending on the specifics of that damage, the scooter itself may have other damaged parts including the controller itself, because it's not uncommon for physical damage to a part to include electrical shorts between high and low voltage wiring. So...if a new display doesn't work, that might be why.
• Software version: SuoYa-S6-V5
Even creative websearches for the name / etc don't find anything relevant...you might have to get a new part for it from the original scooter maker or seller.
• One 5-pin male green connector
• One 3-pin male yellow connector
Since you have a working example, if you can do some voltage checks on the connector from taht one's controller/display with it attached, you can see which pins have which voltages or signals.
You can compare this to your own controller, so that you can tell which of those voltages is generated by it, and which by the display. That might help bypass the display to run the scooter without it, if you can't get a compatbile one.
Typically there are 5 wires::
--battery + (from controller to display)
--battery - (from controller to display)
--KeySwitch / Ignition (battery + sent back to controller only when display is turned on at it's power button)
--tx data(a 0-5v signal)
--rx data (a 0-5v signal)
There is no 5v or any other output from the controller until the display is on, because the LVPS that makes 5v/etc gets it's power from the KSI wire.
The three pin, if it's where your throttle plugs in, means that the controler itself may not have a throttle input, and may be like the ones that use the one you mentioned before, TF100, which reads the throttle internally and then sends that as data to the controller. If that's the case, then wiithout the display, it wouldn't matter if you can turn on the controller without it, as you don't have a way to control it.
If all the signals you see on yours are the same as those found on a TF100, then as long as you correclty determine the wiring on the TF and your controller, you could try one and see if it works. If the signals aren't compatible voltages you don't wnat to try this, but if they are, even if the data is wrong it shouldn't hurt anything. There are a few threads about the TF100 and another variant I forgot the name/number of that looks about the same.