Help me choose the right tires.

E

EdwardNY

1 kW
Joined
Aug 30, 2012
Messages
317
Location
New York
First I want to say that I searched tires on this site extensively. Yet, everybody has their own recommendation and I really am lost about what type of tire I should choose. Some say big apple, then other say maxxis hookworm tires.

Right now I have knobby tires on my mountain bike and they are wearing pretty fast, especially on the rear. These are 26x2.1".

I realized that I mostly drive 90% on street and pavement around NYC. I do not go off road too much as it seems to be really hard on the ebike. The batteries, and hub motor don't seem to take that kind of abuse well, so I just don't drive off road that much. But I will do it every once in a while.

What tires would you guys recommend for a full suspension mountain bike that I mostly drive on the street and pavement. But will also allow me some traction if I drive over grass and dirt roads. I also give the tires a beating with driving fast on the sidewalk with all the bumps etc. I drive the bike pretty hard and fast so I would need something that would not slip out and lose traction, if that even matters at all from tire to tire. I plan to do lots of 40-45MPH driving also when I upgrade my controller.

Any input into what I should get would be appreciated.
 
CST Cyclops or Panaracer UfDa's are what I settled on. Maxxis Hookworms would probably be good too but they're twice the money and might not clear my rear swingarm so I've never used 'em. I suggest a 2.5mm thick downhill tube on the rear motor wheel and regular thickness on front wheel. Few ounces of Slime to hopefully seal punctures enough to limp home.

Tonight, without advance warning, NYC DOT closed 59th St bridge bike lane to lay new surface. I detoured via the upper level car lane and actually kept up pretty good. That was different and windy! LOL...
 
I use these.
http://www.amazon.com/CST-Cyclops-Tire-2-4-BLK/dp/B002SG53RE
http://www.amazon.com/XLC-Boxed-Tube-2-75-SCHRADER/dp/B0039V26U4
 
i use schwalbe marathon plus. highly puncture resistant. great on road ,and i have ridden unsealed dirt roads with them fine also.
 
Lots of choices, and lots of variables depending on if you want cheap, or want long tread wear, or want puncture resistance.

My approach on the commuter has been that I will ride through so much sharp gravel, metal bits, and broken glass that emphasizing long tread wear life is pointless. The tire will cut, no matter what by 2000 miles.

So I have run mostly cheap tires from wallmart or whatever, or cheaper brands like innova if mail ordered. I pick tread styles that are typically found in the commuter, or comfort bike category. What I'm looking for if possible is a ceter rib on the top of the tire for low rolling resistance, then some decent deep tread on the sides of the tire. With luck, the sharp part of the glass finds the gap and doesn't always cut the tire.

No slicks for sure.

This tire has been one of my favorites. Cheap enough to replace if cut in the first 500 miles, but if I get lucky I still get 2000 miles from one on a motor wheel. Far from a dirt tire, but not that skittish on a dirt road or a dirty patch of asphalt.

http://www.amazon.com/Bell-26-Inch-Comfort-Bike-KEVLAR/dp/B0012RJSXK

But lately, I've been running this tire on my longtail. Lotta weight on the longtail, so it feels better with a fat tire in corners. I haven't run them long enough to judge how they last.
http://www.innovatires.com/tire_serch.php?xPA=HV-2701
 
I like the Hookworms too, for street use in nice weather. The Big Apples are too hard gum for my riding style. First thing to think about on pavement is tire sole width, a worn out fat DH racing tire is a good over all roller on pavement and has a very good all weather cornering adherence. I have let my 2.7 Nevegals wear to slick this summer on the V 10, and the street ride was really good.
 
Drunkskunk said:
I'm a Hookworm fan. great tire that has never let me down in many thousands of miles of use.

But in NYC I think I would have to go for the Big Apples :D
Click to expand...

I respectfully disagree about the Big Apples. Now, I've only used the 2" wide 26" so my opinion may change but outta 10k miles on NYC roads the BA's just don't seem to grip wet steel road plates very well. I get really nervous when I'm out on the bike with those tires in wet conditions.

BA's are very round and well made Schwalbe quality, but the Cyclops and UfDa always seem to grip a lot better wet or dry, ride softer and always deliver more confidence. Obviously they're a wider tire 2.4"-2.3", respectively and maybe wide BA's would feel different?

I think the term often used in catalogs is "urban assault" tire? All I can tell you is that if you ride enough around here you'll become very adept at tire/wheel maintenance and repair.
 
For the streets and lowering rolling resistance, air pressure is your friend. However, it will lower the suspension effect of the tires. This is my real world experience.

Specialized FatBoy Tires - A 100 psi slick made for the least rolling resistance on a 26" mtn bike rim. I was talked into riding a metric century (60 miles) and only had a mtn bike, which I recently purchased. I removed the off-road knobbies and put on the FatBoys, then pumped to 100 lbs. Wow, what a difference in rolling resistance! The next thing I noticed was jumping off a curb was like landing on solid rubber tires. I hit hard. No more curb jumping. A lot of people freaked that I was riding the century on a mtn bike and I thought I was pretty tough, until a guy on knobbies went blowing by me. Another energy saver was drafting anything around. Tandem bikes pulled me along.

40 lbs = cushy ride, high resistance.
100 lbs = rock hard ride, but low resistance.
Pick a tire that has an inflation rate that matches your needs. Then pick a tread.

Cyclocross riders are pretty hardcore group, you might see what tires they are running.
 
I just swapped my tyres front to rear the other day, just to even out the wear.

I have covered 2500 miles on them so far, and although the rear was wearing, it still has a good amount of tread on it,

Schwalbe Crazy Bob's

Pneu_Schwalbe_Crazy_Bob_1235x735.jpg
 
I like this thread. As big a tire as will fit your bike frame, good traction, easy rolling quiet tread. I usually try to match the front and rear tire when I have a flat; but if I need to replace both at the same time, I like these options very much. I'll be back! 8)
I use Electra Hotster Whitewalls on my e-cruzer and Specialized Hemisphere Redwalls on my MTB. Before the Hemispheres, I used the Fat Boys and they were easiest to pedal, but had several blow outs at 100psi so I ran them at 90psi from then on without any problems. When I replace the Hemispheres, I'm planning on going larger, so the ones pictured might be an option. Keep posting your favorites please. Thanks! :)
 
Does having a thicker tire tube (like one of those anti-thorn/flat tubes) change the rolling resistance or ride handling of the tires?

I was reading a review on Amazon.com and they said that the thicker tube lowered rolling resistance. maybe this is from the increased weight of the tube?
 
What do you guys do when getting a flat? Do you really carry all the tools to change a flat on the rear wheel that has the hub motor?

I'm just trying to imagine getting a flat 20 miles away and how I would get home.
 
EdwardNY said:
What do you guys do when getting a flat? Do you really carry all the tools to change a flat on the rear wheel that has the hub motor?

I'm just trying to imagine getting a flat 20 miles away and how I would get home.
Click to expand...


You don't need any special tools other than the patch kit, a pump and tire irons. There is no reason to remove your wheel to patch a tire. Just remove one side of the tire pull out the tube and patch it. Check inside the tire for debris and put it back together. A ten minute job most of the time.
 
biohazardman said:
EdwardNY said:
What do you guys do when getting a flat? Do you really carry all the tools to change a flat on the rear wheel that has the hub motor?

I'm just trying to imagine getting a flat 20 miles away and how I would get home.
Click to expand...


You don't need any special tools other than the patch kit, a pump and tire irons. There is no reason to remove your wheel to patch a tire. Just remove one side of the tire pull out the tube and patch it. Check inside the tire for debris and put it back together. A ten minute job most of the time.
Click to expand...


Agreed. Get the Super pre-glued ones from Park and save yourself some trouble. Those things are so small, you could carry them in your contact lens case and they are very reliable.

I won't carry a tube with me. Maybe in the future, I will buy one of those Cobra tubes to keep in emergency on trips were I will need to be self sufficient (far away from backup transportation means)
 
ohhh, OK, I see. I guess it shows how much biking I have done as I never had to change a flat tire yet. Makes sense that you can fix it without taking the whole tire off.
 
EdwardNY said:
ohhh, OK, I see. I guess it shows how much biking I have done as I never had to change a flat tire yet. Makes sense that you can fix it without taking the whole tire off.
Click to expand...

I saw African kids do it on TV but it does take some practice to get quick and efficient. Flats are a crazy thing. I can go for months with nary a worry and suddenly have 3 flats in one week.

My daily commute is only 4 miles each way and I can always subway if completely disabled but the Slime usually holds long enough to get me indoors. When I go on long 20 mile runs I carry patches and a small 12V air compressor. Ride enough you will have flats. Ride longer and you will also begin dealing with spokes and eventually wheel construction.
 
I don't know how hard it is to remove a hub motor wheel. Changing a bicycle tire is pretty easy if you have ever changed motorcycle tires.

Running Slime in your tires will avoid flats if you run over a thorn or nail. A bit more messy is you have to patch the tube. If you blow out the tube, you need a new one.

Flat tire kit for bicycles
1 patch kit (The glue often dries out and the glueless patches I tried are worthless.)
1 to 3 plastic tire irons (never use a screw driver.)
Mini pump
CO2 tire inflator (optional)
1 spare tube (optional)
Wrenches for removing the wheels. Cresent wrench will do. (Unless they are quick release.)
Allen / screwdrivers tool.

I have 2 Camelbaks packs.
1 for bicycle riding, which has the tools above.
1 for off-road motorcycle riding, which has all of the above for a motorcycle and more tools.

3 Tips for tire changing.
1) If there is a nail, you know where to find the hole. Keep track of how far it is from the valve stem. This makes it easier recall where to patch the hole in the tube. (You may have water in your Camelbak or bottle, but it's hard to find a small hole without a bucket of water.) Never assume 1 hole in the tube. Pump up and test the patched tube before putting it back on the wheel. Make sure to pull the nail or thorn out of the tire. I slowly run my fingers on the inside to make sure ALL thorns or nails are gone.
2) After you use the glue, put the open end up and squeeze out all air or you'll have a solid tube of glue next time.
3) For the price of 1 or 2 beers, someone will show you how to change a tire.

Patch kit / Tools (Make sure this Swiss Army Knife like tool is enough to fix everything.) A good old Cresent wrench works wonders.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bike-Bicycle-Tire-Tyre-Repair-Kit-Tools-Patch-Rubber-/170686990325?pt=Outdoor_Toys_Structures_US&hash=item27bdbcc7f5

Allen / screw driver tool
http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1030348_-1___

Patch Kit
http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1035389_-1___

Tire levers
http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1035410_-1___
 
Hey there, pretty new around here but I'm working on my first build.
thought this might be a good place to see what you all thought about these tires.

http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/energizer_pro
 
i run marathon plus (already a highly puncture resistant tire) and Mr Tuffy tire liners.

probably overkill, but since changing to this combo, ive not had one flat in almost 2500km.

i also carry the tools (patch kit, tire irons spare tube etc) just in case.
i have a 48v compressor too.for a slow leak, i would just stop and re inflate till i get home.

for a bigger leak, ill throw in the new tube and patch the old one later.

Jason
 
KevXR said:
1 to 3 plastic tire irons (never use a screw driver.)
Click to expand...

I've used screwdrivers a few times and never had any problems. If you haven't got tyre levers to hand, you have to use whatever you've got. Some people use spoons. I once used my two house keys because it was all I had at the roadside.
 
Never use metal spoon or screwdriver on a aluminum rim definitely asking for trouble at the very least just a scratched up rim, and a little soapy water sometimes dry if I'm in a hurry but I normally just pull it off by hand it's not as bad as you would think.
 
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