((Help me please!! alternator delta conversion as a motor))

[parabellum]

only thing I would change is Battery to ESC to Stator wire, for 8-10AWG (and even then they will get hot)

You think that even with thread 8AWG, he will warm?
To put between converter tension and rotor (+), one Diode 16V 1W (because new li-po battery 4S will be less of 15V) how this one for example? :|
http://www.ebay.fr/itm/5-diodes-zen...ge_ElectroniqueComposants&hash=item417a099672 is good?

You do not need zener diode, just take any normall 1N5400 series they are from 50-1000V depending on last digit, also you can use 1 chanel of any rectification bridge, they have big body (good for heat dissipation). You can find all this in old burned power supply's and household electronics, inside right after AC entrance.

1 meter of 10AWG cooper wire will produce 20W of heat at 100A current flow, and here we are speaking about 800w power on the motor shaft, less what ever are your transmission loses. So I would be constantly in max current zone at 26kmph at 30w/km efficiency. Hope it makes sense.

 

[kejanostra]

just take any normall 1N5400 series they are from 50-1000V

I go searched in my old device, to see if I find what you recommend,
but this one would be good? :
http://www.ebay.fr/itm/10pcs-1N5400...754?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2339f6cfea

 

[parabellum]

just take any normall 1N5400 series they are from 50-1000V

I go searched in my old device, to see if I find what you recommend,
but this one would be good? :
http://www.ebay.fr/itm/10pcs-1N5400...754?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2339f6cfea

Yep. This 1 should be OK.

 

[kejanostra]

Yep. This 1 should be OK.

This diode, her to have a direction for installation?
Then if I includes, I to put the diode between output (+) converter and input (+) of rotor,
and for the more thick wire (ESC etc...) I have not need for other diode?

 

[parabellum]

Yep. This 1 should be OK.

This diode, her to have a direction for installation?
Then if I includes, I to put the diode between output (+) converter and input (+) of rotor,
and for the more thick wire (ESC etc...) I have not need for other diode?

Yes, you will need diode only between converter+ and rotor+, being diodes white ring side on rotor side.

 

[kejanostra]

Yep. This 1 should be OK.

This diode, her to have a direction for installation?
Then if I includes, I to put the diode between output (+) converter and input (+) of rotor,
and for the more thick wire (ESC etc...) I have not need for other diode?

Yes, you will need diode only between converter+ and rotor+, being diodes white ring side on rotor side.

OKEY, thank you friend :wink:

 

[kejanostra]

Hello, I think bought one as this one:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=15521

The small white grip is good to charge and discharge?
And the red grip to feed the engine, well?
But what connections buy for connect my wires 24 and 10 awg on this battery,
because I would be two diameters of different wire on the same connection of the battery?

 

[parabellum]

Hello, I think bought one as this one:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=15521

The small white grip is good to charge and discharge?
And the red grip to feed the engine, well?
But what connections buy for connect my wires 24 and 10 awg on this battery,
because I would be two diameters of different wire on the same connection of the battery?

Some members reported being able to pump up to 6 or 8 Amps to those tinny white connectors and wires, anyway I would use them for balancing only and let those discharge leads make heavy lifting. Following are the counterpart to those bullet connectors, they will permit up to 10AWG cable, some members get 8AWG in, I do not.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9283__HXT_4mm_Gold_Connector_w_Protector_10pcs_set_.html

 

[kejanostra]

Hello, I think bought one as this one:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=15521

The small white grip is good to charge and discharge?
And the red grip to feed the engine, well?
But what connections buy for connect my wires 24 and 10 awg on this battery,
because I would be two diameters of different wire on the same connection of the battery?

Some members reported being able to pump up to 6 or 8 Amps to those tinny white connectors and wires, anyway I would use them for balancing only and let those discharge leads make heavy lifting. Following are the counterpart to those bullet connectors, they will permit up to 10AWG cable, some members get 8AWG in, I do not.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9283__HXT_4mm_Gold_Connector_w_Protector_10pcs_set_.html

OK, but in this bullet connector for (ESC and Converter of tension), I could not put my two wires (+) 10 and 24 awg together, then my two wires (-) 10 and 24 awg together, you see?
Because the bullet connector (4 mm) will then be too small, no? :lol:

 

[parabellum]

Hello, I think bought one as this one:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=15521

The small white grip is good to charge and discharge?
And the red grip to feed the engine, well?
But what connections buy for connect my wires 24 and 10 awg on this battery,
because I would be two diameters of different wire on the same connection of the battery?

Some members reported being able to pump up to 6 or 8 Amps to those tinny white connectors and wires, anyway I would use them for balancing only and let those discharge leads make heavy lifting. Following are the counterpart to those bullet connectors, they will permit up to 10AWG cable, some members get 8AWG in, I do not.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9283__HXT_4mm_Gold_Connector_w_Protector_10pcs_set_.html

OK, but in this bullet connector for (ESC and Converter of tension), I could not put my two wires (+) 10 and 24 awg together, then my two wires (-) 10 and 24 awg together, you see?
Because the bullet connector (4 mm) will then be too small, no? :lol:

Just solder them on the other side or somewhere in the middle.

P.S. I mean 24awg wires.

 

[kejanostra]

Just solder them on the other side or somewhere in the middle.
P.S. I mean 24awg wires.

Possible of used this wire copper audio 4mm², instead of 10 awg?
http://www.audiophonics.fr/fr/cable...asun-ms4-cable-cuivre-ofc-2x40mm2-p-3680.html

And possible of used this wire copper audio 1.5 mm², instead of 24 awg?


If yes, then are just needed bullet connector 4mm,
but these bullet connector must be welded (with stalk of classic weld, or other?), or to pinch with strength?

 

[parabellum]

Just solder them on the other side or somewhere in the middle.
P.S. I mean 24awg wires.

Possible of used this wire copper audio 4mm², instead of 10 awg?
http://www.audiophonics.fr/fr/cable...asun-ms4-cable-cuivre-ofc-2x40mm2-p-3680.html

And possible of used this wire copper audio 1.5 mm², instead of 24 awg?


If yes, then are just needed bullet connector 4mm,
but these bullet connector must be welded (with stalk of classic weld, or other?), or to pinch with strength?

If audio cable is cooper-take it. (its just, cheap ones mostly are not) 4mm2 is something between 11 and 12 awg, they will heat little more. 4mm in those bullets is for D.
Those are regular solder type bullets, you only need good iron (100w with regular tip, or 60W with hummer tip)

 

[kejanostra]

If audio cable is cooper-take it

Yes, me already to have in my garage the wire copper audio 1.5 mm², he is good copper.

its just, cheap ones mostly are not)

You mean what? Bad wire?, him work not?

4mm2 is something between 11 and 12 awg, they will heat little more. 4mm in those bullets is for D.

I found more thick (6mm²), but not found (5mm²), but if he is too thick, not being able to him be to insert into bullet connector after.
Reassure me, the wire copper audio 4mm² make the work normally?
D= Diameter wire?

Those are regular solder type bullets, you only need good iron (100w with regular tip, or 60W with hummer tip)

Sorry, I wanted spoken of which tin solder wire to use.Because my soldering iron is 60W, and I have tin 97 % - copper 3 % weld, is good?

 

[parabellum]

Yes, me already to have in my garage the wire copper audio 1.5 mm², he is good copper.

parabellum wrote:
its just, cheap ones mostly are not)

You mean what? Bad wire?, him work not?

If it is cooper, then I consider it a good audio cable.

I found more thick (6mm²), but not found (5mm²), but if he is too thick, not being able to him be to insert into bullet connector after.
Reassure me, the wire copper audio 4mm² make the work normally?
D= Diameter wire?

Just take 1 that fits those connector housing.

Sorry, I wanted spoken of which tin solder wire to use.Because my soldering iron is 60W, and I have tin 97 % - copper 3 % weld, is good?

Must be hard stuff, have never worked with. I usually take regular 40/60 solder in lead/tin.

 

[kejanostra]

I usually take regular 40/60 solder in lead/tin

I also have weld 50 % tin, he is good not?

Which kind of these connectors is better, 1, or 2 ?:

1)http://www.ebay.fr/itm/3-UND-GOLD-B...9?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_186&hash=item3392aa11c3

2)http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...eName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
:wink:

 

[parabellum]

I usually take regular 40/60 solder in lead/tin

I also have weld 50 % tin, he is good not?

Which kind of these connectors is better, 1, or 2 ?:

1)http://www.ebay.fr/itm/3-UND-GOLD-B...9?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_186&hash=item3392aa11c3

2)http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...eName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
:wink:

Second link is without housing.
I would take from first link.

 

[kejanostra]

I would take from first link.

Why this salesman indicates this, because I need of 80A with the cap.
http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...eName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Amperage rating:
30A-40A (with cap)
50A-80A (without cap)

 

[parabellum]

I would take from first link.

Why this salesman indicates this, because I need of 80A with the cap.
http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...eName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Amperage rating:
30A-40A (with cap)
50A-80A (without cap)

Probably, because the cap stops temperature exchange with ambient and excessive heating melts the cap as concequence.

Was looking at the pictures and found the male part shorter then female. This reduces contact area. HK bullets are equal size.

 

[kejanostra]

Probably, because the cap stops temperature exchange with ambient and excessive heating melts the cap as concequence.
Was looking at the pictures and found the male part shorter then female. This reduces contact area. HK bullets are equal size.

OK, thank you.
I commanded bullet connector 4mm gold (to estimate in 93A by hobbyking), then, bullet connector 3.5mm triples (for ESC), an ECO6 charger LIPO,
and a battery 4S 20C 5000 mAh.
Adaptator alimentation is just missing for connect to charger lipo, but hobbykING not to have for Europe,
but it is no problem, I find it on eBay for small price. :wink:

 

[kejanostra]

According to the seller eBay, the manufacturing of this audio wire 4mm² is multi-stalk copper and alu, thus not the top for me!
I manage not to find this wire audio 4 mm² only with copper, strange.

I think bought this wire rc with copper tinned, because (4-4,5mm=12awg) work rate 80A :
http://www.ebay.fr/itm/12-AWG-10-Fe...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a91336e19

because I not found the audio wire 4mm with copper only (with good price!).