Help selling my bike

[iwanttogofaster]

I don't know what to sell my bike for.
It is a custom build. The frame is a Schwinn Shuttle kick scooter welded to the top half of a Murray MTN bike and a third bike triangle to compensate for the torque of the rear hub.
Hub motor is a 1500 nominal watt 26 inch. The controller is a Chinese knockoff "fardriver", smart, self learning, etc. The battery is 72v 20-50 amp. Has a thumb throttle with 3-gear selector and LED speedometer. Regular brakes, nothing fancy.
Minis the selection of hardware that I used bc of its convenience that I can swap out for more appealing material, and cleaning my "blindfold" welds n such...
Something like 32 mph for 1st, 37 mph for 2nd, and 42+ mph in 3rd. ... I've had this exact same kit on a MTN bike, minis the throttle (no gear selection, full grip twist throttle) and reached 57mph for the top speed, with it wired to the highest RPM on controller. IDK why the two are different.
Battery cost me $650 , controller $150 , hub motor $270 ish. Everything else is odds n ends... seat from a razor moped, 60s metal fender, etc.u

 

[LewTwo]

Beauty (and in this case value) is in the eye of the beholder. In most states it can not be sold as a "Electric Bicycle" because it does not have pedals (not to mention the power and speed restrictions). It lacks the DOT certified safety equipment to be sold as "moped" in most states. Where you live is a bit of a conundrum as I have no idea if the tribes recognize or follow all the state and/or Federal vehicle codes.

I would suggest that you label it an "Off Road Work of Art" and set a price somewhat higher than you would be happy to accept. You can always lower the price but raising it can be problematic.

 

[wturber]

Custom vehicles seldom fetch a good price. The problem is that the things are usually made to match a very unique individual vision or intent. It would take finding someone with a similar vision to get a decent price. When I buy used, my typical target it to pay half of what I'd pay new. So I'd probably be looking at $500 or less for the parts. I'd guess that would be the low end of expectations. But you wouldn't want to start there. The number that @LewTwo suggested is probably the place to start - even if it is way high compared to my number. Reducing price if no takers is always an option. But if you start too low, raising the price won't be an option.

 

[gromike]

If your location supports a yard sale, and draws many lookers, you could hang a for sale sign on it.
Maybe someone will wander by and fall in love. Kind of a low sell success rate, but I personally have bought quite few things in that situation.

 

[E-HP]

Some buyers may be interested in what the stopping distance is from 42mph.

 

[lnanek]

Could also add cheap pedals or ones ripped off a free donor bike. It's not like Super 72 or Ariel Rider or whatever owning folks can actually use them effectively anyway. They are only there to reduce police stops and confiscations. There's endless rusting out steel hulks around here with free ones.

Or remove the seat, raise the bars, and claim it's a scooter. Or sell the parts individually.

 

[fill]

Some buyers may be interested in what the stopping distance is from 42mph.

Re-gen braking at the back? - dont look like it.. and front rim brakes hmmm I think you NEED a hydraulic front disk brake fitting,

@iwanttogofaster - am lurvin the style, having ridden my share of Black n Tan Rat bikes.. the 'tank' 'top coat' aesthetic however is just tatty and pulls down any impressions, turn that eye sore into an eye catcher and it will raise more smiles than frowns imho

 

[molybdenum]

No mention of how old your EV is or when you built it. Need more information such as whether the battery is DIY or purchased, type of cells, reputation of battery vendor, number of charge cycles, etc. DIY batteries and AliExpress mystery batteries do not have as high resale values as batteries purchased from well known reputable vendors. A battery with 500+ charge/discharge cycles will be worth very little. Lack of pedals is a problem with legalities of operating on public roads in most areas. Best to convert to scooter or part it out imo as @lnanek suggested. You could also re-use/repurpose the battery for other builds if you part it out.

 

[AGS]

The op lives in Oklahoma.

That is a very lenient state for this kind of vehicle, so I’m sure it will be in high demand as a commuter.

A decent pair of grippy soled boots should help to bring the stopping distance down.

The luminous green paint on the motor casing is especially appealing. And the scabby welding is a nice touch.

I doubt you will find many other scooters for sale in this condition. And it looks identical to a Eahora M1P if you compare them side by side with welding goggles on.

So maybe set a price equivalent to a slightly used Eahora and see if you get any sensible offers. A new one is around $2600

Good luck with the sale, I’m sure it will generate a lot of interest.

 

[E-HP]

A decent pair of grippy soled boots should help to bring the stopping distance down.

 

[iwanttogofaster]

Re-gen braking at the back? - dont look like it.. and front rim brakes hmmm I think you NEED a hydraulic front disk brake fitting,

@iwanttogofaster - am lurvin the style, having ridden my share of Black n Tan Rat bikes.. the 'tank' 'top coat' aesthetic however is just tatty and pulls down any impressions, turn that eye sore into an eye catcher and it will raise more smiles than frowns imho

What suggestions do you have, changing what to where(?) "Tank" placement for starts.
I'd like to have re-gen on it for sure.
The front brake is all I have until I can get some "steel stick* epoxy to fill the bolt holes to keep ppl from removing them. ... seems I have an anti fan club here.

 

[iwanttogofaster]

Lmao. That's me all the way.
I've only had the brake for a week or two. Totally new concept to me. With my boots, I can do 45ish to zero in maybe 60 ft (?) I'ma have to break out the tape reel.