Help with a Lenzod controller

[wolf421]

I've been searching the net for months to repair a M365 (clone). It originally had an YouSF controller and display. (which died after about 2 months of use)
Two weeks ago I bought a Lenzod controller kit with all the replacement parts.
Followed all the installation instructions hooking up the battery last. Even though the battery is fully charged I still can't get any response from the display. I heard a pop that normally happens when connecting the battery (xt-30) connector to the controller. But still no power is reaching the display.

checked over all the connections again and everything seemed ok.

I've attached pictures of the controller for reference.

Any help would be greatly apricated.

Thanks in advance..

 

[E-HP]

Did you buy the display with the new controller? If not, it probably won’t be compatible.

 

[wolf421]

I bought it all in one kit. Controller, display, head/break light, cables, throttle.

 

[amberwolf]

I've been searching the net for months to repair a M365 (clone). It originally had an YouSF controller and display. (which died after about 2 months of use)
Two weeks ago I bought a Lenzod controller kit with all the replacement parts.
Followed all the installation instructions hooking up the battery last. Even though the battery is fully charged I still can't get any response from the display. I heard a pop that normally happens when connecting the battery (xt-30) connector to the controller. But still no power is reaching the display.

Some things that might help us help you find the root problem(s):

When the original "died", what specifically happened just before that?

What specific failure or problem did you see?

If any testing was done, what tests were they, and what were the results?

What voltage do you measure with a multimeter on the battery connector between controller and battery, with everything connected, but before trying to power on the display?

What voltage do you measure with a multimeter on the battery connector between controller and battery, with everything connected, after / during trying to power on the display?

What voltage do you measure with a multimeter on the battery connector that normally connects to the controller, with battery disconnected from everything else besides the multimeter?

 

[wolf421]

Some things that might help us help you find the root problem(s):

When the original "died", what specifically happened just before that?

What specific failure or problem did you see?

If any testing was done, what tests were they, and what were the results?

What voltage do you measure with a multimeter on the battery connector between controller and battery, with everything connected, but before trying to power on the display?

What voltage do you measure with a multimeter on the battery connector between controller and battery, with everything connected, after / during trying to power on the display?

What voltage do you measure with a multimeter on the battery connector that normally connects to the controller, with battery disconnected from everything else besides the multimeter?

I did some checking with my multimeter today... Here's what I found so far..

1. the battery unconnected shows a nice 36 volts. And with everything connected I'm only getting the 12 volts to the display on the yellow wire(see below)

The connector from controller is wired (yellow, red, black, blue, green) to the display.
The yellow wire shows 12 volts but the red and black (which should be pos+ and grd-) shows 0 volts. The blue and green shows 0 volts.
I've read elsewhere that these displays are a 5volt (don't know how true that is) But if that is true it looks like my display may have fried when I connected the battery.

Thanks

 

[amberwolf]

I did some checking with my multimeter today... Here's what I found so far..

1. the battery unconnected shows a nice 36 volts. And with everything connected I'm only getting the 12 volts to the display on the yellow wire(see below)

This almost certainly means your battery has a problem and can't take a load of any kind, so the BMS is shutting off to protect the cells from overdischarge or other overload. That can be from damaged or aged cells, phsyical damage to the pack, or an excessive current draw by the system when the battery is connected to it.

36v is at best half full for a 36v battery (42v would be full; check your charger's label for the voltage it should charge the battery to).

The yellow wire shows 12 volts but the red and black (which should be pos+ and grd-) shows 0 volts. The blue and green shows 0 volts.

That would all be correct if you only get 12v on the supply wire from the controller to the display. (see the various display troubleshooting and compatibility threads for more info on the functions of typical display wiring).

I've read elsewhere that these displays are a 5volt (don't know how true that is) But if that is true it looks like my display may have fried when I connected the battery.

Most run off battery voltage and convert that internally to whatever it uses. See above about wiring/signals.


Not having any of the other requested info, I don't have any other suggestions yet.

 

[wolf421]

This almost certainly means your battery has a problem and can't take a load of any kind, so the BMS is shutting off to protect the cells from overdischarge or other overload. That can be from damaged or aged cells, phsyical damage to the pack, or an excessive current draw by the system when the battery is connected to it.

36v is at best half full for a 36v battery (42v would be full; check your charger's label for the voltage it should charge the battery to).



That would all be correct if you only get 12v on the supply wire from the controller to the display. (see the various display troubleshooting and compatibility threads for more info on the functions of typical display wiring).



Most run off battery voltage and convert that internally to whatever it uses. See above about wiring/signals.


Not having any of the other requested info, I don't have any other suggestions yet.

I've been doing the normal adult thing called work... But I did some other checking on my scooter...
I hadn't pulled the battery out of the frame before earlier this week. Upon inspecting the battery casing I found an actual spot where the battery had burned through the blue shrink wrap.
After removing the shrink wrap I found that the spot welded bar had snapped and was arching on one of the lg 18650 cells. Now from where the break is the last eight cells of the battery was not suppling any power. (the opposite end of the battery from the bms)
This explains why my power was cutting out randomly before the original electronics died.
Thus now I have to get a new battery...
Or tear down the battery and check each cell before building a new one. But to do that I would have to buy a spot welder and other supplies to do so. (new cells, buss bars, a BMS of the proper rating etc.)
I really don't know which way would be the better choice. Buying a battery or building one...
36v 10s batteries are over $100 on Amazon and Ebay.. And with the taxes on imports it's only going to get worse.

But thanks for your help.