Laws of Three Phase Wiring?

[Vector]

Hi All, just got my box O' wheel/motor and battery from the far away shores of China and I've got some questions I wonder you might be able to help with.
The harness came completly connected and everything seems to run "ok-ish" but,,,

-Of the three phase wires the yellow is connected to the green, the green to yellow and blue to blue. Is that correct? What would happen if I lined things up?

-When the motor begins to spin there is a clicking sound that disapears once the rpm picks up. This happens only going from low rpm (stop) to high.

-The display is SW900. I'd like to use only PAS with no throttle input (0) but setting #10 doesn't seem to accept any option the throttle is still active. Normal?

-If I want to change display would I have to change controller as well?

 

[E-HP]

-Of the three phase wires the yellow is connected to the green, the green to yellow and blue to blue. Is that correct? What would happen if I lined things up?

Conductor coloring means nothing. If it's running smoothly, and you do the swap, it will either run roughly, run backwards, or not run at all.

-When the motor begins to spin there is a clicking sound that disapears once the rpm picks up. This happens only going from low rpm (stop) to high.

Can you post a video? Does the clicking increase with speed?

-The display is SW900. I'd like to use only PAS with no throttle input (0) but setting #10 doesn't seem to accept any option the throttle is still active. Normal?

Do you mean setting P10 to 1 ??

-If I want to change display would I have to change controller as well?

Most likely. Displays are manufacturer specific due to their firmware. The SW900 actually works with a few different controller makers, but the firmware is different to match the maker, so not interchangeable. It's best to purchase both as a set.

 

[ZeroEm]

The color of the phase wires does not mean anything, they need to be connected where the motor runs the best. If they were already connected that should have saved you some time figuring it out. Throttles come in handy you don't need to use it just ignore it.

 

[Vector]

Can you post a video? Does the clicking increase with speed?

- The clicking is once per rotation, from stopped there is about 2-3 secs of click then quiet, if speed drops and throttle up click returns for 2-3 secs. Just to mention there is no load (wheel is off the ground).

Do you mean setting P10 to 1 ??

My manual gives P10: (0) PAS no throttle, (1) Throttle , (2) PAS & Throttle
I get throttle in all three settings. Haven't tried pedaling yet.

Thanks for the input E-HP

 

[E-HP]

My manual gives P10: (0) PAS no throttle, (1) Throttle , (2) PAS & Throttle
I get throttle in all three settings. Haven't tried pedaling yet.

Thanks for the input E-HP

Did you try P9=0 and P10=2 ?

 

[Vector]

Did you try P9=0 and P10=2 ?

just tried that now(P9=1)(P10=0)

: throttle non-responsive at stop but live after pedaling.

here's some video: I would like it to be quieter but mabye that will change with a load.
Well because my vid is 56.3MB it is too large for the server!

Thanks again

 

[slaphappygamer]

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[amberwolf]

Clicking is often a loose nipple inside the rim, or other debris.

If it's a geared hubmotor, run offground, clicking can be the gears catching up as the motor changes speeds and cauases the clutch to engage/ disengage.

If the click is only while riding it could be a loose spoke, being detensioned on every rotation. Or a broken rim (cracked from the excessive tension required for the too-thick spokes almost all hubmotor companies use out of a tradition born of misunderstanding of how spoked wheels work).

Can also be something on the wheel touching something on the frame, a loose reflector, bent brake rotor touching caliper/pads, etc. You'd have to carefully observe exactly where the click comes from and then examine those areas / parts.

 

[Vector]

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here's some video: I would like it to be quieter but mabye that will change with a load.
Well because my vid is 56.3MB it is too large for the server!

Thanks again,

tks Slap

 

[amberwolf]

All I heave is the freewheel clicking after the motor shuts off, and what sounds like a really noisy trapezoidal controller driving the motor.

Since your PAS (well, virtually all of them, really) simply turns the motor on full (of the chosen assist level) as soon as it detects pedalling, you should use your throttle to gradually apply motor power so that you can better locate the sound by listening as the motor very very slowly rotates.

 

[Vector]

All I heave is the freewheel clicking after the motor shuts off, and what sounds like a really noisy trapezoidal controller driving the motor.

Since your PAS (well, virtually all of them, really) simply turns the motor on full (of the chosen assist level) as soon as it detects pedalling, you should use your throttle to gradually apply motor power so that you can better locate the sound by listening as the motor very very slowly rotates.

It's possible that the original clicking noise is gone after fitting the chain and now there's the controler noise. Today I'm going for my first ride and will work on tuning the PAS.
Thanks,