Help with disc brake retro fit.

I don't have any experience with stuff like that. Its an interesting looking caliper bracket, though. It looks like it puts all the brake forces through the flats on the axle. I wonder if there's enough room on the bracket to attach a torque arm that can be fastened to the frame?

In any case, you'd have to detach the brake cable to get the rear wheel off?
[EDIT] Instead of detaching the cable you could unbolt the caliper from the bracket.
 
Yes, that is what you need. But it will more or less suck, as DS pointed out. And maybe it will fit on your bike and maybe not. Using the same setup on one of my bikes, I needed to use a pile of spacer washers, and spread the dropouts quite a bit. No prob on my steel bike, but it might be an issue with yours if it's alloy, and you need a couple cm more room.

What you really want is a new disk ready motor wheel. Motor only for a nice 9c motor is not that much money. Additionally, where you really need disk is the front wheel in most situations. Since it doesn't do much on the rear tire, v brakes may be adequate for your rear. Adequate if you run 48v that is. If you are in the 40 mph club, the screw on disk mount is simply not good enough, so spend your money on the motor if you are hauling ass.

Edit. Looking closer, now I see the wierd add on brake mount. Looks sketchy as hell to me. But it might make a nice torque arm. I was assuming your frame at least had the disk mount. Just another reason to just make the front brakes good, and use v brakes in the rear.
 
That's certainly the kit for you wheel. Have you considered enabling regen braking? That's what I did on the 48V 1000W kit. You'd have to look inside your controller to see if it supports it. Still $25 for the disc brake kit is very reasonable if shipping isn't too much. Let us know how this works out, I might get one myself.
 
that disk on my bike...9c .. is not the same dia as whats standard. My pads were not making full contact, they were to high by roughly .25 inch. On another bike I sheard the hub off of 2 different covers, with in hours of using, Gator 6 piston hydralic, FWIW
 
cassschr1 said:
.. I sheard the hub off of 2 different covers, with in hours of using, Gator 6 piston hydralic, FWIW

So are you saying the screw on disc brake mount is not strong anough to cope with a good hydraulic brake caliper and the threaded part sheared off the motor case?
 
People have sheared off the aluminum threaded section on the other side just PEDALING hard, and braking forces can be many times that instantaneous power/torque, so it's no surprise that it can happen to thread-on disc brakes.

Newer motors sometimes (often, now?) have steel threaded inserts instead, so they may well not have the same problem.

FWIW, I have what is probably that same disc kit (except for the caliper/axle mount bracket); it's the same one ebike-kit.com used to sell. As reported above, it will "work" with the riveted-on threaded mount, but it will not work on standard ISO disc brake rotor mounts on a normal hub (or an ISO-drilled hubmotor), because it's holes are drilled in a larger BCD by a few millimeters than ISO standard.
 
OR
Just swap out your fork for one with disc brake mounts and use disc on the front and v-brake on the rear. Use the cartridge type V-brake pads that have an alloy backing plate and replaceable pads as these have more stopping power over the solid rubber type.
 
Get this adapter from Ebikes.ca

DiskAdapter.jpg
It's about half way down the page I linked. It's a bit pricey at 35 bucks but it allows you to use a standard rotor and caliper instead of a screw on POS.

I have the same motor and I currently only use regen on it but I'm going to get that adapter and hook up my Avid BB5 soon. There's a ton of clearance with the BB5's so I should be able to shim if needed to get good alignment. Good Luck

Gary
 
Early on I had one of these hubs/discs and it was a pain. Actually – it was dang near useless unless you purchase the Chinese calipers et al. Before you put that disc on, I strongly recommend applying anti-seize grease, like plumbers use with piping, and this will prevent galling during installation. Eventually you may wish to replace the disc – all things being temporary, and without the grease applied to the threads – you may be stuck. :eek:

I did not opt for the Chinese calipers because (with regards to quality) it would have been the weakest link in my setup, and to me – brakes are as important as my retirement portfolio. :wink: With that, it took a while before I settled on another hub design, not that much better mind you – but at least it wasn’t a threaded-jobby.

When yer new to the hobby it’s difficult to know what is a good buy and what is um, well… not worth the trouble. If you don’t plan to ride too often and not go far, that would be a thrifty solution.

My $0.02, KF
 
On one of my bikes I've got a front v brake,a rear v brake and rear bb7 w/203 rotor ALL ON THE RIGHT BRAKE LEVER Now I can finally lock the rear wheel at 40 mph if I want to. Front also has gator 6 piston with 203.
 
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