Henry111's free tech support thread

[nutnspecial]

You can't use a 65V battery, whether nominal or fully charged voltage, without expecting to pop something in the controller, most probably a capacitor.

Thanks for the correction! Although without knowing what caps they are can we be sure?

I was under the assumption that most '48v' controllers used 65v caps, and people have had no problems running 15s on typical 1kw hub setups.

 

[999zip999]

Yes controllers brouth in wesnell or dr.angle threads. I follow in somebody's elsa's footsteps. It's easier.

 

[spinningmagnets]

You can pull the controller apart, and try to find readable part numbers on the capacitors, hope that they aren't counterfeit that was re-labeled, and then realize that even after all of that, whoever manufactured those capacitors used a substance for the insulator that's made from "Chinesium".

 

[Adverse Effects]

if you do open it your looking for things like

View attachment 1

 

[Henry111]

When the motored wheel is turned by hand it stutters, knock, knock, etc.
Can someone please explain. And is this a bad thing?

 

[nutnspecial]

Perhaps you mean 'cogging'? That's pretty standard among direct drive hubs, while 'cocking' is pretty standard with, ummmm, well it's not usually bike related :wink:

 

[flangefrog]

If you are getting fairly hard cogging where some of the "steps" are harder than others then it can mean two phase wires are shorted together - often this is caused by a failed mosfet in the controller. If everything is working fine then I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[Henry111]

Thanks all. It is running fine and stopped c.......ing.
And I am sure glad you folks explained the difference, 'cause I was really getten confused.

 

[dogman dan]

You had a temporary short? While the wires were unplugged? Shocking the first time you have that isn't it.

 

[2old]

Hopefully, you won't have a "short' with the other activity.