Hi power inverter for Nissan leaf motor. Dyno's 302.3hp p15
- Thread starter Arlo1
- Start date
Thanks and yes other then the shaking (which needs a different encoder or something added to the code) its running awesome. I even just got the speedo partially working.HighHopes said:
Regen has 2 inputs 1 is the throttle and the other is a pot I put on the dash.
The throttle values I put in the brain are +1.3 for accel and -.4 for regen that means with the throttle all the way down and the regen knob off it will give me full power but the last little bit of throttle movement doesn't do anything it will just be full torque.
Or If I crank the regen then I can only get .9 (90%) torque at full throttle and the first portion of the throttle is variable regen.
Or I can set the regen knob anyware in the middle.
I can also adjust the regen knob while I drive to vary the throttle resolution and to vary regen.
You might consider putting a sensor on the brake pedal for regen input. Having a slight regen at zero throttle is nice and simulates engine braking in a normal car. Going to a higher level of regen when you touch the brake pedal makes it intuitive. This is how my Honda hybrid behaves. I find it's nice to have a coasting mode that doesn't require much driver skill.
fechter said:
You must have not understood what I explained.
Its all adjustable. But 1 foot driving is actually very intuitive I love the fact that if I take my foot all the way off the throttle it slows down fast.
But the throttle it self is variable regen and the amount of regen at the start of the throttle depends on the settings and the pot adjustment on the dash.
I try not to use the mechanical brakes at all cost. If you are using mechanical brakes energy is being wasted.
Also need to point out for now I have a brake light switch on the throttle so when the throttle is at ~3% or less the brake lights are on. This is needed in the least. In Time I will add brake lights based on negative torque. But because my foot stays over the throttle or slightly pushing it I want the brake lights coming on early enough for drivers behind me to see.
I see.
I had a scooter set up like that once, but I didn't really like it since instinct is to totally let off the throttle in many instances and it would go into full braking. I preferred having it go into a coasting mode when I let off the throttle.
On the Honda, if I press on the brake pedal just enough to make the brake lights come on, it goes into strong regen but this is before the friction brakes make contact. Same setup on my bike. It's activated by the brake switch.
I suppose it's a matter of preference and a learning curve.
I had a scooter set up like that once, but I didn't really like it since instinct is to totally let off the throttle in many instances and it would go into full braking. I preferred having it go into a coasting mode when I let off the throttle.
On the Honda, if I press on the brake pedal just enough to make the brake lights come on, it goes into strong regen but this is before the friction brakes make contact. Same setup on my bike. It's activated by the brake switch.
I suppose it's a matter of preference and a learning curve.
fechter said:
The way I have it set up is like a nissan leaf or tesla. Its very intuitive. I used to think like you do. But taking you foot off the throttle means you want less acceleration which is what you get. I now hate having to move my foot over to the other peddle you can react much faster by just letting off the throttle.
If you ask anyone who has spent any time in a leaf or a tesla they will tell you this is the best way. It makes most sense and provides a much better driving experiance.
I would hate to have abrupt regen on a switch. This is variable and so smooth!
I got the startup much smoother.
I was and still am very afraid of having the current sensor offset at 0 this used to trip the desat on me and has caused the controller to blow a IGBT in the past. Anyways for now this made it smooth.
I think I can make it better by editing the HEX to put them all at -100mv
I notice in the video you can here it well. But it is about 90% better and I drove it around after the video and I am very happy with it.
I will see if I can make it 100% but if not this is ok
[youtube]DnMoMR6Q2oo[/youtube]
I was and still am very afraid of having the current sensor offset at 0 this used to trip the desat on me and has caused the controller to blow a IGBT in the past. Anyways for now this made it smooth.
I think I can make it better by editing the HEX to put them all at -100mv
I notice in the video you can here it well. But it is about 90% better and I drove it around after the video and I am very happy with it.
I will see if I can make it 100% but if not this is ok
[youtube]DnMoMR6Q2oo[/youtube]
izeman
1 GW
How do you do desat control?
Its built into the ACPL337 chip.izeman said:
What is does it pushes a current out into the positive side of the power switch you are controlling with that driver and it measures a voltage drop.
You need to set it up with a blanking cap and Zerner diode for the right (low current) and voltage for a save current for your power switch and a fast diode facing the other way right at the switch to block high voltage from coming back.
If you look at the data sheets it will show you how it connects in the diagram.
Then on the isolated digital input side of the driver chip it has a digital 0-5v out for fault signals which you must have something watching to shut down the controller in the event of a fault.
Then I manged to get out for the first time and run beside against a ICE.
The other car is funny because its a Caliber Srt4 which is a turbo 4cyl and I used to own the Neon Srt4.
The guy came in driving like a idot then ripped out of there.... Then came back and parked in a weird spot when people were out drifting. So I drove up to him as asked if he wanted to race. [b]He said what do you have in that thing. I said 1.5 liter but I put a cam in it[/b].... as I pulled up silently and he was clueless. So I figured he seemed a little off and at first I thought maybe he had been drinking so I figured as long as I stay out front I'm ok.
He said he had his car "tuned and it runs 21 psi boost" and also just got a intake put on it.
Anyways this is still at about 1/2 power and on Nitto neo-gen tires which I like to use for the daily driving tires. I have no cooling hooked up even yet.
I found it would not spin the tires after so I think repeated back to back runs will require cooling.
But a good day non the less.
[youtube]n_b4mbfw9vY[/youtube]
The other car is funny because its a Caliber Srt4 which is a turbo 4cyl and I used to own the Neon Srt4.
The guy came in driving like a idot then ripped out of there.... Then came back and parked in a weird spot when people were out drifting. So I drove up to him as asked if he wanted to race. [b]He said what do you have in that thing. I said 1.5 liter but I put a cam in it[/b].... as I pulled up silently and he was clueless. So I figured he seemed a little off and at first I thought maybe he had been drinking so I figured as long as I stay out front I'm ok.
He said he had his car "tuned and it runs 21 psi boost" and also just got a intake put on it.
Anyways this is still at about 1/2 power and on Nitto neo-gen tires which I like to use for the daily driving tires. I have no cooling hooked up even yet.
I found it would not spin the tires after so I think repeated back to back runs will require cooling.
But a good day non the less.
[youtube]n_b4mbfw9vY[/youtube]
Lebowski
10 MW
Arlo1 said:
So you have no cooling yet for the IGBT's other than just the alu they are attached too ? I mean nice they can run so much current without cooling !
And you had the accelleration limiter on ? I think I still hear the tires slipping though ?
Did you have a look at the battery voltage ? Maybe the LVC came in ?
Anyways, cool results
a rolling burnout halfway through the run would have really put the opponent in his place but would have costs you the tires....
Doctorbass
100 GW
Really Nice work Arlo 
and thanks for posting a video of a race! it's been about 2 years now that you are working on that project, thats cool to see your first race!
You really must race in the NEDRA!! i would be curious to see witch category you would be in.
Beating gas is too easy now... your next step is beating electric!
Here are the actual record holders: http://www.nedra.com/record_holders.html
Doc
and thanks for posting a video of a race! it's been about 2 years now that you are working on that project, thats cool to see your first race!You really must race in the NEDRA!! i would be curious to see witch category you would be in.
Beating gas is too easy now... your next step is beating electric!
Here are the actual record holders: http://www.nedra.com/record_holders.html
Doc
Lebowski said:Arlo1 said:
So you have no cooling yet for the IGBT's other than just the alu they are attached too ? I mean nice they can run so much current without cooling !
And you had the accelleration limiter on ? I think I still hear the tires slipping though ?
Did you have a look at the battery voltage ? Maybe the LVC came in ?
Anyways, cool results
The battery was sagging to 385v and I started the run at 440v
The controller temp was likely warm by the end but I have the thermal cuts starting at 75 deg with 20a per deg C
The acceleration limiter is set to 10kerpm and 12kerpm so it will allow 0-60 in just under 3 sec I find it lets me spin but I can just slightly roll off the throttle and regain traction. But unfortunately I had a noisy ICE beside me and I could not tell....
I do my launch with the regen nob at 50% and that reduces the tire spin a lot so I can get going then slowly turn the regen pot to 0 to allow full power.
Next time out I will turn the power up with warmer batteries and put the slicks on...
Thanks Doc and 3 years.... Since I started this.Doctorbass said:Really Nice work Arlo
You really must race in the NEDRA!! i would be curious to see witch category you would be in.
Beating gas is too easy now... your next step is beating electric!
Here are the actual record holders: http://www.nedra.com/record_holders.html
Doc
It would be SC A4 or A3.
I don't see any competition for that level as right now its in the 12s Soon 11s and 10s are possible.
More to come I am just getting started.
Doctorbass
100 GW
Arlo1 said:Thanks Doc and 3 years.... Since I started this.Doctorbass said:Really Nice work Arlo
You really must race in the NEDRA!! i would be curious to see witch category you would be in.
Beating gas is too easy now... your next step is beating electric!
Here are the actual record holders: http://www.nedra.com/record_holders.html
Doc
It would be SC A4 or A3.
I don't see any competition for that level as right now its in the 12s Soon 11s and 10s are possible.
More to come I am just getting started.
yeah 3 years!... alot and alot of work!
lok like we are both to be in teh 12s on the 1/4 :wink: what are the time on the 1/8 ? my best was 7.3s
I got a Vbox from my work.. that tool will be awsome for the time i can not go to teh drag strip.
I discussed with Biff about the 75-7 and he sais the 4 turn i have can take 1200A phase so i would be curious to see it with dual size 6 tuned to 600A phase.
do you know if using tghe UVW affect performance compare to sin cos as you needed to use UVW to use dual controller? dual sin/cos would be awsome but appear to be more complicated
Doc
Doctorbass
100 GW
Arlo1 said:
I have tried these for android but i found none to be very accurate
best is to get a used Vbox from ebay...
Doctorbass said:Arlo1 said:
I have tried these for android but i found none to be very accurate
best is to get a used Vbox from ebay...
Barf
Best is to use the speedo I hooked to the rear wheel and a stop watch. Then get it as good as I can then head to the track.
SplinterOz
1 kW
Arlo1 said:
Thanks for all your work mate.
Hooked up the liquid cooling today. Controller and motor stay icy cool. Turned the Battery amps up to 550 and the feild weakening up to 450 amps Still have the Phase amps set to 650. At a full charge it sags about 60v which is not bad. 410x550 is a LOT
Anyways I will try to get video soon it the rain I can do the $100 bill trick and at 110 with the same tires it spins at 110km/h
I only origanly planned for this much power and that was with 1MBI800U4B-120 IGBTs and Right now I am running 1MBI600U4B-120 IGBTs which are rated for 25% less at 80 deg C....
Soon I will put the more powerfull IGBTs in and crank it up some more!
Anyways I will try to get video soon it the rain I can do the $100 bill trick and at 110 with the same tires it spins at 110km/h
I only origanly planned for this much power and that was with 1MBI800U4B-120 IGBTs and Right now I am running 1MBI600U4B-120 IGBTs which are rated for 25% less at 80 deg C....
Soon I will put the more powerfull IGBTs in and crank it up some more!
liveforphysics
100 TW
Arlo1 said:Hooked up the liquid cooling today. Controller and motor stay icy cool. Turned the Battery amps up to 550 and the feild weakening up to 450 amps Still have the Phase amps set to 650. At a full charge it sags about 60v which is not bad. 410x550 is a LOT
Anyways I will try to get video soon it the rain I can do the $100 bill trick and at 110 with the same tires it spins at 110km/h
I only origanly planned for this much power and that was with 1MBI800U4B-120 IGBTs and Right now I am running 1MBI600U4B-120 IGBTs which are rated for 25% less at 80 deg C....
Soon I will put the more powerfull IGBTs in and crank it up some more!
Your controller progress has been thrilling to watch evolve Arlin. I'm so proud of you! I'm willing to buy a 2015+ Lizard pack LEAF just to fit it with your incredible controller.