Hi power inverter for Nissan leaf motor. Dyno's 302.3hp p15

[izeman]

I just noticed you are in Vancouver. when do you want to go for a ride?

damn. never had a bigger wish to be canadian than now! unfortunately i'm 8.500km away ...

 

[charlesmcnall]

Luke, you would ditch all Leaf systems in doing that right...? Including the bms which I think limits to around 275A? I want to do the same it just sounds like a huge PITA. Please try! :wink:

I also was planning on swapping the leaf IGBTs and swapping the current sensors also to make it think it was drawing less current.
Do you know if the battery BMS/ current sensor has a battery over current shutdown? or does it purely just limit phase amps?

 

[Arlo1]

Luke, you would ditch all Leaf systems in doing that right...? Including the bms which I think limits to around 275A? I want to do the same it just sounds like a huge PITA. Please try! :wink:

I also was planning on swapping the leaf IGBTs and swapping the current sensors also to make it think it was drawing less current.
Do you know if the battery BMS/ current sensor has a battery over current shutdown? or does it purely just limit phase amps?

Have you seen the guts of a OEM leaf inverter? I don't know of any replacement igbts you can just swap out..... Nissan does a lot of stuff to limit the power you can't trick it very easy.

 

[kiwifiat]

I just noticed you are in Vancouver. when do you want to go for a ride?

I used a motorcycle sprocket and cut the middle out. Its 48tooth If I can make 110km/h ok with 48 I might make it 24 tooth. But I want to be sure I can read at 210-220 km/h. I will try to get time to test this as well. I have a new code splinter has given me I will test a bit more and share.
I would say splinter gets the credit for the code. I just did a bunch of digging on online and found snipits and put them together till I saw the gauges working Then I asked for help when I found that was not good enough.

Next time I'm on the island I'll be knocking on your door for sure. At 250km/h a 24 tooth pickup will produce a 908Hz signal which is more than fast enough to calculate speed and it gives 76mm resolution on distance. I am having a play with the nextion IDE and simulator so I should have something next week. I slowed screen updates to 12.5Hz and it still looks pretty good.

 

[Arlo1]

Awesome thanks. Today I ground off every second tooth. Part of the reason I want as many teeth as possible is I want to use the speedo to read 0-60 times. I had it up to 160 tonight. More testing tomorrow. After finding some issues with 1 current sensor and the way the signal was getting to the brain I was able to increase the power to 700 phase amps 600 battery and 450 field weakening. At this power I pinned it at 60 and it spun the tires till it hooked up at 100km/h then slamed me into the seat as it rocketed to 160 where I let off the throttle.

Tomorrow I try 750a phase 650a battery and 500a field weakening and slicks !

 

[kiwifiat]

Awesome thanks. Today I ground off every second tooth. Part of the reason I want as many teeth as possible is I want to use the speedo to read 0-60 times. I had it up to 160 tonight. More testing tomorrow. After finding some issues with 1 current sensor and the way the signal was getting to the brain I was able to increase the power to 700 phase amps 600 battery and 450 field weakening. At this power I pinned it at 60 and it spun the tires till it hooked up at 100km/h then slamed me into the seat as it rocketed to 160 where I let off the throttle.

Tomorrow I try 750a phase 650a battery and 500a field weakening and slicks !

60 MPH is 96Km/h which equates to 0.0028671875 s between pulses with a 24 tooth wheel and tyre circ of 1.835m Should be easy using micros() to measure the interval in the interrupt routine and report total time elapsed to get your 0-60. I'm really looking forward to a ride!

 

[Arlo1]

This is with 0 field weakening... I had tried 750 phase amps and I can't get the slicks to hook up at 750 phase amps no matter how many burnouts I do.
At the track it will be much more sticky so I will hope to turn it up more.
I also auto completed the current menu and forgot the field weakening at 0 So at 100 the current falls off fast. And top speed was 130 anyways it was a fun night.

Strapped the front end as well

[youtube]hL2T0bsk804[/youtube]

 

[fechter]

Wow, that thing really moves!

What about some kind of automatic traction control to keep it from breaking loose?

 

[Arlo1]

Wow, that thing really moves!

What about some kind of automatic traction control to keep it from breaking loose?

Thanks

and in time.

Part of why the speed is read from the rear wheel is so I can do traction control.

 

[HighHopes]

grrr... ontario changed registration rules for homebuilts. now must have all the safety things of modern cars such as electronic stability control. now i have to draw a box in my block diagram to include this. bit of a nanny state over here. hope you register your vehicle before the new rulez apply in BC too!

 

[Arlo1]

grrr... ontario changed registration rules for homebuilts. now must have all the safety things of modern cars such as electronic stability control. now i have to draw a box in my block diagram to include this. bit of a nanny state over here. hope you register your vehicle before the new rulez apply in BC too!

No need. My insurance guy asked the higher up people at ICBC. They said as long as its got 2 or more original Vin plates/decals it can stay insured as a Honda CRX. But the value for collision will not be more then the book value of the crx. That doesn't matter to me I just put the bare min I need on the car to be allowed on the road.

 

[kiwifiat]

I have been playing about with the Nextion editor and simulator and one of things I have noticed is that is really easy to overflow the receive buffer and that once that happens the display does not respond in real time to updates. There is quite a bit of dialog on the Nextion forum about screen updates and it seems that some users have struggles to get more than around 3Hz update rate for more complex gui designs. I setup a mock-up with two gauges and four numerical fields and found that if I update them all at the same time then the display becomes unresponsive. I have added a couple of addition variables to the Nextion design and a timer to trigger requests. The time event is counted and I take a modulus 3 of the count variable and send an update request for the gauges every trigger and an update for the numerical fields once every 3 timer events. This has made the screen much more responsive to updates and the gauges get the priority.

Here is the main loop code I'm running on the arduino end that calls the gauge update function and the numerical field update as requested.

void loop() {
  byte inByte;
  if (Serial.available()) {   //wait for a data request from nextion display and assign to inByte
    inByte = Serial.read();
   
  }
  if (inByte == 36) {         // if data request is "$" update gauges only
    DashUpdate();
  };

  if (inByte == 33) {         // if data request is "!" update number fields

    LcdUpdate();

  }




}

Can you tell me if you have the enhanced Nextion 7" or the standard edition? It is a pity we are not a bit closer as it would be really helpful to have access to the actual Nextion device as I am wondering how well the simulator mimics the real thing.

 

[Arlo1]

I have been playing about with the Nextion editor and simulator and one of things I have noticed is that is really easy to overflow the receive buffer and that once that happens the display does not respond in real time to updates. There is quite a bit of dialog on the Nextion forum about screen updates and it seems that some users have struggles to get more than around 3Hz update rate for more complex gui designs. I setup a mock-up with two gauges and four numerical fields and found that if I update them all at the same time then the display becomes unresponsive. I have added a couple of addition variables to the Nextion design and a timer to trigger requests. The time event is counted and I take a modulus 3 of the count variable and send an update request for the gauges every trigger and an update for the numerical fields once every 3 timer events. This has made the screen much more responsive to updates and the gauges get the priority.

Here is the main loop code I'm running on the arduino end that calls the gauge update function and the numerical field update as requested.

void loop() {
  byte inByte;
  if (Serial.available()) {   //wait for a data request from nextion display and assign to inByte
    inByte = Serial.read();
   
  }
  if (inByte == 36) {         // if data request is "$" update gauges only
    DashUpdate();
  };

  if (inByte == 33) {         // if data request is "!" update number fields

    LcdUpdate();

  }




}

Can you tell me if you have the enhanced Nextion 7" or the standard edition? It is a pity we are not a bit closer as it would be really helpful to have access to the actual Nextion device as I am wondering how well the simulator mimics the real thing.

Cool thanks for looking into this.
Nextion Enhanced NX8048K070 - Generic 7.0'' HMI Touch Display
Its best to play with something loose rather then whats in my car as I daily drive it

 

[Lebowski]

Can you tell me if you have the enhanced Nextion 7" or the standard edition? It is a pity we are not a bit closer as it would be really helpful to have access to the actual Nextion device as I am wondering how well the simulator mimics the real thing.

I see your dial only goes up to a measly 100kW ?

 

[Arlo1]

I see your dial only goes up to a measly 100kW ?

Lol yeah.. I am putting 610-620 amps in at 410v under load with plans to go to 750 amps on this setup.

So the KW gauge would need to be higher.
In fact I might change mine around to have an analog Kw and an analog Amp gauge.

 

[grindz145]

I see your dial only goes up to a measly 100kW ?

Lol yeah.. I am putting 610-620 amps in at 410v under load with plans to go to 750 amps on this setup.

So the KW gauge would need to be higher.
In fact I might change mine around to have an analog Kw and an analog Amp gauge.

This is potentially my favorite project on ES, and generally speaking, I frocking hate cars. It's just that badass!

 

[liveforphysics]

I see your dial only goes up to a measly 100kW ?

Lol yeah.. I am putting 610-620 amps in at 410v under load with plans to go to 750 amps on this setup.

So the KW gauge would need to be higher.
In fact I might change mine around to have an analog Kw and an analog Amp gauge.

This is potentially my favorite project on ES, and generally speaking, I frocking hate cars. It's just that badass!

+1!

 

[grindz145]

I see your dial only goes up to a measly 100kW ?

Lol yeah.. I am putting 610-620 amps in at 410v under load with plans to go to 750 amps on this setup.

So the KW gauge would need to be higher.
In fact I might change mine around to have an analog Kw and an analog Amp gauge.

This is potentially my favorite project on ES, and generally speaking, I frocking hate cars. It's just that badass!

+1!

And I learn that Luke uses ES with the swear filter on .... :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[kiwifiat]

I see your dial only goes up to a measly 100kW ?

Lol yeah.. I am putting 610-620 amps in at 410v under load with plans to go to 750 amps on this setup.

So the KW gauge would need to be higher.
In fact I might change mine around to have an analog Kw and an analog Amp gauge.

if you think 100KW is funny you will think this is hilarious:

But then it is only for my A2B. The pointer sweep on the gauge that I am using on the Nextion display is 270 degrees and the scale can read whatever you want. If you tell me what the maximum power delivered by the battery is I can set it up appropriately. In all seriously unless we map out efficiency at each operating point and make adjustments to the power reading we are only measuring power delivered by the battery not power to the road, so it is all just a bit of fun having a visual display of power delivered by the battery. Speed on the other hand is important and we want that to be as accurate as possible.

 

[Arlo1]

Knowing the power into the system is very important to me. If all the sudden it's using power when it's not supposed to that's bad VERY bad. Also if the power is low into the system I need to figure out why. Is it a weak battery ? A bad connection? Cold batteries? Something set wrong in the controller? It's very useful. When I went to race the 370z I forgot to set field weakening to 450amps and I could see the kW fall off at 100km/h...
But also at full throttle at 130km/h it was still using 60kw so I need to look into that as I expected it to be 20-30kw at 130km/h

 

[Arlo1]

I see your dial only goes up to a measly 100kW ?

Lol yeah.. I am putting 610-620 amps in at 410v under load with plans to go to 750 amps on this setup.

So the KW gauge would need to be higher.
In fact I might change mine around to have an analog Kw and an analog Amp gauge.

This is potentially my favorite project on ES, and generally speaking, I frocking hate cars. It's just that badass!

+1!

Thanks guys. It's my favorite thread too
More to come for sure.

 

[kiwifiat]

Knowing the power into the system is very important to me. If all the sudden it's using power when it's not supposed to that's bad VERY bad. Also if the power is low into the system I need to figure out why. Is it a weak battery ? A bad connection? Cold batteries? Something set wrong in the controller? It's very useful. When I went to race the 370z I forgot to set field weakening to 450amps and I could see the kW fall off at 100km/h...
But also at full throttle at 130km/h it was still using 60kw so I need to look into that as I expected it to be 20-30kw at 130km/h

This should satisfy the lust for speed and power:

 

[Arlo1]

Lol cool. I will work on mine more later. I like the see though background.
you will notice they don't like to start at 0 lol. Takes some math to make that work.

Also I need to get my amp gauge to zero when I first turn the car on. I will try giving the current sensor a clean regulated 5v exactly first as right now I am letting it get 5v from the arduino supply. That should help a lot.

 

[kiwifiat]

Lol cool. I will work on mine more later. I like the see though background.
you will notice they don't like to start at 0 lol. Takes some math to make that work.

Also I need to get my amp gauge to zero when I first turn the car on. I will try giving the current sensor a clean regulated 5v exactly first as right now I am letting it get 5v from the arduino supply. That should help a lot.

Yes it is strange that the pointer starts at 3 O'clock on the nextion, it is the same with java and I wouldn't be surprised that the arm cpu used on the nextion is running embedded java. I can give you any background you want just pm me the image you want. I set the resolution to 800x480 that matches the nextion version you have. Also some options for the color of the gauge faces and some with integrated LCD's. I should get a chance to test your interrupt code over the next few days or so.

 

[kiwifiat]

Take a look at this site and let me know if anything suits:

https://harmoniccode.blogspot.ca/2010/08/java-swing-component-library.html