Hi so first post ever... hub motor beeping and failing under load

[Bobosquaropantaloons]

Had to open the case and re wire the hub sensors wires... ihave an 18a peak chinse controller running on 48v
Tried it under load and it makes a beepong sound and cuts power... what do i do?
*update.... tried disconnecting the hall sensors entirely.. using only 3 phase wires... still doind same thing...it runs under load for a second.. then beeps and cuts off...

 

[pwd]

What are the specifications of your battery pack. Is it able to supply the 18 Amps of current to the controller? It is possible the controller's low voltage cutoff is being triggered.

 

[AngryBob]

Describe your motor, controller, and display with as much detail as possible.

Describe the reasons why you rewired the Hall wires. What EXACTLY were the symptoms displayed BEFORE this was done?

What procedure is followed to restore functionality after it cuts off? Does the display go blank? Turn it off then on again? Wait a few minutes?

If you have not yet tried waiting 3-5 minutes after the cut off while doing ABSOLUTELY NOTHING, try that and describe results.

Desctribe your battery pack, age, and charging procedure in some detail. Was this purchased new, or used? Describe length of charge, voltage readings, and especially if an extended charge has been performed. Voltage readings from both battery and charger, as well.

Additional information from you will allow a more useful diagnosis than "it seems to be defective".

 

[Bobosquaropantaloons]

Ok so.. about every thing is second hand or used...
It is a 48v 15AH battpack.. during tests it may have been low on voltage... around 41v
Its a cheap chiniese controller.. i think its rated to 9a continues and 18 a peak (but not sure as im not home to verify .. and sticker have rubbed off) i do have other motors and controllers.. and battery to test if needed.
Its a used bldc motor.. which ive been told is rated to 350w... ive boght it as a replacment to the last motor of my tltboard.. which fried itself...
Im not using the rotor with gear assemley in its original casing but in the casing of the old motorwheel
The reason ive had to rewire the leads inside the motor is because it spinned in place and cut its own wires... inclouding the phase wires...
id like to upload photos if i can.. how would i go about doing so?
And seeing that im new here id very mouch aprishiate any good tips and advice..and will like some good recommandations to reliable programmable and powerful.. motors controlles and batterry setup.. if theres a diy set or a diy bldc controller thats perfect for me.. trying to learn by doing.. and tring to save money at the same time

 

[AngryBob]

OK, well, let's start with the battery. Full charge numbers should be 50.4 for 12S, 54.6 for 13S, or 58.8 for 14S. ASSuming that the charger actually matches the battery, Note carefully the big ASS, then the very first thing to do is to charge the battery.

If you had answered my question on what EXACTLY you do to get it to turn on after failure, I could be a bit more accurate here but you did not, so I have to ASSume, Note again the big ASS.

If you get 41V at full charge, something has gone horribly wrong and you should take Immediate fire prevention precautions.

Instructions for posting pictures have been posted dozens of times here, search for them, find them, read them, follow instructions.

Next, instructions and procedures for determining correct order for phase and hall wires have similarly been posted here many, many, many times. Search for them. Find them. Read AT LEAST three, study them, if you do not see the important caution about how to avoid potential serious damage during testing, search some more, find some more, repeat until that requirement is met.

It is highly likely that your first motor did not "fry itself" and what actually destroyed it is related to the above paragraph.

As for what kit would be perfect for you, I cannot specify as I have absolutely no idea what it is you are trying to achieve.

Other advice, used kits should be extremely de-valued unless you know in detail how to examine and test and used batteries should be considered as damn near worthless as you cannot know the usage history, not to mention cell types, brand names, construction methods, quality control, etc.

I am ASSuming, Note once more the big ASS, that you have learned to make certain the motor is securely attached before powering up.

Also, question why you swapped the motor shell for the current replacement? Brand names, markings, type of motor? WTF is a tit board, pretty certain it is not the same thing my ex had, but that would be ASSuming again, and there was definitely a big ASS involved.

Important note: when finding the instructions for determining correct phase and Hall order, look also for testing for shorts, as this is extremely likely after a spinout incident.