High power RC motor and drive unit production
- Thread starter recumpence
- Start date
Haha, Hangdog you crack me up :lol: Matt's motor is the 4035/5y. You can find the specs on the first post of the thread below. I think the 4y would actually be a lot better if you can get the gearing right. Matt wants ultimate efficiency, and the 5y has it's sweet spot exactly where Matt's average power sits. So he'll get great range at the sacrifice of overload capability.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=952325
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=952325
recumpence
1 GW
Mark,
I can set you up in either respect! Got lots of Corona upgrades here.
Matt
I can set you up in either respect! Got lots of Corona upgrades here.
Matt
GGoodrum
1 MW
recumpence said:More bling!
You can see CNCAdict's 40mm motor here along with some more drive pics. Also shown is the secondary chain drive adjustable idler.
I have almost all CNC machining for the first 12 drives completed. There are frame/swingarm mounts to be made yet along with the FW adaptors.
Fun, fun, fun!
Matt
I just wet myself a little...
Can't wait!
That is an extremely elegant design.
From the beginning I wanted to go this route. Then I get tired of waiting and think I'll just go with a hotrod hub motor.
Then you flash the goods and I think, "What am I crazy!" This is the real deal, low weight - high power.
Really impressive.
Rob
From the beginning I wanted to go this route. Then I get tired of waiting and think I'll just go with a hotrod hub motor.
Then you flash the goods and I think, "What am I crazy!" This is the real deal, low weight - high power.
Really impressive.
Rob
dimitrib90
100 W
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2008
- Messages
- 142
Does any think that one of these RC motors could have enough power to run a motorcycle?
dimitrib90 said:
Well, as long as the motor has sufficient cooling, you can really pump as much power as you want through it(assuming you're not over-saturating the magnets, which rc motors usually don't get close to.). Talking more realistically, a motorcycle only really needs ~10kW-15kW to go 60+ mph, and there are a few out there that can continuously put out that much and more are becoming available.
dimitrib90
100 W
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwODx028_Jw
I was thinking about doing something like this guy except I have no idea how he did it.
I was thinking about doing something like this guy except I have no idea how he did it.
recumpence
1 GW
GGoodrum said:recumpence said:More bling!
You can see CNCAdict's 40mm motor here along with some more drive pics. Also shown is the secondary chain drive adjustable idler.
I have almost all CNC machining for the first 12 drives completed. There are frame/swingarm mounts to be made yet along with the FW adaptors.
Fun, fun, fun!
Matt
I just wet myself a little...
Can't wait!
For old guys like you, they make products for "Bladder control problems". :wink:
My products are designed to cause drooling.
C'Mon, Gary, after a comment like that, you gotta expect me to have some kind of come back!
Glad to like shiney bling!
There will be a plastic or rubber wheel mounted to the idler bearings shown in the pics. Other than that, the FW adaptors and frame mounts are all the is left to make. I know these will sell quickly. Run #2 will be a lot quicker to make due to R&D being finished. All what would be required is a week or two of Dave's time to run the HAAS for more parts.
Matt
GGoodrum
1 MW
recumpence said:
Ouch! Geez, I'm not that old! <hides AARP card...>
recumpence said:My products are designed to cause drooling.
C'Mon, Gary, after a comment like that, you gotta expect me to have some kind of come back!
Well, at least I will have no problem mounting the fully extended 9" unit, in all its glory... :wink:
recumpence said:
Still having trouble visualizing how the mount will work. Does it clamp onto the output shaft tube? What does the other end look like?
-- Gary
recumpence
1 GW
Yup, it clamps to the output shaft bearing tube. The top of the mount is "T" shaped with holes tapped in the sides to either screw or weld to the frame.
Matt
Matt
GGoodrum
1 MW
recumpence said:
Do you have the rough dimensions of the "T" part of the mount? Where are the tapped holes, on top of the "T", or on the ends? What size holes/threads?
I'm still trying to figure out how to get this beast mounted to a seat tube, or a down tube. I guess what would make most sense for those of us that need to mount this to a tube, is for a mount that looks like your secondary drive double clamp, but with one end turned 90 degrees and maybe in two pieces so that it could be bolted around a seat/down tube. The "T" mount might be fine, if there was away to use it with a couple of U-bolts. Is that possible?
Thanks -- Gary
recumpence
1 GW
The mount is 1.125 thick and 4 inches long at the top of the T. There are two 1/4-20 holes tapped on the sides of the T that are 3 inches apart.
If this is to be mounted to a tube, and you do not want to weld tabs, you would use U bolts. I have been considering having a V or U shaped profile machined the length of the T at the top so it can be layed against a tube and automatically align with that machined groove.
Matt
If this is to be mounted to a tube, and you do not want to weld tabs, you would use U bolts. I have been considering having a V or U shaped profile machined the length of the T at the top so it can be layed against a tube and automatically align with that machined groove.
Matt
GGoodrum
1 MW
recumpence said:
I'm guessing 99% of us do not have an easy way to weld tabs on a tube, so the grovved channels will be a welcome addition.
erth64net
100 W
GGoodrum said:recumpence said:
I'm guessing 99% of us do not have an easy way to weld tabs on a tube, so the grovved channels will be a welcome addition.
I'll second this one. I live in a downtown condo, so access to welding equipment is very difficult. In general, I'd assume you'll have more "buyers" if there's multiple mounting options...and if someone has welding equipment, I'd bet they can cut off any unwanted tabs.
recumpence
1 GW
Direct bolt-ons are always preferable. However, for now, I need to get the drive itself finished (all parts finished) with the basic mount for those who don't mind doing a bit of fabbing or going to a welding shop for mounting before I look to make any kind of universal mount.
I am not looking for tons of sales. For now, I am making a high-end drive for the determined few who really want the best, custom setup. Once the drive proves itself, I can see how much time I have on my hands to increase sales by offering some kind of bolt on mount. There are problems with bolt on mounts, though;
#1 All bike are different. No mount would be truely universal.
#2 The drive, itself, is very high quality. A universal mount using u-bolts or the like would look out of place. They may work, but not as something I can just include. I would get comments like "Nice drive, crappy mount." For now, the mounting will be left to the individual. I may be able to do some simple custom stuff for the occasional customer who wants amount made to his specs. But, in general, at least a bit of fabbing will be needed to mount the drive (at least untill I make sure I have time to fill the demand for more drives). :wink:
Matt
I am not looking for tons of sales. For now, I am making a high-end drive for the determined few who really want the best, custom setup. Once the drive proves itself, I can see how much time I have on my hands to increase sales by offering some kind of bolt on mount. There are problems with bolt on mounts, though;
#1 All bike are different. No mount would be truely universal.
#2 The drive, itself, is very high quality. A universal mount using u-bolts or the like would look out of place. They may work, but not as something I can just include. I would get comments like "Nice drive, crappy mount." For now, the mounting will be left to the individual. I may be able to do some simple custom stuff for the occasional customer who wants amount made to his specs. But, in general, at least a bit of fabbing will be needed to mount the drive (at least untill I make sure I have time to fill the demand for more drives). :wink:
Matt
recumpence
1 GW
I am not against making bolt on mounts. In fact, I could make a mount that would take the place of the front derailer and clamp right to that location. That is the most likely next step. But, for now, I just need to get the drives themselves done. 8)
They could begin shipping this month (maybe within 10 to 14 days) if without FW adaptors.
I have all motor plates done, all second stage links, all secondary idler supports, all bearing tubes, and I have a bunch of pulleys in stock. Other than the mounts that are being machined this week, all I have to do is order some second stage sprockets and chain. I haven't stock them yet because the large sprocket is pretty heavy (they are steel with a large OD set screw hub). So, I am looking at making my own sprocket adaptors to use aluminum scooter sprockets. That will save a lot of weight. Of course, I could always sell the drives with the steel sprocket and offer a lighter aluminum version afterward.
Matt
They could begin shipping this month (maybe within 10 to 14 days) if without FW adaptors.
I have all motor plates done, all second stage links, all secondary idler supports, all bearing tubes, and I have a bunch of pulleys in stock. Other than the mounts that are being machined this week, all I have to do is order some second stage sprockets and chain. I haven't stock them yet because the large sprocket is pretty heavy (they are steel with a large OD set screw hub). So, I am looking at making my own sprocket adaptors to use aluminum scooter sprockets. That will save a lot of weight. Of course, I could always sell the drives with the steel sprocket and offer a lighter aluminum version afterward.
Matt
safe
1 GW
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- Messages
- 5,681
So what is your estimated cost for the entire setup? I haven't followed all of this, but it's looking good.recumpence said:
Do you have a good picture of the entire system including the gears, chains and belts you will use?
(or are you still working on it?)
etard
100 kW
Matt,
I like the idea of removing the front derailleur and putting the final stage sprocket to front chainring here instead. I wonder if a sprocket could be designed that has double flanges like the pulleys so that you could shift front sprockets by sliding this "caged" sprocket side to side (much like a front derailleur)within the mechanical tubing, and controlled by the same cable and shifter.
I like the idea of removing the front derailleur and putting the final stage sprocket to front chainring here instead. I wonder if a sprocket could be designed that has double flanges like the pulleys so that you could shift front sprockets by sliding this "caged" sprocket side to side (much like a front derailleur)within the mechanical tubing, and controlled by the same cable and shifter.
MitchJi
10 MW
Hi,
It would be good (IMO) to make sure that the White screws snugly against the shoulder of the adaptor to minimize the width required.
I think two groves that match the ends of the set screws would be stronger and wouldn't weaken the shaft as much (less material removed from the edge of the shaft).
In order to minimize the length (stress) on the shaft for Mitch and Gary (I considered sending this to Matt as a PM but decided to post it in case Gary has any requests or suggestions) I think:
1. The FW adaptor with the cog should be as narrow as possible. Does the Cog require a lockring? Just wide enough to fit a Cog and possibly a lockring. So special narrower adaptors would be very nice.
2. A better (and more customized) solution would be special FW adaptors that will accept both a White FW and a Cog (on one adaptor). This could be as simple as a standard adaptor, probably slightly longer than normal, with no shoulder, just threaded all the way. The cog would go on first, then maybe a thin washer or spacer, then the FW. Tension would spin the Cog and FW against each other onto the shaft. The set screws could be concealed beneath the FW. A slightly more complex version would have a shoulder in the middle, just wide enough for the 2 set screws.
Gary: Please let us know what you think about different FW adaptors to accommodate both FW's and Cogs.
Matt: Please let us know what you think about slightly different FW adaptors and how you think they should be done. Unless you think its a bad idea let me know if there is anything I can do to facilitate the process. Maybe contact Jason and find out the cost if this is piggybacked on your order. It might also help if Gary or I send him a Cog.
3. We can also reduce the stress on the overhanging shaft by using Dos FW's and attaching the chain to the inner teeth.
Thanks!
Mitch
recumpence said:
It would be good (IMO) to make sure that the White screws snugly against the shoulder of the adaptor to minimize the width required.
Miles said:
recumpence said:That was my thought as well. Two setscrews with two shaft flats.
Matt
I think two groves that match the ends of the set screws would be stronger and wouldn't weaken the shaft as much (less material removed from the edge of the shaft).
In order to minimize the length (stress) on the shaft for Mitch and Gary (I considered sending this to Matt as a PM but decided to post it in case Gary has any requests or suggestions) I think:
1. The FW adaptor with the cog should be as narrow as possible. Does the Cog require a lockring? Just wide enough to fit a Cog and possibly a lockring. So special narrower adaptors would be very nice.
2. A better (and more customized) solution would be special FW adaptors that will accept both a White FW and a Cog (on one adaptor). This could be as simple as a standard adaptor, probably slightly longer than normal, with no shoulder, just threaded all the way. The cog would go on first, then maybe a thin washer or spacer, then the FW. Tension would spin the Cog and FW against each other onto the shaft. The set screws could be concealed beneath the FW. A slightly more complex version would have a shoulder in the middle, just wide enough for the 2 set screws.
Gary: Please let us know what you think about different FW adaptors to accommodate both FW's and Cogs.
Matt: Please let us know what you think about slightly different FW adaptors and how you think they should be done. Unless you think its a bad idea let me know if there is anything I can do to facilitate the process. Maybe contact Jason and find out the cost if this is piggybacked on your order. It might also help if Gary or I send him a Cog.
3. We can also reduce the stress on the overhanging shaft by using Dos FW's and attaching the chain to the inner teeth.
Thanks!
Mitch
Ypedal
100 TW
my god that thing is sexy... 
.. i like it !
You take paypal ?
.. i like it ! You take paypal ?
etard
100 kW
Schu-box would be a good name... if it were still a box.
How about: M.A.A.D.A.M (Much Anticipated And Discussed Aluminium Modulus).
How about: M.A.A.D.A.M (Much Anticipated And Discussed Aluminium Modulus).
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