How about this approach?

Looks like an antique MY1018 motor and gearbox hooked up to a DIY bracket and possibly a Cyclone freewheel chainring. Not a lot to commend it, in my view, as the MY series brushed motors with integral gearboxes are very noisy and not overly powerful. A better move would have been to use the Cyclone unit in a better bracket, as the bracket that comes with the Cyclone is a bit rough around the edges.

[edited to add that my post clashed with Ypedal.....]
 
Along the same lines as these:

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=35846&p=520537#p520537

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=37224
 
Hey guys. This is Mel over at BikeMotive. You're right on the money that the motor is the weakest link. The BB power integrator has proved very tough, but the motor limitations have to be minded. You do not want to be pulling at full throttle for more than 10 minutes at a time. Once it's cooked, you're cooked. (Ok, well, you can pedal home..)

The Cyclone motor that you are referring to: Is there a drive reduction for that? I've found that a top rpm of 500 unloaded is about as much as a cyclist can handle for cadence, once you account for a 9-tooth motor sprocket and a 36+ tooth driven sprocket in the BB assembly (4:1 ratio). The specs on the Cyclone have it doing 2500 rpm in its bare state.

And if I had my wishes granted, for a motor like the Cyclone there'd be a right-angle gear reducer so that the motor can stretch along the down tube or seat tube, and not stick out to bash or burn a leg.
 
I'm sure you could order it configured for either direction.....:
http://headline-motor.com.tw/bldc-scooter-driving-motors.php

They are reversible with a bit of work.
 
It's been done before, the planetary gearbox has no clutch as far as i know.. and i know there are instructions out there on how to reverse them Bill B has it all spelled out if i recall correctly.. if you want a batch, i'd get them factory reversed, but for testing you can get a regular and reverse it with enough motivation.

The controller is inside the motor, and potted, so it's not a simple fix.. but it's possible.

That being said.. the cyclone will do 500w all day long, 1000w if treated with respect, more for a quick blast but starts to get hot quickly past this point. They can be had with external controller to help with this.. but they sound just ast awfull as the MY motors.... werrrrRrrRrrrrRrr
 
Great lead, Miles! And instructive lead by Ypedal to MrBill!

I like MrBill's Anderson connectors. I've gone with them too, and they're dandy. It's interesting to see in the photos that, with an external controller, leads are switched. Is more required? (I've got a question in to MrBill on this.) Given the wire colors, it even appears that CCW is the expected rotation. But with the internal controller on page 19, what am I looking at with regard to the stated "directional changes"?
 
MotoMel said:
Great lead, Miles! And instructive lead by Ypedal to MrBill!

I like MrBill's Anderson connectors. I've gone with them too, and they're dandy. It's interesting to see in the photos that, with an external controller, leads are switched. Is more required? (I've got a question in to MrBill on this.) Given the wire colors, it even appears that CCW is the expected rotation. But with the internal controller on page 19, what am I looking at with regard to the stated "directional changes"?

since this is a PMDC Brushless motor connecting it to the controller there are 3 power wires, 5 wires for the hall position sensor and 2 wires for a temperature sensor. this is not al all like the only 2 wires required by the brushed motors you are familiar with. with the internal controller these connections are all hidden inside the can.

to reverse the motor you have to get at the internal circuit board and remove 3 small resistors from the circuit board and move them to different locations on the board. they are tiny.

rick
 
Up through 650 watts, the Cyclone motors are all 24 volts. I would think that running at higher voltage and lower amperage would be preferred, especially for battery life. Could I solicit opinions and experiences?
 
Thanks, rkosiorek. My question was impertinently vapid, so deserved the response. I do appreciate your cordiality.

It appears that the Taiwan Cyclone website sells CW and CCW versions of most of their motors and controllers, while the Cyclone USA website has a smaller selection though of course local service and support. But I did see on MrBill's site (referenced above) that he reworked some internal controller connections to change the directionality of a motor. Delicate work.
 
36V is OK with these, the cadence is ridiculous at 48V.

I'm considering rewinding one (if I can figure out how to get the F$$$rking stator out of the can).
 
heathyoung said:
36V is OK with these, the cadence is ridiculous at 48V.

I'm considering rewinding one (if I can figure out how to get the F$$$rking stator out of the can).

i've managed to break one trying to get the stator out. strong glue. maybe if you bake it first you might loosen it up.

would it not be easier to play with sprocket ratios to adjust the speed range to match your cadence?

rick
 
I'm running mine at 12s around 48 volts and it seems fine. I had to modify the controller, the voltage regulator can't take the higher volts. Cadence is too high for peddling though.
 
MotoMel said:
Thanks, rkosiorek. My question was impertinently vapid, so deserved the response. I do appreciate your cordiality.

It appears that the Taiwan Cyclone website sells CW and CCW versions of most of their motors and controllers, while the Cyclone USA website has a smaller selection though of course local service and support. But I did see on MrBill's site (referenced above) that he reworked some internal controller connections to change the directionality of a motor. Delicate work.

damn my "sarcasm" mode is hard to switch off, once on.

i have dealt with both Cyclone USA and Cyclone Taiwan. both are easy to deal with. and shipping times from Taiwan using priority post are pretty good. but they are pricey. Paco in Taiwan can arrange for you to get virtually any part for these motors or kits individually as well. if you're going to buy from him, you may as well buy a bunch of stuff and combine the shipping. tey got lots of neat drive train parts that are cheaper to buy than they are to make unless yu have your own machine shop.

for choice of motor, i'd buy one of the external controller motors and match it up to a 6fet infineon controller from Lyen, Keywin or ebikes.ca by switching the connectors.

rick
 
If you go with the external controller version then the direction can be reversed by just swapping around the phase wires. It is documented on the forum in a couple of places. I have done it with a 12 fet controller from lyen, but I can't remember the exact combination. Lyen can tell you if you use one of his controllers.

Clay
 
>>MotoMel
This document was sent to me by Paco years ago when i asked about direction swaps for the Cyclone external controller motors. As MrBill's photos attest, for the internal controller Cyclone motors, there is a similar arrangement of SMD footprints for Zero-ohm links that can be installed in a pattern that determines hall sensor signal injection to the motor control MCU, and hence motor direction.

http://www.apex.net.au/~mjroseby/eBikes/headline_controller_direction_mod.pdf
 
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