How Hot is to HOT?

ryanvm777

10 mW
Joined
Oct 20, 2008
Messages
21
Location
Southern California
I have a instant start 35amp controler from Justin at Ebike.ca. It is in an inclosed box with the batteries and the charger. I Whent for a ride and took the cover off my battery box and it read 138f degreas. Is this to hot? It could have been hotter, Im not sure if I took the tempature right away or not.
 

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Those look like 12Ah SLA. What's the total Ah you have? If it's just 12ah, it's likely that 35 amps is killing your batteries (SLA seem to be more happy at less than 2C). The hotter a battery runs, the shorter its lifespan and you're likely to see a fairly short one if you continue running at that temperature. One way to decrease the temperature is to decrease the voltage or the increase the AH. Increasing the AH is likely to be the most effective. Alternatively, you could go with a 20-amp controller which would put less strain on the batteries, but a 20-amp controller would result in less aggressive acceleration and a lower hill-climbing speed.

Ideally, the temperature should stay below 100 degrees. If it goes above 110, you're going to start having longevity issues.
 
In my opinion, if the general temperature inside the box is 138F, you're running things way to hard. That's not a good temp for a battery and the internal temperature of the controller's components will be much. MUCH higher than that. Essentially, you're having everything in that box run as if they were sitting in the desert sun. They're not designed for that and it's not good for long life.

Even worse, those IR temp meters are notoriously inaccurate depending on what type of surface they're aimed at. And they always seem to read low. :mrgreen:
 
Warm to touch, excellent. Hot, but you can hold your hand on it, fine. Hold your hand a few seconds, pushing the envelope. Can't hold your hand, too hot. Burn your hand, run away fast.
 
Too hot for sure. I really disagree with the idea of putting controllers in enclosed boxes with no vents. I think the box is your main problem. If it rains a lot where you live, you have to do something, but at least rig up some kind of deal that lets the air flow while keeping it dry enough. Some holes in the front of the box, and more that let air out the bottom might be enough, and if it's actually raining, cover the holes up till it stops.

Edit, reading again, I see you're from southern California. So you don't have the rain issues you get in Portland, or Seattle. You might just mount the controller to the front or top of the battery box, and just carry a trash bag for emergency rain protection when you need it. A cool controller is a happy one.
 
Hmm, 120 watt light bulb inside a little box? Remember the easy bake ovens? The EVG had the controller mounted inside the frame covers, but it had a big ol heatsink, and was mounted to transfer heat to the frame too. Now that I look closer at the pic, I see you're not using a box on a rear rack like I thought, but maybe you could put some kind of vent in the covers to let some air blow through, and add heatsink to the controller with some scrap aluminum.

My experience with chargers has been that those I didn't add more vents to that didn't have a fan aren't around anymore. Mabye a fan from a charger in the box?
 
Hmm, 120 watt light bulb inside a little box? Wierd, I double posted.
 
60C or 140F is generally regarded as conservative for most things, and is the basis for the "three second rule" for testing with your thumb. There is an interesting physical reason for this having to do with the Boltzman factor for thermal processes with an activation energy near room temperature increasing by a factor of two for each 10C rise in temperature. At 60C entropic decay is accelerated by around a factor of 10 and thus lifetime is reduced correspondingly. Of course some things like silicon have a very long lifetime at room temperature and 100C or higher is OK if a lifetime of only years is acceptable. Biological entities with their already limited lifetime tend to evolve a preference for <60C.
 
Just set the cake on the sidewalk in this summers weather. 8)
 
dak664 said:
60C or 140F is generally regarded as conservative for most things, and is the basis for the "three second rule" for testing with your thumb.
I completely agree if this is the temperature of the components inside the controller. However, those components are operating wayyyyyyy above 60C if the controller case reads 60C. :D

As for the life expectancy vs. operating conditions....
Each model number for a device has an estimated room temperature failure rate (it's almost zero). Roughly, increasing the operating temperature by 10C doubles that failure rate (it doesn't halve the life, only doubles the failures). At a certain temperature (or current, voltage, etc.) the failures start increasing exponentially, the max spec for the device is set below this point. You can download the reliability reports from almost any manufacturer and look up the failure rates for a particular device and derive the new failure rate at the anticipated higher operating temperature. Doing a bit of math will tell you the chance that any one of the devices you're using will fail.

Problem is, this only tells you how likely it might fail. This actually has nothing to do with the particular device you're using. That's why components are derated and operated significantly (hopefully) way below all of their rated maximums.
 
The tempature reading was aimed at the controller.I like the controller in the box. I was thinking of putting a 12v fan from a 72v charger that got toasted. It might be kind of hard to get a good air flow with just holes in front and rear.
 
Yeah, the batteries would block a lot of the air. Improve the heatsink if you can too.
 
wrobinson0413 said:
Camlight, I think that you are not being very clear about the FIT. It is only a relative number that is dependent on the sample size that they tested. You should also mention that it is defined as the number of failures in 1 billion hours ie 114,155 years. A typical FIT for the 100V mosfets in a TO-220 case at fairchild was ~1.5 at 55C, so even if you apply your 10C doubling of the FIT number, you are still going to have a low failure in time number if operating the devices within their published specs. I think that it was somewhere around 528 years per failure at a 60% confidence. So it doesn't really mean anything other then to say I don't expect very many failure if the device is operated within spec. What ryanvm777 is trying to figure out is how hot can his controller safely get. No one can say that the inside devices are way too hot because you don't know if where he was measuring it happen to coincide with the end of the internal heat spreader or not. Since his controller looks almost flat black or at least an egg shell black, the IR temperature measurement is probably not that far out, so getting a temperature sensor on the heat spreader or a fet tab would at least give an indication of what is going on. In terms of reliabilty, you are correct in saying that there are other mechanism that could affect the life expectancy of the controller with elevated temperatures, but many of those are related to operating components above their specified ratings. If his controller temperature, voltage, and current stays within the component specifications, then he should expect it to last many years for a typical ebike application. If you have the white paper that derives the 10C relationship to the rise of FIT, I would appreciate it if you could post the document.

I agree with a lot of your post, and I agree that I could have posted a clearer message. :D
It's a ridiculously tough subject to summarize so briefly.

I agree, there are very, VERY few failures for MOSFET operated within their specs.
I agree, if it's operating within spec it should result in years and years of perfect operation.
However, in my opinion (and that's all we can give with the limited information available), if the external case is at 59C then the MOSFETs are probably way too hot. There's the case-to-spreader thermal resistance, spreader-to-insulator, insulator-to-FET-case, and case-to-junction thermal resistances that are 'in the way" of those MOSFETs cooling themselves. I feel that a controller that typically operates close to, or even above, a MOSFET's specs in 25C ambient conditions will be operating quite a bit above it at 59C. I just don't think that any of these controllers have that much headroom to spare. They're typically designed to operate right at the edge to hold down costs.

You could be right about the IR temperature reading being pretty close to the actual temp. But, we don't know. Add on that these meters typically read low when encountering an emissivity they're not calibrated for and I felt that the temperature had to be at least 59C and possibly quite higher. Reading the temp of the FET tab can notoriously inaccurate because of that emissivity difference. Also, many IR meters have too wide of a receiving angle and will read the cooler epoxy case or heat spreader temperature along with the tab temp. With some math and specs for the MOSFET insulator used (Sil-Pad, mica, whatever), reading a black heat sink'ss temp can lead to a pretty good estimate of the junction temperatures of the MOSFETs though.

All that added up to my opinion that it was too hot in there and I still strongly believe that's true.
But, this is just my opinion as it's the only thing I can offer. :mrgreen:

A quick check didn't lead me to the ones I've downloaded but the reliability papers and testing reports from IR, TI, Toshiba, etc., are a great source for temp. vs. failure info.
 
I bought a small squirl cage fan for $7.00. It should fit right underneath the controller. I would need to cut a hole in the bottom of the box and mabey make some kind of scoop to help keep any elements out. What do you guys think?
 
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