How important is the donor bike?

[2old]

I'm in the "doesn't matter which I use" tribe. I replaced the front fork on my 2005 SC MTB so it has a hydro-front, V-rear and it's fine as well as the 1994 V-only SC MTB or the Hydro-only Trek DIY mid I converted. It seems as though I'm never "under-braked".

 

[dgc]

Brakes as long as they stop you that's all that matters. Anyway guys for e-bikes there is the Bosch ABS (Anti-lock Braking System) or we going too far.

 

[lnanek]

Someone could try to adapt that funny SureStop system from kids bike v-brakes to disc brakes too. One brake lever to the rear caliper. Rear caliper is on a sliding track with a spring keeping it at the front. Braking pulls it backward as long as the rear wheel is on the ground. Then attach a cable to the caliper and run that cable to the front brake. Voila, front braking up until your rear wheel lifts.

 

[neptronix]

Hi, The background is that I have an old GT Avalanche 1.0 that I've had since new - probably about 2007. I'm looking to convert it to an ebike. The usage will be pretty limited as I use it on flat roads at home now and again, but take it on the back of a motorhome for country roads, off-road and cinder tracks etc.

I notice that some of the conversion costs - for example, mid drive kits with battery etc - can build up and I'm wondering if my bike is too old to use as a base. Should I swap the bike first, then add a kit? The bike itself is more than adequate for my needs, so I'd be just upgrading for the sake of it but don't want to waste money adding a kit to something thats too old. Is there a 'rule' of something like 20% bike cost and 80% kit cost? Thanks.

Your bike is great. High compatibility with all kinds of addon kits. Pre-random standards era.

If you're stuck with vbrakes in the rear, check out some kool stop salmon pads. They're oversized and extremely strong.
I was impressed with them when i was 250lbs and going up/down mountains, extremely strong.



If this bike has 26" wheels, you are in luck:
- hubmotors create a few % more power versus a 29er due to the higher RPM of the wheel
- used parts are extremely cheap on ebay etc, if you're looking for an air fork that can take a disc brake, or such.

 

[marty]

Brakes as long as they stop you that's all that matters. Anyway guys for e-bikes there is the Bosch ABS (Anti-lock Braking System) or we going too far.

Good thinking! Stopping is important. If a retarded 6 year old with the brain of a deer runs in front of my bicycle. I don't want to spend a extra second thinking about exactly how hard I should squeeze 2 different brake levers. Does the left lever control the front wheel? Or is it the other way around? I could be a retarded 60 year old who gets right and loft mixed up.

Give me ONE brake lever that controls both front and rear wheels and a computer to figure out how to stop as fast as possible with out bike falling over.

Look:
Double Barrel Brake Lever

Double Barrel Brake Lever

Designed for use with long-pull brakes, the Double Barrel levers allow two brakes to be actuated with one hand. Double Barrel Brake Lever Instructions

problemsolversbike.com

Also good for people with one arm.

 

[dgc]

Perhaps a rear V brake disc front brake combo with Surestop and a single lever. Buggered in the UK, it's a legal requirement to have two 'efficient' braking systems, operating independently on the front and rear wheels, to cycle on the public highway.

 

[lnanek]

You can use a front hub motor for traction then get a rear with a coaster brake engaged by back pedaling, I suppose. That would count as a second brake. Then you only need one lever.

There's always regen to count as another brake too.

 

[classicalgas]

Hi, The background is that I have an old GT Avalanche 1.0 that I've had since new - probably about 2007. I'm looking to convert it to an ebike. The usage will be pretty limited as I use it on flat roads at home now and again, but take it on the back of a motorhome for country roads, off-road and cinder tracks etc.

I notice that some of the conversion costs - for example, mid drive kits with battery etc - can build up and I'm wondering if my bike is too old to use as a base. Should I swap the bike first, then add a kit? The bike itself is more than adequate for my needs, so I'd be just upgrading for the sake of it but don't want to waste money adding a kit to something thats too old. Is there a 'rule' of something like 20% bike cost and 80% kit cost? Thanks.

Looks like a good choice for a first E-conversion to me (though I'd get something with full suspension, myself)

Consider fitting a thicker (not larger) disk to the front, E bike instead of mountain bike spec. They are stiffer, less prone to warping and have higher heat capacity than what's usually fitted to production mountain bikes.