How steep is your route?

dogman dan

1 PW
Joined
May 17, 2008
Messages
36,380
Location
Las Cruces New Mexico USA
Check out the website, mapmyride.com Thanks for pointing it out to me, stevero 2001, its really cool. :mrgreen: It was interesting to see how much less steep the 10% hill I talk about really is. It's still a steep climb, but only one part of it is 7%.
 
dogman said:
Check out the website, mapmyride.com Thanks for pointing it out to me, stevero 2001, its really cool. :mrgreen: It was interesting to see how much less steep the 10% hill I talk about really is. It's still a steep climb, but only one part of it is 7%.

lol. And I thought the 7% average steepness(peaked at 10%) hill in my area was "easy". But, it is compared to the 15% Freya hill that is dominated by vehicles(Bicycles going up it is just simply out of the question. There's only one lane and there's numerous sudden flat spots, so it's easy to not be seen going up).
 
In mapmyride putting in cote de la montagne "hill of the mountain" where dr bass towed justin up in his cross canada trip, it's a short and steep climb with an absolutely brutal part (cars shift to 1st gear) at the first tight curve. Map my ride says that part is only 10%, this is clearly wildly incorrect. However it seems fairly accurate on cote de l'aeroport "hill of the airport", that has a fairly constant ~10% grade over ~2km. Conclusion, online mapping soft suck as badly as gps for measuring grades, better to measure yourself.
 
ok I got it....ascent 82ft and descent -43 ft......Elevation min: 696 ft max: 761 ft ....very flat
 
Hey Dogman - thanks that is a really useful utility. I have various mapping packages and some do elevation but determining the slope is very helpful. So if course, I'm back with another question. You may recall I have the 14 mile commute with the 1200 foot elevation gain/loss depending on direction. The slope looks to be mostly 2% with one 1/2 mile segment that goes from 4 to 6% then downhill for a bit. Seems Justin must've figured this out in his head since on the phone he threw out 2% almost right off the bat, which had him suggesting the eZee kit and perhaps a swap for 48v batteries. Sound OK to you with this additional info.? Thanks again for the pointer, good stuff.
 
I should have mentioned in the first post, to get a real view of a particular hill, you have to look in small scale, so map a mile or less of a route to get micro measurement of a hill. My hill, in Las Cruces NM starts where hwy 70 intersects I 25 and goes east for about a mile and a half. The worst part, about a mile, I measured at 480 feet with an aircraft, very accurate altimiter. But map my ride shows it less vertical. Mabye I misread the altimiter? Map my ride and the altimiter agree on a longer distance, from work to home so maybe there are some small discrepancies in there, or I just wrote down a wrong number, poor math skills, can't even subtract right. :oops: Most likely my mistake, and then I used a bogus number to calculate.

The hill does have a flat spot, and a dip for an underpass as I ride the hwy frontage, so I figured the steepest parts had to be 10%, but the map my ride says, 7% and average over the whole hill on a longer distance scale, a wimpy 4%! Still enough to melt down a motor though! That discouraging, but it was 105f, and the motor was a crap brushed model. Some hills I rode the other day that I did find pretty steep mapped out at 13%. Gee no wonder my wife was not happy! She started refusing to go hiking with me 25 years ago :lol: I never learn do I.

The program does have a few flaws, I keep getting a route that goes out on the road, and then beelines back. Not sure what I'm doing that causes that, but most likely some kind of spazzing out with the mouse as I click. I looked at a route we used to gravity race in my youth, from the top of a pass to Kingston NM. This road leaves I 25 going west near caballo lake about 60 miles north of Las Cruces. Holy crap, no wonder it was fun. Those ramps into the turns are mapping out in the 15 -20 % range. I can't belive nobody died back then! Ah to be young and durable again.
 
I know now why my bike is finding it hard to get up that hill on the way to work - it's 20% !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Great site , thanks
 
:shock: :shock: :shock: Hope that hill isn't too long. On that mountain pass, only those little steep spots in the middle of a switchback are 20%, most of the rest of the road is a moderate 13% Every once in a while you see a boat or an rv on that road and think he's loco.
 
LOL, I KNEW there was an incline on the way to work. 62ft over 3.52mi. :p
 
dogman said:
:shock: :shock: :shock: Hope that hill isn't too long. On that mountain pass, only those little steep spots in the middle of a switchback are 20%, most of the rest of the road is a moderate 13% Every once in a while you see a boat or an rv on that road and think he's loco.

13% is moderate :shock: Umm, I think you need to re-calibrate your scale a bit.

-R
 
Moderate for that particular road. Gravity racing that thing was a blast. We used a no pedaling rule, so if you so much as touched a brake, you lost. Eventually we'd do the entire 10 miles, with no use of the brakes at all. 10 miles of hairpins marked 15 mph. extreme tucks grinding noses on the wheel. To this day, I can corner anything on two wheels. We did this on schwinn ten speeds, often in light rain. No fear at all at 16 years old.

Just now watching the tour of flanders on TV, the pros were climbing 20% cobblestones for about a kilometer. You know it's steep when they start getting off to walk. :shock:
 
Here is the elevation plot of my cummute. Seems alot steeper when riding though.
 

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I currently live at the end of a dead end street, and after I get out of the driveway I've got a 25% grade to leave the house. The only plus is that my motor is always cool to tackle the hill to go anywhere. The house I'm moving into next week has a 0% grade to deal with and a maximum grade of only 8% on any of the nearby hills, so what a relief that will be. I'll have to pretend my battery pack to get some exercise, since I can only keep up with the motor for 4 or 5 strokes on takeoffs. Maybe I'll finally get to fab my 72t chainring from an industrial sprocket I have. :mrgreen:

John
 
Here is my commute home from "MapMyRide." Kit about to be purchased. I have centered on a 48v volt system, leaning to the eZee kit since it freewheels (for ride in) though I am also considering the 408 and possibly even the 406. 
ridehome.jpg
 
Here's a ride I used to enjoy but haven't done in many years. Now that I have some power I look forward to doing it again. Acadia National park is about 45 minutes from where i live. This trip is the Loop road which is mostly 2 lane, one way smooth paved road. The hazard is watching out for car doors as many people park in the right hand lane and get out to sight see. The Park also has many miles of gravel carriage roads which are great for biking.

http://www.mapmyride.com/route/us/me/bar harbor/268123914269454396

I haven't quite figured out the mapmyride data.
 
Brainersan said:
Here is my commute home from "MapMyRide." Kit about to be purchased. I have centered on a 48v volt system, leaning to the eZee kit since it freewheels (for ride in) though I am also considering the 408 and possibly even the 406. 
A geared motor would be a good choice for that incline. On the way back you can just freewheel and coast.
 
That is a healthy amount of hill but a regular hubmotor would get up it at 48v. Motors might get hot if it's ridden wide open throttle the whole way.
 
I had always just used bikely.com. Looks like mapmyride.com has enough features I'll make account. I couldn't figure out how to get the grades to show, but I did find the 3d fly-over :eek:
Edit: still can't figure out how to get the percent grade except while mapping it. Once you're done mapping a ride you can't get the grades? Wtf?
The grades while mapping are a lot better than the estimating I used to do w/ bikely.com though. I say this based on them matching up w/ the performance of the motor while climbing. It identifies the one imperceptibly steeper section that the motor couldn't really handle w/ out me pedaling as being 9% compared to the other sections being 7-8%. This when mapping things out only a few miles at a time.
 
Looks like it says the steepest climb on my commute to work is 20%... I guess it sounds about right. I normally draw about 6KW @ 32 MPH up that hill.

5799182834_7705d5352c_b.jpg
 
Motors might get hot if it's ridden wide open throttle the whole way

Dogman, on a climb, do motors run cooler when at half-throttle?

To verify the actual grade of the steepest part of your ride (most usually know what the worst part is), Get 100-inches of string, set one end under a heavy brick, hold the string out with a cheap string-level, and measure how many inches the string is above the ground, at the 100-inch mark (8 feet, 4 inches).

100-inches out and 8 inches down is an 8% grade.

string%20level.jpg
 
That way makes the math easy.

Keeping the motor cool is going to depend a lot on the wattage. Basicly, once you start pulling more than 1000 watts, you start a time period where the motor is going to keep heating if it's a warm day. So 3/4 throttle may be better for a long climb, so you keep the wattage below the motors continuous rating.

On a short climb, you can reach the top before the heat builds up to dangerous levels, and you can let it cool once at the top.

The trick for getting up really long climbs is to monitor the temp. Back off when you have the motor at 180 F inside, and try to find the throttle speed that keeps the motor temp at equilibrim at a temp that is safe. It's when the temp is not at equilibrium and keeps going up and up and up that you melt a motor.

The problem with backing off, is you still have to keep the motor spinning at a certain minimum speed. For typical dd motors, that's not letting it get much below 15 mph. Get slower, and the motor makes heat, and by 10 mph it may be making a lot of heat. This is why I became such a fan of low speed motors. With a low speed winding, you can now ride 2-3 mph slower without the motor heat penalty. On a really slow winding, you can climb steep hills at 10 mph all you want with no problems.

The way you keep a normal winding motor going fast enough up the hill is..... you guessed it. Pedal like hell in a gear that is good for 15 mph. Not that bad really, on up to 10% grades. Above 10%, slow windings are the way to go.
 
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