kmxtornado
10 kW
First off, what makes me the guy to write up this guide? Just a joe-shmo who's done a lot of online research and who recently picked up an electric stand up scooter. I have a number of rideables in the garage. I'm a bit of a nut that way. Foldable skateboard, recumbent trikes, electric ice chests, Razor Crazy cart, hoverboard, etc. I'm the guy who needs a little brother but doesn't have one.
Let's get started. Get ready for your mental debate between performance, price and portability.
YOU WANT ELECTRIC FOR SURE:
You've already eliminated the possibility of a pedal kick scooter (non-electric). The Razor Lux Carbon (not to be confused with carbon fiber as this is carbon steel which weighs more than its aluminum counterpart, the Razor Lux A5) doesn't suite your fancy despite the affordable $60 price tag and professional black paint job. You know that the Xootr brand sets you back at least $200 already and you're not interested. You admit their lineup looks fantastic but you really do want an electric motor pushing you along. You understand an electric one will weigh more, there's inherent risks in operating a faster vehicle, and the price doesn't bother you. Now that we've gotten that out of the way...
POWER:
This is probably the best way to narrow down your choices quickly. If you know the voltage you're looking for, there will be a price range that matches that. After understanding that, you can commit or reconsider. Readers should comment on their thoughts, but I generally believe (w/o getting too technical and considering battery type, overvolting, etc):
12v = Remember that little kid toy, Power Wheels? The one you just got your kid b/c you never had one when you were young are you're still gawking on on Youtube? That thing is typically 12v. First thing that comes to mind for an electric scooter is the Razor Power Core E90, $112. 10mph top speed. It weighs 22lbs. Uses SLA batteries to keep that price down.
24v = Neighborhood riding. Nothing to get too excited about, but it's fun. You won't be climbing any hills. Sticking with the Razor examples, this would be the E100. It's got one more battery making it weigh 26lbs. Top speed is only increased by 1mph, so 11mph. The cheaper version weighs 29lbs and hits 10mph. On the high end, a carbon fiber 14lb scooter was recently released. 15mph. Price for this is a bit tricky as knockoff ones are $470 with other vendors selling these for as much as $1,300. So not worth it, but it gives you an idea of what's available. The reason I didn't pick this is b/c batteries aren't easily replaceable by non-technical people. It's a proprietary size and shape. Something to consider. SLA batteries are heavier and cheaper but they don't last that long. Typically designs that use SLA batteries enable users to easily replace them as needed w/o having to take it to a specialist or research for hours and hours on how to do it safely. You'll be a pro after just 10 minutes of Youtube "researching". The E-Micro one and CityGo Urban are both high end 24v scooters but they are designed as a kick assist scooter and not as a pull the throttle and let it go type of riding.
36v = Most people will fit into this category who are serious enough to research a buying guide for scooters. You're over the kid's toy thing. You don't want just kick assist. You're willing to spend some money for a serious machine. You want something more substantial in performance and build quality. You're looking for something you won't just throw away or sell at a garage sale. You'll keep it long term, keep it clean and treasure it as a prized possession. You better b/c you'll be spending upwards of $800 for one. Majority will be in the $900-1,200 range. You won't be winning any races against custom builders, but you you'll climb an occasional hill, want to show off to some friends, drag race some cyclists. The quality and performance of this can easily take on that "last mile" to/from work. You'll be nervous about letting others take a test ride.
36v is where we have adult scooters. The Glion 200 or more well known as simply the "Glion" is priced at $750-800, but that's a unique price for what you get in performance and features. It's got cruise control and even a USB port to charge your devices! No wonder it's a best seller. The Inokim Quick 2 is a 36v scooter, looks amazing, but is very large. Prices vary a lot depending on where you get it. The company is releasing their new Quick 3 version soon which offers a 48v setup which fits in the category below.
48v = Fewer people will fall into this category. This is a work horse. You may be hard pressed to justify the extra weight of a 48v scooter. You won't be riding this when it's out of batteries. Make sure you always have juice b/c this thing will be heavy. Efficiency gets a little iffy in this category. The weight for a 48v system is significantly higher. A lot of that power is used just to propel just the dead weight of the battery itself. A 48v scooter is larger b/c the battery itself is physically bigger.
The Imax S1 comes to mind. This thing is 39lbs but can climb hills with ease. It's a monster in performance and size. This category is for you if you're only looking to pick this thing up to move it to and from your car or storage. You won't be lugging this around on public transit. We're talking 10" wheels here and of course there's 2 of them. This thing when folded may be as big as your 6 year old from head to toe. The price range of a scooter in this category starts at $1,300. Take a step down if you're not prepared to fork over that kind of cash or would be worried about theft of your beloved new toy.
RANGE AND CHARGE TIME:
Expect that your scooter will give you a range between 8-15 miles. Some boast 20 miles, but in a real world setting where you're gunning it through some occasional inclines in stop and go traffic, you're far from the ideal testing conditions the manufacturer uses to come up with the numbers labeled on the box. Long range means a bigger/heavier battery which will take longer to charge (assuming you're comparing similar battery chemistries). If you plan to charge your scooter at your destination which happens to be work, the difference between a 2hr charge and a 4hr charge may not be important to you. If you're constantly on the go, charge time might be worth considering more heavily. The pricier scooters aren't designed to have batteries swapped in and out on a regular basis, so you can forget about charging one while using another. These lithium batteries also cost upwards of $300 a pop, so the "convenience" most likely wouldn't be worth it anyway.
FRONT WHEEL DRIVE OR REAR WHEEL DRIVE?
Majority of electric stand-up scooters are rear wheel drive. I'm guessing this started with gas powered scooters. It makes sense to mount the engine in the rear and power the wheel that's closest to it. This naturally translated to electric scooters. Nowadays, a vast majority of electric stand-up scooters run on hub motors, meaning there isn't a belt nor chain. It offers a cleaner look and there are fewer components that stuff on the road can get caught in. Rear wheel drive scooters will offer "higher efficiency on hills" and make going over terrain easier.
More great info covered by the community here: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=26625
FRONT BRAKE, REAR BRAKE OR DUAL BRAKE:
Unless this is super important to you, you won't have much of a choice here b/c the setup will end up being whatever it is based on the scooter you choose which meets your other criteria. Larger more substantial scooters will have disk brakes, but it's not at all common with scooters under 48v and less so under 36v.
THROTTLE TYPE:
The three most common are:
A. A twist throttle like a motorcycle. I'd avoid this one as it's hard to keep a steady hand in acceleration from a stand up position on a scooter that most likely won't have suspension. Twist throttles found on electric rideables are typically cheaply made relative to other alternatives on the market.
B. Thumb actuated like the UScooter E-TWOW. Makes for a much more compact package. At high speeds you'll want a better grip on the handlebar. To do this, your thumb wrapping around the handlebar is essential. This gesture directly conflicts with your ability to wrap your thumb around the grips. You'll essentially be holding the right handlebar with your fingers.
C. Lever throttle like the Eco Reco lineup. My favorite b/c it doesn't have the drawbacks of the two types above.
WHEEL SIZES:
If you're super concerned about punctures where you intend to ride, you want the solid airless tires. These are typically only offered in smaller wheel sizes like the 6" ones on the Eco Reco line up. They offer air tires as an option. Some of their models are a combination of both. Typically in cases where solid tires are offered, they're on the rear drive tire. Changing the tire on the wheel that has the integrated hub motor is a lot more involved than replacing or patching the tube of a front tire.
Tires of larger sizes like 8" and 10" will be air tires. If you choose an air tire, be prepared to maintain it a bit and check air pressure every now and then. Air tires will be cushier and offers some level of comfort in ride quality. Generally a larger wheel will run over bumps/gaps and uneven road surfaces less noticeably.
SUSPENSION:
Consider that suspension components add to the overall weight of the scooter. It may be necessary if you don't on riding a majority of the time on a paved road surface. Suspension doesn't necessarily add extra bulk. Designers have done a pretty good job of integrating it into the frame of the scooter. It may not be obvious that scooters with rear suspension actually have rear suspension back there. The design is typically the same and it gets hidden under the deck (standing surface). From what I've researched, rear suspension does make a fairly noticeable difference. I wouldn't know first hand as I opted for the Eco Reco S3 which only has suspension in the front. I also expected the ride would be rough as my priority was on size of the scooter and I was willing take a hit on ride comfort in exchange.
A NOTE ON SPEED:
A 5mph difference is a lot on a stand-up scooter. It takes a lot to move a scooter 15mph vs 10mph, to 20mph vs 15mph from a design point of view. The experience on a 15mph scooter gets your attention and at 20mph, it's pretty dangerous. At speeds 20mph and higher, you really do want a wide based handlebar. Looks funny proportionally, but you'll feel much better when steering. Slightly over 20mph is pretty much the cap for two reasons. Some city regulations will require a license to operate a vehicle exceeding 25mph. Designing the scooter to reach 25mph means more batteries which means it'll be heavier and pricier. With so few people looking at 25mph top end scooters, it doesn't make sense to offer anything that fits in that category. The sweet spot that balances price, weight and speed seems to hover between 15-20mph which is plenty fast for a stand-up scooter.
A NOTE ON WEIGHT:
Heavy sounds bad, but when you're going at full speed, you really do want something substantially heavier. If you remember the $100 Razor scooters when they first came out a couple decades ago, you may remember the steering is very squirrely and people were getting injured at high speeds with a straight up and down steering column and tiny wheels. Doesn't take much to accidentally flip the wheel 90 degrees and flip you off. On my first ride on the Eco Reco S3 yesterday, I was flying down a main artery of the city and was very glad the scooter didn't weigh any less than 29lbs. Most electric scooters will weigh between 25-30lbs, meaning under 25lbs would be considered light and anything over 30lbs would be considered heavy. Yes, there are scooters that weight just shy of14lbs and some weigh a whopping 62lbs.
MONEY MATTERS:
Whether you're on a budget or if you just have a craving for good value, it's something worth paying attention to. Naturally, you'll either spend:
A. Under $250 - For $120, you can pick something up from your local big box store and not have to mention anything to your wife about your new purchase until she sees you riding along the driveway with that big grin on your face followed by mumbling an offer for her to take it for a spin. You know you're just hoping she'll fall in love with it and understand immediately why you got it.
B. This would be a great category, but there isn't much for stand-up electric scooters from $250-750. The knockoff carbon fiber 14lb scooter that was just released can be had for $470 ish, but retails from legit vendors for over $1,000. You can find some knock off E-Twow Boosters on the high end of this category range. City Bug 2 doesn't go any faster than the $120 Razor Power Core E90, but it's better looking for $700. The CityGo Urban Indiegogo campaign just ended yesterday for under $700, but will supposedly retail for $1,000. No throttle though. It's a kick assist scooter.
C. It's a big jump to $750 and most will be $800-$1,200. Often times the 4 digit number of $1,000 becomes a mental cap but what's another $200 if you're spending over a grand, right? At least that's what you'll be telling yourself. Just don't forget tax and shipping costs. If you intend to ride the scooter outside a 5 block radius from your house, you'll find yourself in this category. You're looking for that "last mile" solution or a very serious non-toy toy you'll be riding regularly. If you think the Veetron Vomo falls into this category, do a bit more research and you'll learn that this was a complete scam. Their website is still up selling a scooter for $399 including shipping. Their Indiegogo crowd funding campaign had over 800 people sign up, but only 35 people received a product.
D. $1,300-1,400 would probably be your max expense. Spending anything over $1,500 just feels weird b/c you know even though it's not the same, you'll always remember in the back of your mind that you can buy yourself a used Honda/Yamaha gas motor scooter for that price. $1,500 also starts to bite into the Plasma TV budget or your kid's monthly preschool tuition dollars. $1,500 is fairly sizable for most. It's tough to swallow justifying a purchase like this even if it's for a new fancy road bike.
E. $1,500-$1,999 - You're only in this category b/c you're already eying the Goped ESR 750 Hoverboard.
F. $2,000 - Just get the Goped Iped-2 already. You know you want it.
G. $5,000 - Really? Seriously? The GoPed PPV weighs 62lbs and goes 30mph. If you're buying this, you're most likely not reading this guide. You've either already clicked the "Buy" button or are about to.
TIP: High end sticker prices should have high end components. If you're in category C or higher, pay attention to the throttle of the scooter you're eying. If it's something you see on ebay, look at the price and make your decision accordingly. Do you really want an $8 throttle on your $1,000+ scooter? If you see $25 ebay throttles on your category D scooter, put it on your do-not-buy list immediately. If you're paying over $1,000 for a scooter, your battery meter should be digital. I've seen $8 throttles on $1,300 scooters. That's not exactly good value.
CONCLUSION:
Hopefully you were quickly able to identify which category you belong in and can make an educated assessment of which scooter fits you best. There are so many out there these days that it wouldn't be helpful for me to do a review on each. Instead, I've plugged some of the popular ones and some you may never have come across. Good to know the field so you know what you're NOT getting. Sometimes that can be the best way to determine what it is exactly that you DO want.
Don't hold your breath if you're waiting for Boosted to create a stand-up scooter using their technology. It does sound exciting to think about a 15lb foldable scooter that can climb hills at full speed and only require 1 hour of charge time, but i doubt electric skateboard technology would be implemented into the stand-up scooter products anytime soon. Totally possible, but I just don't see the two merging in the near future. Let me know what you ended up deciding on. It'd be great to hear a story about your purchase. Good luck, have fun and stay safe.
If you're curious about the Eco Reco S3 that I ultimately purchased for myself and you're not tired of reading yet, I have a full review here: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=82967&p=1216888#p1216888
Let's get started. Get ready for your mental debate between performance, price and portability.
YOU WANT ELECTRIC FOR SURE:
You've already eliminated the possibility of a pedal kick scooter (non-electric). The Razor Lux Carbon (not to be confused with carbon fiber as this is carbon steel which weighs more than its aluminum counterpart, the Razor Lux A5) doesn't suite your fancy despite the affordable $60 price tag and professional black paint job. You know that the Xootr brand sets you back at least $200 already and you're not interested. You admit their lineup looks fantastic but you really do want an electric motor pushing you along. You understand an electric one will weigh more, there's inherent risks in operating a faster vehicle, and the price doesn't bother you. Now that we've gotten that out of the way...
POWER:
This is probably the best way to narrow down your choices quickly. If you know the voltage you're looking for, there will be a price range that matches that. After understanding that, you can commit or reconsider. Readers should comment on their thoughts, but I generally believe (w/o getting too technical and considering battery type, overvolting, etc):
12v = Remember that little kid toy, Power Wheels? The one you just got your kid b/c you never had one when you were young are you're still gawking on on Youtube? That thing is typically 12v. First thing that comes to mind for an electric scooter is the Razor Power Core E90, $112. 10mph top speed. It weighs 22lbs. Uses SLA batteries to keep that price down.
24v = Neighborhood riding. Nothing to get too excited about, but it's fun. You won't be climbing any hills. Sticking with the Razor examples, this would be the E100. It's got one more battery making it weigh 26lbs. Top speed is only increased by 1mph, so 11mph. The cheaper version weighs 29lbs and hits 10mph. On the high end, a carbon fiber 14lb scooter was recently released. 15mph. Price for this is a bit tricky as knockoff ones are $470 with other vendors selling these for as much as $1,300. So not worth it, but it gives you an idea of what's available. The reason I didn't pick this is b/c batteries aren't easily replaceable by non-technical people. It's a proprietary size and shape. Something to consider. SLA batteries are heavier and cheaper but they don't last that long. Typically designs that use SLA batteries enable users to easily replace them as needed w/o having to take it to a specialist or research for hours and hours on how to do it safely. You'll be a pro after just 10 minutes of Youtube "researching". The E-Micro one and CityGo Urban are both high end 24v scooters but they are designed as a kick assist scooter and not as a pull the throttle and let it go type of riding.
36v = Most people will fit into this category who are serious enough to research a buying guide for scooters. You're over the kid's toy thing. You don't want just kick assist. You're willing to spend some money for a serious machine. You want something more substantial in performance and build quality. You're looking for something you won't just throw away or sell at a garage sale. You'll keep it long term, keep it clean and treasure it as a prized possession. You better b/c you'll be spending upwards of $800 for one. Majority will be in the $900-1,200 range. You won't be winning any races against custom builders, but you you'll climb an occasional hill, want to show off to some friends, drag race some cyclists. The quality and performance of this can easily take on that "last mile" to/from work. You'll be nervous about letting others take a test ride.
36v is where we have adult scooters. The Glion 200 or more well known as simply the "Glion" is priced at $750-800, but that's a unique price for what you get in performance and features. It's got cruise control and even a USB port to charge your devices! No wonder it's a best seller. The Inokim Quick 2 is a 36v scooter, looks amazing, but is very large. Prices vary a lot depending on where you get it. The company is releasing their new Quick 3 version soon which offers a 48v setup which fits in the category below.
48v = Fewer people will fall into this category. This is a work horse. You may be hard pressed to justify the extra weight of a 48v scooter. You won't be riding this when it's out of batteries. Make sure you always have juice b/c this thing will be heavy. Efficiency gets a little iffy in this category. The weight for a 48v system is significantly higher. A lot of that power is used just to propel just the dead weight of the battery itself. A 48v scooter is larger b/c the battery itself is physically bigger.
The Imax S1 comes to mind. This thing is 39lbs but can climb hills with ease. It's a monster in performance and size. This category is for you if you're only looking to pick this thing up to move it to and from your car or storage. You won't be lugging this around on public transit. We're talking 10" wheels here and of course there's 2 of them. This thing when folded may be as big as your 6 year old from head to toe. The price range of a scooter in this category starts at $1,300. Take a step down if you're not prepared to fork over that kind of cash or would be worried about theft of your beloved new toy.
RANGE AND CHARGE TIME:
Expect that your scooter will give you a range between 8-15 miles. Some boast 20 miles, but in a real world setting where you're gunning it through some occasional inclines in stop and go traffic, you're far from the ideal testing conditions the manufacturer uses to come up with the numbers labeled on the box. Long range means a bigger/heavier battery which will take longer to charge (assuming you're comparing similar battery chemistries). If you plan to charge your scooter at your destination which happens to be work, the difference between a 2hr charge and a 4hr charge may not be important to you. If you're constantly on the go, charge time might be worth considering more heavily. The pricier scooters aren't designed to have batteries swapped in and out on a regular basis, so you can forget about charging one while using another. These lithium batteries also cost upwards of $300 a pop, so the "convenience" most likely wouldn't be worth it anyway.
FRONT WHEEL DRIVE OR REAR WHEEL DRIVE?
Majority of electric stand-up scooters are rear wheel drive. I'm guessing this started with gas powered scooters. It makes sense to mount the engine in the rear and power the wheel that's closest to it. This naturally translated to electric scooters. Nowadays, a vast majority of electric stand-up scooters run on hub motors, meaning there isn't a belt nor chain. It offers a cleaner look and there are fewer components that stuff on the road can get caught in. Rear wheel drive scooters will offer "higher efficiency on hills" and make going over terrain easier.
More great info covered by the community here: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=26625
FRONT BRAKE, REAR BRAKE OR DUAL BRAKE:
Unless this is super important to you, you won't have much of a choice here b/c the setup will end up being whatever it is based on the scooter you choose which meets your other criteria. Larger more substantial scooters will have disk brakes, but it's not at all common with scooters under 48v and less so under 36v.
THROTTLE TYPE:
The three most common are:
A. A twist throttle like a motorcycle. I'd avoid this one as it's hard to keep a steady hand in acceleration from a stand up position on a scooter that most likely won't have suspension. Twist throttles found on electric rideables are typically cheaply made relative to other alternatives on the market.
B. Thumb actuated like the UScooter E-TWOW. Makes for a much more compact package. At high speeds you'll want a better grip on the handlebar. To do this, your thumb wrapping around the handlebar is essential. This gesture directly conflicts with your ability to wrap your thumb around the grips. You'll essentially be holding the right handlebar with your fingers.
C. Lever throttle like the Eco Reco lineup. My favorite b/c it doesn't have the drawbacks of the two types above.
WHEEL SIZES:
If you're super concerned about punctures where you intend to ride, you want the solid airless tires. These are typically only offered in smaller wheel sizes like the 6" ones on the Eco Reco line up. They offer air tires as an option. Some of their models are a combination of both. Typically in cases where solid tires are offered, they're on the rear drive tire. Changing the tire on the wheel that has the integrated hub motor is a lot more involved than replacing or patching the tube of a front tire.
Tires of larger sizes like 8" and 10" will be air tires. If you choose an air tire, be prepared to maintain it a bit and check air pressure every now and then. Air tires will be cushier and offers some level of comfort in ride quality. Generally a larger wheel will run over bumps/gaps and uneven road surfaces less noticeably.
SUSPENSION:
Consider that suspension components add to the overall weight of the scooter. It may be necessary if you don't on riding a majority of the time on a paved road surface. Suspension doesn't necessarily add extra bulk. Designers have done a pretty good job of integrating it into the frame of the scooter. It may not be obvious that scooters with rear suspension actually have rear suspension back there. The design is typically the same and it gets hidden under the deck (standing surface). From what I've researched, rear suspension does make a fairly noticeable difference. I wouldn't know first hand as I opted for the Eco Reco S3 which only has suspension in the front. I also expected the ride would be rough as my priority was on size of the scooter and I was willing take a hit on ride comfort in exchange.
A NOTE ON SPEED:
A 5mph difference is a lot on a stand-up scooter. It takes a lot to move a scooter 15mph vs 10mph, to 20mph vs 15mph from a design point of view. The experience on a 15mph scooter gets your attention and at 20mph, it's pretty dangerous. At speeds 20mph and higher, you really do want a wide based handlebar. Looks funny proportionally, but you'll feel much better when steering. Slightly over 20mph is pretty much the cap for two reasons. Some city regulations will require a license to operate a vehicle exceeding 25mph. Designing the scooter to reach 25mph means more batteries which means it'll be heavier and pricier. With so few people looking at 25mph top end scooters, it doesn't make sense to offer anything that fits in that category. The sweet spot that balances price, weight and speed seems to hover between 15-20mph which is plenty fast for a stand-up scooter.
A NOTE ON WEIGHT:
Heavy sounds bad, but when you're going at full speed, you really do want something substantially heavier. If you remember the $100 Razor scooters when they first came out a couple decades ago, you may remember the steering is very squirrely and people were getting injured at high speeds with a straight up and down steering column and tiny wheels. Doesn't take much to accidentally flip the wheel 90 degrees and flip you off. On my first ride on the Eco Reco S3 yesterday, I was flying down a main artery of the city and was very glad the scooter didn't weigh any less than 29lbs. Most electric scooters will weigh between 25-30lbs, meaning under 25lbs would be considered light and anything over 30lbs would be considered heavy. Yes, there are scooters that weight just shy of14lbs and some weigh a whopping 62lbs.
MONEY MATTERS:
Whether you're on a budget or if you just have a craving for good value, it's something worth paying attention to. Naturally, you'll either spend:
A. Under $250 - For $120, you can pick something up from your local big box store and not have to mention anything to your wife about your new purchase until she sees you riding along the driveway with that big grin on your face followed by mumbling an offer for her to take it for a spin. You know you're just hoping she'll fall in love with it and understand immediately why you got it.
B. This would be a great category, but there isn't much for stand-up electric scooters from $250-750. The knockoff carbon fiber 14lb scooter that was just released can be had for $470 ish, but retails from legit vendors for over $1,000. You can find some knock off E-Twow Boosters on the high end of this category range. City Bug 2 doesn't go any faster than the $120 Razor Power Core E90, but it's better looking for $700. The CityGo Urban Indiegogo campaign just ended yesterday for under $700, but will supposedly retail for $1,000. No throttle though. It's a kick assist scooter.
C. It's a big jump to $750 and most will be $800-$1,200. Often times the 4 digit number of $1,000 becomes a mental cap but what's another $200 if you're spending over a grand, right? At least that's what you'll be telling yourself. Just don't forget tax and shipping costs. If you intend to ride the scooter outside a 5 block radius from your house, you'll find yourself in this category. You're looking for that "last mile" solution or a very serious non-toy toy you'll be riding regularly. If you think the Veetron Vomo falls into this category, do a bit more research and you'll learn that this was a complete scam. Their website is still up selling a scooter for $399 including shipping. Their Indiegogo crowd funding campaign had over 800 people sign up, but only 35 people received a product.
D. $1,300-1,400 would probably be your max expense. Spending anything over $1,500 just feels weird b/c you know even though it's not the same, you'll always remember in the back of your mind that you can buy yourself a used Honda/Yamaha gas motor scooter for that price. $1,500 also starts to bite into the Plasma TV budget or your kid's monthly preschool tuition dollars. $1,500 is fairly sizable for most. It's tough to swallow justifying a purchase like this even if it's for a new fancy road bike.
E. $1,500-$1,999 - You're only in this category b/c you're already eying the Goped ESR 750 Hoverboard.
F. $2,000 - Just get the Goped Iped-2 already. You know you want it.
G. $5,000 - Really? Seriously? The GoPed PPV weighs 62lbs and goes 30mph. If you're buying this, you're most likely not reading this guide. You've either already clicked the "Buy" button or are about to.
TIP: High end sticker prices should have high end components. If you're in category C or higher, pay attention to the throttle of the scooter you're eying. If it's something you see on ebay, look at the price and make your decision accordingly. Do you really want an $8 throttle on your $1,000+ scooter? If you see $25 ebay throttles on your category D scooter, put it on your do-not-buy list immediately. If you're paying over $1,000 for a scooter, your battery meter should be digital. I've seen $8 throttles on $1,300 scooters. That's not exactly good value.
CONCLUSION:
Hopefully you were quickly able to identify which category you belong in and can make an educated assessment of which scooter fits you best. There are so many out there these days that it wouldn't be helpful for me to do a review on each. Instead, I've plugged some of the popular ones and some you may never have come across. Good to know the field so you know what you're NOT getting. Sometimes that can be the best way to determine what it is exactly that you DO want.
Don't hold your breath if you're waiting for Boosted to create a stand-up scooter using their technology. It does sound exciting to think about a 15lb foldable scooter that can climb hills at full speed and only require 1 hour of charge time, but i doubt electric skateboard technology would be implemented into the stand-up scooter products anytime soon. Totally possible, but I just don't see the two merging in the near future. Let me know what you ended up deciding on. It'd be great to hear a story about your purchase. Good luck, have fun and stay safe.
If you're curious about the Eco Reco S3 that I ultimately purchased for myself and you're not tired of reading yet, I have a full review here: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=82967&p=1216888#p1216888
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