Leeleeducati
100 W
Thanks for these great pieces of info Mac!
HPC Revolution XXX
- Thread starter Leeleeducati
- Start date
Leeleeducati
100 W
Updates... so I just ordered my motor from Alexey. 160Pro-S, halled and custom shaft. Probably won't see it till end of Sept. No fault of Revolt, shipping is real slow. I'm still waiting for my new frame, HPC has sent it out so hopefully by the end of this week or early next week I should have it. I started machining the dropouts to accept the 27.5s, I'll post a pic of RH one I'm almost finished. This build involves a ton of patience and waiting and then more waiting and waiting.
Leeleeducati
100 W
sn0wchyld
100 kW
Leeleeducati said:
OMGOMGOMGOMGOMGOMGOMGOGMOGOMGOGGMOGMGOGMOGMGOMGOM
looks great, but i cant help but think those phase wires look a bit punny... what controller are you planning?
kiwiev
100 kW
I want one 
I agree Snow the phase wires look small, so do they have an internal fan?
Cheers Kiwi
I agree Snow the phase wires look small, so do they have an internal fan?
Cheers Kiwi
sn0wchyld
100 kW
kiwiev said:I want one
I agree Snow the phase wires look small, so do they have an internal fan?
Cheers Kiwi
the entire side cover of these motors act like a fan... so yes - its part of what gets them their power!
I've got a CNC router so im really tempted to try this with a hub motor, if i ever find the time hahah - massive open sides with maybe just some mesh to help stop crap getting in there. it'd be interesting to see how much higher the power could be...
but yea, If i order one i think ill be requesting fatter wires, 8G minimum. 'corse it could be they're already 8g, and its just the motor is so ph-Fat that they look small
Leeleeducati
100 W
sn0wchyld
100 kW
Miles said:
because if im going to generate heat anywhere, it may as well be in the areas that are producing power too. that and the windings have active cooling, outside the motor the wires do not... true, its not a big deal but for the sake of $3 i'd rather have beefier wires and connectors.
I really like this frame because it is the first one that is made of high strength aluminum.
personally i think the RV160 is a bit overkill and you will need to put lots of brain power into the construction for good integration and proper chainline.
will follow your thread with lots of curiosity^^
personally i think the RV160 is a bit overkill and you will need to put lots of brain power into the construction for good integration and proper chainline.
will follow your thread with lots of curiosity^^
Leeleeducati
100 W
I once used the word "overkill" on this forum and was shamed by many members I did do some early experimenting with bottom brackets and chain lines and there's plenty of adjustment in the design to align perfectly with the 148mm. I'm also actually using a rear cog carrier with spacers to align as needed. I'll post a pic, the rear cog you'll see in the pic. isn't the final one. I'm going to have to fab. one that will carry standard 135 or 144BDC chainrings. I thought of 219's but the smaller crank drive cog ends up being too big to get the same ratio, it still might be an option... I'll also post some pics of the dropouts, one is done, the other perhaps later tonight. I'm no machinist by any means so the work while dimensionally accurate could use some bead blasting to match the bike's finish. anyway the build continues.
I did do some early experimenting with bottom brackets and chain lines and there's plenty of adjustment in the design to align perfectly with the 148mm. I'm also actually using a rear cog carrier with spacers to align as needed. I'll post a pic, the rear cog you'll see in the pic. isn't the final one. I'm going to have to fab. one that will carry standard 135 or 144BDC chainrings. I thought of 219's but the smaller crank drive cog ends up being too big to get the same ratio, it still might be an option... I'll also post some pics of the dropouts, one is done, the other perhaps later tonight. I'm no machinist by any means so the work while dimensionally accurate could use some bead blasting to match the bike's finish. anyway the build continues.Leeleeducati
100 W
Leeleeducati
100 W
Leeleeducati
100 W
Here it is on the bike. The mounting bolts and locations wouldn't have been my first choice, but I didn't want to modify the existing holes on the frame so I had to work with HPC's dimensions/locations. It looks a bit deceiving in size/weight. There's a 1/4" pocket milled out through most of the width to "sandwich" the existing dropout.
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Leeleeducati
100 W
pchen92
100 W
Nice looking frame 8) 8)
Unless you don't plan on using bicycle drive train (which doesn't look like where you're going), a RV160 is way overkill for a bicycle drive train. A RV120 pro peaks at 15kW (according to constructor, so maybe 18-20kW in real situation), enough to throw you on Mars anytime and to reduce the drivetrain in powder. A RV100 pro will be the best choice if it fits IMO. Provides way more power than the GNG motor (which already puts a lot of stress on the drivetrain) is way lighter than the RV160, will consume less, and leave more space in the frame.
Leeleeducati said:I once used the word "overkill" on this forum and was shamed by many members
Unless you don't plan on using bicycle drive train (which doesn't look like where you're going), a RV160 is way overkill for a bicycle drive train. A RV120 pro peaks at 15kW (according to constructor, so maybe 18-20kW in real situation), enough to throw you on Mars anytime
and to reduce the drivetrain in powder. A RV100 pro will be the best choice if it fits IMO. Provides way more power than the GNG motor (which already puts a lot of stress on the drivetrain) is way lighter than the RV160, will consume less, and leave more space in the frame.Leeleeducati
100 W
hey pchen92,
No there's no intention of using the bike drive train for peddling. This is my fourth build and progressively I've peddled less and less with each build. The pedals/cranks are there just for compliance "ebike". This build is 90/10 moto/bike. I plan on riding this as a downhill / trail bike, I have other bikes for biking.
No there's no intention of using the bike drive train for peddling. This is my fourth build and progressively I've peddled less and less with each build. The pedals/cranks are there just for compliance "ebike". This build is 90/10 moto/bike. I plan on riding this as a downhill / trail bike, I have other bikes for biking.
macribs
10 MW
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2014
- Messages
- 3,702
Don't listen to them. A rv 100 would be much less then this frame deserves. If you can find a nice way to mount a Revolt 160 that would be the one of the wildest build this year. And I really think that motor would suit your aluminum frame. Looking forward to see it completed.
You wrote v2 of frame, has there been design changes and if so what was changed and why?
You wrote v2 of frame, has there been design changes and if so what was changed and why?
Leeleeducati
100 W
Hey Mac,
Thanks for the 160 support. There were some slight design changes. The battery opening in the back of the pictures (LH) isn't symmetrical to the front, the opening on the top where the wires goes thru is just a bit smaller. Other than that, the overall geometry stayed exact the same. You can see the opening changes from my early pictures to the most recent. The welds on 2.0 look much better. I've made an initial design of the mounts, it looks like I can fit all this inside, but millimeters are precious and it just fits.
Thanks for the 160 support. There were some slight design changes. The battery opening in the back of the pictures (LH) isn't symmetrical to the front, the opening on the top where the wires goes thru is just a bit smaller. Other than that, the overall geometry stayed exact the same. You can see the opening changes from my early pictures to the most recent. The welds on 2.0 look much better. I've made an initial design of the mounts, it looks like I can fit all this inside, but millimeters are precious and it just fits.
sascha2770
100 mW
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2014
- Messages
- 41
He could use KMC's 910 chain with double sprockets
They fit perfectly with 2 singlespeed sprockets. just an idea
They fit perfectly with 2 singlespeed sprockets. just an idea
kiwiev
100 kW
Subscribed
Looks awesome mate
From a welding inspector point of view I would stress relief your critical welds especially with alloy just a matter of flapper wheeling the edge of the heat effected zone just smooth of the welds this will stop stress discontinuities forming.
Cheers Kiwi
Looks awesome mate
From a welding inspector point of view I would stress relief your critical welds especially with alloy just a matter of flapper wheeling the edge of the heat effected zone just smooth of the welds this will stop stress discontinuities forming.
Cheers Kiwi
macribs
10 MW
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2014
- Messages
- 3,702
Could you do a quick measure of the swing arm? And how thick are the walls of the swing arm?
It just occurred to me that I have seen rectangular aluminum tubing. If possible to find correct thickness of the walls a new swingarm in aluminum could be a nice winter project to brush up on tig welding and getting room for real fat rear tire for next season.
It just occurred to me that I have seen rectangular aluminum tubing. If possible to find correct thickness of the walls a new swingarm in aluminum could be a nice winter project to brush up on tig welding and getting room for real fat rear tire for next season.
Leeleeducati
100 W
speedmd
10 MW
Never saw a fractional caliper. Not sure what the point of that caliper is when a carpenters ruler will give you the same detail and does not require batteries. If you have the resolution, I would always use it! The shorter side walls on the extrusion section look a bit thicker (may be just from cut angle)and it has a nice strong looking corner detail. Look forward to seeing this build.
If you have the resolution, I would always use it! The shorter side walls on the extrusion section look a bit thicker (may be just from cut angle)and it has a nice strong looking corner detail. Look forward to seeing this build.Similar threads
