Hub motor not turning

8fun_fan

10 mW
Joined
Dec 6, 2014
Messages
22
Hi, I have a bafang front motor with Hall sensors and a seatpost attached battery. I order a new battery and was working fine with the old seatpost mount. I change the battery attachment aswell, And now the motor is not turning. I am not sure the attachment to the battery is the issue because I check the continuity of the plug to the battery and it is ok. It is leapfrog battery style.
It has a pedal sensor , when you pedal the wheel seems it wants to start turning makes a sound every 2 seconds and just move slightly. Here is a video showing it [youtube]https://youtu.be/e8PzYwg4xiI[/youtube]
I checked the mosfets with ebike.ca instructions and are ok. The hall voltage is ok, but I coundnt check properly the hall phases because the cables are glued to the controller connector .

Any clues? Thanks
 
The noise is coming from the motor or controller?

I would look at the wires exiting the motors axle, inspect any damage to the wiring insulation jacket all the way back to the controller.

Next I would look into the glob of glue on the controllers wire entry.

I would personally go ahead and buy a new controller from these guys https://evfittinggreentime.aliexpress.com/store/group/E-bike-Brushless-Controller/313864_211689768.html?spm=a2g0o.store_home.pcShopHead_11248317.1_0 and make sure its sensorless. Go ahead and buy a couple spare throttles while your at it.

Next, I would open up the motor, I would see if the gears are not damaged and see if the winding wires are bright in color.
 
The noise is coming from the hub. It is like as small bzz as It has trying to start. I will check the connections again probably is that, but cant find out . Thanks
 
When you say you changed the "Battery Attachment", are you referring to the electrical connector as opposed to the attachment to the bike frame?

And, IMMEDIATELY after changing this attachment, it stopped working, and BEFORE changing this attachment, it DID work, and NEVER worked after changing this attachment?

It worked right up to the very moment this connector was changed and failed right after that change was made, is this correct?

If so, DETAIL and explain in great and voluminous verbiage exactly what that change involved.
 
I explained my self better:
The battery is attached to be bike by this mount:

61Xkz0%2Byf1L._AC_SX425_.jpg

As you can see is a seat post mount which has a connector plug the battery.

I buy a replacement battery , which came with and adittional bike battery mount to the seatpost so:

1) I take the new battery and plug it to the old mount. It works fine

2) I take off the old battery mount, and put a new battery mount (because the lock in the old one was not working) . The new battery mount has the same connector to the battery as can be seen in the photo in one side and a XT 90 male connector to the controller in the other side. As the controller didn´t have XT90 output connector for the battery , I replace it to a XT90 female connector. I check the continuity of the new battery mount ( from the battery connector to the controller conector and it was ok)
3) I plug the battery to the new battery mount and the motor does not work ( it seems it want to start making the noise of the video each 2 seconds but the hub doens´t turn)

PD. I cannot return to the old battery mount because the output connector to the battery is different! ( Change it to XT90)
 
From all your talk about connections:
I would triple check with a volt meter that you have the polarities correct on all your connectors and that the insulation on the wires is not damaged. Also check nothing is shorting out anywhere, controller, batter, motor.
 
The problem is almost certainly the new connector you installed.
 
AngryBob said:
The problem is almost certainly the new connector you installed.

Removed some text to make problem easier to understand. Somethings gone wrong with connections in new battery mount. So AngryBob is most certainly correct. I will try to type with "voluminous verbiage" as to not make AngryBob angry.

8fun_fan said:
1) I take the new battery and plug it to the old mount. It works fine

3) I plug the battery to the new battery mount and the motor does not work ( it seems it want to start making the noise of the video each 2 seconds but the hub doens´t turn)

Go fire up your camera. Take some pictures of old and new batteries. Old and new battery mounts and all connectors. Pictures are best with a volt meter attached to wires or connectors so we all can see the electricity. Careful that you only see and not feel the electricity :?
 
The new connector doesnt seems to be the issue, i checked continuity and It is ok. Here is a photo if voltage entering the controller. 26 volts.

MjSEinkTfVBRvpG86

https://photos.app.goo.gl/MjSEinkTfVBRvpG86
I have checked 3 pases cables and hall sensors cables from outside controller to motor hub connector and the continuity is ok. So the cables from outside controller to inside motor are ok.
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNPlXCVgH4EUesbmnMK5l4g6ASr20wkxQTzTwvM
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMboi6rgJmB-aQusDvLBli8PAl1TZc9d5wRccgN
Thanks for the support
 
I checked the hall sensor voltage, as in ebike.ca . So power on , I checked voltage between cables turning the wheel by hand antifreewheeling wise.
Red to black voltage is 4v
Black to blue varies from 0 to 4
Black to Green varies from 0 to 2v
Black to yellow varies from 0 to 1.7v

Is It normal that Green-black and yellow-black doesnt vary up to 4v ?

Could be that the issue?
Thanks
 
Why would hall sensors or controller suddenly be an issue if the bike was running before and all you did was change the battery and mount? While the bike was out of operation did it get knocked over or something so the motor harness got damaged?
 
John in CR said:
Why would hall sensors or controller suddenly be an issue if the bike was running before and all you did was change the battery and mount? While the bike was out of operation did it get knocked over or something so the motor harness got damaged?
I go for a small ride, not issues. It is strange i also tend to think that new connector was the issue as was the difference from before, but continuity is ok.
I do disconnect the harness to repair a small flat tire could be that a hall cable inside motor get faulty?
The only apparent problem seems to be the voltage if the hall sensors.🤔
 
goatman said:
is that an anti-spark xt90 that you installed?

i know nothing about them, just asking
Yes , i have another battery with same connector, works fine.
 
Update. The bike has pedal sensor, i put the bike upside down. I pedal, It try to start but cant. If i mover the wheel a little with my hand (opposite direction if movement as It is freewheel motor) at the same time i pedal It starts working properly! :shock: . I was testing again hall sensor voltage and where between 3v and zero

It works with helping the wheel to start.
It maybe a bad connection of a cable?
 
or bad motor cable, you could try zip tying the cable so it doesnt move or pull pack the plastic cap and wrap electric tape tight arount the cable and axle and put cap back on.
 
I end up opening the motor. There was quite some water inside and oxidation !!!

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOHaqdLQLICG019-c5owociEv1XANrbDYJfdhJrwnctlC1xhf1XDNwiHe6sX5LiPw/photo/AF1QipM52gpqMEJCTqcc1dL-4uSJ9iS9qkZoRpZUDhfP?key=ZENieUhVSHpyRVdXT0diUkVMZkgyMC1seGRVZVRR

Two of the hall sensors have broken legs, so I guess it was doing contact sometimes and sometimes it doesn't.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/vFU6nskXjmqSnMT77

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOHaqdLQLICG019-c5owociEv1XANrbDYJfdhJrwnctlC1xhf1XDNwiHe6sX5LiPw/photo/AF1QipNvqepmxQwve7TOPaCmYIqDPFS9ykKN5etONF9j?key=ZENieUhVSHpyRVdXT0diUkVMZkgyMC1seGRVZVRR

The motor is bafang is this hall sensor valid as replacement
Honeywell SS443A ( 3,8 to 30V voltage. +150 ºC max temperarute)
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/1697662/?grossPrice=Y&cm_mmc=UK-PPC-DS3A-_-google-_-3_UK_EN_Hall+Effect+Sensors_Honeywell_BMM-_-Honeywell+-+Hall+Effect+Sensors+-+1697662+--_-%2Bss443a&matchtype=b&kwd-388651852317&s_kwcid=AL!7457!3!439390435592!b!!g!!%2Bss443a&gclid=CjwKCAjwz6_8BRBkEiwA3p02VedqrSz8a_1eym_bhkWyoUnDPP1tYmVtU81glbH6XjGoK0jhoPaqbhoCS1UQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Is going to be tricky to install the hall sensor without taking out the rotor.
 
Buy a sensorless controller and you dont have to mess with hall sensors.
https://evfittinggreentime.aliexpress.com/store/313864

Looks like you cooked that motor, does or did it smell?
 
Update.
I finally fixed the motor. Change the hall sensor for Honeywell SS411A Bipolar and use epoxy to glue and isolated them. Motor working fine.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOHaqdLQLICG019-c5owociEv1XANrbDYJfdhJrwnctlC1xhf1XDNwiHe6sX5LiPw/photo/AF1QipORIcTLramuz-SdDzbhCj1FT74TENPkEhxMe0gn?key=ZENieUhVSHpyRVdXT0diUkVMZkgyMC1seGRVZVRR
 
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