dnmun
1 PW
14S of lipo is not too much for a 36V controller. but 60V lifepo4 is too much for a 36V controller. that is 72V DC full charge.
Huge price differences in Ebay motors vs Vendors!?
- Thread starter sonnetg
- Start date
If anyone is curious on ebikeling geared motor, I have shot some pics and compared it's size to various motors I have.
I haven't tested it yet, but will install it this weekend. On first impression, it seems cheaply made and the machining quality isn't nearly as good as Bafang 8Fun 250 watt motor. oh..well..i wasn't expecting top quality either
I was really hoping it would be as small and stealthy as the 8FUN 250 watt motor, but it is slightly bigger. It probably is more powerful, but can't wait to actually try it using the same 24 volt battery configuration. I might even push the controller with a 36 volts battery. Will see if the controller can hold up to the abuse.
Overall, it doesn't seem to be a bad deal at all for $190. The real test would be on the road though. Surprisingly, Ebikeling also carries spare parts for this motor, so I have to give a big Thubms-up to folks at Ebikeling for making ebikes very affordable and carrying spare parts for maintainability. Time well tell though how much fun and maintenance free it will be though...
I haven't tested it yet, but will install it this weekend. On first impression, it seems cheaply made and the machining quality isn't nearly as good as Bafang 8Fun 250 watt motor. oh..well..i wasn't expecting top quality either
I was really hoping it would be as small and stealthy as the 8FUN 250 watt motor, but it is slightly bigger. It probably is more powerful, but can't wait to actually try it using the same 24 volt battery configuration. I might even push the controller with a 36 volts battery. Will see if the controller can hold up to the abuse.
Overall, it doesn't seem to be a bad deal at all for $190. The real test would be on the road though. Surprisingly, Ebikeling also carries spare parts for this motor, so I have to give a big Thubms-up to folks at Ebikeling for making ebikes very affordable and carrying spare parts for maintainability. Time well tell though how much fun and maintenance free it will be though...
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docw009
10 MW
This is the ebikeling 36 volt 500W geared 26" hub on my steel frame Trek with 36 volt battery. Both wheel and battery totaled $ 500 USD shipped. Add a few bucks to get some metal brackets at Home Depot. Solder, tie wraps, and heat shrink, I already had.
Now that I have the PAS connected, it seems faster with pedal assist than with throttle plus pedal, but that could be subjective. I have a speedometer coming in soon, and I'll check. In any case, I have enough power, so I won't be going past 36 volts.
The controller did have a speed limiter wire, which I let float. Is that grounded to turn on a speed governor?
I bought this ebay kit because it was cheaper than ordering from China and paying shipping. I paid $199. I also got the battery from the Chinese vendor elifebike.com's ebay store. That was $208 plus $80 shipping. It was marked as a Lithium battery, shipped via Fedex, and also opened/inspected by Fedex.
Now that I have the PAS connected, it seems faster with pedal assist than with throttle plus pedal, but that could be subjective. I have a speedometer coming in soon, and I'll check. In any case, I have enough power, so I won't be going past 36 volts.
The controller did have a speed limiter wire, which I let float. Is that grounded to turn on a speed governor?
I bought this ebay kit because it was cheaper than ordering from China and paying shipping. I paid $199. I also got the battery from the Chinese vendor elifebike.com's ebay store. That was $208 plus $80 shipping. It was marked as a Lithium battery, shipped via Fedex, and also opened/inspected by Fedex.
docw...that is a very sweet looking ebike. As tidy wiring as anyone could get. I wonder how you managed to hide all the spaghetti wiring so nicely. The rear kit even makes it more stealthy.
How does it perform? what is the max speed that you get out of it? I want to bypass the PAS, but i am having second thoughts on doing so. I dont think i would want a sore thumb of constantly pushing on the thumb throttle.
I just realized you dont have a speed meter...oh well let us know once you get one. The odometer is very helpful as well on keeping track of the distance and trips.
I was very concerned with the nylon gears, but it seems rather heavy duty. I will do some stress testing on some nasty hills in my area.
How does it perform? what is the max speed that you get out of it? I want to bypass the PAS, but i am having second thoughts on doing so. I dont think i would want a sore thumb of constantly pushing on the thumb throttle.
I just realized you dont have a speed meter...oh well let us know once you get one. The odometer is very helpful as well on keeping track of the distance and trips.
I was very concerned with the nylon gears, but it seems rather heavy duty. I will do some stress testing on some nasty hills in my area.
docw009
10 MW
Installed speedometer. The controller is capped at 20 mph, which seems fast enough on my beater bike, but I will experiment with the wire marked "speed limit" to see if that does anything.
docw009 said:
It may depend on how much amps the batteries can deliver. You may have to check the BMS rating as well.
That being said, I have a 24 volt controller with a 24 volt rated LED display panel. Would it be possible to push 36 volts using the same 24 volt LED computer pictured below?
This LED computer seems to have various power modes Low/Med/High, On-Off function and 6 Km Max limit along with battery level indicator. I am sure the controller can handle more than 24 volts, but wondering if the LED display will burnout or not. Anyone tried it?
Finally got it installed and took it for a test drive. The max speed I got out with a 24 volt battery was 15 mph. I usually pedal as well, which easily got me 20+ mph on flats. I noticed the motor makes a grinding noise when i push it to full throttle from immediate stop but eventually it goes away after a second or two. I need to investigate where the noise is coming from, but I am most certain it is the motor gears. Not sure if this is something of concern, but it doesn't happen on my Bafang 8Fun 250 watt mini motor installed on my 20" folding bike. (I normally hit the throttle after I build up some speed, so I don't think this would an immediate issue).
That being said..i actually like the motor..definitely a good deal for the price. I also did some further modification to the controller. Added heat shrink tubes and organized the wiring, now it doesn't look nearly as intimidating...but still a lot more work to do with the cables. I might shorten the cables and install JST and Anderson plugs as well. I will ride it more and see what it has in store for me, and will post a follow up review after the honeymoon period is over
Here's a pic of my utility bike, which i use to run errands and stuff..
That being said..i actually like the motor..definitely a good deal for the price. I also did some further modification to the controller. Added heat shrink tubes and organized the wiring, now it doesn't look nearly as intimidating...but still a lot more work to do with the cables. I might shorten the cables and install JST and Anderson plugs as well. I will ride it more and see what it has in store for me, and will post a follow up review after the honeymoon period is over
Here's a pic of my utility bike, which i use to run errands and stuff..
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docw009
10 MW
Good! Nice looking bike. I don't notice any grinding from the 36 volt motor, well maybe I do. Slight growl when I run it with the 6 Kph button held down, That's really slow.
The gearing on my bike is typical mountain bike. I can barely pedal much faster than 21 mph. I'm happy with a sedate 13 mph in PAS mode. Rode 22 miles today at that speed and battery power level still at 4 LED's. I expect 40+ miles at those speeds,
Wrt your LED console, I bet that the console, throttle and pedal sensors all run at low voltage, probably 5 volts, The controller uses a DC-DC converter to power the logic, so it doesn't matter whether it's 24 or 36 volts. What will matter is that the controller will still have its low voltage shutoff set for the smaller battery, so that will ruin a 36 volt battery if it does not have its own cutoff circuit.
I have a 48 volt battery that fits my kit build, but I'm not interested in testing the above bet.
The gearing on my bike is typical mountain bike. I can barely pedal much faster than 21 mph. I'm happy with a sedate 13 mph in PAS mode. Rode 22 miles today at that speed and battery power level still at 4 LED's. I expect 40+ miles at those speeds,
Wrt your LED console, I bet that the console, throttle and pedal sensors all run at low voltage, probably 5 volts, The controller uses a DC-DC converter to power the logic, so it doesn't matter whether it's 24 or 36 volts. What will matter is that the controller will still have its low voltage shutoff set for the smaller battery, so that will ruin a 36 volt battery if it does not have its own cutoff circuit.
I have a 48 volt battery that fits my kit build, but I'm not interested in testing the above bet.
docw009 said:Good! Nice looking bike. I don't notice any grinding from the 36 volt motor, well maybe I do. Slight growl when I run it with the 6 Kph button held down, That's really slow.
The gearing on my bike is typical mountain bike. I can barely pedal much faster than 21 mph. I'm happy with a sedate 13 mph in PAS mode. Rode 22 miles today at that speed and battery power level still at 4 LED's. I expect 40+ miles at those speeds,
Wrt your LED console, I bet that the console, throttle and pedal sensors all run at low voltage, probably 5 volts, The controller uses a DC-DC converter to power the logic, so it doesn't matter whether it's 24 or 36 volts. What will matter is that the controller will still have its low voltage shutoff set for the smaller battery, so that will ruin a 36 volt battery if it does not have its own cutoff circuit.
I have a 48 volt battery that fits my kit build, but I'm not interested in testing the above bet.
Yeah...i am quite happy with with 15 mph and hill assist. I build my own battery packs so I have the flexibility to combine the packs in parallel or in series. I might just get one 36 or 48 volt controller and see how it goes. I am not using any torque arms, so moving to more powerful setup may require some additional hardware or a stronger fork.
By the way, did you resize all the cables? Are you using the same plugs? You organized the cables really well. I also need to resize the cables and upgrade the factory while i am at it...
I found a video on youtube which seems to have the same "noise" issue as my "ebikeling" motor. Under normal operation, my motor is actually much quieter than the one in the video, but if i gun the throttle from a dead stop, it is just as noisy as the motor demonstrated in the video. The whole video is actually worth watching, but I forwarded it to 31 minute, 05 seconds. My wild guess would be the internal planetary gears probably grind hard against the outer gears or scrapes against the shell under high stress. Adding some grease may solve this issue. To take some stress off the motor, I normally pedal to build up some speed (2-4 mph) before I use the electric assist, and I don't hear this squealing noise. I don't this this is an issue with the clutch at this point. Hopefully after the motor breaks in, the gears will spin much smoother.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnGABQ0dBqo#t=31m05s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnGABQ0dBqo#t=31m05s
docw009
10 MW
Automotive looms are an old trick for car tuners. There are better looking products in many colors, but I just went to Advance Auto and got some cheap 1/2" black plastic. There's no easy way to shorten the wires at the ends, so I chopped them in the middle, soldered the ends, and used heat shrink tubing over the joints. As the wires are hidden in the loom, I am counting on the loom to provide mechanical protection.
Normally I would use 4 small pieces of heat shrink for a four wire cable and a larger one over the combo. In this case, I spaced the joints so they could not contact each other, and used one piece of tubing (because I was out of the small stuff). I did do the pedelec sensor properly with three pieces of heat shrink, as that's exposed.
Checking my comfort speeds on flat ground, it's 12 mph on my pedal bike, 14mph on the above kit, and 17mph on a 48V electric beach cruiser.
Normally I would use 4 small pieces of heat shrink for a four wire cable and a larger one over the combo. In this case, I spaced the joints so they could not contact each other, and used one piece of tubing (because I was out of the small stuff). I did do the pedelec sensor properly with three pieces of heat shrink, as that's exposed.
Checking my comfort speeds on flat ground, it's 12 mph on my pedal bike, 14mph on the above kit, and 17mph on a 48V electric beach cruiser.
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Nice. That sure seems weather proof. I agree with how much pain it would be to resize the wires and installing or upgrading the plugs. I was planning on replacing the factory bullet-connectors with Anderson power-poles and the phase connector with JST-SM 5 pin connector, but I just didn't have the time to do so. For now, I will leave it as is because it is working. I have yet to finalize what type of trunk pannier I would like. The one I have is way too big for my 7S4P battery configuration. I am shopping for something smaller, but it's hard to judge the size of these panniers online, but the one I currently have isn't too bad. I noticed the controller heats up fast in the pannier, so I leave a little gap in the zipper to let air in, and it made a huge difference as the controller barely heated. The best option for the controller would be to mount it on the frame, but it is a lot of work, and also takes away the stealthiness factor a bit. I like to surprise all the spandex riders with my ebike...the looks they give me when i zoom past them on a hill is priceless 
I did a stress test with my ebike yesterday. I was able to ride 26 miles with 12 Amp 24 volt battery pack. I pedaled along with the throttle as well, and I could probably have done 5-10 miles more, but didn't want to push the batteries. The battery pack measured 24.2 volts after the ride, which is about 3.5 volts per battery. The speed at max throttle dropped to about 11 mph towards the end of the ride.
At times, during heavy traffic and narrow lanes, I wished i had more speed. I might get a 48 volt controller and use two 24volts in series and see how it goes....i am guessing either the fork or the motor will give out, but I could be wrong. Will probably have to feather the throttle and monitor the motor temperature closely if upgrade to a 48 volt controller that is.
I did a stress test with my ebike yesterday. I was able to ride 26 miles with 12 Amp 24 volt battery pack. I pedaled along with the throttle as well, and I could probably have done 5-10 miles more, but didn't want to push the batteries. The battery pack measured 24.2 volts after the ride, which is about 3.5 volts per battery. The speed at max throttle dropped to about 11 mph towards the end of the ride.
At times, during heavy traffic and narrow lanes, I wished i had more speed. I might get a 48 volt controller and use two 24volts in series and see how it goes....i am guessing either the fork or the motor will give out, but I could be wrong. Will probably have to feather the throttle and monitor the motor temperature closely if upgrade to a 48 volt controller that is.
jose
10 mW
I'm giving my vote of confidence to Ebikeling; w/ apologies to the OP for not seeing this thread earlier.
I got the 36V 350W slow wind front hub kit about two months ago, and couldn't be happier. Started out similar to OP considering the Leed $529 kit; but thought I might learn from ES forum to build myself. Couldn't find small LI-ion battery, so ended up w/ 36V 8.7Ah Li-ion from ES member Tumich. When battery checked-out, I bought the Ebikeling kit.
Had a very minor flaw (wierd failure) in the controller/display head where system wouldn't power-down from the On/Off switch. Asked Ebikeling if I needed to know a special sequence to avoid accidental power-off. They said "if it doesn't power-down w/ the switch, we'll rush you a new controller & display head". And that's what they did. Appreciative of the great customer service, I sent back a Atta-boy note, the "slightly erroneous" display head (for failure analysis), and a check for $20 to cover their cost of the 2nd controller. Happy to have 2nd controller for future troubleshooting/backup.
The eBike is running good w/ PAS & thumb throttle. Added cyclezee torque arm, AliEx BMS and used the Iberia medium size bag for batt & cntrlr. Might have minor grinding noise, but I didn't consider an issue. Don't have enuf miles to make reliability claims.
Final Kudos to Ebikeling, Tumich and the fine people on this forum that made our eBike happen!
I got the 36V 350W slow wind front hub kit about two months ago, and couldn't be happier. Started out similar to OP considering the Leed $529 kit; but thought I might learn from ES forum to build myself. Couldn't find small LI-ion battery, so ended up w/ 36V 8.7Ah Li-ion from ES member Tumich. When battery checked-out, I bought the Ebikeling kit.
Had a very minor flaw (wierd failure) in the controller/display head where system wouldn't power-down from the On/Off switch. Asked Ebikeling if I needed to know a special sequence to avoid accidental power-off. They said "if it doesn't power-down w/ the switch, we'll rush you a new controller & display head". And that's what they did. Appreciative of the great customer service, I sent back a Atta-boy note, the "slightly erroneous" display head (for failure analysis), and a check for $20 to cover their cost of the 2nd controller. Happy to have 2nd controller for future troubleshooting/backup.
The eBike is running good w/ PAS & thumb throttle. Added cyclezee torque arm, AliEx BMS and used the Iberia medium size bag for batt & cntrlr. Might have minor grinding noise, but I didn't consider an issue. Don't have enuf miles to make reliability claims.
Final Kudos to Ebikeling, Tumich and the fine people on this forum that made our eBike happen!
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Congrats! Jose, on your ebike. I am glad too I took the ebikeling plunge. So glad to have the throttle feature. As for the leed kit, the benefit is i can convert my folding ebilke to a regular bike in few minutes if I don't need electric assist, but the push button is a major pain though.
Anyways, let talk about your kit. You mentioned you have similar "grinding" noise. Does this happen when you hit the throttle from a dead stop? I found ways to get around it now. If I pedal and pick up some initial speed and then gently push the throttle, I dont have this problem with the motor struggling. But pedaling from a dead stop isn't always easy, especially in steeep hills, and maxing out the throttle during hill climbs make the noise/stuttering issue worse. To get around this, I use the throttle no more than 10% or 20% during steep inclines. I have a 350 watt motor, which isn't really meant for huge hill climbing, but 99% of the time, i have no issues with most of the ant-hills in Maryland. I also noticed another small issue with the throttle. The throttle doesn't seem to have a smooth curve. I fell like it goes to 10%-20%-30% and then immediately jumps to 70%-100%...oh well..it isn't a big of an issue going 15 mph..lol. I might get different controllers from ebikeling and experiment with those at some point.
Cheers.
Anyways, let talk about your kit. You mentioned you have similar "grinding" noise. Does this happen when you hit the throttle from a dead stop? I found ways to get around it now. If I pedal and pick up some initial speed and then gently push the throttle, I dont have this problem with the motor struggling. But pedaling from a dead stop isn't always easy, especially in steeep hills, and maxing out the throttle during hill climbs make the noise/stuttering issue worse. To get around this, I use the throttle no more than 10% or 20% during steep inclines. I have a 350 watt motor, which isn't really meant for huge hill climbing, but 99% of the time, i have no issues with most of the ant-hills in Maryland. I also noticed another small issue with the throttle. The throttle doesn't seem to have a smooth curve. I fell like it goes to 10%-20%-30% and then immediately jumps to 70%-100%...oh well..it isn't a big of an issue going 15 mph..lol. I might get different controllers from ebikeling and experiment with those at some point.
Cheers.
docw009
10 MW
Like your build Jose. Nice. Also quite happy with the ebikeling kit. No torque arms on mine, as it's a steel frame.
I don't use the throttle from a standing start, so that must be why I have no grinding noise. Just the whir of an electric motor. The ebikeling motor is quieter than the one in my wife's LG bike.
With my controller next to my legs, I once felt some hot air coming off it after I did a hill climb test, but most of the time, it's cool to the touch,
I thought I had a three speed twist throttle, not a continuous control. That's how it feels.
If we think these motors are toys, the other day I was carelessly pushing the bike up the driveway with the 810 controller powered on, and I inadvertantly twisted the throttle. Bike lurched forward and since I was holding by the handlebars, it went up in a wheelie. Did two of them, with the wheel as high as my head before my brain made me let go of the throttle. I did keep the bike from crashing to the ground. That won't happen with a front drive. Lesson learned. Power it off.
I don't use the throttle from a standing start, so that must be why I have no grinding noise. Just the whir of an electric motor. The ebikeling motor is quieter than the one in my wife's LG bike.
With my controller next to my legs, I once felt some hot air coming off it after I did a hill climb test, but most of the time, it's cool to the touch,
I thought I had a three speed twist throttle, not a continuous control. That's how it feels.
If we think these motors are toys, the other day I was carelessly pushing the bike up the driveway with the 810 controller powered on, and I inadvertantly twisted the throttle. Bike lurched forward and since I was holding by the handlebars, it went up in a wheelie. Did two of them, with the wheel as high as my head before my brain made me let go of the throttle. I did keep the bike from crashing to the ground. That won't happen with a front drive. Lesson learned. Power it off.
jose
10 mW
Sonnetg,
After another test-ride, I seem to have a similar experiences as docw009 :
1. Hub noise is more like a whriling sound the motor would make.
2. I also am not motivated to hit the throttle from a standing start; PAS takes half crank to start, so wheels are moving before juice is applied.
3. With limited hill-climbing tested, I'm reasonably satisfied w/ the 36v low-speed kit/battery combo. I hope you got the low-speed wind option 12mph/180rpm? Your use of 10-20% throttle on steep-ups sounds like a very good idea.
4. Throttle (and PAS) smoothness/linearity similar to sonnetg's. Some room for improvement there. Related, Mode (speed) settings feel like about 50%, 75% & 100% power; while I thought 15%, 50% & 100% would be more logical. I also thought of some day upgrading controller, perhaps torque-sensing PAS. Would be nice to know hub compatibility (whose clone are these?) to allow 3rd party controllers.
All-in-all, very happy w/ the kit.
After another test-ride, I seem to have a similar experiences as docw009 :
1. Hub noise is more like a whriling sound the motor would make.
2. I also am not motivated to hit the throttle from a standing start; PAS takes half crank to start, so wheels are moving before juice is applied.
3. With limited hill-climbing tested, I'm reasonably satisfied w/ the 36v low-speed kit/battery combo. I hope you got the low-speed wind option 12mph/180rpm? Your use of 10-20% throttle on steep-ups sounds like a very good idea.
4. Throttle (and PAS) smoothness/linearity similar to sonnetg's. Some room for improvement there. Related, Mode (speed) settings feel like about 50%, 75% & 100% power; while I thought 15%, 50% & 100% would be more logical. I also thought of some day upgrading controller, perhaps torque-sensing PAS. Would be nice to know hub compatibility (whose clone are these?) to allow 3rd party controllers.
All-in-all, very happy w/ the kit.
I have ordered another 36 volt/500 watt kit to convert my wife's bike. All in all...i am happy with it...if it breaks..i can afford another kit at this price point. If these motors are not abused, i have a feeling these should last, but only time can confirm that. I really wish the clutches were welded as one piece for these mini-hub motors. I think the clutches are the weakest point, but I could be wrong. The grinding mostly happens when the nylon gears probably stretch or bend due to heavy load. I weigh 175 lbs, so I am definitely not the lightest rider. At some point, I might add some bearing grease to the gears and see if it smooths things out a bit, but it's not an issue at this point. It just takes a little while to get used to the throttle curve. Coming from RC background, I also noticed the same with most RC ESC controllers. It does take quite a bit of practice to go easy with the thumb on these cheap PWM throttles.
I have not yet tried the PAS though. If you add PAS into the mix, do you also have to install the brakes which came with it, or does the motor automatically shutoff as soon as you stop pedaling?
I have not yet tried the PAS though. If you add PAS into the mix, do you also have to install the brakes which came with it, or does the motor automatically shutoff as soon as you stop pedaling?
jose
10 mW
Wow, another build already (jealous)! Your last build was 24V, right? Should definitely have more power. A little higher Ah ( and/or C-rated) battery may be in order to deliver the amps that (500W) controller wants to pull.
Appreciate the insight on our clutches. Are you implying more expensive hub clutches are welded as one piece, and typically more reliable?
I assumed throttles were simple dc powered variable resistors (vs. PWM); in any case since they are so cheap, they are probably noisy/jumpy. Jumpyness could also be contributed by the controller in it's electronics or software.
My PAS seems to take about a full second after stop peddling; so the instant-off with the supplied brake levers feels very reassuring given my wimpy v-brakes.
You may?? be able to test if your disk brakes can comfortably over-power the motor for that 1-second period; unfortunately probably have to test w/ back-brake.
If you have disks stopping power, you may not need the reassurance of instant-off, that I like. I am getting Kool-Stop pads when things settle down here.
Appreciate the insight on our clutches. Are you implying more expensive hub clutches are welded as one piece, and typically more reliable?
I assumed throttles were simple dc powered variable resistors (vs. PWM); in any case since they are so cheap, they are probably noisy/jumpy. Jumpyness could also be contributed by the controller in it's electronics or software.
My PAS seems to take about a full second after stop peddling; so the instant-off with the supplied brake levers feels very reassuring given my wimpy v-brakes.
You may?? be able to test if your disk brakes can comfortably over-power the motor for that 1-second period; unfortunately probably have to test w/ back-brake.
If you have disks stopping power, you may not need the reassurance of instant-off, that I like. I am getting Kool-Stop pads when things settle down here.
Thanks, Jose. Trying to keep the wiring and swapping of parts to a minimum. To me, less is more. I did take the 24 volt route because it's easier to build a smaller pack and finding a 6S or 7S charger is not too hard to do (and i already had a iMax B6 charger for my RCs). Anyhoo.., at the end, I settled for an iCharger 1010b after few knowledgeable folks here recommended it, so charging a 10S should not be an issue. My wife weighs few more lbs than me...so her bike would be better off with a 500 watt/36 volt motor. (**hushh..i never said that )
We normally go riding on trails over the weekend, but hoping the ebike would allow us to be less reliant on cars. That sure would be a nice accomplishment.
Cheers.
PS: As for welded clutches, I dont think there are any, but I have seen folks on youtube weld the clutch because the drag or cogging wasn't too much of an issue to overcome.
Here's the video I am talking about (fast forwarded to about 20:35): https://youtu.be/t_O4pk4qONU?t=1235
We normally go riding on trails over the weekend, but hoping the ebike would allow us to be less reliant on cars. That sure would be a nice accomplishment.
Cheers.
PS: As for welded clutches, I dont think there are any, but I have seen folks on youtube weld the clutch because the drag or cogging wasn't too much of an issue to overcome.
Here's the video I am talking about (fast forwarded to about 20:35): https://youtu.be/t_O4pk4qONU?t=1235
jose
10 mW
Here, hear on the less is more w/ eBikes...I added the torque arm only because my wife will be using it alot while RVing. Have lotsa slime in front tire, co2 inflator onboard and fingers crossed.
Only added the BMS cuz I couldn't spend $120 on the iCharger 1010b. I created a thread asking if possible to balance my 10S "piecewise" w/ a 6 or 8S balancer...apparently NO; and some folks recmnd the BMS alternative.
Assume w/ ur RC background, ur building LiPo batteries...that keeps the budget under control.
Only added the BMS cuz I couldn't spend $120 on the iCharger 1010b. I created a thread asking if possible to balance my 10S "piecewise" w/ a 6 or 8S balancer...apparently NO; and some folks recmnd the BMS alternative.
Assume w/ ur RC background, ur building LiPo batteries...that keeps the budget under control.
jose said:
Jose...for $180, I pulled the trigger on 10 packs of Samsung 25R batteries (a pack contains four 18650 25R). The total cost would have been the same if I took the lipo route, but li-ion is much safer chemistry with much higher quality and over twice the charge cycles. I haven't build the battery pack yet, but will soon. I also had to invest in a battery welder, so am a bit nervous on trying the 110v welder out. I will post some pictures of the build. (the welder seem a bit weak for 1.5 mm nickel plates, so I will have to layer 1.0 mm plates to handle the current. The welder cost me $150 off Ebay, (it should pay for itself eventually). I also had numerous issues with RC lipo batteries going out of balance and puffing
At least I am able to sleep well with li-ions.Anyhoo, Here's the link of the Samsung 25R battery pack: Samsung 25R: https://www.fasttech.com/p/2706600 I would definitely recommend fasttech for batteries. Have been buying great batteries from them for vaping purpose for years, and Fasttech never let me down yet. They go through hoops to make sure the batteries are authentic.
I have also received the 36 volt kit today. The controller is a bit bigger than the 24v controller, but the number of Mosfets seem to be the same. I will open up the controller case this weekend to note the part numbers and capacitors. I will post some pictures if anyone is interested. I am also planning to replace/upgrade the cheap factory plugs to Anderson PPs and JST SMs.
FYI: I did see your thread. You did good taking the BMS route. I will eventually incorporate a built-in BMS, but seeing the number of BMS failures seemed a bit discouraging. Justin from ebikes.ca had recommended me this BMS: http://www.batteryspace.com/PCM-with-Balancing-Function-for-37V-pack.aspx. Batteryspace.com BMS aren't cheap, but should be reliable..i hope.
Where did you get your BMS and Charger from? The drawback with these BMS, you can't really monitor the packs as you can do with iCharger or B6 charger, but it sure is plug-and-charge for sure.
Ok...i thought I would work on the bike today with the new 36 volt kit which has arrived, but I already ran into a hurdle. Neither the wiring, or the plugs are correct for the throttle. Both the connectors are male JST-SM 3 pin connectors. Now I have the option to return it and wait, or just replace the plugs and give it a try. I will contact eBikeling for sure. I think for now I will replace the controller plugs since I do have few female JST-SM plugs laying around...but buyer be aware!
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Ok....spent and hour or two trying to replace the Male JST-SM connector on the controller and correct the wiring, but no luck. I am pretty sure this controller is a brick. I did some preliminary testing using a volt meter, and the positive (red) and ground (black) controller wires register 5 volts, and I was expecting the ground (black) and signal (white) wire to register about 0 volts, but this also registers about 5 volts. I have tested the motor and controllers on my 24 volt kit, and it works fine. so chances are high the controller is a brick or there is a short somewhere in the controller or wiring.
I have contacted eBikeline and hoping to hear back from them sometimes next week. hah! i knew these cheap chinese kits would require quite a bit of troubleshooting and learning curve....lol. There is obviously no QA on these kits! Buy it at your own risk kind of deal.
I have contacted eBikeline and hoping to hear back from them sometimes next week. hah! i knew these cheap chinese kits would require quite a bit of troubleshooting and learning curve....lol. There is obviously no QA on these kits! Buy it at your own risk kind of deal.
Finally finished organizing the "crow's-nest" wiring on my 24 volt ebikeling controller. Got rid of all the plugs and connectors I didn't need (eg, PAS & Brakes), and the controller looks much tidiers and less intimidating. I was hoping to replace the phase connectors with anderson PP and hall sensor connectors with JST-SMs, but that's not gonna happen anytime soon. Crimping is just not up my alley
Anyways...here's a pic. It doesn't look too bad. I had a slew of colored heat shrink wraps which i had no use for, so it was a good way to utilize these. The heat shrinks seems to give these wires extra strength and durability as well. Hopefully no broken wires or shorts anytime soon.
Cheers.
Anyways...here's a pic. It doesn't look too bad. I had a slew of colored heat shrink wraps which i had no use for, so it was a good way to utilize these. The heat shrinks seems to give these wires extra strength and durability as well. Hopefully no broken wires or shorts anytime soon.
Cheers.
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Woo Hoo...i was finally able to get it working. Thanks to this forums. I started searching for "Throttle wiring" "Throttle issues" and there were numerous post related to similar issues.
Anyways...i was too concerned about color matching. The actual controller throttle plug has Red/Black/Green color scheme, but the throttle itself had a Red/Black/White color scheme. I did a quick measure using my handy volt meter and the Red + read 5 volts and the Green (signal) measure at 0.2 Volts...so I plugged the throttle into it and walla, i was able to crank the motor. Looks like everything is working. No need to deal with return shipment and hassles.
I suppose that's what you have to deal with when you try out really cheap chinese motors. No documentation, No consistency or QA in products. You are left to figure it all out. Great if you like problem solving, but not so great if you just want things to work. Cheers!
Anyways...i was too concerned about color matching. The actual controller throttle plug has Red/Black/Green color scheme, but the throttle itself had a Red/Black/White color scheme. I did a quick measure using my handy volt meter and the Red + read 5 volts and the Green (signal) measure at 0.2 Volts...so I plugged the throttle into it and walla, i was able to crank the motor. Looks like everything is working. No need to deal with return shipment and hassles.
I suppose that's what you have to deal with when you try out really cheap chinese motors. No documentation, No consistency or QA in products. You are left to figure it all out. Great if you like problem solving, but not so great if you just want things to work. Cheers!
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