Human/Bike Powered Electric Generator

Currently debating the pros and cons of hooking up bike directly to alternator by putting a wheel on the alternator and forcing the 2 together or taking the tire off the rim of my bike and trying to do a belt around tire and alternator (Like they did in the link above)...

Any input anyone?
 
The case is always the negative, the fat wire is positive. The smaller wires are typically a bias for the regulator, at least one of them has to be hooked up to battery for the alternator to work.

That's assuming this model alternator has the regulator built inside.
 
Sweet! Does it matter which way the alternator turns?

(Found out, always clockwise.)
 
It's ghetto as all hell but it works!!! Bike stand is almost completely set up. A few screws still need to be screwed in... Moms boyfriend left and took the power drill charger but not the drill which killed on me halfway through the project. Hopefully I'll be able to borrow a friends drill in a few hours (when his dad gets off work) to finish mounting the alternator.

My sweet 175 lbs test zip ties keeping the front wheel straight.

All old photos can be found here http://s424.photobucket.com/albums/pp330/l0ki7714/HPEG/
 
So what am I looking at there? It's all a bit confusing...
The diagram i mean. I do really appreciate u looking it up for me :)
What's a field connector/field driver terminal?
 
Is your alternator just a car alternator, with it's own built-in regulator? Or is it one that requires an external regulator?

If it has it's own, then it probably only has two leads coming out, one for ground and one for +12V. You'd just hook those to a 12V car battery or similar; if your battery is different you'd need to convert that.

If it requires an external regulator, and you are using a car battery or similar, then you can just use a car regulator, too. Otherwise you'd need to make your own, or buy one that will work for the battery you are using.


BTW, be careful about zip ties. Even with good ones, sometimes the little tooth-catcher in the end of it snaps under loads that vary. Radiator hose clamps can be a much stronger/better way of securing such things. :)
 
amberwolf said:
Is your alternator just a car alternator, with it's own built-in regulator? Or is it one that requires an external regulator?

If it has it's own, then it probably only has two leads coming out, one for ground and one for +12V. You'd just hook those to a 12V car battery or similar; if your battery is different you'd need to convert that.

If it requires an external regulator, and you are using a car battery or similar, then you can just use a car regulator, too. Otherwise you'd need to make your own, or buy one that will work for the battery you are using.


BTW, be careful about zip ties. Even with good ones, sometimes the little tooth-catcher in the end of it snaps under loads that vary. Radiator hose clamps can be a much stronger/better way of securing such things. :)
Click to expand...

Thought about using those things just much more expensive... And to see what kind of alternator it is (besides the fact that its a dodge grand caravan alternator) check the diagrams at the top of the page. Also the link above your post has exactly the info I need I think. What kind of wire do I use when I'm wiring all this up?
 
Wire size depends on the current. Max current is the rating of the alternator. Could be 100 amps. Could be 150 amps. Could be something else. Practically it might be less since you probably won't be able to pedal hard enough to get full amps.
 
Important question. Could I splice this lil sucker into my Dark Green field generator driver. It's a Micro indicator lamp. 12V, 35 mA. 0.12" / 3.0 mm diameter.)
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=070-235&scqty=1

070-235_s.jpg
 
Dude awesome idea!!! The great thing about using an alternator is u can adjust resistance in the field driver wire to adjust rpms u need to get it going but less rpms does equal needing more torque need though.
 
A controllable field is a wonderful thing but bear in mind, the excitation for that field comes at a price.
Even though your battery provides the energy for the field, a good portion of your pedal power is needed to replace that energy spent in creating the field.
 
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