Hyena's e-bike builds (now with HD video)

Used, maybe :p
Nah I don't have any 5404s surplus to my requirements - they're all preordered and all spoken for. I do have a few HI40s though - which is what this motor is. Same width magnets as the 5404 but with a much lighter stamped stator instead of a solid cast one. I'm not sure I'll sell the bare motors yet though, they'll probably be a limited run of whole kits with beefy 18 fet controllers and custom CNC machined air cooled side covers. Once I get the CNC work set up I can probably offer those side covers for other motors too on an exchange basis (or you can mail me yours)
 
full-throttle said:
sn0wchyld said:
yea I managed to find a couple of db37 covers
Click to expand...
Are you using DB37 - why not DB25? 24s would only req 25 contacts..

Dust cap for DB25 from Farnell (free delivery over $10) is $1.20

If you are really desperate I can try and talk to them or other suppliers and get the DB37 one from the states
Click to expand...

I think the idea is to use more than one contact on the main charge leads, for extra current carrying.
 
spot on sico. I bulk charge to 100v via the db37, at 8A, using 5 pins each for the + and -. and have 3 sub packs wired to the db37 as individual 8s packs, since my lipo charger is 8s max. also, I plan on having a booster pack, so with 1 plug I can parallel another 6 4s5ah packs via both the individual balance leads and the main discharge cables, allowing 5 pins for the + and - of the 24s booster pack. If the pins can take 5A that gives me a peak of 25A from the booster pack, or 75A total, more than enough for the foreseeable future given I'm only on 40A at the mo.

It all makes for a hornets nest of wires, but also means that I shouldn't need to open my battery casing unless something breaks/dies.


Thanks for the offer FT, but I spent about 5 min tonight trying to make my own cover before a ride, using a spare housing from a male db37 and some aluminium, looks kinda crude at the moment but with a bit more time and effort should work quite well.
 
Hyena said:
Used, maybe :p
Nah I don't have any 5404s surplus to my requirements - they're all preordered and all spoken for. I do have a few HI40s though - which is what this motor is. Same width magnets as the 5404 but with a much lighter stamped stator instead of a solid cast one. I'm not sure I'll sell the bare motors yet though, they'll probably be a limited run of whole kits with beefy 18 fet controllers and custom CNC machined air cooled side covers. Once I get the CNC work set up I can probably offer those side covers for other motors too on an exchange basis (or you can mail me yours)
Click to expand...

Thats what i like : not ready made but custom custom and more custom ! :) :D
 
I haven't actually completely removed the stator to measure it to the nanometre but I assume from from removing one side cover it's right - the hub is 50mm wide and the stator and magnets sit 5mm in from the edge, so allowing the same gap on the other side that makes it 40mm. When I remove both covers for CNC'ing I'll measure the stator exactly but it looks to be right. Not much point having 40mm magnets with a smaller stator in it.
 
In regards to the cl5404, I sent an email to order a kit a little while ago, I guess I was too far down the list!!!!

Any more on their way? Or anything else 10kW compatible?
 
Did you email me about the 5404s when the group buy was on or later ?? I thought I'd included everyone in that and made several 'last chance' posts before placing the order so apologies if I missed it. If you emailed me months ago to my general account when I was on my death bed that email is probably still buried amongst the tonne of spam and other emails I've yet to sort through. Shoot me another email now so it comes to the top - I'm keeping on top of the current emails now but ones from months ago are getting pushed further and further back and it's probably easier to assume if I haven't been recontacted recently their interest has passed (the majority of people who ask 100 questions and want detailed answers are tyre kickers anyway :| )

As I said previously there's no more 5400 motors, possibly ever. I do have some roughly comparable HI40s but I'm not sure what I'll do with those yet.

As for 10kw, that's a big ask from any motor. 5kw is a more reasonable upper limit, and I can make you something that can do more than that in short bursts but accept no responsiblity if you smoke it.
 
I cant remember If I sent you an email from my private accout, I definately sent you one through here.... It's why I joined this site, to order a kit from you.. I will look when I get home, and let u know.

Ta.
 
kiqnkf said:
Or anything else 10kW compatible?
Click to expand...

This :?

1.png

voltage maximum: 58 V
specific idle running speed: 47 1/min/V
specific nominal load speed: 42 1/min/V
rotational speed limit value: 2500 1/min
rated current: 190 A
max. motor current: up to 230 A (according to fresh air cooling)
max. stator temperature: 100 °C
rated input power: 10’000 VA
nominal effectiveness: approx. > 93%
Iinternal resistance phase to phase: 7,8 mOhm
total inductance phase to phase. 14,5 µh
Ri 7,8 mOhm
coiling number: 36
magnetic pole number: 42
coil number: 18/36
torque constant: 0,22 Nm/A
Hallsensor feedback: without
Vector group: delta
weight incl. connecting lines: 3,75 kg
dimensions: diam. 21,8 cm – length: 7,1 cm
 
Looks like a crashed UFO - with bling....

What the hell is it? Where do the spokes go???? Do I just connect it to my helmet and hook the wires up? Does it rely on "Warp-Drive" technology or something?
 
It's a Flytec paraglider motor, could be a complex and dangerous build :mrgreen:

http://www.flytec.ch/en/e-drive/e-drive-products/hpd-10/overview.html
 
Oh....

So I DO strap it to my helmet and run wires to it..... Why didn't ya tell me?? :D
 
Hyena said:
I haven't actually completely removed the stator to measure it to the nanometre but I assume from from removing one side cover it's right - the hub is 50mm wide and the stator and magnets sit 5mm in from the edge, so allowing the same gap on the other side that makes it 40mm. When I remove both covers for CNC'ing I'll measure the stator exactly but it looks to be right. Not much point having 40mm magnets with a smaller stator in it.
Click to expand...

Just trying to figure it out :) You mentioned its not much heavier then a a 35 series motor but logically if you pack in a heap more copper to suit a 40mm stator, the weight would increase significantly.

I was thinking perhaps the combination of larger magnets and a bigger air gap between the covers and stator may have been the contributing factors to the better power handeling capability of this motor. :?

Do you know if this is going to be a production motor that will be offered in the future our is just a short run experimental thing? It sounds like it would be a very desirable motor.
 
Kepler said:
Just trying to figure it out :) You mentioned its not much heavier then a a 35 series motor but logically if you pack in a heap more copper to suit a 40mm stator, the weight would increase significantly.
Click to expand...
There's not a HEAP more copper - the stator looks the same as the H35 just a little wider. So realistically they're not worlds apart - a few extra laminations and a bit more copper to go with it. Sadly the copper content doesn't look like ye crystalytes of olde, but you could argue alot of the windings that makes them look bulky are end turn losses anyway...
But yes it does seem to have a better air gap which must help.
I don't think it's going to be offered as one of their staple motors but given how alot is shared with the H35s I think they will be more easily ordered and I know theres some headed to the US with the 5400 shipment. They are disproportionately more expensive than the H35s for what they are but when you're pushing the boundaries for more and more power I guess the price tends to go up exponentially. Plus I guess they're more expensive to make on a smaller scale. I reckon we've probably seen the last of the 5400s though.
 
Yeah thats very impressive.

In non-fighter news, taking my other bike to work this morning I nearly crashed before even making it out of my own driveway :lol:

As I powered up the driveway I took one hand off the bars to wave goodbye to my son, just then the front wheel lifted and the bike pitched massively sideways but I kept the power on and managed to hold it. When it doubt, power out! :mrgreen:

The second vaguely related one was from last week - I was braking fairly hard and a dodgy wire in my throttle shorted wide open for a split second. I guess it caused the front wheel to lift a bit and then went squirelly under brakes.

[youtube]A3PsVFDxupI[/youtube]

I also bumped into a postie on a ebike on my way to work so stopped for a chat. Of course, I ended our discussion with challenging him to a race :p
I'll post that up shortly when I edit it.
 
Hey Jay, with the wire short mishap, how does that happen? A mate of mine who I helped get setup with a basic 9C setup with a Lyen infineon controller with stock throttle, was riding all fine for months, really stayed riding, no visible damage to wires or connections etc.., just went out to get on his bike in the work changeroom/storeroom, turned on his bike and it just went full throttle with no throttle touched. Left a rubber burn out in the carpet and then sent him slamming into the walls. He replaced the throttle and all was fine. There was no obvious sign of damage to the wiring or connections in his throttle, and no event to precipitate it. What causes that? Is it as simple as the wire getting squashed at some point and shorting two wires together? Why would yours do it intermittently? Just curious.
 
Hey Phil,
I'd say in my case it's because I'm using the bare male throttle pins shoved into the plastic female side on the controller and there's potential for wires to short together if you whack the connector with your knees - which I suspect I may have done. Laziness on my part for not finding a proper plastic housing for the throttle plug but I'd only intended it to be a quick test and never got around to fixing it properly! (was swapping controllers and the pin order was different) If there was no water in the connector on your mates bike it could be just a loose throttle wire (often a pin that has partially backed out of the housing) I've had them where you can plug a throttle into an already powered up bike (or a like above one pin gets pushed out and you reconnect it) and the bike will lurch away at WOT. High powered ebikes taking off without you can be no fun - refer to my previous video "when ebikes attack" :lol:

aaaand here's the vid with the postie.
I've seen them when driving before but never had a look up close at the Australia post ebikes. Small front hub and tiny 6 fet controller - presumably 24 or maybe 36v.
I gave the guy a head start as I knew the race would be over quickly but it actually got off the line quicker than I thought it would. I may have played things down a little when I said my motor was a little more powerful than his... :p


[youtube]95fIQvELn2s[/youtube]
 
Hahaha that's classic.

Wow imagine if you started selling kits to Australia post.

Parts from china might get delivered a whole lot quicker OR end up in a flaming crumpled heap when beardie postie dude goes WOT.... But a fantastic vid
 
Hobbit said:
Wow imagine if you started selling kits to Australia post.
Click to expand...
That would be a lucritive deal! I wonder how long the 200w stickers would keep me out of trouble ? :p

I managed 10 minutes between down pours today to get out for a quick scoot on the fighter. I'm still waiting on the rest of my connectors and a few other bits to arrive before I can tidy up the wiring so for now it's still a bit of a mess. But here's a few different camera angles I was playing around with with a strong magnetic gopro mount I made. Ah, the beauty of a steel frame! Incidently I found out the side covers are actually aluminium as my mount wouldn't stick to them, which did limit things a little. Being flat though I can probably quite easily use the motorsports suction cup mount. The good thing about the magnetic mount is that it holds on quite tight (uses 2 large hard drive magnets) but is easily moved to another location in just a few seconds.

[youtube]yuvq7PpLfqM[/youtube]
 
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