I do not like the walk of shame :-(

Another issue with MDF is it absorbs water and softens, especially at rougher areas like cut edges and drilled holes. So right at the spots it needs to be strongest, it is weakest when wet. Worse, I expect in the UK wet or at least damp is a perpetual condition, rather like the pacific northwest here in the US. :(

I just don't want to see you end up with the whole box just falling right off on some wet day, because the bolt holes softened so much they let it fall off. :(

If you *have* to use the MDF for some reason, I would at least move the brackets that surround the box toward the center (or add some) so taht they make a complete strap around the box, using the same bolts that hold it onto the bike to secure the ends of the brackets. A continous strip of metal around the box would at least let you retain the box on the bike if the boltholes themselves began to weaken enough that they can't support it anymore.

Even better would be to make the support to the bike not just be thru the top of the box, but rather as a wrap starting from the tube above the ends of the box, down the ends, under/across the bottom, as a continous wrap. This would give support to the box so it is not hanging from the bike, exactly. It'd still go off if the strap broke, but it would be better than it is now.

You could also add quick-removal strapping around the sides over the tube, using box/pallet strapping like I have on my battery box on CrazyBike2. There are a few kinds of fasteners out there for them, so just try to arrive at the various stores that get stuff in pallet form when they are receiving their loads (often weekly), and see if they'll let you take the strapping with you, and be sure to get the fasteners. Some of them use spring clips that are easily reused and would work very well for your purpose. Even if you have to cut the strapping to access the inside of the box, you won't need to do that very often anyway, so just keep extra strapping around to redo it when that happens. It'll be extra security against a mounting failure, *and* it will remove some stress from the actual mounting and the box so that a failure is less likely in the first place.
 
Luckily I've avoided the walk of shame for the most part but I have had to do the pedal of pain. 72lbs of ebike about 3 miles from home. Saw my voltage plummet and knew something was wrong so I shut down and began pedaling, luckily I was on my mountain bike with 21 gears to choose from and where I live doesn't have any steep grades. Just took my time. Turns out I could have fixed it since it was just a loose wire but the one pack was already pretty low so I didn't risk the batteries.

Flats, hate them. When I run bicycle tires I run double wall rims, rim tape, usually and additional layer of duct tape, tube, then a tire liner and have been good since then. My fast bike was switched over to Pirelli moped tires since it's not pedaled a lot. Heavy tires and tubes, but I don't worry about flats on it. Only need run them at 35 psi and they coast really well too which surprised me.

I've also blown fuses when playing around so I always carry at least one spare.
 
Xanda2260 said:
I'm gonna dump the mdf, just picked up an abs plastic box that might be useful, Once its supported underneath!
Careful with the ABS, too; I have an ABS box I didn't properly support for my battery, and the wiggling over time cracked the edges and almost dumped *my* battery out. :roll:
 
I've dropped the box, too big. Got a frame support welded up. Only supported one nd at the moment, will troangulate once Im sure how much space I need. Have found the perfect box for the batteries though! Ironcally it a petrol can...

IMAG0170.jpg


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Almost like it was made for lipo!
 
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Bending Brake 50 USD


+


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Jigsaw Tool 40 USD


+


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Aluminum Sheet 90 USD


+


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Rivet Gun 15 USD


Step 1: Measure dimensions of your bike's triangle.

Step 2: Draw the outline of the triangle on the aluminum using a marker. Include panels that will be folded later to form a box.

Step 3: Cut the aluminum using the jigsaw.

Step 4: Fold the alumimum into the box shape using the bending brake tool.

Step 5: Rivet together any panels that need it.

All those tools (and the leftover aluminum) can be used for other projects in a lot of cases. No special tooling experience is necessary to use the jigsaw, bending brake and the rivet gun.

It may seem expensive overall but it's an investment in your bike's aesthetics, handling and crash safety. i.e. A separate housing can be made to tuck the controller into (ala the stealth bomber). Also you get to have your batteries in an optimal position for bike handling.
 
This is the non-wire side. I'm planning to take proper pics soon along with gopro footage once it gets sunny.

I put that fake carbon fiber plastic over it so it doesn't stand out as much.
 

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Here's attempt number 3. We'll see if it holds up any better...

I was looking at your battery box. Here is a picture of my aluminum battery box using .040 thick aluminum (same thickness as computer case aluminum) and angle aluminum that is spot welded on the inside. Very strong. It's easily removed to balance charge with the graphics displayed on my computer screen. One day I even mounted it back in the triangle after balance charging it and forgot to strap it in and it detached from the andersens and fell to the ground. The battery box was unhurt.
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"Xanda wrote: Think I've solved it! Works great.

Love your custom build. Just be sure that petrol is very empty or you won't even be walking in shame :mrgreen:
JK, seriously nice skills you have and great end result! Does the seat flex at all? I ask b/c I want to place an RC motor in that spot on a two wheeled recumbent.
 
Batteries in a petrol can....brilliant, i can see Officer Dibble scraching his head with that one.
You could try making a box from 4mm perspex and some B&Q metal channel. Perspex is light/strong and cheap. I use small nuts and bolts to hold it all together. Not keen on rivets.
 
kevo said:
Love your custom build. Just be sure that petrol is very empty or you won't even be walking in shame :mrgreen:
JK, seriously nice skills you have and great end result! Does the seat flex at all? I ask b/c I want to place an RC motor in that spot on a two wheeled recumbent.

The seat doesn't flex noticeably, but I have reinforced it a bit near where the rear fork meets the seat tube.

Sent using the might of the Android Army!
 
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