i think i blew a hall sensor...

[wasp]

when i lift the rear of my bike and spin the wheel by hand i get a herky jerky feel
when i turn it on and apply power i get nothing or a sudden rush then studder
i have felt this before when i forgot to hook up the hall sensor
is there a way of testing this without pulling the motor apart?

 

[wasp]

anyone...

 

[wasp]

were are all the tech's

 

[swbluto]

Starting at ten minutes before you first posted, they unanimously decided to take an hour break. If you wait a little longer, one may soon arrive.

 

[liveforphysics]

when i lift the rear of my bike and spin the wheel by hand i get a herky jerky feel
when i turn it on and apply power i get nothing or a sudden rush then studder
i have felt this before when i forgot to hook up the hall sensor
is there a way of testing this without pulling the motor apart?

Disconnect the battery from the controller. Spin the wheel by hand. If it turns stiffly and herky-jerky, it's not related to a hall sensor, it's a shorted phase lead, or blown FETs in a channel in the controller.

 

[wasp]

Starting at ten minutes before you first posted, they unanimously decided to take an hour break. If you wait a little longer, one may soon arrive.

well being friday night...they probably have social lives...i wish i did
unhooked all wiring and motor turns normal(by hand)

 

[wasp]

how do i check the hall sensors?
do i use the black wire on the 5pin connector to black on dmm then red to each of the other hall wires and spin the wheel by hand and record the readings?
i read some in the search but they talked about measuring off the phaze wires?

 

[liveforphysics]

Starting at ten minutes before you first posted, they unanimously decided to take an hour break. If you wait a little longer, one may soon arrive.

well being friday night...they probably have social lives...i wish i did
unhooked all wiring and motor turns normal(by hand)

You need to do the test I told you. Just disconnect the battery, leave the motor wiring hooked up exactly as it goes.

If the controller isn't powered, a hall sensor can have no effect on how the motor turns. However, if a FET stage is blown, then it WILL effect how the motor turns when un-powered.

If you want help, follow directions.

 

[swbluto]

With the battery hooked in, take a volt-meter and attach the black one to ground and the red to one of the hall sensor's signal lines. Rotate the motor by hand. Does the hall sensor go from 0 to 5 volts in a patterned way?

Do this to all three signal lines, and you'll effectively have tested your hall sensors.

Alternatively, you could check the resistance between the sensor's pos-signal and gnd-signal and pos-gnd. A blown sensor may likely be shorted.

 

[wasp]

Starting at ten minutes before you first posted, they unanimously decided to take an hour break. If you wait a little longer, one may soon arrive.

well being friday night...they probably have social lives...i wish i did
unhooked all wiring and motor turns normal(by hand)

You need to do the test I told you. Just disconnect the battery, leave the motor wiring hooked up exactly as it goes.

If the controller isn't powered, a hall sensor can have no effect on how the motor turns. However, if a FET stage is blown, then it WILL effect how the motor turns when un-powered.

If you want help, follow directions.

sorry i didn't fully understand you the first time
and thx for taking the time to help me out
i rehooked the phaze,hall and throttle back up and spun the wheel
it still cogs...so is it the controller?

 

[liveforphysics]

sorry i didn't fully understand you the first time
and thx for taking the time to help me out You're welcome.
i rehooked the phaze,hall and throttle back up and spun the wheel
it still cogs...so is it the controller?

Yep, if it cogs hard with no battery connected to the controller, but everything thing else connected, it means two possible things.

#1. A short somewhere in the phase wires on the way to the controller. Trace each phase wire manually by hand to ensure it has no melted points that could be shorting. Check whatever connector you're using to ensure it hasn't melted and shorted inside.

#2. You've got blown FETs in the controller.


Option 1 is a pretty easy fix. Option 2 is something you will likely want someone who knows they're doing to make the FET swap, or if it's a very cheap controller, buy something better from member "Lyen".

 

[wasp]

sorry i didn't fully understand you the first time
and thx for taking the time to help me out You're welcome.
i rehooked the phaze,hall and throttle back up and spun the wheel
it still cogs...so is it the controller?

Yep, if it cogs hard with no battery connected to the controller, but everything thing else connected, it means two possible things.

#1. A short somewhere in the phase wires on the way to the controller. Trace each phase wire manually by hand to ensure it has no melted points that could be shorting. Check whatever connector you're using to ensure it hasn't melted and shorted inside.

#2. You've got blown FETs in the controller.


Option 1 is a pretty easy fix. Option 2 is something you will likely want someone who knows they're doing to make the FET swap, or if it's a very cheap controller, buy something better from member "Lyen".

thank you

 

[wasp]

With the battery hooked in, take a volt-meter and attach the black one to ground and the red to one of the hall sensor's signal lines. Rotate the motor by hand. Does the hall sensor go from 0 to 5 volts in a patterned way?

Do this to all three signal lines, and you'll effectively have tested your hall sensors.

Alternatively, you could check the resistance between the sensor's pos-signal and gnd-signal and pos-gnd. A blown sensor may likely be shorted.

i followed this and with a light spin on the wheel i get up tp 0.80v on each ryg hall wires does that sound right?

 

[John in CR]

Hall sensors do not cause cogging. Stop messing with the halls before you fry them too.

Disconnect the motor from the controller. Make sure the ends of the phase wires on the motor don't touch each other. If it spins without the jerky cogging, then you're ok all the way from the motor to it's connectors. If it cogs, then you have a short there.

With the controller completely disconnected (to avoid further problem), measure the resistance of each phase wire to the pos and neg wires that go to the battery. All 6 measurement should be something high like 9k ohms. A low resistance in one of the phases indicates a FET problem.

When you disconnect the controller, it's a good habit to discharge the caps in the controller. Otherwise the pos/neg wires are just waiting to zap something. Turning the controller on without it connected to the battery should run the caps down.

 

[wasp]

Hall sensors do not cause cogging. Stop messing with the halls before you fry them too.

Disconnect the motor from the controller. Make sure the ends of the phase wires on the motor don't touch each other. If it spins without the jerky cogging, then you're ok all the way from the motor to it's connectors. If it cogs, then you have a short there.

With the controller completely disconnected (to avoid further problem), measure the resistance of each phase wire to the pos and neg wires that go to the battery. All 6 measurement should be something high like 9k ohms. A low resistance in one of the phases indicates a FET problem.

When you disconnect the controller, it's a good habit to discharge the caps in the controller. Otherwise the pos/neg wires are just waiting to zap something. Turning the controller on without it connected to the battery should run the caps down.

thx for the reply john
now i've got a new lyen 18fet controller and it still doesn't work...
no cogging i've checked
should i split the wire sheath to the motor to check for wires shorted together ?
i do not no how to measure resistence or what setting on the dmm?

 

[wasp]

bump

 

[wasp]

gott motor running with new lyen(thx) controller the problem was with throttle wires on bike were reversed!!!
thx to everyone for getting me back up (2 weeks downtime and beautiful weather was driving me nuts)
i know to ensure no more downtime i MUST build a backup ebike lol

 

[John in CR]

Glad to hear you're up. At least you learned how to do a lot of types of troubleshooting in the process, and hopefully to next time start with the small and simple stuff. Throttle wires would have been my first thing to try, because lots of throttles have weird wiring colors. I like to splice in a length of logical coloring wires at the end; red +5v, black gnd, and other for the sensor wire. That way that throttle is never an issue again.

 

[Gwaihir]

Hey Gang,

Thinking I have a hall sensor problem (rough rotation when applying throttle from 0%, then cut's out @ ~ 1/4 throttle), I've been out looking and stumbled upon this thread. I have completed the hall signal check (grd to each signal wire) and found:

Ground + yellow = 5v to 0 back to 5 as I spin the hub slowly (a properly functioning signal?)
Ground + Blue = 5v all the way around, no variance in the signal as I spin the hub (NFG?)
Ground + green = 5v to 0 back to 5 as I spin the hub slowly (a properly functioning signal?)

What does it mean when the signal no longer pulses? If this is an issue with the hall sensor - is it a difficult fix?

Any info is appreciated, thanks!!

 

[jateureka]

sounds like a bad hall sensor.
You could try doing a search for hall sensor repair or replacement.
Here are some links from the technical reference section:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=3720
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=3484

 

[BLUESTREAK]

Just get one of LYEN'S sensorless controllers and forget about the hall's.