Ideal lighting for push-trailer?

REdiculous

10 kW
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My trailer will have an inverter on board so I'll have both ac and dc power sources, and can even use ac-dc converters for lower dc voltages and current levels. Obviously this can kill my potential range but it gives me a good opportunity to light the place up, so to speak.

What kind of lighting would you use, if you could? Practicality, price and availability win over weird, or cool but out of reach...but those answers are good too. Obviously 500w halogens are out, but a 15w cfl might work..heh.

Fancy LED license plate? What else?
 
Look at (SUNTEKSTORE.COM) it will take a little bit of searching on the site but thay have some of the best leds i have seen. :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
 
Amberwolf, good thread! That's kind of the direction I was thinking of going.

I have AC on board so I think I'll start looking for regular low-watt AC bulbs. I have some CFL flood lamps that don't draw too much but they don't produce the best light and kick out way too much of it...and they're a bit big.

I have some regular 15w CFLs but they're still kind of big, hungry and super-bright. Maybe I should add a light pole to the trailer and put out more light than the street lamps..heh..nah. I'll do something eventually though.
 
REdiculous said:
I have some regular 15w CFLs but they're still kind of big, hungry and super-bright. Maybe I should add a light pole to the trailer and put out more light than the street lamps..heh..nah. I'll do something eventually though.
They are definitely super-bright. I'd say that my taillight using a 15W CFL on the ~50-ish VDC it gets back there is brighter than most car taillights, except for some of the newer LED-array ones. Even when my pack runs down and it's only getting enough voltage to barely stay on it's enough to be at least as bright as older car taillights.

As for "hungry", I assume you mean power-wise. If so, I don't know of any more efficient lighting you could stick on there except for LEDs, which you'd either need a lot of little ones or a few more expensive bright ones to match the light output of the CFL. :) The CFLs take about 250mA or less at their rated voltage; I don't recall what mine takes at less than half that voltage but I probably put it in that thread.

You can even use two of them, one with a cutoff switch so that it stays off except when you are braking. I don't know how long it would last being switched on and off like that so often, but they are pretty cheap if you look around for sales. ;)

As for being "big", remember that the more surface area a light has, the better chance it has of being seen. Just being bright does not guarantee being seen. When I used a CCFL transparency adapter from a computer scanner as a headlight, I was much more visible to everyone from all forward angles than with any other light I have ever tried (and will be putting one back on there at some point).

If you want to run the CFL at a lower brightness, you could actually just take an old transformer out of something and hook it's output side to the CFL, and it's input to the inverter output. It would probably have to be a 2:1 to be sure of kickstarting the CFL, so that it gets at least around 50V out of the inverter's 120VAC output. If the inverter is lower output than that, it'd have to be a ratio that gives that 50V or so.

If you wanted to get complex with it, you could make switchable ratios, so that it starts at a higher voltage (50V or above) to kickstart it, then switch down to only about 30-36V for minimum output before it shuts off. Problem is that every time it shuts off you have to switch back to the higher voltage to start it again.

Or optionally, just color it with a red permanent marker and/or wrap in red clear party wrap before you stick it in your red taillight housing. :) Or use window tinting on the inside of the housing lens, in enough layers to cut down the brightness to the desired level.

I have seen blue / UV CFLs, but not other colors (besides white variations), however if they do make them you could just use those and they'll probably put out less light to start with, then filtering them further with your taillight lens/etc to cut more.

THe disadvantage to CFLs is that they are fragile. I have had one fail in the taillight; I'm not sure why yet as I still haven't gone back to open it up to check why. It's replacement has not failed yet, but I also haven't ridden that bike in months due to the chain alignment problems I must redesign parts of it to fix. :(
 
spinningmagnets said:
good search terms: push trailer, pusher trailer, and power trailer
He has also collected many trailer threads here.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=9855&start=0&hilit=trailer

Searching 'trailer' only gives more hits but then you will need to sift through it more to find actual build threads.
 
For front and tail lights, I use a 1A LED (luxeon, I think) that I got from http://www.theledlight.com. I put the red and white one in series with the 1A controller. I have lots of light, front and rear.

I have used strings of GE LED christmas lights rewired for 12 VDC. (you count off 8 bulbs, then put them in series with about 150ohms give or take -- reuse the existing wires for your positive and ground, you can put more bulbs in series if you have higher voltage). They use about a Watt for a string of 50 or so.

I use electroluminescent wire and a driver and wrap it around my frame (from http://www.coolneon.com among other places). expensive, but I get a lot of positive feedback.

I am thinking to get a cold cathode kit and make a lighted slow moving vehicle sign for my own trailer. You can get these kits where computer stuff is sold (try newegg.com and look for cold cathode). The drivers run on 12VDC.

my bike and trailer:
 

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jjggbb, you got some mad scientist type stuff goin' on there...cool! I too like that light around the frame..neat effect.

I had thought about strings of xmas lights. I can run them off the inverter so I don't have to modify anything...that's a plus.
 
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