ignition not powering 72v Alibaba e-quad

[raoulknievel]

Hi new member here I purchased a 72v lithium e-quad off Alibaba last year, and I've only had time to drive it a few times so far and it was running just fine for me those couple of times (actually pleasantly surprised tons of torque!), but my wife took it for a loop on our property the other week for just a few minutes and it died on her, power cut out as if needed recharging (I hadn't recharged it yet after picking it up from US customs at my local Port). So I plugged in the 110v trickle charger it came with, but the dash lights still weren't coming with key in ignition. So I assumed it wasn't charging for some reason, so today I took the batteries cover off and volt metered them and to my surprise each of the 6 Li batts were at full charge 12v, so now I'm thinking the issue must be with this red cable from the bank to this 'on/off' power switch (the seller told me I need to flick the switch on the bottom circled in yellow from off to on, then put the key in ignition and will power up, and that worked the few times I rode it so far) - anyone here have any idea how I test this pwr on/off switch to make it work again? My guess is when my wife was riding it offroad the few minutes she rode it she hit a big enough bump or something to jar something in this pwr switch loose so it's not making a full connection anymore to power the ignition and dash controls? Thanks in advance for help

 

[amberwolf]

FWIW, 12v on a 12v battery is at best half full. Normally that type of battery would be about 13.6v full for the SLA version, and the lithium ones should operate around the same voltage range for compatiblity (10-11v completely empty, 12v about half full, 13-14v full).

If yours are marked differently on their labelling, indicating that 12v is their full state, then don't worry about it. Otherwise, it doesn't sound like they're charging up.

Normally a "72v" lithium pack would be about half full at 72v, and about 88v when full (depends on the specific chemistry and number of series cells inside the batteries making up the total pack).


Regarding the switch, that's a circuit breaker. Since it's in a clear housing, you can actually see if the contacts are touching or not, as you toggle it off and on. But another test is to measure the voltage across the switch, from the in wire to the out wire. It should be 0.00v when on, and full system voltage when off.


BTW, if it only comes with a trickle charger (which usually only supply a few to a few dozen mA), you will need to buy a normal charger for it for typical charging purposes, or it could take days (or weeks) to fully charge from empty. To buy the right charger you must know what the actual full voltage of the pack should be (full voltage of the batteries x the number in series), and what the charging current limit of the batteries is, since exceeding either of those can damage the batteries (or even cause a fire). If those are not marked on the batteries, you'd have to find out from the vehicle seller (who may or may not have any idea what's actually installed on it, since they don't usually make them, just sell them).


A link to the page you purchased the quad from may help us help you as it may have detailed info about the parts built into the quad (probably not, but a few such pages do have useful and even accurate info).

 

[fill]

Sounds like A GOOD charge up to full capacity is needed..

Some wider view pics including things like battery and charger labels and controller labels would help tho, in addition to any links to the vehicle..
My initial reaction to reading 12v charge and seeing the battery pic is you have old world lead acid batteries or at best a bank of lipo ICE motorbike batteries. fingers crossed for the latter but the embossed lettering in the pic is pretty oblique to me..

if reading 12v without a load the initial connection and capacitor charge up when you turn on the quad may ?? result in a voltage drop below the trigger level for low voltage thus stopping the full power up??

AS said above your 'trickle charger' should have an output in amps not miliamps, If its not in amps and at least 4 or 5A preferably more, you should indeed source a more suitable device. but if a ICE battery trickle charger? wtf?

But start with a full battery, if you still have issues, chances are its a loose connection thats finally worked open and just needs pushing back in place. if 'waterproof' plugs/sockets are used they can take some force and effort to fully engage.

 

[raoulknievel]

Thank you Amberwolf & fill! Ok that does make sense that Li 12v full capacity should be more like 13.6v fully charged, so I'll go back and connect this new Li pos/neg clamps charger I bought on Amazon a few weeks ago, I also have some CALB LiFePO4 180ah batteries for another project I used to charge via only solar, but I moved from CA to Oregon last summer and once Fall came OR wasn't providing enough solar (lots more cloudy & rainy days) so I had to resort to buying this external charger which did the trick = recharged up my 12v bank to 'full' at 13.2v (they don't get any more charged than 13.2v full), so I'll connect its pos/neg clamps to quad's bank exit two pos/neg posts & that should charge that bank up full Yes that clear 'circuit breaker' makes more sense, it is making good contacts when bottom switch flicked on/off, like I said it's practically brand new I've only rode it a few times so that circuit breaker shouldn't malfunction yet? Here's the quad I bought (minus the big back storage box and front spot lights) it's a awesome e-quad! I'm a big guy over 200 lbs and as I said it has so much torque it nearly threw me off the first time I rode it, but it was advertised as having a range of approx 30 min per charge, but I've only rode it about 5 minutes so far, so the range may be an issue maybe it wasn't fully charged after shipping hopefully it gets better range once I top it off I bought it to use in lieu of a tractor use it to cut wild grass, I bought a 2" hitch attachment for it and a grass cut grate thing to pull behind it, we have a few acres but I need to cut back the tall grass in the summer it can be a fire hazard, but the cheapest used tractors are approx. $10k and if they break-down thousand$ in maintenance, vs this with shipping and customs was under $4k and it shouldn't have any maintenance issues with so few moving mechanical parts Thanks again I'll followup after I try the re-charge hopefully it works

 

[marvin78]

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005777219931.html#nav-specification

That's the only one I could find, item no longer available but it is the same quad and the page has some information, like confirmation these are lead acid batteries according to the add.

MMC

ATV-E019

1. Motor: 72V 1800w 2000w 2200w 3000W

2. Battery: 60V 72V 20AH lead-acid battery

3. Shift mode: forward, backward, one-key electronic switch conversion

4 Rotation mode: differential motor shaft drive

5. Braking system: front and rear hydraulic disc brakes

6, shock absorption system: front and rear airbag shock absorption

7. Tire size: front/rear 23X7-10 22X10-10

8. Cruising range: 45KH high, medium and low speed three-speed adjustment

9. Discharge time: 3 hours

10 Seat height: 8500mm Wheel base: 13600 mm

11 Chassis height: 250mm

12 Maximum speed: 60km/h Maximum load: 250kg

13 Gross weight: 235KG Net weight: 230KG

14 Product size: 2100X1100X1130

15 Packing size: 1720x1100x1180mm

16 Packing Quantity: Qty/20Fcl: 60pcs Qty/40HQ: 120pcs

edit: just for clarity... I wouldn't connect a lithium charger to lead acid batteries, that doesn't sound very healthy.

edit2: product page of manufacturer -> [Hot Item] Sport Hunting Outdoors New Shaft Driving 5000W Farm Quad Bike Cruiser Electric ATV

This does mention there are both lithium and lead acid options. The other add specified to contact seller before placing order, so to be sure to configure it as you want. So out of the factory, this could be anything.

 

[raoulknievel]

marvin78, when I ordered mine I specially paid extra to upgrade to "Li" batt bank not their less expensive Lead-acid the seller offered, so mine should be Li.. but I'll check the QR code on top of each battery & see what info it gives before I hook up charger

 

[marvin78]

Thanks, I did some further digging and manufacturer indeed lists multiple options. ( manufacturer product page is added to my reply above just now ).

Reason I posted it was because others asked you for a link to the add and you hadn't given one yet. Just want you to be safe and prevent unnecessary additional damage/costs.

Btw, since this is listed as 72v system, and you're measuring 12 on a single, six in series should be well above controller low voltage cutout?

Anyway, maybe try contacting Shandong directly, ask for a service manual or something. Chances are low, but you never know.

Good luck!

 

[raoulknievel]

marvin78, thanks ya I did a quick search to find my Alibaba listing to share but no luck, it appears longgone already, which I'm not surprised that's why I pulled the trigger when I did, my (albeit limited) experience with alibaba is #1: it's super untrustworthy seems like at least more than half the sellers are fakes/ frauds, and 2. seems like listings come and go daily so if you're really interested in something you need to jump on it. In may case my seller appeared to have some legit positive reviews at the time so I rolled the dice and got 'lucky' it actually arrived.. although they advertised it would ship "within two weeks" it didn't end up shipping for two months and very sketchy the only way to pay was wire them the $2500 total (included freight) to some random bank I had never heard of located in New York with zero guarantees I'd receive it, so Big roll of the dice! But as I said a e-quad like this should last for years with so few mechanical moving parts like ICE quads, so I definitely don't plan to repeat this experience again in my lifetime! And hopefully my Alibaba buying days are over it's just too sketchy

 

[marvin78]

Shangdong MMC isn't sketchy though.. well maybe if you consider their golfcarts showing up in Ukraine.. but they are a real manufacturer with actual products. Ali /baba/express take your pick, are marketplaces not shops. Just as Amazon, the sellers are third parties. I been burned through Ali, but I know I am the one to blame for buying from an unknown shop/seller with 'to good to be true' products. I've had nothing but positive experiences outside of that, but I am sticking with shops which been around for a long time and who have a lot of feedback I can go through.

As I said, you could try contacting one of their representatives through the webpage I listed above, explain you bought this from a seller who you can no longer contact and ask if they are willing to offer support ( not warranty, support! ). From my albeit limited knowledge, you will find actual manufacturers often quite willing to work to offer support. Much more then they would if you started with asking for warranty. They must have a service manual available for their own repair centers, they might give you one or they might put you into contact with someone from one of their repair centers themselves.

How I see it, you got a product with a manufacturer which is actually proud of it and who would want it's users to give good word of mouth to the people around them. And not only that, this isn't some small local company, they are a conglomerate big enough to certainly have people who would be fluent in English. The product page has a contact option.

 

[fechter]

From the picture, the batteries look like lead-acid, but hard to tell for sure.

 

[offGridDownUnder]

ignition

Oh, boy, do I hope your Lithium battery vehicle does not ignite. Especially with you sitting on it.

Ignition is not a part of it - you aren't burning fuel. 'Start', 'stop', 'go', 'on', 'off'. But not 'ignite'.

 

[fill]

Hey @raoulknievel I cant say i agree with your high risk shopping strategy but spilt milt etc..
Dont trust the battery QR code. I would crack at least one open to determine myself considering your buying story. tho a shake or peer through aided by a strong light may be all thats needed.. but even if it 'thonks' instead of 'splashing' I would want to both qualify the cells and bms..

+1 for contacting the manufacturer, keep in mind the initial recipient is probably not an english speaker so keep it polite with short simple slang free sentences so it comes out of translation s/w clearly..

If you include '.pdf' in your manual searches google should list the page count of relevant links so you can discount the 1 page intro docs quickly.

with enough voltage to power up 'Cheers @marvin78 ' you could follow further along fault finding..
#1- Fuses? there should be at least 1 fuse somewhere between the battery and bike? find and check..
#2 confirm current battery total voltage.
#3 start tracing back along the battery wires to the 1st plug in connection and test the voltage is good and the connections are solid.. some waterproof plug/sockets if used can take some force to push fully home, they should have a 'home' indicating line.

when turned on power should be available to the display and sensors that require power at a 5v? logic level that should show up on any 3 wire sensor plug thats accessible to test

 

[marvin78]

+1 for contacting the manufacturer, keep in mind the initial recipient is probably not an english speaker so keep it polite with short simple slang free sentences so it comes out of translation s/w clearly..

*I was trying to get a service manual just based on my sob story, I fully understand they want purchase details though.

If OP uses the contact information option on the page I listed, and provide them with his purchase information I am sure he will be able to get the support he needs.

I mean, I might even be wrong with my reverse image search ( I don't think I am, this is an exact match and the only company associated with it ). But it's fully understandable that they would need the purchase information if only to know what model/revision/configuration ect.