This is a thread about modifications on the very popular MXUS 3000 V2 motors.
I have 4T and 3T motor. On both the phase wires are to small in relation to the cross section of the widings so it makes sense to upgrade them. The covers are not sealed up well so water can get easy into the motor - its very important.
On 3T i will install custom axle (made from Linas), 8mm² phase wires, inside air cooling (with blower wheel from 140mm fan and Al heatshrinks), but more about this the next days / weeks.
first the improvements i did on the 4T:
out of the package:
the hall sensor in the middle had been glued 3mm below the surface so i pulled it out and glued it to the place where it belongs:
stock wire vs. 4mm² "PTFE" wire.
it has 3,3mm in diamter which is only a little bit more like the 13AWG stock wire.
i put the 3 phase wires together (like a triangle) and in every gap i placed 2 from the 6 wires going to the halls and thermistor. this will keep the overall diameter of the bunch of cables small so more room is left for shrink tube for protection.
soldering wires to the winding. i like to wrap them together with small copper wire before. lots of silicone at the outlet and inside the axle to keep water out.
for 135mm dropouts and when only using single speed sprocket (or maybe 2 or 3-speed cassete) there exists the possibility to extend the 10 to 10mm flat part on area with 16,8mm diamater. this will reduce stress on both the axle and dropouts. i made it about 6mm long. with one wide and one thin washer on wire side it will result in about 135mm overall wideness. the washer(s) ANYWAY are needed so the wire can exit in a nice curve out of the axle (otherwise it could chafe against the sealing ring). when doing so, the spoke flange is about 2-3mm off the center near chain side so little rim dishing is necessary (no need to worry about).
I have 4T and 3T motor. On both the phase wires are to small in relation to the cross section of the widings so it makes sense to upgrade them. The covers are not sealed up well so water can get easy into the motor - its very important.
On 3T i will install custom axle (made from Linas), 8mm² phase wires, inside air cooling (with blower wheel from 140mm fan and Al heatshrinks), but more about this the next days / weeks.
first the improvements i did on the 4T:
out of the package:
the hall sensor in the middle had been glued 3mm below the surface so i pulled it out and glued it to the place where it belongs:
stock wire vs. 4mm² "PTFE" wire.
it has 3,3mm in diamter which is only a little bit more like the 13AWG stock wire.
i put the 3 phase wires together (like a triangle) and in every gap i placed 2 from the 6 wires going to the halls and thermistor. this will keep the overall diameter of the bunch of cables small so more room is left for shrink tube for protection.
soldering wires to the winding. i like to wrap them together with small copper wire before. lots of silicone at the outlet and inside the axle to keep water out.
for 135mm dropouts and when only using single speed sprocket (or maybe 2 or 3-speed cassete) there exists the possibility to extend the 10 to 10mm flat part on area with 16,8mm diamater. this will reduce stress on both the axle and dropouts. i made it about 6mm long. with one wide and one thin washer on wire side it will result in about 135mm overall wideness. the washer(s) ANYWAY are needed so the wire can exit in a nice curve out of the axle (otherwise it could chafe against the sealing ring). when doing so, the spoke flange is about 2-3mm off the center near chain side so little rim dishing is necessary (no need to worry about).