Infineon XC846 72V 45 Amp Controller

That's exactly what I did... but I did it on purpose ;) and then tried to rebuild the circuit using what parts I could find in a toasted charger. works, and the voltage that the MCU is seeing is about .5v or so but I'm not exactly sure. I know my meter ready low by .6 volts at around 13.5, when my SLAs are full... and yeah, I'm forced to use that crap as of right now.. 230 Lbs worth of it! argh! Bike would be SOOO fast without all that! I'd give my right leg for 72v ( 96v? ) and 40ah of LiFeP04 at price I could afford.. because then I wouldn't need that leg so much anymore :D Then again I've heard that they can't pump out 50+ amps steady and live very long... Truth or scare tactic?

Oh, and yep. I managed to glob solder all over that capacitor when I was in there 8) Cool huh!??! was just amazed it didn't explode and allowed me to clean it up and then put it back down!

Working nights then days, then nights right now so opening the controller back up is going to take a day or two but I'm trying hard to stay off of it till it's safe. I like some seafood blackened.. not my electronics!

Steve
 
sbartasek said:
I'd give my right leg for 72v ( 96v? ) and 40ah of LiFeP04 at price I could afford.. because then I wouldn't need that leg so much anymore :D Then again I've heard that they can't pump out 50+ amps steady and live very long... Truth or scare tactic?
Click to expand...

If you've got 40Ah, most LiFePO4 packs should put out 50A continuously no problem, that's only a little over 1C.

These guys have the best prices I've seen:
http://www.evcomponents.com
EDITED: Don't buy from these guys -- all the good people have left, and I hear they're ripping people off now.

72v 40Ah of Thundersky LiFePO4 (80-120A): $1056 (+ BMS and charger), about 80 pounds
72v 40Ah of Headway LiFePO4 (160-200A+): $1632 (+ BMS and charger), about 65 pounds

PM Frodus if you have any questions, he started working with these guys recently.

I'd probably go for this BMS:
http://www.rechargeablelithiumpower...d-p-52.html?osCsid=r1mos9ruvals849tiieq81ro93
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=10758&hilit=goodrum+BMS

You could buy the kit and build it yourself, but the parts add up to not much less than what Andy's charging for the fully assembled and tested boards. http://www.tppacks.com/products.asp?cat=26
 
In other places I've seen the Sky Energy are about the same price as the Thundersky but I think they're pretty new. I've heard of people getting positive results with Thundersky LiFePO4 but none of them needed more than about 2C. Personally I'd wait until after hearing about some independent testing with the Sky Energy before investing in their product. But they probably will drop the prices some just to get some sales and name recognition in the marketplace. Anyone heard about a successful Sky Energy EV project?
 
on one chinese blog another controller using infineon chip ( not xie cheng) uses r48 to engage self learn mode,
I check a 12fet infineon and r48 does have an empty pad , looks like you just connect r48 and r49 to engage self learn mode, I'm a bit scared to try it, as the chinese blog doesn't actually say how to use r48 to engage self learn mode, I posted the blog info some time back, but if of interest will post the relevant section again. But i'm quite sure r48 is involved in going into self learn mode. SL just speed limiter pin not related
 
solarbbq2003 said:
on one chinese blog another controller using infineon chip ( not xie cheng) uses r48 to engage self learn mode,
I check a 12fet infineon and r48 does have an empty pad , looks like you just connect r48 and r49 to engage self learn mode, I'm a bit scared to try it, as the chinese blog doesn't actually say how to use r48 to engage self learn mode, I posted the blog info some time back, but if of interest will post the relevant section again. But i'm quite sure r48 is involved in going into self learn mode. SL just speed limiter pin not related
Click to expand...
hi
I said this before and i will say it once more the SL pad is just the input to a pin on the infineon chip, on most controllers that we have come across they have been programed so that on the pin going low(0V) then the speed limit option is invoked. on a few controllers and I have one so I know it to be fact the speed limit option has been made unavalible in favor of a programmable hall and phase setting activated by grounding that same pad that would of given a speed limit in the other controllers.

maybe this is clearer for you and befor you ask the boards look identical.

Geoff
 
HI Geoff
understand, SL pin does seem to invoke speed limit function on the xie cheng 12 fet boards I have ( was matching to some motors the night and speed seemed much slower when SL was grounded) going by another maker using same chip, pin 16 ( from memory) is connected to r48, that maker ( although a bit confusing in the translation) is suggesting pin 16 is relating to self learn via r48 ( 5v normal mode, 0v self learn mode), 12 fet board has a pad where it looks like r48 and r49 can be connected, I suspect that will put the controller into self learn mode, but i'm a bit worried to try it just in case thats not what they pad if for, but there is definitely a pad there for some specific function, my hunch is its the self learn pad. Trying to get more info on it, but will give it a try at some stage. Pretty sure r48/r49 will give self learn mode, just whether r48 goes to gnd, or to r49, or some other connection needed, might have some answers soon if lucky.
 
Brett please advise when you will be sending out my P4 kit. You have had the motors since March; others received their P4 kits a couple of months ago - why am I still waiting? Please have the decency to respond to my emails.
 
is this thread still alive? i just bought one of these controllers from nicobie and i'm having trouble getting the CA to work with it.

the speedometer/odometer are off. it goes up to 20 mph fine, very accurate compared to my bike speedometer, but as soon as i accelerate over 20mph, it starts going down, and by the time i'm at 30mph, the speedometer reads zero. :(

i modified the wheel size and poles. justin le told me the gm kits have 23 poles, and that the CA only goes up to 14, so that i should set it to 14 and THEN modify the wheel size to 14/23 (of say 26"). this alteration worked fine with a noname 72V 30A controller (which unfortunately fried at 80A). however, with THAT setting 14/23 the wheel size, the CA speed read 99mph at 20mph! so i lowered the wheel size down again by a third!

anyone have any ideas?

fyi, i've set the Rshunt to 3.122 which nicobie said was pretty accurate, and so far so good, although i rarely push 30A, though that could be an issue w/ an old lipo i have in series.

thanks,

greg
 
Hello,

I have a question in regards to this controller. I recently installed it and everything is fine except the blue speed sensor wire doesn't seem to work. I have it installed on an XB-600 x-treme scooter. The bike has a speedometer built into the dash that was wired to a white wire coming from the stock controller. I replaced that with the blue wire but now the speeedometer doesn't work. Always reads zero. Does anyone know if this wire will work with a analog type speedometer? I have read that many are using it with a CA bike computer. Will it only work with that?

I was also wondering on the 5v brake wires from the controller. (Yellow and Black Wires) What actually happens to the motor when those wires are used? Does it just kill power going to the motor from the controller or does it somehow stop the motor by applying some kind of brake inside the motor?

Thank you.
 
Hey,

I'm created a new thread about this here.

I moved my blue wire to one of the halls, but to my understanding, there are many more cycles (depending on motors, etc) than wheel RPM's, so the quick fix is to connect the CA or in your case speedometer to a magnet on a wheel...

ps. i'm still stuck deciding (partly cause i haven't had the time) whether to mod the CA, or doing the quick fix... seems to a problem though..
 
Is it possible that fet's,Caps in the controller can go bad and cause the bike to go slower but still run fine? My bike had been doing 29mph but now it won't get over 26mph on a full charge. The controller is brand new and the motor is less than two months old. My batteries are brand new as well. I have noticed that I can't charge over 80.6 volts with 6 sla batteries. I thought it was higher before when I charged. Not sure what would cause this. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
 
nogas4me said:
Is it possible that fet's,Caps in the controller can go bad and cause the bike to go slower but still run fine? My bike had been doing 29mph but now it won't get over 26mph on a full charge. The controller is brand new and the motor is less than two months old. My batteries are brand new as well. I have noticed that I can't charge over 80.6 volts with 6 sla batteries. I thought it was higher before when I charged. Not sure what would cause this. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
Click to expand...
Your voltage of you batteries will be what holds you top speed back so it the fully charged voltage is less than it used to be It will have a lower top speed as well.
 
Arlo1 said:
Your voltage of you batteries will be what holds you top speed back so it the fully charged voltage is less than it used to be It will have a lower top speed as well.
Click to expand...

Thank you, It has been colder here lately and I guess that is why my battery pack isn't charging as high.
 
dnmun said:
get a voltmeter and measure them. you can buy a digital voltmeter at harbor freight for $3 on special. use it.
Click to expand...

I did measure them and I have a voltmeter. Thats how I knew they where charging at a lower voltage than normal. Thanks for the help. :?
 
83.8 is what my charger is set to charger up to but the voltage I gave you was after the batteries had settled. It was not a hot charge measurement. MY batteries settle to around 13.5 volts after about an hour.
 
Hey guys, i have a couple of the latest crystalyte 72v 48a (18 x 4110) controllers which appear to be the infineon boards. these were sent to me for repair. I expect i might find the answers to these questions by reading 2 years of the thread, but maybe somebody can help me save some time.

1) how can i lower the lvc from the 57v setting of these controllers?

2) the throttle on one unit is connected to the SP pad on the pcb. the other unit has it connected to pad TA. these two controllers were built a few months apart, so the configuration might be different, and the second one (throttle to TA) does not work at all.

i noticed that the unit uses a common 5v supply for the motor hall sensors, throttle, and ebrake sensors. i tested the 5v output and found that if i loaded it to 25 ma. (max current spec for the 5 hall sensors) that the voltage dropped to about 4.3v, which is below the minimum operating voltage of some hall sensors. i wonder if this has caused problems for anyone?

thanks for any help finding this info.
 
Hi
Bob those are what methods modifys and sells on as his 100v 100a controllers.
The thread for that will help to start.
the throttle on one controller is connected to pad SP this is standard the other is connected to pad TA that is not a throttle pad it is for pedelec, this controller has been set to be a pedelec controller only, DON'T worry it is easy to convert to a throttle controller just find the SP pad and connect to that with a standard hall throttle.

the voltage of the 5v bus should be no problem.

to lower the lvc of the controller you will need to re-program the controller with free software out there, you probably will need to do the low voltage trick that methods does on the controllers on page 1 of the thread I think by bypasses one of the power resistors but I am not sure.
i have found the mod here is the link http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13638&start=0#p202363 you want the 100v/50v switch mod.
look through the rest it will give you a lot of ideas.

Geoff
 
thanks a lot, geoff. these are the first units of this type i have seen; my friend bought them direct from kenny in china. other crystalyte units have used a fiber washer and snippet of insulated sleeve on fake ir transistors; these use ceramic bushings on the genuine 4110's. it looks like a good unit but also looks like if it fails it will be difficult to repair. past crystalyte units have not worked properly with the puma motors; i will see if this newer unit does.
 
bobmcree said:
thanks a lot, geoff. these are the first units of this type i have seen; my friend bought them direct from kenny in china. other crystalyte units have used a fiber washer and snippet of insulated sleeve on fake ir transistors; these use ceramic bushings on the genuine 4110's. it looks like a good unit but also looks like if it fails it will be difficult to repair. past crystalyte units have not worked properly with the puma motors; i will see if this newer unit does.
Click to expand...
Hi
i don't know what the previous crystalyte controllers were based on but these are an infineon 116 18 fet controller in a crystalyte case in a way the best of both worlds the infineon116 18 fet controller has proved to be a very good board, versatile and cheap and crystalyte have a good track record in building quality controllers.
Anyway I can tell you now if the Puma is from Team Hybrid who started doing the pumas then it will work I know I have tested it already and it works color to color.

Geoff
 
Hi guys!

Can someone help me with this controller, how do i make it reverse the direction of the motor?
 
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