ebent
10 kW
I think it is attached to the wrong tube and I think there may be a better way to attach it. I especially would like to see an installation on an HP Scorpion fs26. However any advice is welcome.
Thanks,
Harvey
Installation of a torque arm
- Thread starter ebent
- Start date
I think it is attached to the wrong tube and I think there may be a better way to attach it. I especially would like to see an installation on an HP Scorpion fs26. However any advice is welcome.
Thanks,
Harvey
Can you reverse the torque arm so it points to 1 o'clock instead? That's how the Grin Tech torque arm info page at ebikes.ca shows it.
ebent
10 kW
I do not remember why but I remember trying that but it wouldn't line up. I think there are motorized trikes same as mine and maybe a picture will show up.
Triketech has a couple pictures below. Might not be the same as your torque arm kit but close. Will require a little work.
Re: Offsetting the MAC Axle by Triketech https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=70997#p1077199
Also Diamondback has a Scorpion FS with your torque arm kit here. No pictures of how it's mounted though.
Re: Offsetting the MAC Axle by Triketech https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=70997#p1077199
Also Diamondback has a Scorpion FS with your torque arm kit here. No pictures of how it's mounted though.
dogman dan
1 PW
I see no major problem with how you just did it. The other way is more optimal, if it fits. If it doesn't fit that way, then the optimal way is the way it fits good.
Looks like a pretty big motor though, got one on the other side? It might fit facing up on the other side. To clear the rack stay, stack washers and longer bolt.
Looks like a pretty big motor though, got one on the other side? It might fit facing up on the other side. To clear the rack stay, stack washers and longer bolt.
motomech
10 MW
That looks right to me.
The motor torque is pushing the TA against the bottom of the chain-stay tube.
I would get some flat washers on that pivot bolt, or better yet, tack weld it.
What does the one on the other side look like?
The motor torque is pushing the TA against the bottom of the chain-stay tube.
I would get some flat washers on that pivot bolt, or better yet, tack weld it.
What does the one on the other side look like?
ebent
10 kW
I don't have a torque arm on the other side. But you give me a little comfort with your opinion that it is acceptable. Is one enough?
Thanks
Harvey
Thanks
Harvey
dogman dan
1 PW
I tend to like two, for anything over 1000w. Unless it's a pinching torque plate, or bolted directly to the axle.
You do have two beautiful disc mount holes there, for a home made torque plate to bolt right to that.
You do have two beautiful disc mount holes there, for a home made torque plate to bolt right to that.
ebent
10 kW
Dogman, I see the holes but I don't work in metal. My medium is wood. I can meet any task with wood. But wood is wrong here. If I can see an HP Scorpion 26fs with a good installation in a picture that would help. But from previous comments on this thread I feel I have time to be patient.
Thanks
Thanks
The torque plate for attaching to disc mount holes that dogman mentioned can be seen in Triketech's photos linked above. It's just a rectangular piece of metal, like a hasp, with 3 holes drilled in it.
Your HP Scorpion has an aluminum frame with a Crystalyte motor. The way you have your torque arm now, if the hose clamps crack, the motor rotation will pull the motor down out of the dropouts. That's unlikely to happen and it's not urgent but if you want to do it better, do it like Triketech. And put a torque arm on the right side.
Your HP Scorpion has an aluminum frame with a Crystalyte motor. The way you have your torque arm now, if the hose clamps crack, the motor rotation will pull the motor down out of the dropouts. That's unlikely to happen and it's not urgent but if you want to do it better, do it like Triketech. And put a torque arm on the right side.
ebent
10 kW
mark5, the pictures from the link provided is not an adequate angle to see it.
Yes, there's no full-on picture. But taking his first photo, imagine a 4.5" or so x 1" piece of flat aluminum put between the frame's disc mounting holes and the torque arm. I don't know why his is on the inside of the frame towards the wheel in the second photo but that ought to work. I searched both here and on the Internet and that's all I came up with.
ebent
10 kW
Thanks for the effort Mark. Fortunately I'm not backed into a corner and forced to envision what you are saying. I really need to see a picture. This trike was designed to have a hub motor and those sold in Germany of this model are frequently motorized with a hub. I think the answer will come.
dogman dan
1 PW
Made for a hub motor? Odd they did not make the dropout plate bigger for a good torque plate.
Is that steel? if so, perhaps they just thought the dropouts were strong enough as is. If it's steel, then one torque arm, exactly how you have it, should be adequate enough, provided you aren't using regen.
If you want to modify your grin ta to bolt to both of the disc mount holes, all you need is some flat steel bar and a drill, some bolts and a few washers to stack up to take up some space between the disc mount holes and the flat bar.
Is that steel? if so, perhaps they just thought the dropouts were strong enough as is. If it's steel, then one torque arm, exactly how you have it, should be adequate enough, provided you aren't using regen.
If you want to modify your grin ta to bolt to both of the disc mount holes, all you need is some flat steel bar and a drill, some bolts and a few washers to stack up to take up some space between the disc mount holes and the flat bar.
ebent
10 kW
Frame is high grade aluminum...
ebent
10 kW
I called Utah trikes. They motorize trikes including an FS26. Their mechanic said he uses the Falco torque arm. Requires no modifications. On order. I'll comment after I try to install it...
Thanks for the comments.
Harvey
Thanks for the comments.
Harvey
ebent
10 kW
Is this better? It is a Falco torque arm. The axle hole was a bit too small. A bastard file got it to fit. This effort has a dividend. Both axle nuts were loose. Firm but not tight. 2 of the 3 bolts on the left go through 2 welded on pieces with accommodating holes.Looks much better.
Mine is just a piece of 1" x 1/4" thick aluminum about 4" long with 3 holes drilled. At some point I'll sculpt a few of them on a mill just hasn't been a priority yet.
Was planning on stripping off the hub and retrofitting the Dual Drive next week to begin training for Tour de Tucson, but I'll postpone that a week or two to test the BAC500 Sine Wave Drive from Grin.
I'v got some ideas on battery layouts with mounting systems specifically for a handful of the more common higher end trikes; mostly Catrike, ICE & HPV. Its something to play with between product design contracts anyway.
Mine is just a piece of 1" x 1/4" thick aluminum about 4" long with 3 holes drilled. At some point I'll sculpt a few of them on a mill just hasn't been a priority yet.
Was planning on stripping off the hub and retrofitting the Dual Drive next week to begin training for Tour de Tucson, but I'll postpone that a week or two to test the BAC500 Sine Wave Drive from Grin.
I'v got some ideas on battery layouts with mounting systems specifically for a handful of the more common higher end trikes; mostly Catrike, ICE & HPV. Its something to play with between product design contracts anyway.
Recently installed a Dillenger 350 front hub motor on an old RockShox fork. After about 12km the back side of the
dropouts broke off. I assume I need to put a torque arm on? I've ordered a new RockShox XC30 TK and don't want to
break it. This happened when coming to a stop so was not hurt. Any comments or suggestions. All these forks seem to
have magnesium dropouts.
dropouts broke off. I assume I need to put a torque arm on? I've ordered a new RockShox XC30 TK and don't want to
break it. This happened when coming to a stop so was not hurt. Any comments or suggestions. All these forks seem to
have magnesium dropouts.
Attachments
dogman dan
1 PW
YES you want to put two torque arms on any alloy front fork. But the real reason your fork cracked might have been lack of two c washers.
So get both! Without the c washer to fill that little cup on the fork, it's easy for alloy forks to crack just from tightening the bolt. Then with two micro cracked dropouts, it sure doesn't take much to finish it off.
Grin Technology the best place to get both TA's and the c washers, for a good solid alloy fork install.
http://www.ebikes.ca/
Grins front TA is the best fit for a fatter shock fork that I have seen.
Why two for front, when one can be enough in back on an alloy frame? Because a face plant hurts so much more!
So get both! Without the c washer to fill that little cup on the fork, it's easy for alloy forks to crack just from tightening the bolt. Then with two micro cracked dropouts, it sure doesn't take much to finish it off.
Grin Technology the best place to get both TA's and the c washers, for a good solid alloy fork install.
http://www.ebikes.ca/
Grins front TA is the best fit for a fatter shock fork that I have seen.
Why two for front, when one can be enough in back on an alloy frame? Because a face plant hurts so much more!
dogman dan
1 PW
Back to the other rear TA. That Falco TA looks superb. Attaches to both of the disc mounts. Beauty. I particularly like it that you had to file it to fit. IMO, should always be that way, or at least a very snug fit.
The other one every bit as good too! IMO, that second piece does not need to be steel if thick enough. Easy to make with very simple tools. Stick with steel though, if it does not bolt to the frame.
The other one every bit as good too! IMO, that second piece does not need to be steel if thick enough. Easy to make with very simple tools. Stick with steel though, if it does not bolt to the frame.
ebent
10 kW
Without this forum and the good people on it for the TA and many other issues ES is there. What a great resource! Thank you all!
I installed it last night. Like dogman and those of us that live in hot climates my best time to ride is very early AM. All prepared and ready to go and I got a flat. Naturally no patch kit or tube. So no chance to test my new torque arm. But I'm ready for tonight or tomorrow morning. Removing a front wheel from my HP Scorpion was too easy. They drop out. Making it easy to work around the disk brakes.
Triketech, I like the plate you made. It was described but I needed the picture. Thanks.
Thanks for the confirmation. That adds to my peace of mind.
I installed it last night. Like dogman and those of us that live in hot climates my best time to ride is very early AM. All prepared and ready to go and I got a flat. Naturally no patch kit or tube. So no chance to test my new torque arm. But I'm ready for tonight or tomorrow morning. Removing a front wheel from my HP Scorpion was too easy. They drop out. Making it easy to work around the disk brakes.
Triketech, I like the plate you made. It was described but I needed the picture. Thanks.
Thanks for the confirmation. That adds to my peace of mind.
spinningmagnets
100 TW
tdmmodels, you need two C-washers and two torque arms. Can I use that picture of the broken drop-outs in an article?
