Hill Climbing Assistance

I think this question is unanswerable - there's a hesitation sentiment in doing so, I believe, mainly related to concerns about the abrupt failure mode of the material. But who knows how your fork is engineered for increased stresses, what with the low rider mounts and the like.

Just my layman's take on it.
That’s a good question. If it can handle a front rack with a load is that different than the force of a front e-hub?
 
Upfront costs for a hub drive setup can be higher lately, however the long term maintenance cost is going to be low due to the simplicity. Pains in the ass on the side of the road will be greatly reduced. Also, unlike a mid drive, you are not going to be eating chains and drivetrain parts. Friction drive may consume tires and rollers.

What you're looking for specifically is very low weight, which makes your entry into a hub drive more expensive because you must select specialized components.

Like right now if you had loose requirements then you could have bought a 6.5lbs geared hub motor kit for $200 shipped in the USA, then bought one of these cheap batteries & had a good time for $400 all in.

Unfortunately there are only a couple very light, lowish power addon mid drives that would be suitable for the use case you want.
And the bikeOn, as well
 
bikeOn looks awesome, i think it would fit OP's wants really well ( easily removable ), too bad it's out of our theoretical budget.

Really hoping they get the price down next bike season. I kinda want one.
 
bikeOn looks awesome, i think it would fit OP's wants really well ( easily removable ), too bad it's out of our theoretical budget.

Really hoping they get the price down next bike season. I kinda want one.
Yikes. Super expensive, but interesting.
 
How do I avoid this?

Is there a special cover, box, or bag for batteries?
When charging - yes, such as in ammo boxes or fire-resistant enclosures, and/or at "away" locations. While riding, not that I recall.

Using only known/proven cell suppliers & manufacturers, combined with time-tested construction practices hopefully reduces pack fire risk. Proper handling, charging, and luck too.

An iceberg e-bike topic, if there ever was one.
 
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From what I've read of meta's posts I think he would be most happy with one of these:
Turbo Vado SL 5.0 EQ
Maybe not this model, but the Specialized e-bikes have been selling at deep discounts due to the inventory glut. I see the turbo como (lower end, $3400 msrp) for $1900 and change. Smaller motor, but still 70Nm.
 
My next build will likely be with the Q100H, which is under 3 lb and is the size of a drum brake. Drawing less than 400W means less battery and smaller controller, saving weight.
The Q100H is closer to 5lb than 3 lbs. The Q100C is narrower and may get under 4 lbs. Never used the cassette version,
P1520030.jpg
I have several builds with them. Laced them all myself. All spoke ends must point out for a 20" wheel 1x cross. They used to cost 80 bucks plus 45 shipping. Now total price is closer to 180-200 dollars. I know some owners like the 201 rpm version in bigger wheels, I haven't heard about results with the lighter Q75.

They freewheel pretty good, but my 20" bikes w/o front derailleur don't have enough gearing to pedal well in my opinion, so the few times I had to run w/o power, it was hard work. On a bigger wheel, and with 21 speeds, it should be OK.
 
When charging - yes, such as in ammo boxes or fire-resistant enclosures, and/or at "away" locations. While riding, not that I recall.

It is smoke that is the main killer, not fire. Smoke is toxic and flammable, so I don't think ammo box will help a lot. It might slow down, but not prevent. The only way is to charge and store batteries outside IMO.

While on a ride you should have enough time to react. Batteries don't explode like bombs. If you see smoke, feel funny smell, hear hissing sound etc - make sure you are at healthy distance from your battery.

One more thing - rim brakes eat rims. Faster on e-bikes. If you are not keen on wheel lacing then perhaps it is time to think of upgrading to disc brakes if possible.
 
That’s a good question. If it can handle a front rack with a load is that different than the force of a front e-hub?
Yes the main hubmotor forces try to twist the axle out of the dropouts. That force gets transfered to the fork legs, trying to twist them in the opposite direction of the spinning wheel. Combined with additive forces from hitting bumps and potholes.

Higher powered hubmotors are generally not advised for CF forks, also not advised for aluminum or magnesium suspension forks. CF has been shown to fail spectacularly when subjected to forces it was not designed for.

Will yours be OK? Hard to really know. Might be OK with a lower powered motor. A steel replacement could be the solution. Bonus: Relatively simple revert to stock bike condition.

 
Yeah, deconstructed geared hub motor is currently a gourmet dish.
 
Yeah for safety & traction purposes i'd always put the motor in the back wheel when possible, even if it's wimpy.
I really don't like how CF fails either. I won't buy or use anything made with that kind of material.
 
Yes the main hubmotor forces try to twist the axle out of the dropouts. That force gets transfered to the fork legs, trying to twist them in the opposite direction of the spinning wheel. Combined with additive forces from hitting bumps and potholes.

Higher powered hubmotors are generally not advised for CF forks, also not advised for aluminum or magnesium suspension forks. CF has been shown to fail spectacularly when subjected to forces it was not designed for.

Will yours be OK? Hard to really know. Might be OK with a lower powered motor. A steel replacement could be the solution. Bonus: Relatively simple revert to stock bike condition.

Stock hybrid bike is carbon fork. :)

The folder is Chromoly frame and fork. And hydraulic disc brakes. Making me wonder if its the better ebike conversion option. But it has 16” wheels. It takes off like a rocket under pedal power.

I could use the folder for an ebike commuter and the 700c hybrid for fitness. 🤔

This is one of the primary reasons I am/was considering the friction drive, despite its shortcomings, it'd work on either without modification and there is a quick release adapter available to easily swap to either bicycle.
 
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One more thing - rim brakes eat rims. Faster on e-bikes. If you are not keen on wheel lacing then perhaps it is time to think of upgrading to disc brakes if possible.

Depends on how much turning you are doing.

In the world of road bikes a wheel built with rim brake spacing is well known to be better at descending than a rim built with disc brake spacing. Being able to descend faster means the brakes are used less.
 
Depends on how much turning you are doing.

In the world of road bikes a wheel built with rim brake spacing is well known to be better at descending than a rim built with disc brake spacing. Being able to descend faster means the brakes are used less.
I've been through several iterations of both. I found that disc brakes would often overheat or fade when continuously going down steep hills, whereas my Magura hydraulic rim brakes have never had that problem.
 
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I've been through several iterations of both. I found that disc brakes would often overheat or fade when continuously going down steep hills, whereas my Magura hydraulic rim brakes have never had that problem.
The problem comes when you have to remove the wheel or replace pads. Then you'll waste so much time on those brakes that you'll wish you were stopping by dragging your sneakers on the ground.

P.S. - All rim brakes have the same maximum capacity for any given rim. No hydraulics required or even desirable.
 
The problem comes when you have to remove the wheel or replace pads. Then you'll waste so much time on those brakes that you'll wish you were stopping by dragging your sneakers on the ground.

P.S. - All rim brakes have the same maximum capacity for any given rim. No hydraulics required or even desirable.
I find the hydraulics easier to adjust when a wheel goes out of true and more responsive than mechanical.
 
This is the only rear hub kit I've found that supports a Cassette and V-brakes.

It seems it would allow me to keep my beloved Microshift Advent 1x9 — 30T / 11x38 drivetrain without alternation.

But my questions are

1) Would it help a bit with my uphill climbs?

2) Would the motor struggle too much?

3) If I turn it off, how much will it resist?
 
There's potentially hundreds of rear hub kits that fit this definition. Look for a machined sidewall.

Check with the supplier to see if it is a dual reduction geared hub motor. It doesn't look like one. Weight is not specified. Model is also not specified, so you need to find that out. before questions #2 and #3 can be answered.

My rule? no specs, no buy. Otherwise you're playing roulette with bad odds.

Recommend you spoke a wheel with a light motor that's optimized. That's how you'd get what you were looking for originally. Many hubs have been mentioned which are more suitable than this one which probably has a single gear reduction and is heavier than you wanted.
 
BTW this motor doesn't mention compatibility with microshift. Assume all hub motors with casettes are the typical HG type. Losing a gear won't be a big deal.
 
BTW this motor doesn't mention compatibility with microshift. Assume all hub motors with casettes are the typical HG type. Losing a gear won't be a big deal.
"Designed specifically for our ADVENT Super Short and Sword Black, this 9-speed, 11-38T cassette provides wide range and low gears. It’s built with the same precision and durability as our wider range cassettes. And yes, it works with a standard HG freehub body and a normal 9-speed chain."

 
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