Izip ezgo - the controller is blown.. right ?

[Ypedal]

So.. yet another " wtf " adventure in ebike repair !

16" iZip ezgo folding bike, 24v SLA, LBS got in touch needing help...



Story goes, customer took it to them with broken spokes, needing repair.. they removed the wheel and swapped the spokes, then gave it back to the customer ( was dropped off without battery pack, so LBS could not test it ) .. then it came back and customer says it won't run. ... email from customer says something about he looked at it and found the colors between the motor and controller did not match, he tried swapping them but no joy ..

When the controller is given power the motor spins rough, when the power is removed the wheel turns free..

So, if there was a kinked wire causing a short, the motor would cog with or without power, so that's not the issue.

I opened up the controller box, it's Ananda brand, potted..



I put a Lyen tester on the phase wires, all 3 phase light up in forward and reverse ( geared brushless motor, no freewheel ) have not yet tested hall sensors..

But my best bet is the controller is toast .. but usually when the controller is shorted the motors cog with or without battery power applied..

thoughts ?

 

[amberwolf]

Wrong phase/hall combo?

Partly broken phase wire somewhere along the way? (inside the insulation, so you can't see it)

 

[Ypedal]

if that were the case i would expect the motor to stutter when throttle is applied.

However, this motor will cog as soon as the controller has battery hooked up even without the throttle being touched.

 

[Ypedal]

digging deeper.. found this :


Nick in the main motor wire and the + and - hall sensor wires look to have touched.

Tried to separate the wires and power up again but same symptoms . ..

Wired up a sensorless controller and the motor will work.. so i believe that's the easiest way to get the bike going..

Testing and/or replacing the hall sensors would be a huge pain because of this issue :


In order to feed a new wire thru the axle, this sucker would have to come out somehow..

Interesting motor tho... no freewheel.

 

[dnmun]

drill it out. once the cover is off you may be able to back the threads out and use another screw to replace it. this is where having a reverse thread drill would be great because it would walk the screw out instead of drilling it out.

i just had to drill out the screws holding the case on the relay of my new used dead battery mower so i could repair the contacts inside. they were epoxied in place so i had to drill them out and then replace them later with some new bolts. M4x30mm.

 

[Ypedal]

Well.. shit.. good news tho !

While digging even deeper and wanting to test the hall sensors on both motor and controller side with the Lyen tester i found the blue hall pin ( on those stupid white flaky connectors ) bent just enough to not hit the slot on the female side... .. and yes.. i had looked at it.. multiple times.. but the pins float and move around in the housing enough to appear " ok " .. but not always lined up when hooked up !.

go figure.. but this is good, no need for replacement parts ! 8) . it's a happy ending !

 

[docnjoj]

Yeah Y, those square block Hall connectors seem to let the pins out quite easily. I found one a couple of weeks ago. Cute 100H motors really don't like working with only 2 Halls. Easy to fix, though.
otherDoc

 

[gogo]

digging deeper..

In order to feed a new wire thru the axle, this sucker would have to come out somehow..
Dremel to the rescue! The LBS probavly used an American phillips screwdriver when they should have been using a JIS impact screwdriver
Interesting motor tho... no freewheel.
I have one of these. Thank you for posting the pics so I know what's in there. I suspect they have no freewheel in order to limit the downhill speed. Stock is 24V of LA, and when I put 56V of Lithuim on it I was terrified.

Well.. shit.. good news tho !

While digging even deeper and wanting to test the hall sensors on both motor and controller side with the Lyen tester i found the blue hall pin ( on those stupid white flaky connectors ) bent just enough to not hit the slot on the female side... .. and yes.. i had looked at it.. multiple times.. but the pins float and move around in the housing enough to appear " ok " .. but not always lined up when hooked up !.

go figure.. but this is good, no need for replacement parts ! 8) . it's a happy ending !

Thanks for that info. I'll get my connectors changed out as a preventative maintenance measure.