Just put Statorade in my hub motor... (QS205 related)

atarijedi

100 W
Joined
Jul 18, 2016
Messages
241
Just put statorade in my hub motor, it is surprisingly easy to do.

Anyone who is reluctant to do it because they think it will be difficult to do, or they don't have the right tools, don't be. I have a QS205, all I use was the appropriate allen key (surprisingly an SAE one fit better than metric), a large adjustable wrench, 2 large flat head screw drivers, a thin wide chisel, and a hammer. For compounds you need the statorade, some RTV silicone gasket (I got high temp stuff), and some blue locktite.

I took the sprocket side lid off.

Take out the allen head machine screws, put the chisel up against the separation point and tap a few times, then just go around the circumference, once you can get about 1/4" of the chisel in, you can slowly push it down and work around. Then you can move to the screwdrivers, but use them on opposing sides at the same time. Eventually the lid just pops off. Then you squirt the statorade between the magnets, you are supposed to use 5mL total (syringe has 10mL), I went a bit over and used more like 8mL, because the stuff just gets sucked out by the magnets.

To put the lid back on, first run a thin bead of RTV around the edge of the mating surface, I then use a finger and flatten it out so I know it won't run over the edges on the inside when squished. Place the lid back over the axle, center it, push it down so its tight, then place the 2 screwdrivers across the flanged part (aka rim) that the axle comes through (you could use a large washer that fits around the axle and sits on that rim instead, or a tap&die tool holder also fit over the axle), and screw the large nut onto the axle. Screw it down with the large adjustable wrench so it sits on top of the screwdrivers, this will push the lid down over the bearing as you tighten it.

Once the lid is far enough down that the allenhead screws will screw in half way, you can take the large nut off and remove the screwdrivers, put some locktite on the allenhead screws, put them all in, and start screwing them down (this pulls the lid down) in a star pattern until the lid is tight and the RTV squishes out a bit. Then wipe it all up.

Put it back on the bike and give it a spin.

Done!

Took me about 30min to do. I could probably do it in half that time now that I know which tools to use.

Probably not all that much different for other hub motors.
 
Hello
If anyone would still check this thread, i have a couple of questions.

Just received my statorade and hubsinks. Do you inject the statorade into one place and the magents wpuld spread it around as they rotate OR do you have to inject into several places of the rotor?

Is 5ml enough for 1 motor? Because after i ordered the statorade I went ahead and changed my rig to 2WD. Now I've got 2 motors and only 10ml of statorade.

Also, would adding tiny raspberry pi heatsinks to the hall effect sensors make the sensors ineffective in detecting the magnets?

Thanks
 
RogueOne said:
Also, would adding tiny raspberry pi heatsinks to the hall effect sensors make the sensors ineffective in detecting the magnets?
If the hall sensors are in a hubmotor, there is nowhere to put heatsinks on them.

Even if there were, the sensors aren't generating heat, so there's nothing for the heatsinks to do, except gather heat and put it into them. (which the stator laminations they're embedded in are already doing).
 
Here is a link but its not the one mentioning the hardening issue etc
https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=105300
 
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