Stomper
1 mW
I bought one and this for a fuse, 12$ shipped
My controller is 100A max.
I'll test them out in 1-2 week.
My controller is 100A max.
I'll test them out in 1-2 week.
key lock switch question
- Thread starter tmho
- Start date
rborger73
10 kW
Stomper said:I bought one and this for a fuse, 12$ shipped
My controller is 100A max.
I'll test them out in 1-2 week.
Any links to what you got Stomper? I'm getting ready to order something to put together like this.
Stomper
1 mW
100a breaker
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Low-Voltage-Curcuit-Breaker-For-Car-Audio-Amplifier-System/745969408.html
200a
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/200-AMP-12V-DC-CIRCUIT-BREAKER-REPLACE-FUSE-200A-12VDC/744155233.html
Key switch 300A max
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Car-Battery-Disconnect-Master-Kill-Switch-Cut-Off-Marine-RV-With-Removable-Key/1484353304.html
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Low-Voltage-Curcuit-Breaker-For-Car-Audio-Amplifier-System/745969408.html
200a
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/200-AMP-12V-DC-CIRCUIT-BREAKER-REPLACE-FUSE-200A-12VDC/744155233.html
Key switch 300A max
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Car-Battery-Disconnect-Master-Kill-Switch-Cut-Off-Marine-RV-With-Removable-Key/1484353304.html
rborger73
10 kW
Tench said:You put a key switch in the low current controller on/off circuit and use a pack isolater like this, which would also double as a fuse, you could also still have your handle bar mounted kill switch in series with the key switch.
Ordered two of these off ebay. One for a spare just in case. Got it hooked up and works wonderfully. No audible pop at all at 51v. I am adding in a momentary button and pre charge resistors as well. Thanks for mentioning these Tench. They work great and look nice. Adding a clear waterproof lockable cover of some sort soon as I can find one that looks sturdy.
hi guys! i am looking to also put a key switch to the controller for that little added security of knowing some clown can't just turn on the bike by accident and turn the throttle...
@Tench - from your advice - just to repeat and you can get any basic key switch (like out of an old computer case) and link this in series to the 'ignition' wire.
Unlike a key switch which turns off the battery (i think people call this battery isolator) - which requires a higher Amp rating due to the large current when turning on the battery killing the contacts.
Having said that... what do you do with that 'pack isolater' as mentioned below?
Also... i tried googling it and cant find the right term for it.
I'm wondering what does this 'pack isolater' do?
I have a MAC8T by the way.
@Tench - from your advice - just to repeat and you can get any basic key switch (like out of an old computer case) and link this in series to the 'ignition' wire.
Unlike a key switch which turns off the battery (i think people call this battery isolator) - which requires a higher Amp rating due to the large current when turning on the battery killing the contacts.
Having said that... what do you do with that 'pack isolater' as mentioned below?
Also... i tried googling it and cant find the right term for it.
I'm wondering what does this 'pack isolater' do?
I have a MAC8T by the way.
rborger73 said:Tench said:You put a key switch in the low current controller on/off circuit and use a pack isolater like this, which would also double as a fuse, you could also still have your handle bar mounted kill switch in series with the key switch.
Ordered two of these off ebay. One for a spare just in case. Got it hooked up and works wonderfully. No audible pop at all at 51v. I am adding in a momentary button and pre charge resistors as well. Thanks for mentioning these Tench. They work great and look nice. Adding a clear waterproof lockable cover of some sort soon as I can find one that looks sturdy.
rborger73
10 kW
efergy kb said:hi guys! i am looking to also put a key switch to the controller for that little added security of knowing some clown can't just turn on the bike by accident and turn the throttle...
@Tench - from your advice - just to repeat and you can get any basic key switch (like out of an old computer case) and link this in series to the 'ignition' wire.
Unlike a key switch which turns off the battery (i think people call this battery isolator) - which requires a higher Amp rating due to the large current when turning on the battery killing the contacts.
Having said that... what do you do with that 'pack isolater' as mentioned below?
Also... i tried googling it and cant find the right term for it.
I'm wondering what does this 'pack isolater' do?
I have a MAC8T by the way.
rborger73 said:Tench said:You put a key switch in the low current controller on/off circuit and use a pack isolater like this, which would also double as a fuse, you could also still have your handle bar mounted kill switch in series with the key switch.
Ordered two of these off ebay. One for a spare just in case. Got it hooked up and works wonderfully. No audible pop at all at 51v. I am adding in a momentary button and pre charge resistors as well. Thanks for mentioning these Tench. They work great and look nice. Adding a clear waterproof lockable cover of some sort soon as I can find one that looks sturdy.
If you are running 12s or around there the DC circuit breaker works wonderfully. Can't even hear an audible pop at all. http://www.ebay.com/itm/AIRPAX-40-AMP-SCREW-IN-CIRCUIT-BREAKER-IEGS6-29980-1-V-/251422488719
rborger73 said:
Running 14s.. the question though still stands as i am electronically inept.
So the key lock can link in series on the 'ignition' wire and optionally the ignition button itself (from Cell_Man's kit)?
Also where do you put the circuit breaker? Isn't the point of having a basic & cheap key lock on the ignition wire is because the current will never reach up to 40A? Unlike getting a key switch for the battery cutoff (ie. battery isolator)?
rborger73
10 kW
efergy kb said:
circuit breaker is just more or less a disconnect switch. On mine it just breaks the connection from the main negative terminal coming from my battery. My plan is to add a locking cover to the circuit breaker to keep access from it.
alsmith
100 kW
Not all breakers will be designed to be a main switch so may not have the cycle life of a normal switch if being regularly as a switch, It's better to use the breaker as a breaker AND a normal on/off switch for normal use. I wouldn't use a locking cover though, just hide the switch a bit so it's easily accessed without any problems when needed. If it doesn't trip for a year and you stop carrying the key, lose it and don't notice.... *If* someone finds it what's the worst they can do? If they switch it off it takes seconds to reverse the 'damage'.rborger73 said:
rborger73
10 kW
It's rated higher than needed and I have extras to replace it. If I didn't have the key to unlock it... I wouldn't be riding it. The locking cover is simply a preventative to keep kids fingers off it. If I'm riding it the breaker is on till I get home. I have keys for my locking tablet holder, and cable to lock it up as well. All keys are on with my house and car keys... Plus I keep a duplicate set. I'm not the kind that will lose a key.
This is a DC breaker rated higher than I need. Not at all concerned. It wasn't installed to be a safety circuit breaker. It would trip if the main leads shorted out for some reason though. If I have one of the breakers die on me I'll replace it. Still adding a precharge setup to it yet as well. Once that is installed I won't be concerned even a little bit. I put a lot of thought and time in my setup.
alsmith
100 kW
rborger73 said:
It's rated higher than needed and I have extras to replace it. If I didn't have the key to unlock it... I wouldn't be riding it. The locking cover is simply a preventative to keep kids fingers off it. If I'm riding it the breaker is on till I get home. I have keys for my locking tablet holder, and cable to lock it up as well. All keys are on with my house and car keys... Plus I keep a duplicate set. I'm not the kind that will lose a key.
This is a DC breaker rated higher than I need. Not at all concerned. It wasn't installed to be a safety circuit breaker. It would trip if the main leads shorted out for some reason though. If I have one of the breakers die on me I'll replace it. Still adding a precharge setup to it yet as well. Once that is installed I won't be concerned even a little bit. I put a lot of thought and time in my setup.
A key would usually get lost while out and at the farest point from the spare.
rborger73
10 kW
alsmith said:rborger73 said:
It's rated higher than needed and I have extras to replace it. If I didn't have the key to unlock it... I wouldn't be riding it. The locking cover is simply a preventative to keep kids fingers off it. If I'm riding it the breaker is on till I get home. I have keys for my locking tablet holder, and cable to lock it up as well. All keys are on with my house and car keys... Plus I keep a duplicate set. I'm not the kind that will lose a key.
This is a DC breaker rated higher than I need. Not at all concerned. It wasn't installed to be a safety circuit breaker. It would trip if the main leads shorted out for some reason though. If I have one of the breakers die on me I'll replace it. Still adding a precharge setup to it yet as well. Once that is installed I won't be concerned even a little bit. I put a lot of thought and time in my setup.
A key would usually get lost while out and at the farest point from the spare.
Thats when the old.. "yank it off" comes into play. lol Not like it is going to be an armor plated housing. lol Likely a clear acrylic cover with a key to keep honest hands off it. lol
mateusleo
1 kW
Chill, i just got what you need, haha. http://www.ebay.com/itm/321363781052?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Well. i feel obliged to explain how it works. Lets take a look on the picture:
By this picture we can see that there are 4 contacts, 2 with same color (green/orange). So, 4 contacts = 2 switches, i have one of those, and each side difined by one color is a switch, green side is a switch and so is the orange. The description says that ONE switch is normally OPEN while the other is normally CLOSED. Also, each switch handle up to 10 amps and they can be stacked as shown in this picture:
What i did was buy 2 switches and put the same state switches in parallel (10A + 10A = 20A), as shown in ths picture:
You can see that both contacts are red, which means they have the same state, and it doesnt matter if they are normally open or closed, the key is removable in both positions, so only thing that matter is that you can hook up many of those together to get more amp capacity in parallel, and they look very nice in my batter box:
Also, they are really cheap and i recommend using them. I made a scheme to make it clear:
Well. i feel obliged to explain how it works. Lets take a look on the picture:
By this picture we can see that there are 4 contacts, 2 with same color (green/orange). So, 4 contacts = 2 switches, i have one of those, and each side difined by one color is a switch, green side is a switch and so is the orange. The description says that ONE switch is normally OPEN while the other is normally CLOSED. Also, each switch handle up to 10 amps and they can be stacked as shown in this picture:
What i did was buy 2 switches and put the same state switches in parallel (10A + 10A = 20A), as shown in ths picture:
You can see that both contacts are red, which means they have the same state, and it doesnt matter if they are normally open or closed, the key is removable in both positions, so only thing that matter is that you can hook up many of those together to get more amp capacity in parallel, and they look very nice in my batter box:
Also, they are really cheap and i recommend using them. I made a scheme to make it clear:
rborger73
10 kW
mateusleo said:Chill, i just got what you need, haha. http://www.ebay.com/itm/321363781052?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Well. i feel obliged to explain how it works. Lets take a look on the picture:
By this picture we can see that there are 4 contacts, 2 with same color (green/orange). So, 4 contacts = 2 switches, i have one of those, and each side difined by one color is a switch, green side is a switch and so is the orange. The description says that ONE switch is normally OPEN while the other is normally CLOSED. Also, each switch handle up to 10 amps and they can be stacked as shown in this picture:
What i did was buy 2 switches and put the same state switches in parallel (10A + 10A = 20A), as shown in ths picture:
You can see that both contacts are red, which means they have the same state, and it doesnt matter if they are normally open or closed, the key is removable in both positions, so only thing that matter is that you can hook up many of those together to get more amp capacity in parallel, and they look very nice in my batter box:
Also, they are really cheap and i recommend using them. I made a scheme to make it clear:
20A is rather light. I draw 20A before I leave the driveway. Circuit breaker I'm using is up to 80v and doesn't trip till 50A sustained for a bit.
mateusleo
1 kW
rborger73 said:
You can stack more contacts together as shown in the picture:
This way you can set multilpes in parallel to get more amp rate, i use it for 20A only, since the motor ir 48v 1000w it does the job, you can use 3(3x2) in parallel to hold 60 amps.
rborger73
10 kW
mateusleo said:rborger73 said:
You can stack more contacts together as shown in the picture:
This way you can set multilpes in parallel to get more amp rate, i use it for 20A only, since the motor ir 48v 1000w it does the job, you can use 3(3x2) in parallel to hold 60 amps.
Ya more contact points isn't really a "plus" in my books. We need a one stop solution. Key switch, precharge, heavy duty amp ratings. High DC voltage rating.
rborger73
10 kW
That 10A rating is for AC too not DC.
Contact Rating: AC-15 36V/10A 110V/10A 220V/5A 380V/2.7A660V/1.8A
DC-13 24V/4A 48V/4A 110V/2A 220V/1A 440V/0.6A <----- rating for 24V and 48v DC is only 4A
Contact Rating: AC-15 36V/10A 110V/10A 220V/5A 380V/2.7A660V/1.8A
DC-13 24V/4A 48V/4A 110V/2A 220V/1A 440V/0.6A <----- rating for 24V and 48v DC is only 4A
mateusleo
1 kW
rborger73 said:
Its been working for 20A as shown in the scheme i posted in the earlier post and its been like this for more than an year...
rborger73
10 kW
mateusleo said:
Probably is working but it is still only rated for 4A at 48v. But in order for me to reach the 50 amps it takes to trip my DC rated circuit breaker I'd need 12 or 13 of those modules put together. I hit close to 30A most days I'm out riding with the hills around here. Even with a 50A 60v DC rated circuit breaker I bought an extra and am adding a precharge circuit as well. That might work for some though. Just not my cup of tea as a solution.
John in CR
100 TW
For the keyswitch I use a motorcycle keyswitch. Which has good enough contacts for the low current switch on the controller as well as carry the current load of the DC/DC converter for lights and accessories. Good side benefits compared to some others are decent keys, as well as being locking in place while on, which is good for bumps especially if you have a number of keys on the ring.
The controllers with power drain when off issues are those with drain down resistors, which I remove.
The controllers with power drain when off issues are those with drain down resistors, which I remove.
alsmith
100 kW
John in CR said:
A motorcycle ignition lock has to be far superior to the ones often used on ebikes but to get any benefit it would have to be carefully mounted like on motorbikes- no access to the wiring at the back.
rborger73
10 kW
We really need a 2 part module. A low voltage key switch. 3 position. Off-precharge-on. With a nice bolt on for the handlebars fully enclosed and waterproof. An LED to light up once the precharge is charged. Then a cable to run down to another module which contains the actual precharge and some sort of a remote triggered circuit breaker to fully disengage the battery. I'm not sure why someone hasn't already started producing something similar. Make it handle up to 100v for a standard one, and 100v and more for another version. Have the key like John said able to lock it into the on position and remove the key. Someone could sell that for 100.00 all day long. I wouldn't even hesitate at 100.00 to order one.
r3volved
100 kW
Couldn't it trigger a relay or something then to flip a contactor. Orange LED while precharging then flip contactor and Green LED for go time? I'm an electronics noob but reason would tell me that if you can light an LED when ready, you can trigger an event.
rborger73
10 kW
r3volved said:
Probably a pretty small circuit to do that. I know those multi colored leds are around. I see it as a long rectangle maybe 2.5" with some of the smaller circuitry on the handlebars, the led, and the 3 position switch. have the cable run back to the battery box and have the higher voltage stuff back there. Really seems like a no brainer someone should jump on. I don't have the capital to do something like that and get it rolling. Speedict? Add that in and you have your all in one setup. Plus they have a bontroller bms setup coming out sometime soon. Could be one big module for the controller, bms, precharge, and cut off or breaker of some sort. All in one solution. You supply the motor and the battery. Tie the battery into the bms, put the switch on the handlebars, plug in your motor connections and down the road.
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