shorza
10 kW
Looks like it's going to be great.
Are you worried that the motor will rub once it has warmed and expanded?
Are you worried that the motor will rub once it has warmed and expanded?
KMX Typhoon midmount Minimonster 2 speed hub motor
- Thread starter Trilska
- Start date
Trilska
10 W
As for the traction goes... well if i have to implement traction control i will know i have dimensioned the drivetrain properly 
As for rubbing due to heatexpansion, i doubt it will be a problem and if it ends upp being one i will just need to give the motormount some love and atention with the dremmel.
As for rubbing due to heatexpansion, i doubt it will be a problem and if it ends upp being one i will just need to give the motormount some love and atention with the dremmel.
Danny Mayes
1 kW
I think you will be fine with that belt size. What is it 8mm x 20mm? That will do many many kW's... Especially with that big drive pully. Something tells me, you weren't leaving things to chance when you selected that drive train...
D
D
Trilska
10 W
I think you will be fine with that belt size. What is it 8mm x 20mm? That will do many many kW's... Especially with that big drive pully. Something tells me, you weren't leaving things to chance when you selected that drive train...
21 mm wide to be exakt, should give me a couple of mm margin towards the frame and tire. (why not use all the space you have to play with :wink: )
Danny Mayes
1 kW
Yeah, cool. What kW will you be running through the motor and (you may have mentioned earlier in the thread) what controller are you using?
Trilska
10 W
I am running a sinewave 50A unit that i bought from John in CR together with the motor at 74V nominal . So to start with a little over 3kW. But once i have the bike finnished and stable the goal is to bumb that up quite a bit until somthing breaks, fix it and the continue.
Danny Mayes
1 kW
Cool!
It is going to be a fun ride. Can't wait to see it finished.
D
It is going to be a fun ride. Can't wait to see it finished.
D
John in CR
100 TW
Looking awesome Trilska. I need to get those solar modules over to you. I had hoped to surprise you with some that were over 50% more efficient, but those didn't pan out.
A question, have you checked the speed? If that's a 26" wheel on the back, I think you may be geared for closer to 50mph instead of kph. What are the tooth counts on your pulleys? Keep in mind that I was getting 50mph with the motor in wheel and a 16.75" OD scooter wheel. Just eye-balling your pulley sizes it looks close to the same gearing driving a 26".
Regarding the switching mechanism, I'm pretty sure that the way it works is that in high only half of the current goes through the wires that flex and the contact surfaces, and in low all of the current flows through it. The only example of a failure I could find was back in '08 on a 130kg lead powered scooter, and one of those flexible wires shorted when the solder melted at the connection. The design use was 60V and 40-50A peak pushing lead laden scooters, so the shifter was to be use a lot...eg recommended for every launch in city riding. With our far lighter loads frequent shifting isn't necessary, so I think we can get away with a much thicker braided wire in the shifting mechanism as long as it doesn't rub on the rotor.
John
A question, have you checked the speed? If that's a 26" wheel on the back, I think you may be geared for closer to 50mph instead of kph. What are the tooth counts on your pulleys? Keep in mind that I was getting 50mph with the motor in wheel and a 16.75" OD scooter wheel. Just eye-balling your pulley sizes it looks close to the same gearing driving a 26".
Regarding the switching mechanism, I'm pretty sure that the way it works is that in high only half of the current goes through the wires that flex and the contact surfaces, and in low all of the current flows through it. The only example of a failure I could find was back in '08 on a 130kg lead powered scooter, and one of those flexible wires shorted when the solder melted at the connection. The design use was 60V and 40-50A peak pushing lead laden scooters, so the shifter was to be use a lot...eg recommended for every launch in city riding. With our far lighter loads frequent shifting isn't necessary, so I think we can get away with a much thicker braided wire in the shifting mechanism as long as it doesn't rub on the rotor.
John
Trilska
10 W
The driving wheel is the stock KMX Typhoon 406 (20'') and the pullyes are 38t and 63t. So at nominal voltage of 74V topspeed should end up around 58km/h based of a loaded kv of 13.6
John i almost forgot about those solar panels, but it sure would be fun to tinker with now when the sun is starting to return this latitude.
As for the switching aparatus i will keep it untill it becomes a limiting (or failing factor). But it sure is good to know it can handle some abuse on a level that i probebly have a hard time reaching with my relativly low top speed and light weight.
John i almost forgot about those solar panels, but it sure would be fun to tinker with now when the sun is starting to return this latitude.
John in CR
100 TW
With a 20" you should be right on the money. You'll probably end up somewhat over your target speed, but not too far over. I'm basing that on you having quite a bit less wind resistance at 60kph than mine at 80kph, and my well used Konion pack. One thing is for sure, the motor isn't going to be stressed with it geared to effectively a 12" OD wheel as a hubmotor unless you're a really large man. I've only run them with a 16.75" wheel and my mid-drive is effectively a 15" wheel with the chain driving a 21.5" OD wheel and a 25t to 36t reduction.
Trilska
10 W
You are right, for pedaling close to the top speed i need a larger front sprocket, somwhere around 80t. (ideally a Schlumpf HSD but way to expensive) But i already have the 60t sprocket and the aligt 80t is around five times what i paid for the 60t, and the 60t should be good to around 45 km/h, a much more comfortable cruising speed.
Trilska
10 W
A little update. The belt tensioner is mounted and the belt is ordered, will hopefully be able to testrun it in ducktape mode.
Danny Mayes
1 kW
Pics????
Trilska
10 W
Bad News everyone!
When i receved the belt yesterday i made a quick check, and it seems i got the pully groves dimension wrong... So i wont be able to use any of my pullies .
Already started on the on the uppdate, will hopefully be able to start the manifacturing this weekend.
Other uppdate, i have odered a replacement seat, since the stock ones plastic parts are prone to kracking. Plus the one i ordered is lighter (important part for my batterenclosure solution but more on that later.) and hopefully more comfortable.
When i receved the belt yesterday i made a quick check, and it seems i got the pully groves dimension wrong... So i wont be able to use any of my pullies
.Already started on the on the uppdate, will hopefully be able to start the manifacturing this weekend.
Other uppdate, i have odered a replacement seat, since the stock ones plastic parts are prone to kracking. Plus the one i ordered is lighter (important part for my batterenclosure solution but more on that later.) and hopefully more comfortable.
Trilska
10 W
I have managed to rework the pullies, they are not perfect but will hopefully be up for the job.
And somehow i managed to order the wrong length for the belt. It is just out of reach of what the belt tensioner could handle. :?
The plan to test run it in ducktape mode this weekend is out the window...
Will hopefully have a new belt later next weeek.
View attachment 2
And somehow i managed to order the wrong length for the belt. It is just out of reach of what the belt tensioner could handle. :?
The plan to test run it in ducktape mode this weekend is out the window...
Will hopefully have a new belt later next weeek.
View attachment 2
Danny Mayes
1 kW
Bummer, looking great though...
Wheazel
10 kW
Did you manually sketch the profiles to do camcurves from?
There are several free or cheap or trailperiod camcreator softwares that has built in standards.
Ive used such softwares to do htd5 pulleys.
Best of luck with making the new ones.
There are several free or cheap or trailperiod camcreator softwares that has built in standards.
Ive used such softwares to do htd5 pulleys.
Best of luck with making the new ones.
Wheazel
10 kW
Whats the price of the hygia multi btw? And where are they available?
Trilska
10 W
I got the orignal drawing from a pulleymanufacturer´s cad model... Seems like they dident want anyone to just copy it 
As for the Hygia multi, i bought it via hygias onlineshop for about 250$ i think http://www.hygia.com.tw/liveshop/index.php?route=product/manufacturer&manufacturer_id=12
And yes, the link is probebly dead, and have been so for the last couple of months...
The brakes works way better than the stock mechanical ones both in power and modulation, but the biggest difference is you dont have to balance the brakeforce every other week. So i like the brakes but i cant recomend buying any hygia products due to that the company seems to be dead (dying?), or atleast not being able to keep up certain parts of their website.
BTW the new belt is shipped so i am eagerly waiting for it... cant wait to testride this thing
As for the Hygia multi, i bought it via hygias onlineshop for about 250$ i think http://www.hygia.com.tw/liveshop/index.php?route=product/manufacturer&manufacturer_id=12
And yes, the link is probebly dead, and have been so for the last couple of months...
The brakes works way better than the stock mechanical ones both in power and modulation, but the biggest difference is you dont have to balance the brakeforce every other week. So i like the brakes but i cant recomend buying any hygia products due to that the company seems to be dead (dying?), or atleast not being able to keep up certain parts of their website.
BTW the new belt is shipped so i am eagerly waiting for it... cant wait to testride this thing
Trilska
10 W
It is alive.
Finished building the new beltensioner yesterday, so i took it on the obligatory testdrive in ducktape-mode. works fine exept that i seem to get it to cog over at full power.
And it does great donuts on gravel. 8)
Pictures comming soon.
Finished building the new beltensioner yesterday, so i took it on the obligatory testdrive in ducktape-mode. works fine exept that i seem to get it to cog over at full power.
And it does great donuts on gravel. 8)
Pictures comming soon.
Trilska
10 W
Tweaked the belt tensioner and now there is no skipping. Sence there are no more skipping it will do burnouts like a charm :lol:
It might not be the fastest but good enough to give people the "grin" (and grown men giggeling like little girls), and confusing limited competent cameramen.
Sience it do have tourque in abundance i decided that we should try a rework of a "studentikos" (Studenty?) tradition at Chalmers University of Technology. Baisicly you ride a plastick breadbox down staircases. So now when we are powered lets try it on level ground.
The breadbox
It worked suprisingly well, even uphill... ops i think i built a tractor 8)
It might not be the fastest but good enough to give people the "grin" (and grown men giggeling like little girls), and confusing limited competent cameramen.
Sience it do have tourque in abundance i decided that we should try a rework of a "studentikos" (Studenty?) tradition at Chalmers University of Technology. Baisicly you ride a plastick breadbox down staircases. So now when we are powered lets try it on level ground.
The breadbox
It worked suprisingly well, even uphill... ops i think i built a tractor 8)
jansevr
1 kW
very nice! good to see that thing running - now we need some video! what's the peak power you've seen so far?
Trilska
10 W
As far as power goes i have no good mesurement yet. (CA not calibrated properly yet)
