Kona Stinky Six 2009 Conversion

I have some feedback on the tubeless system.After 4 months of almost everyday use on the mountain i have to say that i forgot what it is to replace the rear tier.I am starting to forget the hole process :p

Amazingly in this months i have pumped my tiers 2 times only it seems that the tubeless system is better from all aspects you can run on a range of 20 psi to 60 psi depending on the type of ridding you want to do.

In four months i used to pay at least 10 normal tubes 3 euros *10 = 30 euros + the frustration tubeless costs me for 2 rims 35 euros and they suppose to last for 2 years.
 
More feedback on the tubeless system of should i say praise tubeless...

Today my rear tier failed on the trail causing of a knife rock or a piece of glass that i found close to the scene its about 2cm's wide to the rear tier.I am amazed that the fluid worked out on that big hole and the tier did not loose all its air.I managed to stop from about 45 km/hour safely due to the fact that the rear tier had some grip if i had to use only the front brake i should be laying on the rocks receiving all there love.I made a stop for 5 minutes so the fluid can work out and after that i manage to get back home on the bike without damaging the rim or anything.

Anyone repaired a tier after an incident like that ? or it should be better to get a new one to be on the safe side ?Have in mind that i abuse my tiers a lot on the trails.So getting a harder tier should be better i think.This one had great grip but it was softer than a march mellow :roll:

I had the pressure on my tiers on 40psi this day.Usually i run the rear on 55-60psi and the front 30-40psi but i wanted to test out less air on the rear tier and this is the price i guess for my curiosity :p

Anyone experienced things like that ? any tips for the right tier ?

P.S.
Holly tubeless i pay to you :p
 
Alastor said:
I got some new pictures of the bike with the battery attacked on my backpack after the upgrade i did to 9x6s1p 20c 5Ah Zippy's 75Volts15Amp Hours.

Also i manage to get some data out of the discharge of the pack.

When i charge the battery pack at 4.1(4.08 real voltage) i can draw a max of 10Ah to 11Ah with the regen before the pack gets to 66Volts 22Volts per pack and all cells at 3.666.
When i charge to 4.2 (4.15 really voltage) i can draw a max of 12Ah to 13Ah with the regen before the pack gets to 66Volts again.

Stupid zippy batteries i hear that Turnigy deliver there Ah as they should.

Ok i got carried away to the point now.

The next thing i want to do to the bike is : Remove the FalconEV bag and the rear suspension.Replace the FalconEV with a very small triangle bag just for the cables and upgrade the rear suspension to something with a little more travel.I want the bike to look just like a regular downhill , freeride bike and make it even more stealthy than it is now.

Are those LiPo or LiFePO4?
 
skyungjae said:
Alastor said:
Zippy RC LIPO 20C 5Ah x 9 bricks.75V15Ah pack.

That's a lot of battery. Makes me think my 15s Zippy LiFePO4 8.4Ah set up isn't so bad.

It only has to do with the discharge man.I need a big battery because i run 3500 watts most of the time.The 6x5s2p Lifepo4 are not bad at all the brand Zippy is heheheheh
 
Peter Sternersson said:
Those are some nasty roads you are riding. Looks like sharp stones just about everywhere. I´m surprised that your tire lasted so long as it did :D

Yes Ymittos is one of the harder trains and trails on Greece lucky me.Some professional downhill riders say that if you learn the some trails there you can ride almost anything.
I was extra careful with this tier because i knew that it was soft and i don't block the rear wheel if i really didn't have to but eventually it wears out.

I believe that a harder minion tier should have lasted at least two years.My old front tier witch is a hard 2.7 minion is three years old and it still works.But again the rear tier in a off road ebike gets crazy beat off in every ride.

Think that 6 months earlier i was going on 20 km/hour in that same spot and now i was going 45-50 km/hour.

At the end tubeless from my point of view and considering the safety they provide are worth the effort.With a regular tube i should have lost the rear wheel instantaneously ending up in a really bad crash.I seen this happened and in hole with diameter of 2cm or even less the tube looses all air in a second so crash is most certain.Ill take a picture now that the fluid did its work and saw you the hole you will freak out..... :shock:
 
Some pictures of the tier after i left it over night and pump it up again at 40psi today.That think that looks like dirt is the silicone thing that the fluid is turning.I don't know if that will hold another trail but i will test it out with great caution in some point.
 

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I manage to repair the old tier and its ok to ride inside the town but not for the trail.So i picked up a new Minion to be on the safe side and went out to test it.

I hope you enjoy the video [youtube]t2jP9ssjTWU[/youtube]
 
Since one of my 6s1p bricks have a weak cell i decided to remove the brick from the battery pack until i will repair the weak cell.I reconfigured my battery to 24s2p and i did a NO LOAD speed test.
Maximum speed was 89 km/h on 100 Volts on the T configuration motor.I will limit the top speed because its dangerous as hell to go in that speeds.

I think 100V * 20A = 2000 watts is a nice limitation LVC set to 88 Volts and i hope for the best.I am thinking of removing the regen on that volts to avoid overheating the controller.Any suggestions ?
 
pendragon8000 said:
I wouldn't worry. Just keep monitoring the controller by feel. Or add a switch in series with the brake switch so you can turn it off when your making it work hard.

It did just fine but i did not want to push the 4110's on 100Volts.Its close to there limit and i can't afford to burn my controller :) Still the improvement was noticeable even with the power restricted to 2000 watts.I was lucky not to push it just because some of my cells was about to puff and without a bms or something if you are not careful your ride can go pyrotechnics :p
 
Alastor said:
pendragon8000 said:
I wouldn't worry. Just keep monitoring the controller by feel. Or add a switch in series with the brake switch so you can turn it off when your making it work hard.

It did just fine but i did not want to push the 4110's on 100Volts.Its close to there limit and i can't afford to burn my controller :) Still the improvement was noticeable even with the power restricted to 2000 watts.I was lucky not to push it just because some of my cells was about to puff and without a bms or something if you are not careful your ride can go pyrotechnics :p

250px-Human_Torch.png


Has anyone with backpack LiPos ever "flame on?"
 
skyungjae said:
Alastor said:
pendragon8000 said:
I wouldn't worry. Just keep monitoring the controller by feel. Or add a switch in series with the brake switch so you can turn it off when your making it work hard.

It did just fine but i did not want to push the 4110's on 100Volts.Its close to there limit and i can't afford to burn my controller :) Still the improvement was noticeable even with the power restricted to 2000 watts.I was lucky not to push it just because some of my cells was about to puff and without a bms or something if you are not careful your ride can go pyrotechnics :p

250px-Human_Torch.png


Has anyone with backpack LiPos ever "flame on?"

Heheheheheheh i think you found him :p
 
Lol..
Lucky no puff ;)
I think the high voltage and modest power limit is really great as it gives a good power out put curve. So you still get a bit of acceleration at a medium speed. Instead of blasting off the line then not having any power to accelerate through the mid range speeds (30 kph)
 
The tips Dogman had given me over this year probably saved me from going pyrotechnics.Thanks again man.Think what might have happened if i had not restricted the power there witch is something i do after a log conversation with the man i decided to go easy on the Zippy lipos due to the fact that they are bad quality cells.

When the pack dies i will go for another type of cells for sure.Lipos might be light and powerful but they can get hard to manage without a bms.Especially in big packs like the 24s2p witch has 48 cells.

I think its time to start developing a special CA that will be able to monitor the individual cell voltages on RC lipos.Come on do it :) ill buy buy it for sure :)
 
Alastor said:
The tips Dogman had given me over this year probably saved me from going pyrotechnics.Thanks again man.Think what might have happened if i had not restricted the power there witch is something i do after a log conversation with the man i decided to go easy on the Zippy lipos due to the fact that they are bad quality cells.

When the pack dies i will go for another type of cells for sure.Lipos might be light and powerful but they can get hard to manage without a bms.Especially in big packs like the 24s2p witch has 48 cells.

I think its time to start developing a special CA that will be able to monitor the individual cell voltages on RC lipos.Come on do it :) ill buy buy it for sure :)

I want to try the Turnigy Nanotech 6S 8.0 batteries, but they're not in stock right now in the HK international warehouse or US warehouse. The site won't allow me to purchase from other warehouses. :(

I was thinking about picking up four of the 6S Zippy compact 5800mAh batteries and making a 12S 11.6Ah pack. I'm not too sure about the quality though.
 
skyungjae said:
Alastor said:
The tips Dogman had given me over this year probably saved me from going pyrotechnics.Thanks again man.Think what might have happened if i had not restricted the power there witch is something i do after a log conversation with the man i decided to go easy on the Zippy lipos due to the fact that they are bad quality cells.

When the pack dies i will go for another type of cells for sure.Lipos might be light and powerful but they can get hard to manage without a bms.Especially in big packs like the 24s2p witch has 48 cells.

I think its time to start developing a special CA that will be able to monitor the individual cell voltages on RC lipos.Come on do it :) ill buy buy it for sure :)

I want to try the Turnigy Nanotech 6S 8.0 batteries, but they're not in stock right now in the HK international warehouse or US warehouse. The site won't allow me to purchase from other warehouses. :(

I was thinking about picking up four of the 6S Zippy compact 5800mAh batteries and making a 12S 11.6Ah pack. I'm not too sure about the quality though.

LOL just don't.Zippy's are bad quality lipo's.If you see the inner connection on the 5ah packs you will go mad.Cold soldering on the main leads , bad quality balance wires , smaller size cells , less life.They don't even put rubber on the main leads to avoid short circuit.The battery has only one layer of protection rap that dose not cover the bottom of the cells and they can get damage easier than other brands.

p.s.
Just dont ;)
 
The strangle of the battery box is always an issue on most full suspension bicycle set-ups , ad up the luck of welding skills or the place to do it and you are inside my shoes.You know me i like to experiment with the things i have and i was trying to find a better way to mount my batteries on my kona since it has limited triangle frame storage on the 17" frame.

I think i found an awesome way to use my FalconEV bag (and any other similar bags on the market) in a chaotic formation that is actually working.It all came to me last night while i was sitting with a friend on the sofa....i was looking at my bicycle and i was hmmmm how can i mount the bag in order to be on top of the frame and not inside...I was looking for a 90o angle on the bicycle and i realise that there is one i can use to secure my Falcon bag with its stripes.

I am getting to all this trouble because i want to be able to pedal my ebike efficiently on hills without having the falcon bag messing around with my pedals.I am sure a lot of you have the same issue with a large battery pack.

So this is what i came with.Let me know of what you think of my modification.
 

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